IKARIA, GREECE

 SO, YOU WANT TO LIVE FOREVER?

ICARUS

There are places in this world that just seem right. On Ikaria, the first island we visited on our Variety Cruises’ “Unexplored Greece” island-hopping adventure, we slipped easily into an easy way of approaching the day.

Perhaps it was because the island was our first stop of our 8-day cruise aboard the Panorama and everything seemed fresh and new? Perhaps it was because we alighted on Ikaria in the “shoulder season” and not at the height of tourist revelry in the months of July and August and the plateia tables of the port town of Agios Kirykos although filled that first night held a certain calmness to them? One would imagine a Saturday night would be livelier, but on Ikaria an easier unrushed approach to life is the norm. Afterall, Ikaria is an island where people forget to die.

AGIOS KIRYKOS

BLUE ZONE

Ikaria is a “Blue Zone”, one of just 6 in the world. This moniker is given to places where people live exceptionally long lives, often exceeding the centenarian mark. The longevity evidently stems from a combination of physical activity, strong social interactions within the community with low stress levels and maintaining a primarily plant-based diet. Whatever the reason the pace of Ikaria is slow, meals take a long time, people linger over conversations and drinks deep into the night. Sunsets are appreciated. 

Why hurry? The island ranks up there as the Bluest of Blue Zones.

To read more about this phenomena: IKARIA AND BLUE ZONES

RADON LOVE

Another reason …maybe… for increased longevity are the number of spas on the island that people soak in for the therapeutic effects of the radioactive waters.

COMMUNAL SPA IKARIA

 

Don't be too alarmed, but Ikaria has the highest concentrations of radon found in Greece and all of Europe and studies have shown that long-time beneficial rehabilitative effects can be achieved from the “therapeutic waters”.

You don’t believe me:

GOOD FOR WHAT AILS YOU

Our excursion on the island was to visit the spa town of Therma where we swam in the communal hot springs, although we were told to limit our time to just 20 minutes. Because there is a gentle ocean flow here the concentration of radon is less than other spas and there will be warm and cold spots.

When our noisy group arrived, there were several locals also enjoying the waters.

It’s rocky and the steps into the pool are steep. Make sure you wear water shoes.  

ICARUS 

MEZZE 

After our dip and with no one claiming hair loss our cruise director from Variety Cruises walked us over to the Icarus café, one of several hedging the beach for drinks and meze. Meze is the snack one often gets served when ordering drinks, like a Greek tapas.

Janet and I had ouzo, having grown fond of this aperitif while in Athens and we shared a craft beer brewed on Ikaria!

Ikariotissa Beer offers a porter, ale, unfiltered ale and a lager. We used the ale to help wash down the last of our meze.

Above the café’s doorway hung a painting of the establishment and the island’s namesake, Icarus.

In Greek mythology Dedalus and his son escaped King Minos and his labyrinth on Crete by fashioning wings of feathers and wax and flying away. Sadly, Icarus in his youthful exuberance few too close to the sun and the wax melted and he plummeted to this island. 

Great story, great beer, great island.

IKARIOTISSA BEER

The sad part of a sailing adventure is there never is enough time to fully explore a place. Our visit could have lasted days. You get a taste or an image before having to move on, never fully understanding where you just left, but it anything is to be taken from Ikaria it is to enjoy yourself, and forget to die.

Thanks for reading.

Love Janet and greg

© 2026 by Gregory Dunaj

THREE DAYS IN ATHENS

ANTIQUITES AND SPINACH PIE 

We started our trip to Greece by spending a few days in the ancient capital of Athens, which, because we were going to be sailing on an 8-day trip through some small islands in the Cyclades and Dodecanese, was more than enough time. Although, plenty of travel sources say 3-4 days in Athens is enough time to see all the major sights, like the Acropolis and Parthenon, etc., and we made the best of our time while there.

Here is what we did in Athens:

HOTEL HERODIAN

Janet always seems to find the best places and the centrally located Hotel Herodian was yet another hit for the Captain of Vacations From Home.

FROM THE BAR

Our neat, clean hotel was optimally located a block from the Acropolis. We even had a spectacular view of this ancient magnificent promontory from the roof top bar / restaurant at the Herodian, and our martinis there were especially enjoyable.

