Saturday, June 29, 2024

WHAT WE DID WITH OUR DONG IN HANOI

TOP ATTRACTIONS IN THE CAPITAL
Hanoi proved to be a great first stop in Vietnam. Prior to traveling there, at least for this hack, Vietnam still evoked ominous memories of the war, but now, after  traveling from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City, I feel her people are simply trying to get on with their lives, making ends meet and catering to a growing tourism industry. History is still a part of Hanoi though, and several attractions reference the struggle, but there is so much more to Hanoi. Thankfully many are free or are very cheap.

We arrived in Hanoi in time for their Reunification Day, April 30th, the anniversary of the final fall of Saigon in 1975, but apart from appropriately festive displays of the Vietnamese flag hanging everywhere, from lampposts and buildings and stores, people were enjoying a 5-day holiday. There were no thunderous Communist rallies trumpeting their glorious win nearly 50 years ago.


A FISTFUL OF DONG 
Everything is cheap in Vietnam. Currently one Dong will cost you $00.000039 USD. That translates to a Bia Hoi or draft beer costing about 10,000 VND or less than $.50. Bia Hoi is a draft beer made daily and served by any number of street vendors or restaurants in the Old Quarter along or near Ta Hien Street, aka Beer Street. Other popular beers in Hanoi are 333, Tiger, Hanoi Bia and Saigon, but be prepared to spend 40,000 VND in a restaurant for them. Do the math, it’s still cheap. Your Dong or VND will go a long way in Vietnam. The difficulty is keeping track of the zeros on the paper money.  

WHO WANTS TO BE A MILLIONAIRE?

Speaking of zeros, in Vietnam there’s a lot of them. Standard amounts offered for withdrawals at an ATM are around 1 to 2 MILLION VND. The bills come out in 500,000 notes, which equals to less than $20 USD.
So, there’s not really a worry about spending a lot of money, is there? Our 5-star hotel in the French Quarter, the appropriately named May De Ville Trendy Hotel, was clean and comfortable with a free, expansive breakfast and cost less than $75.00 per night. While there we also got massages that together cost us 450,000 VND. That rubbed me the right way.
Still, there’s plenty to do and see for free. Here’s a quick listing of what we experienced in Hanoi.

HOAN KIEM LAKE

Hoan Kiem Lake
Perhaps the most popular activity for locals and tourists alike is Hoan Kiem Lake, a quiet place in the middle of a busy Hanoi city. Edged by both the historical French and Old Quarters, the lake offers a peaceful escape. On weekends the surrounding streets are closed off to vehicular traffic and people enjoy the quiet. Families and tourists flock here and in the early morning before the weather heats up, it is a popular place for runners. In fact, the whole area is filled with people exercising, or doing line dancing, or ballroom dancing or something called laughing yoga. One morning, around 6 a.m., your hearty and hale travelers ventured out and immersed and sweated with the locals who gleefully embraced our appearance.

You don’t have to exercise, but a visit to the lake is worth a visit. There is a tree lined walking path and plenty of cafes. It is a chance to experience Hanoi culture for free.

At the north end of Hoan Kiem Lake there is the Ngoc Son Buddhist Temple situated on an island. There is a nominal fee to cross over the red Huc Bridge (The Morning Sunlight Bridge) to visit the temple. Women need to have their shoulders covered and wraps are provided for no charge.

On a small island at the southern end of the lake is the Turtle Tower, a small pagoda. According to legend the holy Hoan Kiem turtle gave Le Loi, a Vietnamese rebel leader, a magical sword that gave him the power to gather his troops to fight against the Ming dynasty and defeat them. After his success he returned the sword to the Hoan Kiem turtle. There is a statue of Le Loi across the street from the lake.


Old Quarter and French Quarter
Exploring the chaotic Old Quarter or the comparatively sedate French Quarter costs nothing, except for the street food and beers you buy along the way. The Old Quarter consists of 36 streets north of Hoan Kiem Lake. Several of these streets specialize in certain crafts, as in Ta Hien Street, where there are plenty of restaurants and beer and food vendors. Some of the savory dishes waiting for you to try are spring rolls, Pho, a traditional Vietnamese soup, or Banh Mi, a Vietnamese sandwich in a baguette.

Other crafts found in the Old Quarter include Hang Bac Street, specializing in gold and silver jewelry, and Hang Bong Street, where quilts and blankets are sold.

The streets of the French Quarter in Hanoi are wider, with plenty of 5-star hotels, like ours, the May De Ville Trendy Hotel, expensive restaurants and coffee shops. Many buildings in the quarter are from the French Colonial period and many are painted a butter-yellow, or more precisely an Imperial yellow. Meant to symbolize royalty and superiority reflecting the power of France throughout Indochina.

Presidential Palace Hanoi

Several buildings of note that are painted in this regal yellow are the Hanoi Opera House, the Presidential Palace and fittingly the notorious Ha Lao Prison that was built in the 1896. Now called the Maison Centrale and a tourist attraction brimming with propaganda the prison was dubbed the Hanoi Hilton by the American POWs who were held there.

The late Senator John McCain was shot down while on a mission in 1967 and was a POW at the Hilton until 1973. There is a memorial to McCain on a somewhat busy road that skirts West Lake where he was shot down. Our tour bus stopped so we could pay our respects. JOHN McCAIN MEMORIAL HANOI

The costs of the other venues mentioned earlier are much cheaper. The Presidential Palace is on the grounds of the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum, both of which have a separate entry cost for foreigners (approximately 40,000 VND). Ticket costs for the Opera vary depending on the show and the Maison Centrale is 30,000 VND.

