40 ACRES AND A MULE

A Sunday for Team VFH is just another day of the week. It is just another day to enjoy and imbibe and mooch. But, in South Carolina and I suspect most of the world, Sundays are reserved as a day of prayer and to give thanks. We are not church-going folk, but we're not blasphemous. Our piety runs further than a devotion to saving money. When presented with a solemn moment or artifact we are well aware of its importance and give it the attention it deserves. This will be explained later in this blog.

Because it was a Sunday, Beaufort and the environs were slow. Many area establishments were closed and so we figured we would cut our visit to Beaufort short by a day and get on to our next destination, Hilton Head Island, where we were staying with friends for a week. But, we were in Beaufort, South Carolina, a place and area of the world that I had wanted to visit for a long time. Would we ever return? We had come so far and had seen so very little here compared to the rest of our trip to South Carolina. 

‘Would we ever return’, is a ponderous thought I often have when looking out on vistas and new places. How fleeting life can be, how swift the opportunities flit by and not grasped. “Stop, look, listen”, a dear mentor used to tell me. Advice well received by Team VFH… or at least me…. Janet is more of a mindset to get to the next destination, because after all we are supposed to be going to Hilton Head. At times I think she simply tolerates my “greg’s way” approach to things, but then only when there is convenience involved. Of course I'm kidding here, but today is a perfect example of her tolerating my maniacal need to explore.

LADY’S, ST. HELENA, FRIPP AND HUNTING ISLAND

Looking at maps of the sea island chain in South Carolina, Georgia and Florida, there are over 100 and all worth exploring (I think).

Across the Beaufort River are several islands:

Hunting Island State Park is a popular destination with the beach there highly rated by some travel brochures. It remains one of the last undeveloped lowcountry sea islands and there is a lighthouse erected in the 1800’s…we did not visit it.

Fripp Island is where the author Pat Conroy lives. It’s a gated community and NOT named after the guitarist Robert Fripp from the prog rock group King Crimson. It’s popular with visitors for the resort amenities and the efforts there to preserve the wildlife habit; island residents established an Audubon Club and had the entire island designated as a bird preserve.

Fripp is also evidently popular with alligators.
ALLIGATOR ATTACK!
We did not venture anywhere near there!

On both Hunting and Fripp Islands Viet Nam scenes from Forrest Gump were filmed.

Lady’s Island is directly across the beautiful Woods Memorial Bridge from Beaufort. The bridge was used in the jogging scene from Forrest Gump. It is a largely unincorporated. We HAD to drive there because we were on our way to St. Helena Island.

Janet wanted to visit St. Helena because it was another stop on the National Geographic Road Trip series for the Lowcountry. The island is the epicenter for the African Gullah culture and language of geechee. It is where the community of Frogmore is located and where the name Frogmore Stew was coined in the 60’s, although lowcountry boil has deep roots in the Gullah culture and is much older. Lowcountry boil is a way of cooking large amounts and many ingredients of food for family and friends at the same time.

We should have stopped for some boil, but, we were on our way to the Penn school.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC LOWCOUNTRY DRIVE

THE PORT ROYAL EXPERIMENT

When the Civil War began in 1861 one of the objectives of the Union forces was to deny the Confederates a deep water port and Port Royal, just south of Beaufort was considered very important. The Union was successful and slaves from the area were liberated as the Union occupied the area throughout the Civil War. The Penn School was part of the Port Royal experiment to help abandoned slaves learn to cope with freedom by teaching them to read and survive economically. It was one of several such schools established on St. Helena Island. The leaders of this experiment were mostly philanthropists, abolitionists and missionaries from Pennsylvania, hence the name. The experiment worked for a while. African Americans became self-sufficient and with guidance through the Penn School thrived. There was a strong desire and a feeling with the freed people they had the moral right to claim the lands they worked. People widely expected to legally claim 40 acres and a mule with the war's end.

But in 1865, President Andrew Johnson had all lands returned to the previous owners.

We made a right off Route 21 in Frogmore when we saw the sign for the Penn School. It was midday on a Sunday and all the church parking lots we passed were filled. We knew the facility would be closed, but wanted to see it anyway. Janet is a schoolmarm and is well aware of the power of education. We got out in the heat and walked around and peered into windows and snapped a few pictures. The Penn School, now called the Penn Center, taught African Americans for 86 years and then shifted its focus to offer services like day care and health training as well as promoting and preserving the Gullah Sea Island culture. This indeed was a solemn stop for us. We walked the grounds reverently and spoke in hushed tones 

We then quietly drove the length of the road, aptly named Land's End Road to briefly visit the Fort Fremont section of St. Helena Island and to peer out at Parris Island and our next destination, Hilton Head.