There are also two hot tubs on the floor beneath the restaurant which offered the same shocking view of the edifice and the Parthenon, that temple erected to the goddess Athena, shown brightly like a beacon from the gods themselves. It was lovely. 

HOT TUB VIEW

The staff at the Herodian were pleasant and helpful, giving dinner suggestions away from the hotel, and arranged for our private transfer later to our ship in the port of Piraeus.

Our driver said this area was one of the safest in Athens, despite its proximity to everything!

HERODIAN HOTEL ATHENS 

HOP ON BUS

Because of our early arrival our room wasn’t quite ready, but the hotel stored our bags and we explored our immediate area for a few hours.

It was hot, so we opted to pay fare for a Hop-On/Hop off double decker bus. You can find the business in several cities around the world. Don’t knock this very touristy ride for It is a convenient way to see a city. Though we never get off the bus and only tootle around, at 20 euros each we were able to kill much of our time while seeing where certain interesting sites are located, like the Parliament building where there is the hourly changing of the guard at the tomb of the unknown soldier, Hadrian’s gate, the Olympic stadium, etc.

You’re provided ear pieces and can listen to a guide describe the various places.

HOP ON HOP OFF BUS 

ACROPOLIS / PARTHENON TOUR

ACROPOLIS DETAIL

Because the Herodian was so centrally located, it was a leisurely walk the next morning to our rendezvous point for our small group tour of the Acropolis and Parthenon. It was a very busy area, just on the outskirts of the Plaka, another very touristed area, and just across the street from Hadrian’s Arch. The notes said for us to meet our guide at an outdoor ice cream shop, who was seated on one of the chairs.

You don’t need to purchase a tour to walk the grounds of the Acropolis, although you need to purchase a ticket for an allotted time entry. Our guide though was knowledgeable and gave us historical tidbits about various locations like how the Roman style of architecture differed from the Greeks because of the use of arches. She also wove stories from mythology into pointing out various things, which included the naming of Athens after Athena, who had struggled with Poseidon over the naming rights of the city while we were seated in the shade of an olive tree. The olive branch is symbolic of peace and wisdom and triumph and it was the very token Athena gave as a peace offering.

ROMAN ARCHES

The Acropolis and the Parthenon is a must, must visit for anyone traveling to Athens. Though this was my second time to Athens this was my first visit to the Acropolis, because there was a labor strike going on and it was closed at the time..

 

Our tour also included entry into the Acropolis Museum where our guide walked us through the displays and artifacts and statues, including the surviving five Caryatids statues that once served as columns for the porch of the Erechtheion temple and were famously removed and cleansed, saving them from the air pollution of Athens. The 6^th Caryatid was spirited off to the British Museum along with many panels from the Parthenon.

The CARYATIDS with one missing

There are several choices for tours. We went with Athens Walking Tours. They focus on keeping their tour groups small. Janet booked them through Tripadvisor. Here is their direct email address:

ancient

ATHENS WALKING TOURS 

Having learned our lesson from ordering too much food the night before (read the earlier entry on this subject) we shared one (1) Greek salad and an entrée between us at Taverna Skoumpri, a short walk from our hotel. It was ample food.

Taverna Skoumpri Athens

 

Ariston Bakery, Athens

FOOD TOUR

About halfway through our walking food tour of Athens, having forgotten the whole “too much food” edict we imposed on ourselves, our guide cautioned us that we signed up for this! 

Normally we try to take a cooking class, but Janet found a world-wide company that offers food tours, and this would have been a great idea, but we still hadn’t fully recovered from our pig-out soirees from two nights previously. The guide from Culinary Backstreets dragged us to six different places in the city center and Plaka to sample everything!

KOSTARELOS

We started with several versions of very healthy unstrained yogurts at the company store of Kostarelos, the final container drizzled with honey.

KOSTARELOS, ATHENS

ARISTON BAKERY

At Ariston bakery, which has been in operation since 1910 we had cheese pastries and various sweet confections. 

ARISTON BAKERY, ATHENS

PNYKA SYNTAGMA

Pnyka Syntagma is a bakery where we ate spinach and mushroom and cheese pies and a street-food staple, koulouri, a sesame encrusted bread that looked like an oversized bagel.

