Sunday, June 8, 2025

HOME ON THE KOHALA RANGE

PANIOLO ADVENTURES
Paniolos

The Paniolos have herded cattle on the vast open land of the Big Island of Hawaii since 1832. The first Hawaiian cowboys learned how to ride horses and deal with cattle from Mexican Vaqueros invited to the island by King Kamehameha III. 

The cattle population was booming after all, and they were getting out of hand.

Six cows and a bull were gifted to King Kamehameha I in 1793 by the English Naval Captain George Vancouver and because the cattle were protected with a kapu from killing them, their numbers grew to 25,000 by the time the “Espanol” arrived. They were a nuisance, trampling crops and gardens and even eating the thatched roofs of homes.

Kamehameha III lifted the kapu and the cattle industry of Hawaii began.

“Paniolo” is the Hawaiian pronunciation of “Espanol”. In Mexico the cowboys are called Vaqueros.


THE PANIOLO WAY
hanging on

Today there are several cattle ranches on the Big Island and the beef industry is still important economically and historically.

The Parker Ranch was founded in 1847 and is the oldest working ranch in the United States and at 130,000 acres one of the largest.

The Paniolo Preservation Society is located on the grounds of the Parker Ranch and is free to visit if interested in exploring more of the rich Hawaiian Paniolo history. It is also possible to see the skills of Paniolos showcased at the Parker Ranch Fourth of July rodeo, but if you can’t wait until then, then giddy up and visit the Ponoholo Ranch where you can ride horses with Paniolo Adventures.    



The 11,000-acre Ponoholo has the second largest cattle herd after the Parker Ranch at around 7,000 head and is operated with strict rotational grazing, limiting damage caused by erosion from overgrazing. For the past 25 years Paniolo Adventures has been taking haole Paniolos on 2.5-hour morning and afternoon rides through the fields.

The elevation at the Ponoholo ranch is around 3,800 feet so it was a bit cooler than the coast. I wore a light jacket, but Janet just wore a T-shirt and brought along a sweatshirt just in case. We were fitted with cowboy boots and offered helmets and there were Australian dusters to wear for especially inclement weather, but despite the capricious weather there was no need.

horse riding lessons
Our guides were two young women, and they gave us a quick onceover on how to deal with our horse, how to mount by gripping the mane and not the saddle horn, and how to attempt to get the horse to move in the proper direction with the reigns and gentle nudging with the heels. By and large though, Renegade, my horse was a bit feisty and did what he wanted to do. I just hung on. 

For this humble scribe who has spent more time on merry-go-rounds than the actual critter I was not going to tempt fate and try to impose my will. Forget about cantering. We just loped along in line with the others, admiring the land, pausing enough to take pictures at times or have a wrangler open an electric fence for our group to pass through. We never saw a head of cattle, but we were graced with brilliant sunshine, clouds, light rain and at times brisk winds. We saw majestic views of the blue Pacific Ocean and the clouds clinging to Kohala Mountain.  


PANIOLO ADVENTURES

Paniolo Adventures was not that far from our Waikoloa resort. The ride is $155 pp not including a well-deserved tip for the wranglers.

THEY GOT THE BEEF

So, it’s not just Ahi Tuna or Ono on the menu. Locally produced beef is available.

Paniolo Sunset BBQ

About a mile down the road from Paniolo Adventures. On Wednesdays they serve a BBQ prime rib dinner. There’s live music and entertainment. Enjoy the sunset view.

Waimea Butcher Shop

All their animals are raised in Hawaii and only from farmers and ranchers who follow strict standards for animal welfare. That means no antibiotics or added hormones.

Big Island Brewhaus 

This craft brewer and restaurant is nearly next door to the Waimea Butcher Shop. They serve the best hamburgers! Great beers too, some are dangerously strong.

After a long ride on the range, what could be better?

Maholo for reading.

Love Janet and greg



Me and Renegade


© 2025 by Gregory Dunaj

                                                        Willie K - Hawaiian Cowboy

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