Thanks for reading. 

Janet and greg

You Oughta Be In Pictures

There is an ease to South Carolina, a calm genteel way that forces one to move a little slower, smile a bit more. If one tries to fight this tide, they will only drown in the wake of this glorious place and its unbridled joy. People are pleasant and polite and courteous. No, don't fight it. Just move a little slower when visiting South Carolina. Let your own smile shine through and enjoy the ride as well as the destination.

Smiling and moving at a leisurely pace, Team VFH left the Charleston, with a plan to meander. The next stop for us was Beaufort, but he had so much to see before we arrived in this home of Joe Frazier, The Big Chill and Forrest Gump. 

THE ANGEL OAK

Speaking of a leisurely pace there is the Angel Oak. We had learned about this ancient tree from the National Geographic Road Trip Series and decided to see it for ourselves.

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC LOWCOUNTRY DRIVE

This beautiful oak has been growing for a very long time. Varying brochures and websites estimate this old, stately tree from 300 to 600 years old. It is said to be the oldest living thing in North America. Indeed, why rush? Located on Johns Island in Angel Oak Park it stands over 65 feet tall and 28 feet around and offers 1700 square feet of canopy. It is free, it is beautiful and it is well worth the stop.

LOGGERHEAD

EDISTO ISLAND

Another sea island, Edisto is south of Kiawah. The ride along Route 174 is lovely, lined with live oak trees draped in silver Spanish moss and past beautiful marshes and estuaries. It is quite a drive and far off the beaten path. We ignored the opportunity to visit the Serpentarium to see reptiles from the area, and made our way to the town; some call it a semi-tropical version of Mayberry. There are no traffic lights, motels or fast food franchises and the homes are relatively modest. It is quiet. Loggerhead turtles nest here from spring through the fall and the state park on Edisto Island offers a guided nighttime walk to explore this creature’s life cycle. 

LOGGERHEAD TURTLE WALK

We stopped briefly so I could collect some sand, but did not go to the south end of the island where sea shells are plentiful.

EDISTO ISLAND, SC

BEAUFORT

It is the second oldest city in South Carolina after Charleston. I had always wanted to visit this city after learning the Big Chill, Forrest Gump and The Prince of Tides, to name a few from a long list, were filmed here. Beaufort is called by some as a little Hollywood in South Carolina. Movie locations from old Southern looks to jungle scenes are the allure as well as a beautiful warm light; there is a lot of moisture in the air. Some of the jungle scenes from Forrest Gump were filmed nearby on Fripp and Hunting Islands. Also interesting is the heavyweight champion Joe Frazier was born in this bucolic little town and it is the home of the actor Tom Berenger and the author Pat Conroy. 

Beaufort has recently been ranked No.1 as the happiest seaside town by Coastal Living Magazine. But, when we first arrived we weren’t so sure. We drove through town along route 21, past mundane store fronts and gas stations. But very soon we got to see the historic area. Turning left on Bay Street just before the Woods Memorial Bridge that spans the Beaufort River (which was used in a scene where Forrest Gump was jogging), we drove through the Old Point section of town and marveled at the beautiful antebellum homes lovingly maintained. The streets are quiet and lined with live oak draped with moss. It was everything I expected from Beaufort.

The other stretch of Bay Street is lined with trendy shops and galleries and there is a small quiet park that follows the river. A number of bars and restaurants have open decks that face the park and everyone seemed to have live music being played when we walked around town after our dinner.

There is a military presence here with the Marine Corps Recruit Depot on Parris Island nearby. Evidently the town gets crowded on Family Day and graduation from boot camp, although the ceremony is not limited to family members. This and the museum on Parris Island are popular destinations.

PARRIS ISLAND GRADUATION INFO

There is a well-attended Water Festival in Beaufort. It opens tomorrow, July 19^th. Now in its 58^th year the opening ceremonies will feature the Parris Island Marine Band. The 10 day event has music, crafts, shrimp boat tours, fireworks, a parade of boats; everything to make Beaufort a destination. Each day of the festival has a different theme, like Tropical Tuesday and Lowcountry supper Thursday.

BEAUFORT WATER FESTIVAL 

There’s a shrimp festival too, held in October and a Gullah Festival, celebrating the Sea Island culture of West African and American influences in late May.

The arts are well represented here also. Operas are held at the University of South Carolina Beaufort Center For the Arts and an International Film Festival is held in February.

