Thursday, April 3, 2025

EARTHQUAKE IN THAILAND

IS IT SAFE? 
Aerial view of collapsed Bangkok building
courtesy: Bangkok Post 

The news out of Thailand is horrific. The 7.7 magnitude earthquake that hit central Myanmar has killed over 3,000 people in that country. Relief efforts have been hampered by the ongoing civil war.
In Bangkok a building under construction collapsed killing 29 workers with 77 still missing.

We were just in Thailand, and I was beginning to write about Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai that was part of our “Discover Thailand” excursion with Overseas Adventure Travels company (OAT), when the earthquake struck.

Sadly, whatever I write about our experiences in Thailand now needs to be tempered with the realization that what Janet and I have seen may have been damaged in the earthquake.

Two good sources of information about the current situation can be found at The Nation Thailand an English news website for breaking Thai news and the Bangkok Post. Today the Post is reporting that in Thailand there are 34 badly damaged buildings.

THE NATION THAILAND

BANGKOK POST

BOXING DAY TSUNAMI

Southeast Asia is considered one of the world's most geologically "active" areas in the world. On Boxing Day, December 26, 2004, an earthquake even more powerful than last week’s, struck off the island of Sumatra triggering a tsunami that killed 230,000 people. 
damage from the Mae Lao quake

On August 3, 2014, the Mae Lao earthquake struck, the epicenter a few miles away from Chiang Rai and near the airport there. Chiang Rai was another destination on our Thailand road trip. Just one person was killed in that quake, though the Mae Lao earthquake caused USD $61.8 million in damages.

Fingers crossed things are okay at least in Thailand. We contacted our trip leader for our Discover Thailand excursion via WhatsApp and he was already on another tour in Sukhothai, though his wife was still in Bangkok. Details about further damage in Thailand, other than what occurred in Bangkok are sketchy. The U.S. State Department as of March 31st has said the aftershocks (which are typical) have only affected Myanmar, but not Thailand.

If you are considering travel to Thailand, or any foreign destinations follow the U.S. State Department on Facebook or Twitter for updates on fluid situations or enroll in their Smart Traveler Emergency Program or STEP program. This free service allows U.S. citizens to enroll their trip abroad so the Department of State can accurately and quickly contact them in case of emergency.

US STATE DEPARTMENT STEP PROGRAM 

If you care to donate, the Red Cross and Red Crescent are providing aid as well as Bangkok Community Help. They are accepting money and second hand items not just for Bangkok, but for Myanmar as well.  

BANGKOK COMMUNITY HELP

Safe Travels

Here is a National Geographic special about the Boxing Day Tsunami:


Love Janet and greg

© 2025 by Gregory Dunaj


Saturday, March 29, 2025

PRAY FOR THAILAND

AND MYANMAR TOO
Having just returned from Thailand a little more than a week ago, the horrific news about the 7.7 earthquake whose epicenter was in Myanmar, but toppled buildings in Bangkok, is especially troubling. The death toll is approximately 1,000, but expected to rise in Myanmar, a country already in the throes of a civil war.

In Bangkok a building under construction near the Chatuchak Day Market, which we were at on our last day in the capital, collapsed and at least 6 people are missing and presumed dead.

We contacted Sek, our OAT Trip Leader through WhatsApp and he is safe and already back in Sukhothai on his next tour, though his family is still in Bangkok, reportedly safe. Sek is originally from Chiang Rai and says his family there was unaffected by the quake, although the quake and aftershocks were felt in most of Thailand’s provinces.

Chatuchak 
Day Market 
According to Thai officials, there was some damage to residential buildings, hospitals and temples in the north in Chiang Mai. I am currently writing about our visit to this walled city, once the capital of the Lanna Kingdom. The only human casualties in Thailand have been at the Bangkok construction site.

Chatuchak 
Day Market

 Not sure if this is the same building that collapsed in Bangkok that's in the background.







THE WORLD RESPONDS

Humanitarian aid from China, Russia, South Korea, Malaysia, India and the United Nations have either sent rescuers and supplies or have provided money to help in the efforts. The United States has said the will help in the efforts as well.

This is still an extremely fluid situation, if I learn anything more, I will pass it on here.

Everywhere we have traveled a bit of that destination adds to our soul and it makes our hearts ache when disasters like this happen, especially so close to our leaving.

Pray for Thailand and Myanmar.

Flag of Myanmar

Love Janet and greg

© 2025 by Gregory Dunaj

 

Tuesday, March 25, 2025

SUKHOTHAI AND STUDENTS

THE DAWN OF HAPPINESS  
The Dawn
of Happiness
We stopped in Sukhothai for two nights to specifically visit the Sukhothai Historical Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and to visit the Baan Pho Tanod village school as part of OAT’s Grand Circle Foundation.

