Thursday, April 18, 2024

VIETNAM HOTELS AND OTHER ACCOMMODATIONS

FNG TRAVELS
HOTEL ACCOMMODATIONS
 IN VIETNAM
“FNG” for “F*king New Guy” was a derogatory term used to describe new recruits rotating in with an established combat unit during the Vietnam War. FNGs were shunned because they were raw and to a unit of bloodied battle-tested veterans FNGs were a liability. Not knowing what to do or even how to use their equipment in the jungle warfare of Vietnam led to higher attrition rates for new recruits and the old-timers counting the days to go home just didn’t want to risk their lives.

Conscription legislation limited a draftee’s tour of duty to two years. After a boot camp lasting 4-6 months, plus a month of travel to Vietnam, plus a month of accrued leave that a soldier earns for every year in the service, there was little more than a year for a draftee’s tour of duty. Rather than pulling whole units out they would rotate in the ‘FNGs’.

Right about now dear reader you’re probably saying: “WTF is Greg talking about FNGs? 


TOUR OF DUTY
Well, we will be FNGs on this upcoming trip to Vietnam and Cambodia. Although we have been through plenty of “boot camps” having traveled quite extensively over the years, we are not at all familiar with the culture of either country and the language and negotiating our way from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh to Siem Reap, Cambodia would be very difficult if not impossible on our own. So, in a first for us we are taking a tour! Usually we just wing it, get to our destination, and enjoy the sights. The image we have of “tours” is of a moving constantly crowded melee that pauses somewhere before churning onward. That’s why we settled on Overseas Adventures Tours because this company specializes in small group tours. Limiting the tour to 16 individuals (we have 14 travelers in our particular group) we are assured that your favorite FNGs will not only survive their tour of duty but enjoy it as well.  The pacing is different with our “Inside Vietnam” tour with O.A.T., and we will stay at 7 locations over 18 days, with an overnight stay on a traditional Vietnamese wooden boat on the picturesque Halong Bay.

BROTHER CAN YOU SPARE A DONG?

The trip is not cheap, but at 294,599,983 VDN or Dong, nearly everything on the trip is included. International and domestic airfares, transfers, gratuities, meals are included as well as some very unexpectedly beautiful 4-star hotels.

According to the World Bank, since 1986 when Vietnam began their economic reform called Doi Moi (literally “restoration”), meant to push the country towards a “socialist-oriented market economy”, Vietnam has transformed from one of the world’s poorest countries to a middle-class economy. I’m sure there is still a dichotomy between rich and poor, but our hotels are shockingly gorgeous. So, whatever a “socialist-oriented market economy” is, it did save the country from the brink of economic collapse.

NOT THE ‘HANOI HILTON’ / A QUICK LOOK AT OUR ITINERARY 
MAY DE VILLE HOTEL
HANOI

Our first stop in Vietnam is Hanoi, where we will spend the first 6 days exploring the capital. We will stay at the May de Ville Luxury Hotel...and not the infamous Hao Lo Prison. Hao Lo means Hellfire, but the prison was dubbed the Hanoi Hilton by the American POWs held there during the war.
The prison itself was torn down, but one can visit the memorial to the original French Colonial prison, called the "Maison Centrale" with a room dedicated to the American War POWs.

HA LONG BAY CRUISE

After Hanoi we will travel by bus to the beautiful Ha Long Bay to take an overnight cruise on a traditional Vietnamese Junk. Ha Long is part of the Bay of Tonkin and is an UNESCO world heritage site with over 1,000 limestone islands and islets rising from turquoise waters.
Ha Long Bay

Ha Long Bay
HUE
We will take a domestic flight to Hue. The Tet Offensive was centered around this city. For two days we’ll get to explore Hue and visit an orphanage. Our hotel is the Cherish Hotel a few blocks from the Perfume River. No…the evening’s entertainment will not be a viewing of Kubrick’s Full Metal Jacket.
Cherish Hotel, Hue

CHERISH HOTEL, HUE 



HOI AN

The Hoi An Central Boutique will be our home for the next couple of days in this coastal city and while there we take a boat cruise to the Thien Mu Pagoda, take a street food experience tour, stroll the UNESCO heritage ancient town which dates from the 13th Century and walk over the Japanese Bridge and visit My Khe Beach, better known as China Beach from the television show of the same name.

Japanese Bridge, Hoi An


China Beach
HOI AN CENTRAL HOTEL

NHA TRANG

Another domestic flight will take us to this resort city known for its white sandy beaches. Nha Trang is evidently very popular with vacationing Russians. 
Nha Trang
The Em Oi Boutique Hotel will be our home here, and perhaps the ultimate highlight of our trip to Vietnam will be a visit to a local family who makes bamboo chopsticks. 