Beaufort seemed vibrant and artsy and trendy and still southern and stately and genteel. There seems to be so much to do, but sadly, we had limited time in Beaufort and doubly sad we missed everything! We arrived too late to take a carriage ride through the town that would have taught us some history and showed us film locations. It was not a graduation week for the Marine recruits so the town was quiet, almost deserted on this Saturday just after the Fourth of July. The yearly sailing regatta was next week and the Water Festival was still two weeks away. 

What to do?

Well, we made the best of the situation; we opted to go out to dinner!  There are several very fine restaurants in Beaufort. We had our best meal of our trip so far in South Carolina at Dockside in Port Royale, just a few miles from the center of town, where we ate Oysters Rockefeller and the best shrimp and grits slathered with Tasso ham for appetizers, potato-encrusted Grouper and crab-stuffed flounder for dinner. Dockside is evidently the place everyone eats when family comes for graduation week at Parris Island and the wait can be torturous. Our wait was just an hour, which we spent happily at the bar.

SHRIMP AND GRITS!

The other choice for dinner was The Old Bull Tavern. It is ranked No.1 on a lot of websites. The food is British Pub with a twist and very reasonably priced. After our meal at Dockside we stopped in for a drink here. It was a bit too loud, but fun. There were many delicious items on the menu, but we were glad we had eaten at Dockside. Our original thinking was to stay on Sunday, but chatting with some locals they told us the town just rolls up and there’s nothing going on, so we never ate at The Old Bull Tavern as we decided to high-tail it to our next destination point on Sunday morning. I think though I would like to return to Beaufort and spend more time exploring the town and the sea islands nearby.

Funky Beach and Seafood Dives

We had been fighting inclement weather throughout this first week of travel in South Carolina. It rained every day, sometimes a drizzle, sometimes vociferously. Brilliant blue skies would suddenly be covered by billowing clouds and the rain would come with such force that we would have to seek shelter. The rain and wind would cool the area and then the heat would come again, a strong, piercing sun.

We had seen a lot of Charleston our first three days there and now wanted to see a bit of their beach communities. Charleston is set on a peninsula at the confluence of the Ashley and Cooper Rivers. Two islands north and south of the harbor feature beaches and each have a different feel.

FOLLY BEACH

Folly Beach is a 6 mile beach located at the eastern edge of James Island and just north of Kiawah. Several people told us Folly was a “funky” beach town, more like a surfer community and the crowded area by the bridge had plenty of bars some with music already wafting out into the mid-morning air when we arrived. Parking seemed to be an issue in the center of the island. We drove slowly to the north end and then the south end, abiding by the many hand painted signs that read: “Slow Down, It’s Folly.”  There were plenty of beach access points everywhere on the island, all with paid parking. There were also plenty of others parked on the actual street for free, but we were worried this was illegal. With later research we found out that you’re able to park on the street, as long as all tires are off the road. This sounds anal I realize, but they have a website detailing these and other rules.

 PARKING ON FOLLY?

Evidently the good natured laid back atmosphere of Folly Beach had been abused in the past, hence the rules. Last  Fourth of July two bus-loads of college drinkers were dropped off at the shore town and proceeded to drink heavily and cause some problems with the local cops. The community then banned drinking on the beach.  

ARTICLE: NO DRINKING ON FOLLY BEACH

So, given all these restrictions here at Folly Beach it sort of did not sound like the laid back funky place people described. The center of the beach where the bridge came in was congested with people vying for spots. We thought it would be nice walk around town and perhaps get a drink, but all the paid parking lots seemed filled. So, not wanting to risk a ticket in parking on the street we drove to Folly Beach County Park on the extreme southern edge of the town and paid our $8.00. The beach there is worth the drive. Emptier and because of the no-drinking laws, it was clean and family oriented. The one thing about the park is they lock the gates at 7 pm. Any car inside afterwards is stuck. We thought that was odd.

FOLLY BEACH COUNTY PARK

Anyway, we arrived at low tide and there was a very shallow incline to the water, so the beach was very wide. It was not crowded, though it was a Friday afternoon. People were riding bikes on the hard-packed sand; something I had never seen before. The water was warm. It was a very pleasant time. It is worth a return visit in the future, but we had to leave in the late afternoon because we had bigger fish to fry…literally.

