Monday, November 28, 2022

FINAL DAYS IN FIJI

ONE LAST SUNSET
one last sunset

The choice was easy. It was either get off the Fiji Princess that morning after sailing through the beautiful Mamanuca and Yasawa Islands of Fiji and then get on a plane later that evening, or linger in paradise for a few more precious days of serenity.
After all the plane ride is forever; at least 16 hours in the air, with an interminable layover in Los Angeles; and still, it’s the same day when we land in Philadelphia because of the International Date Line. Then for the final leg of our return, we would have to fight traffic on the Blue Route! All vestiges (good vibrations) of our glorious trip would dissipate quickly.
We decided to delay the inevitable and opted to linger for a few days at the Aquarius at the Beach hotel in Wailoaloa. Located on the Wailoaloa Bay north of Port Denarau and just twenty minutes by cab to the airport, the Aquarius was small, neat and served the purpose of easing our transition from the warm weather, white sandy beaches and crystalline waters of Fiji to the cold reality of home.
Aquarius
The reviews were good as a great stopover before flying out from Nadi and over the three full days that we stayed there we saw a lot of people coming and going.
We splurged on the best room, the Ocean View Double! On the second floor with balcony overlooking the ocean the room cost FJD$221.56 per night, which is about $100.00 USD. We got complimentary breakfast and had all our meals at a table near the pool. Their beach bar was a repurposed boat, and we caught a few brilliant sunsets sipping tropical drinks and Fiji Bitter beer. 
LOCATION LOCATION LOCATION
Despite all its functionality though neither the Aquarius or Wailoaloa Bay were charming.
After two weeks of swimming in some lovely pristine water throughout the islands the bay was not inviting. There were no waves and because the sand, though very fine, was darker it made the water seem murkier. We never went for a swim. The beach itself wasn’t clean and really needed to be groomed, especially considering the amount of new construction going on in the immediate area.
Wailoaloa Bay

The Aquarius was adequate and the staff was lovely and attentive, but the hotel was crammed between similar boutique resorts and with all the construction the serenity was in short supply!
Still, the Aquarius was convenient as it was near to the airport, and rather than linger at the hotel, we made the best of our time there and took a couple of day trips in the area. 
NADI
The town was a short cab ride away and though there are several tours that will take you to nearby tourist points, we instead opted for some souvenir shopping, and shopping in the main part of this town is a tumult of activity. Bula (Aloha) shirts and sarongs are offered everywhere. Also, Fijian artifacts and art were offered in shop after shop, but the increasingly pushy clerks vying for your FJD got to be overwhelming.
We escaped with just a sarong, Fiji Sevens rugby kits for the grandsons; the Sevens had just recently won the world championship in South Africa; and some art of flowers and turtles.
Janet loves to shop

There were very few white people walking the streets of Nadi (pronounced Nan-di) and at times we were a curiosity with people coming up to us and asking us where we were from or simply offering us a hearty ‘Bula’ and a wide smile as we passed them on the sidewalk. There was a small park that had several artisan sheds where we purchased our art and a trio of teenagers smiled at us from their shady spot beneath a banyan tree and wanted only to say hello. They never stood, they only seemed very pleased that we had traveled all the way from the east coast of the United States to walk the streets of their little town. They smiled and said Bula and we continued our stroll knowing coming to Fiji was so different and so non-threatening than a similar situation would be back at home.
Sri Siva Subramaniya Temple 
A quick bit of history of Fiji. In the 1800’s the British brought over lots of indentured servants from India to work the sugar cane fields, and today Indio Fijians make up a third of the population of Fiji and representative of this influx of different people there were churches and mosques and Hindi temples.
On our way to the coral coast two weeks previously we passed the Sri Siva Subramaniya Temple, the largest Hindu temple in the south Pacific.
Looking ominous because of its unfamiliarity the massive, colorful temple is just a short walk from the shopping in Nadi.
We paid our FJD$5.00 entrance fee, donned sarongs provided by the temple staff, removed our shoes and walked briskly through the grounds. We did not take a promised tour and we did not linger for long at this temple dedicated to the deity, Murugan, the god of nature. Despite the colorful deities on the outside and the statue of Murugan inside, we felt out of place. We nodded appropriately though as we watched devotees present gifts and then got out of there rather quickly.
Murugan

Photos are not allowed inside the temple. 

GARDEN OF THE SLEEPING GIANT
For our second day of exploring the Nadi area we chose serenity and nature over adventure. We could have gone to a ziplining course or taken a “dip” at the Tifajek Mud Pool and Hot Spring. I’m not one for ziplines and a mud bath just didn’t seem that appealing, although there were plenty of day trips offering either or both options.
the sleeping giant
Instead, the orchid garden that is nestled beneath the Sambeto Range in the foothills of Nausori Highlands was a much better choice. The garden is just a 20-minute cab ride from the Aquarius and the outcropping along the ridge on the approach really does look like a sleeping giant, who as legend has it ate too many local Fijians and has fallen into a deep slumber. Serene did I say? Uh-oh!
The garden was first begun by the television actor Raymond Burr (Perry Mason and Ironsides) in 1977 to house his own orchids, and now features nearly 2000 different varieties of tropical orchids spread over 20 hectares. There are plenty of paths to explore and ponds to ponder, but the orchids are the stunningly beautiful main attraction and worth the trip. The entry fee cost FJD$24.00 each, cash only.
We had arranged for the cab to the garden with our driver to Nadi the day before. The price was FJD$80.00 and he waited for us as we meandered through the grounds and lingered over the refreshing juice the garden staff provides after the visit. We arranged for him to drive us to the airport the next evening. 
Everything was easy and calm, the way a trip to paradise should end.
Last quick notes:
Despite the great distance, Fiji was a comfortable trip. The people are friendly and gracious and seemed genuinely happy that we were visiting their country. When tourism drives an economy there can be a jaded approach to visitors, but we never felt like we were singled out for the dollar value. From the hotel staff to cab drivers to people on the street and even construction workers there was always a smile and a hello. Tipping, though appreciated, is never expected and usually tips to staff were put in a communal "Christmas fund" box. 
Most of the cars on the road were hybrids, like Prius from Toyota. Cabs were cheap.  
Although vast portions of Viti Levu were rural there was an infrastructure that never seemed out of place. Fiji once may have been called the Cannibal Islands, but there were restaurants and dive shops and resorts everywhere. The roads were well maintained. Store shelves were stocked. There were wine shops and liquor stores.
Fiji Bitter and Fiji Gold and Vonu were the main beers.  We were told by our river guide that Fiji Bitter is a man's beer, although he preferred the Gold. We also found a craft microbrewery called Reef and was able to purchase a small jug to sip while lingering on the patio at the Aquarius watching the sun set on this beautiful place. 
Thanks for reading
Love Janet and greg
© 2022 by Gregory Dunaj
Bula Vinaka / The Good Life