รุ่งอรุณแห่งความสุข

Between the 13th and 15th centuries Sukhothai was the capital of the first Kingdom of Siam under King Ramkhamhaeng, considered the founding father of the Thai nation. The King is also credited with inventing the Thai script (using curving seed pods for accents). It’s called the Sukhothai script, and it is still being used today.

Here Theravada Buddhism flourished under the king and many monasteries were commissioned. Theravadan Buddhism is the predominate Buddhist way in Thailand, Laos and Myanmar and means “the way of the elders” and has been practiced for millennia.

Sukhothai Historical
Park

Subsequent rulers to Ramkhamhaeng had more temples built. Fittingly Sukhothai translates to “Dawn of Happiness.”

The kingdom of Sukhothai was strategically located for trade with China and Japan and had much to offer. The fertile lands yielded abundant crops, but the land was also rich with gold and gemstones, and skilled artisans would create Sanghkalok ware ceramics for export.

There are still ceramic factories in Sukhothai. They are mostly family operations who have passed down the business for generations. OAT didn’t take us to a kiln, but here's more about the ceramics if you’re so inclined to visit.

CERAMICS IN SUKHOTHAI 

The Sukhothai Historical Park is the main tourist draw for the town and on the grounds are several Buddhist temples with several different representations of Buddha. 


We stayed at a boutique hotel around the corner from the entrance. The rooms of Le Charme Sukhothai overlooked lush grounds and ponds with Lilly pads and little bridges and flowers everywhere.

LE CHARME SUKHOTHAI 

We went to the historical park twice, once during the day to walk around the well-maintained Buddhist temples. Then later that evening we were fortunate to see the same temples colorfully lit. The festive light show was held every weekend in February through to March 2. 

Sukhothai Historical Park at night

Sukhothai Historical Park at night

Sukhothai Historical Park at night
SUKHOTHAI HISTORICAL PARK AT NIGHT

SUKHOTHAI HISTORICAL PARK AERIAL VIEW 

GRAND CIRCLE FOUNDATION / มูลนิธิแกรนด์เซอร์เคิล

The beauty of traveling with Overseas Adventure Travels is that they have us interact with the communities that we visit. We’re not just going to gawk at the people who live there. OAT supports these communities through donations and at times much needed repairs. In the case of the Baan Pho Tanod village school OAT had come in, before our visit, and repaired the leaking roof of the school’s commissary. Early in our trip to Thailand we were asked if we would like to donate $20 pp to purchase a ping pong table for the school, which we readily complied. 
Our guides at
Baan Pho Tanod

Paying it forward / จ่ายมันไปข้างหน้า

The gift was unveiled when we toured the school the second day in Sukhothai.  

We were greeted by two young girls and a boy who served as translators, although the boy had more fun kicking stones and bouncing around.

We first visited the kindergarten class where the children delighted in affixing heart stickers on our clothes and arms. I got one stuck to my forehead.

We then visited the preschoolers. School uniforms were not worn by these younger children, but they pranced around and begged us to lift them, shrieking happily with every ride. 


One boy who started crying when he bumped his head quieted when I put one of heart stickers on his arm. Paying it forward.

We then made our way to the pavilion where the ping pong table was unboxed and set up. Everyone got a chance to play a couple of rounds.

It was a wonderful stop.



THE BEGINNING OF ONE’S JOURNEY TO NIRVANA / ทางไหนที่จะไปสู่พระนิพพาน
Before we visited the school, we went pre-dawn to Wat Traphang Thong to give alms to the monks. The temple is on a man-made island in the middle of a reservoir, the banks were decorated with colorful lanterns.
 Wat Traphang Thong

We crossed the wooden causeway to listen to the praying monks inside the temple before returning to the bridge to sit and await the monks. There were very explicit instructions on how to sit (without pointing our feet at the monks) and when we stood to be sure our heads were bowed as the monks neared our congregation. 

The bridge was also lit by yellow lanterns, and I felt humble in the cool pre-dawn morning.

waiting on the monks

วัดตระพังทอง

After their morning prayers these Theravadan monks embarked on their daily piṇḍacāra or almsround, where they walk through town with their alms bowl covered by their outer robe to make themselves available to worshipers who wish to contribute food. It is forbidden in Theravada to accept money.

Almsround is important to Theravada, as it shows humility and dependence on the community while rejecting material wealth. As a layperson giving alms is a way of showing respect to the monks. It’s not considered charity but as a way of beginning one’s own journey to Nirvana.