BOWENS ISLAND RESTAURANT

Bowens Island Restaurant has been labeled as one of the best Seafood Dives in America. When Team VFH was doing its research for places to eat in the Charleston area, Bowens Island kept coming up as a must place to visit. It has been around since the 40’s and it keeps getting mentioned by people and websites, although some of the reviews were less than kind. Some say that Bowens is a shell of what it had been and not very good. I still say it was worth the visit. Five minutes outside of Folly Beach and set high up you can enjoy incredible views as you eat your seafood, or simply read all the graffiti scrawled on the walls. Though it embraces the ‘dive’ or minimalist approach to things, it’s really not. There’s a full bar and a very impressive selection of local craft beers on tap. (I recommend the Coast Hop Art.). Some may not find that appealing and truthfully the enterprise that is Bowens Island Restaurant was more a façade than a simple approach to some good simple food.  

BOWENS ISL REST

 

BOWENS ISL REST

To get into the restaurant you have to climb a long weaving ramp that at 5 pm is in the full sun and wait in a long line. We were lucky to get there close to opening so our wait was not that bad and though we heard from others that bug spray was a vital to survival while waiting the withering sun was more a problem. 

Sadly, Bowens Island was the place we were most looking forward to eating at and though the atmosphere was fabulous we were disappointed. Janet says you have to be a fan overeating and fried food to eat here. Bowens is known for their steamed oysters and Lowcountry boil and only open from 5 till 9 Tuesday through Saturday. I had the boil, but should have tried their shrimp and grits. Janet ordered the Big Ol’ Seafood Platter which was deep fried and ponderously heavy. It was all right, but not great. Thankfully we got there early enough to get seats at the bar, but it’s a large cavernous building with rows of tables. Screens all around let a cooling breezes through. The waitstaff emerge from the kitchen shouting out names and they bring the food to you, but you have to get your condiments and unless you’re at the bar you have to get your own drinks. As we struggled through the vast amounts of food given us we watched as the line coming through the door on this Friday afternoon never dwindled.

BOWENS ISLAND RESTAURANT 

PLATTER AND BOIL

SULLIVAN’S ISLAND

Again, with fleeting time; we were leaving Charleston the next day; we decided to take a side trip over to Sullivan’s Island before returning for the evening, just to say we were there. The history of Sully’s, as called by the locals, is ominous. It was the point of entry for 40% of the slave trade in North America and it is said that half of all African Americans today have an ancestor that disembarked here, but nowhere on the 3-mile island is there a memorial. It is now a wealthy place with affluent homes. Supposedly the actor Bill Murray keeps a place there and though we did not get an invite we did drive around and were amazed at some of the real estate.

There was a strip of inviting looking restaurants and drinking establishments brimming with patrons along the main street. We drove first down to the south end of the island to Fort Moultrie. Fort Moultrie played a major part in the American Revolution and Civil War and was decommissioned after 171 years of service in 1947 and is now part of the National Park Service.

FORT MOULTRIE 

SULLIVAN'S ISLAND

Near the fort we found a small rocky beach and with a number of other people enjoying the view we watched a huge container ship slip past the twinkling skyline of Charleston. We drove around the neighborhoods and eventually found a small area of four parking spots with beach access. It was near a lighthouse. Beneath a lavender sky we walked to the beach. The waves were small, the water was warm. It was high tide and the beach was narrow, although I had read it could be very wide at low tide. Families with small children still flounced in the water.

It was the end of a good day.

A Fifth on the Fourth

We’ve had some nice experiences while in Charleston. On the day we arrived we checked into our little lovely boutique bed and breakfast on Kings St. and dodged the rain drops as we strolled down to Battery at the ogle the stately antebellum homes there and enjoy the steady breeze off the waters of the Cooper and Ashley Rivers. We learned a new anagram: SNOB. Slightly North Of Broad. The real stately areas of Charleston begin south of Broad Street. We then walked along East Bay Street past the Rainbow Row, a stretch of homes painted in soft pastel colors and one of the more popular tourist destinations.

 

Rainbow Row Charleston SC

We tried, but failed to eat at Husk, the “hot” restaurant in town; recently featured in some television show about eating in Charleston, oh, and a James Beard Award winner; but got there too late for lunch as their kitchen closed at 2:30. We settled for a comparatively meager lunch at the Bull Street Gourmet & Market, where Janet had a salad and I had a smoky pork tenderloin sandwich. We were both very satisfied.

BULLS STREET GOURMET AND MARKET

At 5 pm we were pleased to learn they serve complimentary wine and cheese at our hotel, the Kings Courtyard Inn and lingered there over adequate whites and reds until it was time for our baseball game.