EM OI HOTEL 

Dalat coffee


DALAT
To get to this city, nestled in the central highlands we need to take a three-hour bus ride and pass the region’s rice paddies. Nicknamed the “City of Eternal Spring,” Dalat has cooler temperatures and was once a summer getaway for the French. Most importantly though Dalat produces some of the best coffee in Vietnam, grown on the slopes of Langbiang Mountain and is an integral part of the culture in Dalat and served in all the cafes. We won’t have time to visit K’ho Coffee, but we will enjoy dinner with a local family. The centrally located Du Parc Hotel will be our hotel in Dalat.

KHO COFFEE DALAT 

DU PARC HOTEL DALAT 

HO CHI MINH CITY

One more domestic flight takes us to the final stop on the tour, Ho Chi Minh City, formerly Saigon. We are staying at the Central Palace Hotel, about a kilometer from the American consulate. We go on a city-wide tour after we land and then we’ve got the rest of the day to ourselves.

O.A.T. suggests we discover the city by scooter. Driven by a student we’ll zip along the streets to see the city like a local. 

Er, NFW for this FNG.
War Remnants Museum

Another suggestion is to visit the War Remnants Museum. Formerly known as the Museum of Chinese and American War Crimes, it was shortened to its present title in 1995 when diplomatic relations were normalized with the United States and a U.S. embargo of Vietnam was lifted. Some of the exhibits include American military equipment from that era, as well as a guillotine. The War Remnants Museum is one of the most popular museums in Vietnam.

The next day is spent on a sampan along the Mekong Delta and later we visit a coconut candy workshop!

Central Palace Hotel

Then it’s back to the sobering reality of war with a visit to the Cu Chi tunnels. Part of an extensive network of tunnels used by the Viet Cong for transportation of weapons and personnel and protection from aerial bombing. Not far from Saigon the tunnels featured living accommodations, kitchens, and medical facilities.

Because of our small group size, we’re evidently able to see parts of the tunnel system not normally accessible to American tourists.

Ci Chu Tunnels

CENTRAL PALACE HOTEL, SAIGON



HOLIDAY IN CAMBODIA

Overseas Adventure Tours offer “pre” and “post” trips to their “Inside Vietnam” adventure. We opted for a post-trip 5-day visit to Cambodia to visit Angkor Wat and the Legacy of the ancient Khmer Empire. Traveling to Cambodia will not be for the faint of heart. The genocide by the Khmer Rouge took millions of souls by some calculations and our hotel is less than 2 kilometers from the Killing Fields Genocide Museum at Siem Reap, now a resort town and the gateway to the UNESCO world heritage complex of Angkor Wat.
Cambodia flag

Angkor Wat is a massive Buddhist religious structure that was first erected as a Hindu Temple dedicated to Vishnu in the 12th Century. It is considered the largest religious structure in the world. Angkor Wat is on the Cambodian flag.

We fly to Siem Reap, and we are staying at the Tara Angkor Hotel. We will visit the Killing Fields and Angkor Wat on different days and on our last day cruise Tonie Sap Lake and visit a floating village.

KILLING FIELDS MEMORIAL

TARA ANGKOR HOTEL, CAMBODIA 

ANGKOR WAT
I cannot stress enough that without the guidance of O.A.T. we FNGs would not experience half of what this part of the world has to offer, so we welcome this departure from our usual way of traveling.

It’s worth your dong.

Thanks for reading and check back on our progress as we travel to Vietnam and Cambodia.

Love, Janet and greg

© 2024 by Gregory Dunaj

Sunday, April 14, 2024

SEEING THE TOTAL SOLAR ECLIPSE ON APRIL 8, 2024

SYZYGY - GOING THE EXTRA MILE
Do look up!

Syzygy (siz-er-jee) is an astronomical term for an alignment of planets. When the sun, the moon and the earth align properly there is a total solar eclipse.

You would think this would happen every month, but because of the elliptical orbit of the Earth a total solar eclipse is rare. Rarer still was how relatively close the recent path of “totality” was to us, which crossed upstate New York on April 8. 

Early on we decided to travel to Lake Placid to see this celestial event. 

The closer one travels to the zone of “totality” the darker the sky gets with no sun peaking around the edges like one observes an annular eclipse when the moon isn’t quite in the right position to blot out the sun. The time of the total eclipse will vary depending how far you are from the center of the zone. Those further away from the “zone” saw a partial eclipse on April 8, while we were rewarded for our travels to the famous Olympic town with a total eclipse lasting over 3 minutes.