OAT provided each of us a pre-packaged food kit to present to the monks. There were perhaps 8 or 9 monks who shuffled slowly over the wooden causeway and when one of our number motioned silently to a monk, he would open his outer robe, and we would place the kit of fruits in the bowl and give a Wai, making sure our fingertips reached our foreheads as a sign of ultimate respect. The monk then would hand the kit to a layperson who would place the goods in a larger basket and continue along.

monk worthy meal kits

Later that morning we were given 20 Baht notes and a shopping list by our trip leader, Sek, to purchase ingredients for the lunch that would be prepared for us after our school visit. Outside of the market there was a monk with his alms bowl. We would see monks on piṇḍacāra several more times during our tour of Thailand.

Nirvana, here I come!

คุณได้เรียนรู้อะไรไหม

Thanks for reading.

Monk on Almsround at Sukhothai market


Love Janet and greg

© 2025 by Gregory Dunaj

Friday, March 21, 2025

PTT STATIONS IN THAILAND

A GREAT PLACE TO STOP WHEN YOU NEED TO GO
We recently went on a “Discover Thailand” excursion with Overseas Adventure Travels (OAT). Over 15 days we traveled from Bangkok to Chiang Rai and towns in between like Kanchanaburi and Nakron Sawan and Sukhothai, were endearing stopovers. We saw much of Thailand, but we were on the road a lot.

The direct route from Bangkok to Chiang Rai is about 500 miles, but we also took a lot of side trips. So doing a quick estimate using google maps and putting in all our destinations, I figured we drove just under 1,000 miles.  

What does this mean?

Lots of pee breaks.

YOU CAN GET THERE FROM HERE

Though we were on the road a lot, OAT thankfully broke up the days with plenty of stops at the seemingly ubiquitous PTT stations located throughout Thailand.

PTT is the largest gasoline franchise in the country, with over 2,100 stations, but pee stops at a PTT are so much more. They were a joy to stop at and not just because the bathrooms were sparkling. Every PTT was like a miniature mall with shops and restaurants, some brand names like Pizza Hut and some local, and they varied from station to station. There were also little kiosks selling street food. All of it was at a very reasonable cost.
Cafe Amazon at a PTT station

There were two constants at every PTT. There was always a 7-Eleven convenience store (there are over 4,000 of the franchises throughout Thailand. And, there was always a chance to get great inexpensive coffee at an Amazon Coffee Shop. Amazon Coffee is owned by PTT.

Now even though at each stop our trip leader, Sek, would give us 10 minutes for the stop we would invariably linger over coffee or Sek would get excited about the morsels prepared at different kiosks. He would engage with the owners, relate their personal stories to us and then get us to help make whatever it was they were making, like rice ball confections. Everything was a learning experience for us and always the proprietors were pleasant and pleased that we stopped by.

Making something we ate 

To stop at a PTT station in Thailand can even be described as pleasant. Some had whimsical decorative statues and sometimes there were also small, well-attended parks with koi ponds and bridges. There was even a small motel on the premises of one station. It’s not a bad place to stop when you need to go. 

And, have I mentioned the bathrooms are sparkling?



OH, THE PLACES YOU’LL GO

Now just to be clear OAT didn’t just have us stop at PTT convenience centers to get from here to there. Here’s a quick list of things we stopped for between stopping for PTT stations on our way to our next destination. Because, you know it’s not just the destination but the journey itself.

The Floating Market of Damnoen Saduak:

overlooking the 
floating market
Touted as a must-see experience when visiting Bangkok, Thailand, just under 60 miles away from the city. The vendors display their fruits and vegetables while sitting in long boats. It’s a bit touristy, with visitors crowded on similar boats to take a rush hour cha-cha on the water, but our trip leader delighted in educating us to the various foods available. We bought some palm sugar for home, but sampled everything from jack fruit to apple bananas, to pomelo. Pomelo is native to southeast Asia and is like a grapefruit, but not as tart.

The market was mid-way between Bangkok and Kanchanaburi, where the “Bridge Over the River Kwai” is located and where we stopped for lunch.


Harvesting Water Chestnuts at Wang Yang District in Suphan Buri:

We visited a farm that grows water chestnuts and were invited to help. Donning waders and long gloves I was tasked to dig up the mud with my toes and toss clumps of it into a pile so others could separate the chestnuts.
OOPS

I fell in the mud, as did another of our group. I’m tall, my center of gravity was a lot higher than the short Thai woman who was showing me what to do, so that’s my story and I’m sticking to it.

They hosed us down, fed us lunch and even washed our clothes.