The Charleston RiverDogs, Class A in the New York Yankees organization, were playing the Rome Braves in the South Atlantic League. Tickets were just $7.00 each with a $1.00 service charge, and parking was $5.00. When we walked in they gave us a couple of senior citizen vouchers for hot dogs! Can’t beat that! Who says it sucks getting old. 
Now, Janet and I like baseball. The actor Bill Murray is a part owner in the RiverDogs, but what drew us to the game this night was the opportunity to see two guys who play in the bigs work a rehab stint with the team; Alex Rodriquez and Eduardo Nunez. The place was sold out. There were fireworks afterwards. It was good night. Before the game A-Rod and Nunez played catch near home plate to allow people to see them close up. A-Rod left the game after going 0-2 and Nunez did not come back after a 45 minute rain delay. The game went into extra innings, but the crowds never dwindled.

The RiverDogs lost.

Charleston has its fine share of bars. We saw a lot of them the next day on the 4^th of July. After taking a mule drawn carriage ride through the Battery we had a drink at the rooftop bar of the Vendue Inn. It was breezy and with shade offered by umbrellas it was a pleasant place to linger for a time. Janet had something with Sweet Tea vodka and I had a bourbon based drink, which caused me to lapse into a southern drawl for a while. Though there was not much of a view afforded by the rooftops, we basically saw other rooftops, it was well worth the visit. Vendue Inn is at 19 Vendue Range. You take a little corridor and then an elevator to the roof.

The second stop for Team VFH’s Charleston’s pub crawl was the Southend Brewery and Smokehouse for a couple of their home brews and conversation with others. Locals usually ask whether you’re visiting or local. Visitors just assume you’re from somewhere else. The beers were all right, the conversations were better. The smells from the smokehouse part of Southend were outstanding, but we did not linger for food.

After a feeble attempt to make the final boat to Ft. Sumter and missing it, we had to settle for a walk through the museum. We stood on the wharf for a while looking across the Cooper River at Patriot’s Point and Sullivan’s Island. The Ravenel Bridge soared majestically off to our left and Ft. Sumter was way off in the distance.

Because we had time to kill before we reached the happiest hour of 4 pm; we had made plans to go to Pearlz; we stopped at the Charlestowne Cigar shop. We had criss-crossed in front of the shop several times throughout the day. I bought a very reasonably priced cigar and Janet got a glass of wine. We sat at a sidewalk table and did some people watching as we waited for happy hour to begin.   CHARLESTOWNE CIGAR

By the time we left Pearlz on East Bay Street it was throbbing with patrons. We could have lingered much longer; their happy hour raw bar and small plate and drink specials are that good, but we had two more stops on our Charleston pub crawl. Friends had told us about Closed For Business on King Street. With fleeting time in our visit to Charleston we decided to stop there for a beer from their very large selection of craft brews and a burger, although the burger was overpriced and not very good. Then we were off for our booze cruise on the Carolina Queen. It was a 4^th of July fireworks special. We told everyone we met on our pub crawl that we were going on this and everyone said they had tried to get tickets but it had been sold out. Leave it to Janet to plan ahead. She signed up for emails for specials and deals and this was one of them!

The Carolina Queen is a fake paddlewheel and the ride was packed with young and old. But, there was a live band downstairs and they were selling Lagunitas beer for $3.00.  It sailed into the gathering night around the battery and we watched fireworks from all around the area being fired off, but then we settled into an area across from the aircraft carrier at Patriots Point and there, with the Ravenel bridge glowing approvingly we watched a brilliant fireworks display.

Early Birds in the Holy City

As the twin spires of the Arthur Ravenel rose majestically into the air, marking our final approach to Charleston we felt a sense of awe and wonder. There was an Emerald City mystique after all to this beautiful place. I had been to the Holy City with my son about a decade ago, before the Ravenel was opened and so this new sight just added to the charm of Charleston. The city had made an indelible impression on me and my son. Team VFH was happy to return and we giggled as we soared over the wide Cooper River.

Charleston, SC

Charleston is considered to be one of the friendliest cities in the United States. It is the very essence of Southern genteel hospitality. Everyone has a grace and a patience that is rarely exhibited elsewhere.

The architecture is opulent. The post and antebellum homes, some dating to the late 1700’s are strikingly beautiful. Most feature side porches to readily catch the winds off the Ashley and Cooper Rivers that meet at the Battery at Charleston Point. The front doors that face the street are called “false doors” and only led to the side porch. Every home has a well-tended, beautiful garden with lush growth. Many have fountains. Towering church spires from several denominations, dot the city showing off the history of this city’s religious tolerance and perhaps giving Charleston its knick name, the Holy City.

The history is long in Charleston. It was one of the wealthiest cities in the early years of the United States, having first made money with rice; first cultivated by slaves from west Africa who introduced and cultivated the grain; then Sea Island Cotton. The wealth of the south and Charleston was dependent upon the slave trade with nearly half of all human trafficking at the time going through the city. South Carolina was the first state to secede from the Union, and it was at Fort Sumter in the Charlotte harbor where the first shots of the civil war were fired.