Pnyka interior

Pnyka exterior

KOSTAS

Already stuffed we somehow managed to eat some of the greatest souvlaki we had ever had at Kostas. You must get to this hole-in-the-wall shop early because once they sell out of the grilled pork or chicken that they prepared for their souvlaki they close up the shop and the line can stretch out down the street. No where else in Greece came close to Kostas souvlaki. While we ate our souvlaki various people, mostly tourists, came in to purchase their own and to snap pictures of this number one souvlaki restaurant.

no lines at Kostas.... yet

KOSTAS SOUVLAKI ATHENS

GLYKYS

We thought we had a respite from the eating when we took outdoor seats at the leafy quiet café Glykys, just a block away from the main “street’ of the Plaka where all the touristy shops are located. But, after ordering our Greek coffee, telling the waiter how much sugar we wanted, our guide presented us with some confections purchased earlier at Ariston.

We were then given a primer on how to read your coffee grinds in order to foretell the future. I was told mine had an eagle, but to me it looked like a bad haircut.

The next morning we returned to Glykys to have a final coffee in Athen before we left for the port of Piraeus and our boat.

GLYKYS CAFE ATHENS

Eagle or a bad haircut?

GLYKYS CAFE, ATHENS

SAITA TAVERNA  

Saita in the Plaka was busy with street musicians and tourists milling about and though we technically were not hungry, we sat at outdoor table and several plates of food served family style came out. 

Lamb, potatoes, several types of vegetables including a plate of a seasonal green called Horta, which kind of tasted like spinach were served.

MALOTIRA  

We finally ended the food tour when we trudged down the Plaka, with the Acropolis over our left shoulder to Malotira, a Greek boutique deli where we sampled several olive oils from around the country. We washed down these essential oils with a glass of Tsipouro and nibbled on a concoction of creamy goat and sheep cheese that was dusted with oregano from Crete and then drizzled with honey. Tsipouro and the anise infused ouzo are the national drinks of Greece.

MALOTIRA, ATHENS 

Contact Culinary Backstreets if you dare, but don't say we didn't warn you! All kidding aside it was a great way to gain weight!

CULINARY BACKSTREETS

WALKING IT OFF... 

Needless to say, we did not eat dinner that evening, but we did walk to the Parliament building where we caught the hourly changing of the honor guard protecting the tomb of the unknown soldier. This is free, but you must obey the commander’s directions and stay behind a white marble strip.

PARLIAMENT BUILDING ATHENS

The meeting point for our food tour was in the plaza across the street from the Parliament building and that morning we opted to take a quick ride on the metro, but in the evening we needed to walk and it was about 20 minutes from our hotel.

Changing of the guard at the tomb of the
unknown soldier, Athens

It was a busy time in Athens.

 

Subway stop Acropolis

Thanks for reading.

Love Janet and greg dunaj

© 2026 by Gregory Dunaj

EATING IN GREECE

SHARING IS CARING

Greek salad for TWO

On our first night out in Greece we made the mistake of attempting to eat like normal people, you know, we would each get a salad, an appetizer or two and an entree. We weren't THAT hungry so we skipped an entree, but ordered two Greek salads and three appetizers. 

And, that was a mistake, because it was too much food.

Sadly, the waiter didn't warn us. He just kept jotting down our order and shrugged.

Portions in Greece are meant to be shared, family style as are the Greek salads. They come with a spoon to ladle out the ingredients, something we overlooked the first dinner. 

We were looking forward to eating Greek salads too. The salad contains tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, green bell peppers, olives, capers, drizzled in olive oil and of course it is all topped by a hunk of feta cheese. Accompanied by a basket of bread, it can be a meal all by itself, and by the end of our visit to this beautiful country it was just that on at least two occasions. 

That first night though we over ate to the point of nausea!! The salad in the picture that starts this article was for TWO and the feta cheese hunks were massive. Then the three appetizers came, meat pies, meatballs and grilled sausage, and it was simply too much and we struggled to make a dent in our order.  

LEARNING OUR LESSON

The next night we went to another taverna and we resolved to order one Greek salad and one entree. We had a grilled salmon steak to share. It was more than enough food and the waiter just jotted down our order and from then on we shared everything.

grilled salmon

ONOS TAVERNA ATHENS 

Thanks for reading and think before you order.

Love, Janet and greg

(c) 2026 by Gregory Dunaj

"UNEXPLORED" ISLANDS OF GREECE

WHERE ARE WE GOING?