Visiting a Lotus Farm in Sawankhalok:

The age-old question is who is smarter; the guy with a PhD or someone who learns how to do things from YouTube? We had a very informative stop at the Pirachat Lotus Farm in Sawanholok. 
The owner was running a parking lot in Bangkok and decided to go for the country life, sort of like Green Acres and started this Lotus farm. The Lotus flower is revered in Buddhism and his cottage industry is lucrative and he learned how to tend to these water flowers from YouTube videos.

Turns out the stems are tasty.

The Lotus Farm


An overnight stop Nakhon Sawan:

OAT had added this overnight stop in Nakhon Sawan when driving straight through to Chiang Mai, the next destination in our “Discover Thailand” trip proved to be too arduous. The name translates to “Heavenly City”, but there are no tourist attractions in Nakhon Sawan. Yet, the city was a great stop because after we checked into our hotel for the night, we were driven over to Sawan Park.
 
There, we joined countless Thais running and exercising and enjoying the cooler night air. Janet and several others in our group danced to music (something we had experienced in Hanoi last year) and we watched guys playing Sepak Takraw, kick volleyball, and got beaten badly by a kid we challenged to a game of bocci ball.


Visited a Buddha sculptor in Phitsanulok:

To visit the “factory” in Phitsanulok is free. We got a quick introduction to the process of creating molds and casting Buddha statues, and saw various statues in the workshop in varying degrees of completion.

Turns out representations of Buddha can take many forms and you can tell where the statue was made by certain features. In the area of Phitsanulok Buddha is depicted with a flaming halo. We were able to buy a small version of Buddha for our “Buddha table” at home.


 

Chatted with a monk at Wat Suan Dok:
Before departing Chiang Mai, a lively town that brimmed with lots of western tourists, we stopped at Wat Suan Dok, a Buddhist temple. We walked the grounds, but before we left OAT had arranged for us a “Monk chat”. 
Monk chat

The monk, who wore sunglasses indoors and called everyone “dear” as he lectured us about Buddhism, wrote out informative snippets about this peaceful way of life on a whiteboard. He then opened it up to questions and Janet elbowed me hard in the ribs when I tried to ask about the sunglasses. 
Wat Suan Dok

All kidding aside it was yet another great OAT stop.

Visited the Kayan tribe and the Long Neck Village:

The Kayan people are a hill tribe that has have fled persecution in Myanmar (Burma) and are not Thai citizens. As refugees they are poor and rely on tourism. They are called Long Neck because the women wear rings around their neck to give an elongated appearance and it is this “fashion statement” that brings the tourism dollars they need.

Before we boarded trucks to take us to the Elephant EcoValley ‘zoo’, where we got to interact with and bathe elephants, we stopped at one of the Long Neck villages, although we really only explored a row of kiosks along a 200-yard stretch of a rough road. We never got to visit the “village” per se. 

It was a bit unnerving for me, it was like visiting a human zoo. The Kayan (or Karen) women posed for pictures before their wares with no real expectations of sales, their beautiful faces stoic their eyes looking through us. The kiosks housed various home-made and mass-produced trinkets and cloth weavings.

Some of the women steadied toddlers on their knee, some invited our group to pose for pictures wearing similar detachable neck rings.

We felt compelled to purchase something to dispel the notion that these people were being exploited. It is a popular tourist draw though and after reading about their plight we thought it was a good stop. As refugees, their freedoms are restricted, and employment, especially for the women, is prohibited. Every Baht is appreciated and a return to Myanmar for them is out of the question.

Here is an informative video about why one should visit the Kayan.

 


 


Visited the Thai Silk Village in Chiang Mai:

We got an introduction to sericulture, the process of cultivating and procuring silk from silkworms at the Thai Silk Village. They demonstrated the process that has been going on for thousands of years. Got up close and personal to some of the critters and watched some of the artisans getting silk thread from the cocoons and others weaving it. It was then onto the store where I had to purchase a silk Aloha shirt….of course.

THAI SILK VILLAGE CHIANG MAI 

This is just a handful of places we stopped on our adventure through Thailand with Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT).

Thanks for reading.

Love Janet and greg

© 2025 by Gregory Dunaj

Tuesday, March 11, 2025

SOMBER TIMES IN THAILAND

HELLFIRE PASS 
The bridge over the River Kwai

We knew Thailand’s role in the Second World War would come up during our travels here and so we did some research by watching the film, The Bridge on the River Kwai. Starring Sir Alec Guinness and William Holden, the David Lean film won several Oscars and was about the British helping build an integral link on the Siam-Burma Railway during WWII.