The city is for foodies as well. A spirited debate over where the best shrimp and grits can be found is endless and local critics will send you huffing all over town or to the sea islands nearby, like Sullivan’s or Bowens. By the way, shrimp and grits is a tasty stew with differing ingredients depending on the cook … or is that a chef? And, another local dish Frogmore Stew, from the town of Frogmore with no adult pollywogs in the mix, is very good too. Also called Lowcountry boil it usually is shrimp and sausage and corn. And, perhaps dispelling the “Holy City” imagery a bit, an innocent query about where to find the best dive bars is answered quickly and with a broad smile. A favorite is given then one or two more are thrown into the mix. Evidently there are more pubs in Charleston than there are church spires, perhaps owed to the presence of pirates throughout Charleston’s history. Restaurants like Husk and Hall’s Chop House, the Hominy Grill and the Peninsula Grill are either featured on some Travel Channel Destination or are extremely popular through word of mouth.

It is a younger city too, uptown King Street has a vibrant crowd and there are several nightspots. Closed For Business on King Street CLOSED FOR BUSINESS, 

The Blind Tiger Pub on Broad and Poe’s Tavern on Sullivan’s Island are other notables. 

Dive bars like Big John’s and Henry’s on North Market Street and Salty Mikes at the Charleston Marina are destinations too.

There are four breweries in Charleston: Coast, which has a very good IPA called Hop Art; Holy City Brewery; Palmetto, which makes a very good amber; and Southend Brewery on East Bay Street.

So, given all these interests, tourism is big business in Charleston, and for everything there is a tour. There are harbor tours and a boat to Fort Sumter, where the Civil War began. There is a museum and tour of the slave mart on Chalmers Street where one can sigh heavily at this sorry time in our American history. There is the Charles Towne Pub Crawl tour that is highly regarded and carters to those who want to experience the seedier side of Charleston. And, as we hinted at debauchery here, there is walking tour about pirate history in Charleston, led by a pirate and his first mate, a chattering parrot on his shoulder.   PIRATE TOUR

One can take a walking culinary tour:  CULINARY CHARLESTON

The annual home and garden tour is held in April. Tickets for 2014 go on sale in November. ANNUAL GARDEN TOUR

One can tour the historical area in an enclosed van or an open carriage tour. We opted for the Palmetto Carriage Works: 

PALMETTO CARRIAGE WORKS

Our tour led by Sam, and his two co-workers, a couple of big mules, was leisurely and informative. Sam was funny and answered questions patiently as we trundled through the lower part of the town down King Street and the Battery. And, a question about dive bars was immediately answered with a knowing smile and a finger pointed in the direction of Big John’s.

Hotels are expensive in Charleston, but, thankfully Janet loves doing the research in seeking out the best deals. She triangulates her efforts, starting first with Trip Advisor, and then reading further reviews from Open Table and Urban Spoon. Only then does she make a decision over where Team VFH spends its nickels. I know I couldn’t put such an effort into the planning!

We spent a little bit more in Charleston, but the Kings Courtyard Inn on King Street was worth it. We could have gone to the outskirts of town or across one of the rivers for cheaper versions of a night’s stay, but the Kings Courtyard bed and breakfast offered so many amenities like cheaper parking, and wine every evening at 5, complimentary breakfasts and sherry later in the evening, that it proved a good choice. We were close enough to the historical areas to walk; Market Street was around the corner and the Battery was about a mile. The rooms were small, but neat. We had a four poster bed with a canopy that overlooked the commerce of King Street.

KINGS COURTYARD INN

One major piece of advice before I leave you today is get to happy hours early. Competition for bar stools can be withering. We’re bar sitters after all. We feel we get better service and we get to chat with all of humanity that way. Our pub crawl in Charleston our first day was planned to culminate with Pearlz on 153 East Bay Street. Janet had triangulated her research about their happy hour offerings. A dozen oysters went for $10 and the prices for small plates and half priced drinks were phenomenal. Mahi Tacos were just 7 and beers $2.50. The martinis were normally priced though…at $7. As we kept ordering food and drink we became more and more painfully aware of people swirling around us looking to pounce on our stools. By the time we left the place was throbbing with business and there was a line out the door for tables.

Pearlz

Everywhere we saw lines for places. People were lined up outside Toast on Meeting Street daily. Hyman’s and Sticky Fingers were also popular waiting lines. We never got into Husk, we kept missing their cut off for lunch. Dinner would have been impossible to get into without reservations.