Like a modern-day Odysseus, we will soon be meandering through the islands of Greece though we won’t be “lost” and hopefully the only mythical creatures we’ll encounter will offer us drinks as we lounge on the deck of the M/V Panorama while we sail beneath blue azure skies.

Going over the Variety Cruises “Unexplored Greece” itinerary for our 8-day adventure is fascinating and here is a quick look at what awaits us in June.

Athens

We’ll spend two days in the city, staying at the Herodian Hotel, a short walk from the Acropolis. We take a group tour of the Acropolis the next day and a walking food tour on the second day, before heading to Piraeus where the ship is docked.

HERODION HOTEL, ATHENS

Day 1

CAPE SOUNION (TEMPLE OF POSEIDON) 

Temple of Poseidon

To the ancient Greeks Poseidon was the protector of all seafarers. His temple at Cape Sounion had a clear view of all the sailing lanes to and from Piraeus and off the coast we linger for a welcome dinner with the Panorama crew before sailing overnight to Ikaria.

 

Day 2

IKARIA

The ship will sail overnight to reach Ikaria and our first swim stop at Seychelles Beach. Mythology has it this is where Icarus fell to his death on Ikaria after flying too close to the sun when the wings his father Daedalus fashioned to escape King Minos on Crete melted. In real life Ikaria is considered a Blue Zone where people here live as much as ten years longer than anywhere else in Greece, the island’s unhurried pace a contributing factor.

After our swim we’ll take an optional tour of the island’s thermal springs. We stay overnight in the port before sailing to the next island in the morning. 

Seychelles Beach, Ikaria

Perhaps, before we leave Ikaria we’ll have a chance to sample an Ikariotissa microbrewery lager or porter, or, a wine from Afianes.  

AFIANES WINES, IKARIA

IKARIA GUIDE

IKARIOTISAA BEER, IKARIA 

Day 3

PATMOS

A visit to the Cave of the Apocalypse is included with our Variety Cruises package.

St. John, one of the 12 disciples was exiled to Patmos by the Romans and he wrote the Book of Revelations here. The cave and the Monastery of St. John the Divine are considered very sacred Christian sites and in 1999 UNESCO declared them World Heritage Sites.

Patmos

Sadly, we won't have time to quell our fears over the ends of days while on Patmos because it's only a three hour stop before we sail for Lipsi.

 

LIPSI

There is a type of grape grown on Lipsi called Fokiana. The €42 pp charge for the excursion to visit the Nico Grylli Winery to sample their wines seems well worth the expense, especially because it includes Meze, Greece's version of tapas.

One wine they produce is a sweet red wine called Aposperiti. We'll get to have more Aposperiti back on the Panorama. 

We are overnight at Lipsi and if we like the wine enough we can stroll through the main town to sample more! 

Lipsi

NICO GRYLLI WINERY LIPSI

LIPSI GUIDE 

Day 4

KALYMNOS

Lipsi and Kalymnos are part of the Dodecanese, the eastern most Greek islands and we'll be closer to Turkey than mainland Greece.

After Kos and Rhodes, which is about 2 1/2 hours away by sea, Kalymnos is the third most populated island and is famous for the divers who harvest sea sponges.

On our optional excursion we will tour the town of Pothia and learn about the sponge industry, from harvesting to market and we will have plenty of time to explore the island, or simply relax over a coffee!

Kalymnos sponges at the market

KALYMNOS

Day 5

LEVITHA

Just a single family lives on this island and they run a restaurant that caters to visiting yachts.

Variety recommends we have a lunch of freshly grilled fish there before sailing on to Amorgos.

YACHT ADVICE 

AMORGOS

We get a tour of the port town of Katapola on Amorgos and we are then served a "Baked Raki" at a local coffee shop. 

Raki is a Turkish spirit, similar to Ouzo, but the baked version is native to Amorgos as the raki is mixed with sugar and spices.

We are overnight on Amorgos and who's to say we won't drain their Baked Raki supply?

 

AMORGOS

AMORGOS GUIDE

Day 6 

KOUFONISIA 

Before we sail away from Amorgos, there is an optional tour of the Holy Monastery of the Virgin Mary Chozoviotissa. 

Moastery of the Virgin Mary, Amorgos

The white-washed monastery is carved into a cliff. I don't think we'll get any baked raki at the end of the tour, but we have already signed up for the excursion. 