NOT EVERYTHING IS FREE 

It’s sad to say that you will need to loosen your grip on your Dong at some point in your visit to Hanoi. Here are a couple of things we did that did cost us some of our hard-earned Dong:

The Women’s Museum, 36 Ly Thuong Kiet – cost: 30,000 VND
Houses a collection of artifacts, traditional clothing, tools and crafts focusing on the woman’s role in Vietnamese society. Especially riveting was the display about women combatants during the “American War”.

Rose Kitchen cooking class ROSE KITCHEN HANOI - cost $45.00 USD pp

We took this delightful class our first full day in Hanoi. A van picks you up at the hotel and gathers other participants before stopping at a local market to help buy the ingredients. The cooking instructor/chef gave us VND and told us what to ask for in Vietnamese thereby throwing us right into the culture. At the kitchen we learned how to make banana flower salad, spring rolls and Pho. It was a wonderful way to start our trip.

Water Puppet Theater – 57B Pr. Dinh Tien Hoang – cost: $5.00 USD

This traditional artform was started over 1,000 years ago in the Red River Delta and depicts different aspects of Vietnamese village life. The whimsical scenes depicted include fishing, unicorns, and a kid riding his water buffalo. The Thang Long Water Puppet Theater is not far from Hoan Kiem Lake, but as part of our tour group we attended a show at the puppeteer’s home in a small theater and got to see his craftsmanship in creating the puppets up close.

Railroad Street

You don’t need to book a tour to see this oddly perverse tourist attraction. One can simply show up to the tracks that pass within inches of area establishments and watch massive trains fill the narrow route, but we chose to go with an add-on tour with our Tour company, Overseas Adventure Travel. For $70.00 pp we rode around Hanoi on Soviet-era refurbished motorcycles that were driven by students hired for this excursion. We drove through both quarters, passed Uncle Ho’s resting place, caromed along dirt roads in the forests on the outskirts of Hanoi and barreled crazily through dark alleyways before stopping at a café on Railroad Street.
Railroad Street Hanoi

After the reunification of the country Vietnam decided to reunite both halves by building a railroad connecting the two. The tracks go right through neighborhoods and the trains pass within inches of patrons willing to sit right at the edge. We had heard of Railroad Street before we arrived in Vietnam, and it was a number one priority for us. Going on the tour made it easier. All we had to was place a drink order…and not stretch out our legs when the train approached.

Dinner was included with this tour package.

The train is not just a gimmick and one can ride the rails from Hanoi south. Here’s the website to book your passage.

TRAIN TICKETS VIETNAM

Hanoi was a pleasant surprise. My listing is just a very small list of activities available. Here’s a list of attractions in the city:

HANOI ATTRACTIONS 

Thanks for reading,

Love Janet and greg






© 2024 by Gregory Dunaj

Sunday, June 2, 2024

THE PEOPLE OF VIETNAM

A WAY OF LIFE
Perhaps the oceans of time that separates them from the “American War” has faded their memory. The median population of Vietnam is roughly 33 years old, born after the war; too young to know better? Perhaps it is the thread of Buddhism that is Vietnam’s prevalent religion that gives them a serenity of living in the present and forgiving the past and not pining for an indeterminate future? Or perhaps it really is just this American, yours truly, oversimplifying a complicated past?

We here at VFH Central came away from our recent trip to Vietnam with a greater appreciation of her people. Whatever trepidations we had flying in were dispelled by the end of our trip. Thinking there would be corners of hatred or disillusionment with America with having abandoned the war in 1973, were not apparent. It is difficult to hate for that long.


Instead, everywhere we went we were greeted with smiling faces and a devout appreciation of our presence. Afterall, the Vietnam War was a fight for reunification of North and South Vietnam, a country bifurcated by history with the colonialist French and the threat of Communism. By just visiting Vietnam meant we accepted them as a people and not as a historical footnote.

Well, since Doi Moi (renovation) was rolled out in 1986 as a means of boosting a withered economy struggling with wars and the vagaries of Communism, Vietnam has adopted a market-based economy, and the country has excelled. One might even say, Communism doesn’t work, but whatever.

Personally, I have heard that Americans focus too much on the war and not the growth of her people and the beauty of the country. The people we met throughout our Vietnamese travels were just trying to make ends meet, many with smiling faces and showing an interest in us and honored that we were visiting their country. With some, the past is there, you can feel the slight edge in remembrances, but we genuinely ran into a lot more people who were happy.


We met a Hanoi business man in the elevator of our Saigon hotel who beamed at us surprised we had traveled all the way from the United States. Two little girls approached us while we strolled through a market, and wanted to practice the English they were learning in school. In that market, with stalls brimming with fruits, vegetables and meats, like beef as well as snakes and fish and dogs, the owners smiled back at us even when we just gawked at their wares. 

We stopped at a “Heroes Cemetery” for those who fought in the many wars and the caretaker there nearly jumped out of his shoes when I handed him a $2.00 US bill, which is considered extremely lucky in Vietnam. 

There was no hint of anger or regret when we visited with a stately matron of a splendid home in Bat Trang, a city known for ceramics. Her business of kilns and such led to wealth, but much was taken from her by the Communists in the notorious Land Reform program of 1954-56. We then met with a “worker” who was “gifted” a kiln and forged a pottery business that might not have been possible in the old way of doing things in Vietnam.

Everywhere we went there was a lot of this yin and yang going on that may seem troublesome to this American but by trip's end accepted as a way of life in Vietnam.

I was humbled.

Thanks for reading,

Love Janet and greg

© 2024 by Gregory Dunaj