Cooks not chefs

Yesterday was typical weather for the area. It rained on and off all day. Sometimes hard, sometimes it drizzled, but for the entire day there was some sort of precipitation. At times the sun would cascade a brilliant ray and the heat would come, but that was short lived. We had wanted to go to a beach, but the weather did not cooperate at all.

So, we went exploring. After Janet and I worked out and had breakfast at our wholesome hotel next to the strip joint in West Myrtle Beach, we decided to take a drive. We considered taking in a movie, but our drive in the rain was more fun as we actually saw a lot of the area. We headed south on route 17 all the way to Georgetown. Despite the drab weather we drove around and marveled at the lovely historical homes along the oak lined streets. We drove around the business district dotted with little charming shops, but did not care to walk along the Harbor Walk or even dodge the raindrops to get a cup of coffee. We turned north again when we saw looming in the near distance a not very pleasant looking paper mill factory.

Our next stop on the rain parade was Pawley’s Island.

We were fascinated with the prospect of visiting Pawley’s Island. We had read that historians from this neck of the woods consider Pawley’s Island, and nearby Litchfield Beach, as the first ocean side vacation spot in America. Evidently during the 1700’s plantation owners would move their families and their help to the island during the summer heat to escape mosquitos (and malaria). The rain did not dampen our enthusiasm at driving along the narrow roads of this very quiet, laid-back place. There is a historic district with the legacy of some of the homes on placards, but the island brims with summer rental homes. All along the inland side of the island were piers that led out into the marshes. Most ended with a little gazebo, we assumed for the owners to either fish or watch birds. On the two low lying bridges that crossed the marshes onto the island there were people crabbing and fishing even in the rain. At one point we stopped so I could add to my sand collection.

There is a remote feel to Pawley’s island, although it is very close to the commerce along Route 17. There was a serenity here that is in stark contrast to Myrtle Beach. Had we been blessed with beautiful sunny weather we would have remained on this lovely island, but we got drenched just getting my sand, so we headed back north again.

We shunned the opportunity to visit places like the Huntington Beach State Park and Brookgreen Gardens, both places worthy of sunnier days, but it was getting to be mid-afternoon and time to be thinking about happy hours. So, we steered the car back to Murrells Inlet. We got back on the Marsh Walk and today went to Drunken Jack’s for a beer and some free popcorn. On the back of their bar menu is the story of Goat Island. They introduced goats to this island so they would eat all the vegetation and give patrons an unimpeded view of the inlet. We nodded approvingly, ate our popcorn and dodged raindrops back to the car so we could eat at Russell’s.

The day before we had popped our head into this restaurant and overhearing locals at the Dead Dog Saloon along the Marsh Walk giving visitors advice about where to eat.

We had climbed the stairs, admired the outdoor deck, admired the wooden bar with the view of the inlet, admired the menu and dining area and vowed to return.

Set high on stilts across the road from the inlet Russell’s has the look of a ship with the angular deck pointing towards the water, and the seafood served is as fresh as if they themselves hauled in the catch. Inside the cozy and worn wheel house (bar) there were no beer taps and no “frozen” drinks and the bartender struggled with my straight up margarita request, and, with whimsical and nautical motif pictures and phrases and maps adorning the walls it was not a luxury setting. But VFH cares more for the quality and price and although it was somewhat cramped Russell’s was a bit more roomy and airy with all the big windows.

We started with a dozen succulent oysters that were cheaper than anywhere else we’d seen at Murrells Inlet and an order of Conch Fritters. My plate brimmed with a Blackened Grouper that too was a couple dollars cheaper than anywhere else and Janet had a Seafood Melee of broiled and blackened critters that featured some of the freshest shrimp she had ever eaten. Dessert was not plausible. Large portions of such high quality food tend to prevent you from over stuffing yourself.

Afterwards as we finished our drinks on the prow of the deck we met Russell. Or, he met us. We watched him work the room as we sat at the bar during dinner, thanking patrons for coming and daubing at imaginary spills on the lacquered wood altar. Tall, wiry, with a bushy mustache hiding a gap toothed wide smile, he was at times proud, on the edge of arrogant, and at othes defensive over his little world that was Murrells Inlet. He did most of the talking. He was born in a house across the road from his restaurant and … well… he’d been there a long time. Better you visit his place and let him bend your ear. He was very proud of the food he served at his place and its preparation. It was far from fancy, but that’s not what people want he had said. He spoke of the fierce competition for patrons in Murrells Inlet and making sure his product was fresh and good was his edge. We agreed, saying we had traveled extensively through southwest Louisiana and his food was as wonderful. But, the difference at Russell’s is, he said, that people what they want, that’s why they have good honest food there. You won’t find chefs there, only cooks.

