A CONFEDERACY OF
PAUNCHES .jpeg) |
| Confederacy of Paunches |
The rain in New Orleans
the first weekend in October while we were there was incessant. It was either an
annoying drizzle or torrential bands of precipitation that flooded the streets
and lashed at us sideways as we meekly tried to defend ourselves with umbrellas. Occasionally we were teased with brilliant
shards of fierce sunlight that baked us, but this would only last a few minutes
before the clouds began to gather again.
The water table of New
Orleans is already high and the sewers would burble and the gutters flowed like
the Mississippi itself during the waves of rain and as we tried to “swim” from
destination to the next we just gave up trying to circumvent the puddles. You
know how your fingers wrinkle when you’re in the bath too long? That was what
the bottom of my feet looked like after venturing outside on one of our days on
our recent visit to New Orleans, and this was all before Hurricane Isaias
formed in the Gulf.
Despite the inclement
weather, Janet knows New Orleans is one of my favorite cities to visit and had planned
the trip in celebration of my birthday this past August. She also invited a
number of our friends to join us with the intention to eat and drink our way
through the Big Easy.
LAISSEZ LES BONS TEMPS
ROULER (let the good times roll)
The rain may have
dampened our spirits a bit, but we managed to gorge ourselves on food, drink
and music, and our paunches expanded accordingly.
The city too was still
alive with the occasional marching Krewe sashaying through the French Quarter
or a second line brass band leading a “Happy Birthday” parade while wearing
ponchos to go along with their white 8-point brass band caps. Also, the Atlanta
Falcons were playing the New Orleans Saints on Monday Night Football and there
were hordes of “Dirty Birds” prancing along Bourbon Street.
And, we were occasionally
pelted with beads tossed from the iron wrought balconies along Bourbon, even
though the ladies in our party didn’t need to shout out “throw me something
mister” or to “show the girls.”
 |
| another dozen please |
MANGER TROP (eating
too much)
Food was a priority on
this trip and we had planned out our 4-day eating soiree to encompass
everything from Creole at Muriel’s on Jackson Square to Cajun at Mulate’s in
the Warehouse District which also doubles as dance hall with live French Cajun
music, to Italian at Paladar 511 in Marigny to Gulf seafood at Jacques Imo’s in
Uptown.
We also had raw, Rockefeller,
Bienville and chargrilled oysters at Felix’s and Blue Bayou.
BLUE BAYOU
 |
JACQUES IMO'S CORNBREAD |
FELIX'SWe were never ever able
to make it into Acme Oyster House as there were too many Dirty Birds clogging
the line to get into the famed restaurant.
ACME OYSTER HOUSE
 |
| OYSTER DELIVERY |
We had breakfast at
several area eateries near the Monteleone Hotel where we stayed. The portions
everywhere were massive. We ate at Mena’s Palace and Jimmy J’s Café, both
located on Chartres and we made a pilgrimage to Mother’s on Poydras. This
iconic restaurant has been serving breakfast all day, red beans and rice and
everything in between since 1938, and we got there just in time beating the
lines waiting to be served.
And of course, there
were also beignets and strong coffee at Café du Monde.
Time to make the Beignets
MOTHER'S RESTAURANT NEW ORLEANS
Now, in New Orleans
there are so many restaurants and so little time. This is just our small sample
size of our time there, but anywhere you go you’ll have a great meal.
YOU CAN’T JUST EAT  |
| Hand Grenades on Bourbon |
Drinking on Bourbon
Street is a given. You can ask for a plastic cup for your drink or purchase a
hurricane, sazerac or hand grenade or a boring beer and slalom your way dodging
boozy pedestrians and stoic mounted police.
The Carousel Bar
Monteleone Hotel
You’re not going to get
a martini on Bourbon Street nor would you want one, but you can at the Carousel
Bar at the Monteleone Hotel. Designed to look like a merry-go-round, the bar
actually does spin, slowly, taking 15 minutes for one revolution. Seats at the
actual Carousel are a priceless commodity, but the back bar has live music. .jpeg) |
| Martini and Vieux Carre |
They make a great
martini and the Vieux Carré which was invented here in the 1930s. The concoction
starts with brandy and rye whiskey and then vermouth, Bénédictine, and Angostura and
Peychaud’s bitters are added.
The Carousel Bar
Dickie Brennan’s
Bourbon House
On the corner of Iberville and
Bourbon Street. There’s quite a number of bourbons available in this high-ceilinged
airy place. It may take you some time making a selection. Reasonably priced. There’s
a restaurant, but we went there for the Angel’s Envy, and the rain was
drenching us.
BOURBON HOUSE, NOLA
So many bourbons...only one liverLafitte’s Blacksmith
Shop
Bourbon Street
Another notable place
popular with locals and tourists is this place that looks derelict at first. They
claim to be the oldest structure in the United States to be used as a bar,
dating from 1722. Very popular and three deep at the bar on a Saturday night.
