Monday, August 31, 2015

WHERE THE ROAD ENDS THE PARTY BEGINS

Aloha in the Kingdom of Hawaii
The Aloha spirit is pervasive in Hawaii, thankfully. We could all learn from living with Aloha. Smiles are in abundance in Hawaii and a relaxed attitude permeates the very air no matter what the heck is going on. From native to local and (hopefully) tourist alike, the Aloha spirit is everywhere, off-setting the idiosyncrasies of life. No matter what is going on, keeping the Aloha spirit will get you through the day. A volcano is spewing lava and threatening your home and the very island? Acceptance through Aloha and all will be fine. What will be will be many will say. Lava is now covering the road, but sparing your homestead? It must be the provenance of good Aloha in your life!? After the lava decides to go off in another direction your house is now at the end of the road with nothing but miles of black cooled lava flow afterwards? Why this is a great reason to throw a party. 
 
Uncle Robert
PARTY AT THE EDGE OF THE WORLD
There is nothing else south of the Big Island of Hawaii for thousands of miles, except Antarctica, and clinging to the very edge of this island, that is growing daily from the Kilauea Volcano lava flow, is the partially hewed town of Kalapana. When the world’s largest shield volcano started its unpredictable eruption in 1983 it buried much of the town of Kalapana, but spared the homestead of Uncle Robert Keli‘i­ho‘o­malu. Before this current eruption Uncle Robert’s compound was already a place for weekend parties and music for his family and friends, but now the tradition continues for anyone who comes to the edge of the world where the Kalapana-Kapono Road abruptly stops. Whether native, local, or tourist, everyone is accepted at the weekly Wednesday night party at Uncle Robert’s Farmer’s Market and Awa Bar.

UNCLE ROBERT’S FARMER’S MARKET
When we began to research the Big Island as a possible destination last summer, the Wednesday night event that is Uncle Robert’s Farmer’s Market was mentioned several times by possible AirBnB hosts. At first we did not think much of it, but after three or four “mentions” we decided to go to experience this Hawaiian block party.
Uncle Robert’s homestead was spared the lava flow in 1990 and now this farmer’s market was THE destination on a Wednesday night in the Puna District.  More than simply arts and crafts and food, although we ate some of the best seared Tuna in Hawaii while there, Uncle Robert’s Farmer’s Market is a party, with live bands and dancing late into the night.

Your immersion in the Aloha spirit is inescapable at Uncle Robert's and we quickly understood why this party was on the lips of many in the Puna District. In all our travels in Hawaii, going to Uncle Robert's was for me the closest ideal of a Hawaiian experience. Going to a luau was fun for it's history, but this farmer's market/block party was more Hawaiian for its Aloha. At Uncle Robert's you are partying WITH the natives, while at a luau you're watching them perform. 

As word gets out, Uncle Robert's Farmer's Market as a destination grows in popularity. Area resorts have begun to bus patrons in to this weekly fete. It is free to attend except for a small parking fee and whatever you spend on food, crafts and alcohol. It begins in the early afternoon and throbs late into the night. Pull up a bench seat and listen to live music, peruse the stands for food or trinkets, or take a short walk along the cooled black lava to the beach that did not exist 20 years ago. You can bring your own drinks or purchase beer, mixed drinks or Awa at the thatched roof bar. No one cares. Everyone brims with smiles and it is a wonderful night. It is a true Hawaiian experience and should be on the do to list for anyone visiting the area. Mix with locals and natives and your tourist outlook will swiftly melt away. 

Stirred in with the revelry of the night is a little political news about the Kingdom of Hawaii. Those attending who are not familiar with the history of the annexation of this island chain are given a bit of news about the sovereignty movement. A sign near the entrance to the farmer's market proclaims this land as the Kingdom of Hawaii.The information that is shared with the crowd is just a few notes; no one is militant about it; but it is met with applause before the music begins anew. You can follow the Kingdom's agenda here:

Sadly Uncle Robert Keli'iho'omalu passed away earlier this year, but his Aloha spirit lives on. The farmer's market party is every Wednesday. For me, personally, it was a highlight of our trip. We left Hawaii just two days after going to Uncle Robert's making our departure for the mainland much more difficult.