The film was slammed by those who lived through the ordeal as not coming close to the appalling working conditions and extremely cruel treatment by the Japanese. Australian, British, Dutch and some American POWs and more than 200,000 indentured local civilians worked and died building what was dubbed the Death Railway. 

bridge over the River Kwai

It is estimated that 20 men died each day, succumbing to malnutrition and disease, exhaustion, no medical treatment and ferocious beatings by the Japanese guards. Though the film won several Oscars and was a good start in learning something about this part of history, it failed to prepare us for the extreme sadness we experienced on our next stop on our recent tour of Thailand.




DEATH RAILWAY
Kanchanaburi War Cemetery
The railway is still active as a tourist transport from Bangkok to Kanchanaburi, where the bridge over the River Kwai was built. There were two bridges erected at this now idyllic town lined with cafes and restaurants. 

The first bridge was wooden and could carry light diesel rail trucks to transport construction materials while a reinforced concrete bridge was built 100 meters away. That bridge used repurposed metal sections the Japanese took from Java.  
Both bridges were bombed mercilessly by the Allies, and despite the cost of human lives the Death Rail, that was meant to serve as a land route to move supplies as the U.S. choked off sea lanes, only carried two Japanese divisions and just 500,000 tons of supplies before VJ day ended the war in Asia.
Kanchanaburi War Cemetery

Because of the popularity of the film though the bridges became a major tourist attraction, and a tourist train will cross the river and travel to Nam Tok Sai Yok Noi where it ends. Nearby is the Sai Yok Noi park and waterfall where families come to escape busy Bangkok and to enjoy nature. In this park there is a replica of the metal bridge that is a pedestrian path and a small market catering to visitors.

The metal bridge itself is a popular tourist destination and pedestrians can walk on it over the river, even when the train slowly makes its way across.

AT WHAT COST?

Hellfire pass Interpretive Ctr

It is estimated that 16,000 Allied POWs and over 90,000 civilians forced into labor by the Japanese died in building the railway. Many were buried near where they fell. After the war the bodies of Australian, English and Dutch POWs were reinterred in several cemeteries. 

On our way to the bridge where we had lunch at a restaurant overlooking the infamous span, we first stopped to pay our respects at the Kanchanaburi War Cemetery. There are approximately 5,000 soldiers from the Commonwealth and 1,850 Dutch casualties commemorated at Kanchanaburi. There are two other military cemeteries honoring those who perished building the Death Rail. Chungkai is in Thailand and Thanbyuzayat is in Myanmar (Burma).



HELLFIRE PASS
Hellfire Pass

After the war much of the railway was abandoned and even ripped up and the jungle took over the remnants, but in the 80’s veterans returned to the area to look for the sites that caused them so much duress in their youth. They eventually found the cutting called the Hellfire Pass. 
It was 75 meters long and 25 meters deep through solid rock. Working 18 hours a day through the night with torches lighting their work with just rudimentary tools, the scene of the Allied and indentured servants looked like a scene straight out of hell. It took six weeks to complete and workers died from exhaustion and disease, accidents and beatings by the Japanese.

One veteran, Tom Morris, who helped clear the Hellfire Pass from underbrush, approached the Australian government so as to preserve this infamous site. Eventually the Hellfire Pass Interpretive Center and Memorial Walking Trail was created. 

Hellfire Pass

It was dedicated on ANZAC Day, April 25, 1998 and the center and memorial walk are sobering reminders of the horrors the men went through. As part of our visit, we listened to an audio tour and walked the cutting where mementos of heroes past lined the steep walls.

To read more about the Hellfire Pass go here: HELLFIRE PASS

GLAMPING AMID THE HORROR

Because of the tragic history of the area, it was almost embarrassing to enjoy luxury “glamping” at the Hintok River Camp @ Hellfire Pass. We stayed in spacious air-conditioned tents with private baths and a front porch. There was a coffee shop on the grounds, a natural spring fed pool, and a floating patio with sunbeds to hang by the river to enjoy the views. We had buffet-style dinners in the open air and there was a full bar and staff waiting for our drink orders.
Hintok River Camp 

We stayed at the Hintok River Camp for two days, traveling there after Kanchanaburi and using it as a base for an excursion to the Interpretive Center and Memorial Walk and then a longboat ride down the Kwai passing water buffalos and other even more luxurious bungalows floating on the river to have lunch at a restaurant in Nam Tok where a flaming dish of morning glory, Thai water spinach, was as entertaining to watch being prepared as it was delicious to eat.

This has been quite the trip.

Thanks for reading.

Love Janet and greg

our tent at Hintok River Camp

River Kwai at Hintok River Camp

Hintok River Camp


Hellfire Pass







© 2025 by Gregory Dunaj