You probably wouldn’t order a martini at Lafitte’s, but I’ll bet they make a
great Cosmo. |
| Lafitte's Blacksmith Shop |
LAFITTE'S BLACKSMITH SHOP
FAIS DO-DO
Music not only can be
heard in various places around town, but the streets are literally filled with performers,
all supported by the city of New Orleans. Buskers and mini-Krewe parades or
brass bands are everywhere, weather permitting. We went to a couple of places
to hear jazz, French Cajun music and Dixieland Jazz. And, I must warn you, where there's music and drinking Janet is sure to get involved.
The Spotted Cat
Frenchman Street
In Marigny we took in a
set of traditional jazz musicians performing that night. All along Frenchman
Street jazz, blues and reggae spilled out into the street from the countless clubs
in this lively area of town. Other notables are d.b.a and the Blue Nile.
Ftizel’s
Bourbon Street
We went to Fritzel’s
two consecutive afternoons to listen to some whimsical Dixieland Jazz and didn’t
mind paying the one drink per set minimum, (which didn’t include a tip for the
band).
Bayou Club
Bourbon Street
We danced to French
Cajun Music at the Bayou Club part of Tropical Isle, the inventors of the Hand
Grenade drink, which is next door. Janet and I had ourselves a little fais
do-do or cajun dance party.
We would also dance at
Mulate’s and Janet even joined the band with her washboard and spoons!
TROPICAL ISLE AND BAYOU CLUB
 |
| NOLA POLICE & HAND GRENADES |
What’s in a hand
grenade on Bourbon Street?
The Hand Grenade Recipe
- 1½
oz Gin.
- 1½
oz Grain Alcohol.
- 1½
oz Melon Liquor.
- 1½
oz Vodka.
- 1½
oz Rum.
POPULAR DRINKS OF NEW ORLEANS
 |
| WWII museum New Orleans |
ATTRACTIONS
Believe it or not there's plenty of things to do in New Orleans that doesn't involve food, drink or music. There's history and the Mississippi River!
Steamboat Natchez
A casualty of the weather was a trip on the Steamboat Natchez. We've taken this trip in previous visits, but none of our group wanted to brave the rain. Next time.
STEAMBOAT NATCHEZ
Garden District Walking
Tour
The area that is
currently known as the Garden District was once part of a Livaudais Plantation which was
parceled out to wealthy Americans not wanting to live in the French Quarter starting
in the 1800s. Original development had just a couple of houses on each block, surrounded
by a garden, giving the area it’s moniker.
We braved the torrential
rain which threatened to wash us into the Mississippi to reach the meeting
point for a tour with Two Chicks Walking Tours. The rain held off enough, but soon
after the tour ended the sky erupted.
 |
| John Goodman's home (for sale) |
Our tour guide pointed out several homes of celebrities including John Goodman, Sandra Bullock and Anne Rice the author. The highlight for me was seeing the Manning family home, now under renovation. I can picture Eli getting a wedgie from his tormenting older brothers Peyton and Cooper on the front lawn.
 |
In front of the Manning family home |
TWO CHICKS WALKING TOURS
St. Charles Streetcar
 |
| St Charles Streetcar |
It was our intention to
take the oldest continuously operating streetcar in the world to our next
destination. As we waited for the St. Charles (aka the Number 12) Streetcar we
got soaked. We purchased 1 day passes at the near by Walgreen’s on Royal for
all of .80 cents each, and despite the rain the ride was enjoyable and the wooden
benches didn’t seem so unforgiving.
Of course it would have
been better on a sunny day and for the price it's a great way to see New Orleans
The St. Charles
streetcar goes from Carrolton to Canal. We got off at Oak Street to eat at Jacques-Imo’s.
The Canal streetcar can
take you to the cemeteries. We opted to avoid that excursion because of the
rain.
TRANSIT MAP ST CHARLES STREETCAR
The National World War
II Museum
945 Magazine Street,
New Orleans, LA 70130
Our friends expressed
an interest in this incredible museum. It was not on my original radar, but truthfully we were very grateful to visit this remarkable museum. We
could have spent several more hours than the 2 ½ we allotted ourselves to learn
the history of this conflagration.
We walked there when
the weather was so-so and got drenched on the way back. Ugh.
THE NATIONAL WORLD WAR II MUSEUM
 |
Ignatius C. Reilly statue on Canal |
JOHN KENNEDY TOOLE
For those of you who
don’t “get” the tagline of this article it is a pun on the title of the Pulitzer
prize winning novel A CONFEDERACY OF DUNCES, by John Kennedy Toole. His sad
story was he committed suicide when he couldn’t get the novel published, but years
later his mother found the manuscript and pushed to place it with a publisher.
Pictured here is the statue
of Ignatius C. Reilly, the main character of the novel in front of what was
once a department store, and where the novel begins.
Dunces and paunches
Beignets and Vieux Carré
Music and bourbon
Let it rain I don’t
care
More oysters please and
etouffee?
Throw in some grits and
I will stay
"Who Dat?", They chant at
the Superdome
If I had my choice I’d
never go home
Thanks for reading…and
hand me that towel please.
Thank you Janet, for planning
this wonderful trip.
Love Janet and greg
© 2026 by Gregory Dunaj