"TOTALLY" INTO IT
1932 arena with curlers!
Although we didn’t have to travel all the way to Lake Placid; the totality zone wasn’t that narrow; the town was very accommodating to visitors. The town’s website offered advice as to where to park and where to watch the eclipse, and even suggested where to eat, but our friends in the Saratoga area knew where to go. We stayed with them for the weekend and drove up to Lake Placid for the day.

We made it a day trip to Lake Placid, about 100 miles from their house. We had no choice. Because of this rare alignment and total eclipse a lot of people flocked to the town and there were no hotel rooms available. It is a good thing we went the extra mile too, for it turned out that the skies back in Saratoga were cloudy. In Lake Placid we basked in brilliant afternoon sunshine. 

DO YOU BELIEVE IN MIRACLES?

final score 1980
Even without the celestial display, Lake Placid is a great place to visit. Skiing is popular in the area, including nearby Whiteface Mountain.  This little town has hosted two winter Olympics. 

In 1932 the podium for the presentation of gold, silver and bronze medals was first used and later that same year Los Angeles celebrated the summer Olympics. Curling, my personal favorite, was a demonstration sport.

Held during the cold war USA defeated the veteran USSR team 4-3 in men's ice hockey and went on to win the Gold Medal vs. Finland. USSR had won Gold in the 4 previous Olympiads, and as their semi-final game against the Soviets counted down, the commentator, Al Michaels, uttered the memorable line: “Do you believe in miracles?”

Clustered in a very small area are the arenas of both Olympiads and were open to the public for free. Only the on-site Olympic Museum had an entrance fee. Even without the total eclipse Lake Placid is worth a visit.

Olympic facilities Lk Placid

The speed skating oval where Eric Heiden took the Gold in five speed skating events in 1980, the only winter Olympian to accomplish this, is literally next door to the Olympic arenas. The rink was open to the public for the eclipse and this is where we went for the main event.  

We left early to avoid traffic and had enough time to tour the Olympic facilities, stroll through town and get a snack before the eclipse. We heard that traffic got very bad as the day progressed. 

Mirror Lake is the smaller of the two lakes in Lake Placid, but it is right in town. All around Mirror Lake people had staked their spot to witness the eclipse. A lot of people had traveled to the area, but it never felt crowded. 

THE MAIN EVENT 

Nothing will prepare you for a total solar eclipse. You have to see it for yourself!

 As the moon slowly covered the sun we watched its progress through our eclipse glasses, which were given out in several rest stops on the NY Thruway and at Lake Placid businesses. 
our friend's pic

We had met up with friends in the famed speed skating rink, the snow slowly melting in the warm sunshine forming puddles. Slowly the moon crept into the path of the sun and a hushed reverence settled on the crowd here to witness this cosmic occurrence, but when the moon finally covered the sun fully and a shadow descended across the land as the brilliant afternoon sun disappeared exposing stars and planets the crowd erupted in tumultuous cheering. Suddenly it got cold, and for what seemed like an eternity, there was a black orb in the sky, with an array of light edging from the edges of the moon! Nothing will prepare you for this sight.  If you get a chance….go!
 
I tried taking pictures of the eclipse through my glasses, with limited success. One of our friends successfully captured the eclipse. Here is her picture.
eclipse in a puddle

I did take an interesting picture of the total eclipse reflected in the puddle:

If you're interested in seeing the next total eclipse it's in 2026 over Iceland. This will help you plan for the next eclipse.






PUB CRAWL
Our friends have traveled to Lake Placid several times and they led us around town for food and drink before the eclipse and afterwards. Here are the places we visited.

The Cottage at Mirror Lake Inn

A youth curling practice was going on at the 1932 arena and it was hard to pry me away, but we strolled along Main Street and made our way to The Cottage, with tables overlooking Mirror Lake. We stopped in for snacks and some great beer from the area. Cozy, with Olympic posters plastered over the walls and ceiling. The Cottage is part of the Mirror Lake Inn across the street. Later we would return for drinks at the very posh Inn before returning home that evening.

Lake Placid Pub and Brewery

On the way back from the Cottage we walked along Mirror Lake and passed a lot of people already settled in their places for the eclipse. We did not pass the Lake Placid Pub though. We all bellied up to the bar and had some very good beer. 
I had a Foeder Belgian Quad that had me yodeling in tongues for a while.

The Great Adirondack Brewing Company

We stopped for a quick bite after the eclipse. Overpriced, with beers that were not that good, we chalked it up to tourism. I would not recommend going.

We delayed leaving Lake Placid until 8:30 pm, thinking that was enough time for traffic to dissipate. Boy, were we wrong. Normally a two-hour trek took us over three hours. Along the way we stopped at a rest stop and there were several carloads of people settling in for a night in their cars. 

Thanks for reading.

Love Janet and greg
© 2024 by Gregory Dunaj



the eclipse as seen by the James Webb telescope