TRAVELING TO PANAMA

UH-OH?

I’m not going to lie to you, but growing up in the 80’s Panama was not on any destination itinerary for this humble scribe. With the scandal of the Iran-Contra Affair and Manuel Noreiga’s drug trafficking enterprise out of Panama filling the nightly news, it was an easy bet that I would steer clear of the Central American country.

That was in the 80’s and Noreiga has been out of the picture long before his death in 2017, but admittedly there is some residual dread about traveling there.

In February we are traveling to Bocas del Toro for a hopefully relaxing stay in this popular tourist destination.

To think the narcotics problem has gone away completely would be ludicrous and there are areas of Panama you should not venture into. According to the U.S. State Department places like the Darien Gap, the dense inhospitable jungle 60+ miles long that separates Panama from Colombia and where there are no roads or no law enforcement, and the very rural Mosquito Coast on the Caribbean side of Panama should be avoided.

WTF?

You’re probably saying why would anyone want to travel to Panama then. Yes, it can be edgy, but the show of law enforcement in other places is prevalent.

Panama law

We sailed from Costa Rica to Panama several years ago, and we were reminded that there are strict rules.

When we crossed into Panamanian waters at night aboard the Variety Cruises MS Panorama we were boarded by customs agents. They looked at everyone’s passport and scrutinized the ship’s manifest.

Embera-Wounaan

When we landed on Iguana Island, a small island with white sandy beaches, our tender was challenged by a military crew wearing balaclavas and toting machine guns. The crew of the Panorama is Greek, and no one spoke Spanish, and our Costa Rican cruise director was still on the ship. Until the whole thing was settled, we were told to sit in the shade and not wander away. We wiled away the time watching countless hermit crabs prancing about the beach as iguanas ogled us curiously.

When we visited a village of the Embera-Wounaan one of the indigenous tribes living in the Darien Gap, we were watched by a couple of military soldiers who followed our group from a discreet distance.

IN STEP WE TRUST

Truthfully, the police presence was comforting. Another way to help waylay any misgivings, other than exercising commonsense in certain situations, is to register your travel itinerary with the US State Department. Each time we leave the country we register with their STEP program. It’s free and you will get alerts to any issues going on in your destination and where NOT to go. The Smart Traveler Enrollment Program, don’t leave home without registering!

STEP with the US Department of State

 

WORRYWARTS?   

Perhaps, but, being smart in your traveling is smart. Not wading into situations, thinking you’re impervious, is smart.

One can spend their entire life not seeing this big beautiful world and be safe. Travel does take some people out of their comfort zone, but travel for us extends our comfort levels.  And, without traveling how could we ever experience the beauty of this world. In our earlier trip to Panama we swam with whale sharks and turtles and dodged hermit crabs and we are looking forward to returning.

Thanks for reading.

Love Janet and greg

© 2026 by Gregory Dunaj