We have a swim stop at Koufonisia. The island is just south of the larger and more well-known island, Naxos. Koufonisia is popular for aquatic activities like swimming in tidepools and caves that are only accessible by boat. We'll have an opportunity to jump off the Panorama to swim, snorkel or paddleboard for a while before moving on to Iraklia.

Koufonisia

KOUFONISIA GUIDE

IRAKLIA 

Natura 2000 is a European Union body that has set up special areas of conversation areas and approximately 28% of Greek land and 20% of her marine areas is under its purview. Natura 2000 helps prevent the extinction of numerous plant and animal species and contributing to the overall ecological health of the region. 

the beach at Agios Georgios

We will have the day to ourselves, whether we decide to just relax or go for a hike in the unspoiled natural beauty of Iraklia, so far we are undecided. Here's a hint of what we're going to do. There is a beach at Agios Georgios the port on Iraklia.

We are overnight there.  

IRAKLIA GUIDE

Day 7

SERIFOS

Our last island on the Variety Cruises portion of our trip is Serifos. The company is offering another optional excursion and our guide will take us to explore the island and visit whitewashed churches and walk the narrow alleys of the Chora the capital. 

Now Serifos relies on tourism and some agriculture, but there was a time when mining the iron deposits drove the economy. The mines closed in the 1960s and we'll get to learn more of this history on the tour. But, the best part of this excursion will be the wine we are served at the end. 

Serifos

In the afternoon we sail back to Piraeus, where we are overnight before disembarking. 

SERIFOS GUIDE 

Day 8

WAIT! THERE'S MORE - HYDRA

After breakfast and good-byes on the Panorama, we need to grab a taxi to make the 10 a.m. Blue Star Ferry to Hydra. I mean, who wants to go home? 

Donkey ubers

On Hydra we are staying at the Phaedra Hotel for 5 nights. This idyllic island does not allow cars and donkeys or horses are the only means of transportation. We'll let you know how that works out. 

BLUE STAR FERRIES GREECE

PHAEDRA HOTEL HYDRA 

Thanks for reading. 

Love Janet and greg

© 2026 by Gregory Dunaj

THE POWER OF POSITIVE DRINKING IN GREECE

WINE NOT?

Greece, a reason to drink

If you’re going to drink wine, Greece is the right place. Earliest evidence of wine producing has been dated to 6,500 years ago. They must have gotten it right by now!

They created the god Dionysus to celebrate the positive drinking aspects of wine. He was not only the god of wine, but of ecstasy. The Romans held Greek wine in high regard and Bacchus became their version of the Greek deity. Their followers were the goat-footed satyrs and Maenads, wild women who danced energetically during his festivals.

I mean, you can’t get more positive than that!!!

TERROIRS GALORE 

Maenads galore

Not to get into the minutiae of the wines of Greece, but there are around 200 vine varieties throughout the country, from the northern reaches of Thrace, to the Peloponnese and Ionian Islands to the Aegean Islands to Crete. From crisp whites to complex reds there are bottles for everyone in this diverse wine loving country.

Janet is happy.

PINING FOR MORE

One type of wine we’ll try, but more than likely will avoid in Greece is Retsina. Although considered a part of Greek culture, the infusion of pine resin gives these whites a unique (or barely palatable) flavor.

Why?

You would think that with all the vineyards throughout Greece pine resin would not be tolerated, but the tradition stems from ancient times when amphorae were plugged with pine resin to prevent oxygen from spoiling the wine. Glass is impermeable. Retsina is an acquired taste. I’m holding out for Xinomavro, a complex red comparable to an Italian Barolo, or an Agiorgitiko, a full-bodied red comparable to a Merlot.

BEER HERE

Greece may be famous for her wine, but beer has been produced there since 2,000 BC and today there is a thriving microbrewery culture with something close to 100 breweries scattered across the mainland and islands.

Again, not to get into the minutiae of beer swilling here is a great list of beers from Greece: GREEK BEER LISTING

OKAY OUZO TOO

This anise flavored aperitif is popular all over the world and will probably be found on every table in Greece. Similar to the Italian sambuca, it is best served cold on ice.

There will be plenty of positive drinking soirees while in Greece to keep my lovely Maenad Janet and this satyr happy.

No drinking and driving, not even a donkey.

Thanks for reading

Love Janet and greg

© 2026 by Gregory Dunaj