Serendipity and Chance and Riverdogs

*******This update from our South Carolina road trip. 

While eating breakfast at the hotel this morning, after having to step over slumbering patrons from the strip joint Fantails next door who somehow wandered into our lobby, Team VFH read that Alex Rodriquez, 3rd baseman for the New York Yankees will be playing in his second rehabilitation game tonight with the Yankees class A affiliate Charleston Riverdogs. SRO tickets were all that was left, but we decided to spend the $7.00 per ticket (plus a $1 service charge) to go to the game. We are leaving the Grand Strand / Myrtle Beach area to begin a four day stint in Charleston anyway.

Class A Charleston River Dogs

A-Rod has played with the Yankees for the past 9 years, and had hip surgery in the off-season. Before he came to the Yankees in 2004 from the Texas Rangers he was considered the best shortstop in MLB, but to appease the Yankees faithful and to not upset the world of El Capitan, Derek Jerek, the team's shortstop, A-Rod said he would move to third and has played remarkably well. He is a big strong right hander who has 647 career home runs. I once saw him crush a line drive HR into the black area of the old Yankees Stadium. Some hate him; they call him arrogant. I don't care, he's a stud, at least according to Madonna... And, afterwards they are setting off fireworks.

A-Rod ... loved by all

And, another guy who played in the bigs for the Yankees is also rehabing tonight, Eduardo Nunez.

Should be fun....

Now back to your regular travel blog....***********

The Grand Strand and the Marsh Walk

The drive from Pennsylvania to Wilson, North Carolina was fairly easy; Janet did sleep most of the way! We arrived at the doorstep to Parker’s “Original” Barbeque at 9 a.m., having successfully avoided the rush hours of Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington, D.C. and Richmond. We did leave at 3 a.m. after all. Early enough to miss the traffic and just in time for Parker’s to open for the day!

We were so early the staff was still arriving at this spare, wood-paneled, classic Eastern North Carolina Barbeque joint. Stepping into Parker’s is like entering the 1950’s again. The barbeque is good and as unpretentious as the décor; tender, skin-flecked classic Eastern North Carolina barbeque, vinegary though slightly dry, with hushpuppies and cole slaw. The waitstaff are all young white men, hustling and polite and wearing white shirts and aprons and little white hats. We had been to Parker’s before and we were anxiously waiting to return to this bbq time warp. Parker's BBQ, Wilson, NC

The place was open, but it did not smell of bbq! Instead, it smelled of cleaning products from the bathroom near the front door. Chairs were still on the tables, but no one shooed us away. We felt awkward. Though Team VFH had been traveling for hours already, who eats bbq at such an early hour? There was not one “breakfast” item on the menu.  Our waiter was patient though. He placed chairs down for us to sit and without any sense of agitation listened to us laboring over what was really a simple choice; how big was our order and what kind of sides we wanted. He sounded like Petyon Manning when he asked if we wanted hushpuppies and cole slaw. Embarrassed we said to make it a large order and make it to go. I think it was the most expensive item on the menu. He wrote out the check for $6.50 and handed it to the cashier girl and then put his cleaning gloves on again and disappeared into the bathroom. I left $2.00 for him with the girl and doused the bbq with their vinegar / hot pepper sauce. Later after we checked into our hotel in Myrtle Beach we ate this prized lunch cold and it was great!

9 am is too early for bbq?

Myrtle Beach is part of the Long Bay, or more recently named, the Grand Strand, a 60+ mile stretch of uninterrupted beaches that forms a long gentle arc on the South Carolina coast. The history of Myrtle Beach differs little from other such areas in the American coast line; first popular with the native Americans, later popular with European settlers and eventually growing in such popularity that it attracts over 14 million visitors yearly. From biker rallies to spring break crazies, Myrtle Beach is very popular and offers a lot of tourist attractions, as well as the actual “shore”.

VFH wanted to stay in Murrells Inlet, a small town south of Myrtle Beach primarily because it calls itself the Seafood Capital of South Carolina, but hotel prices are prohibitive. The surrounding area is a bit pricey as well. We, or should I say, Janet, looked at places in Myrtle Beach proper or nearby at Surfside Beach, but couldn’t find a place worthy of our wallet, or the price wasn’t good enough to dispel our repulsion of roaches and broken glass…at least according to some of the reviews. So, we’re staying out in West Myrtle Beach where there are so many strip joints we could hit a satisfied and soiled patron with a balled up dollar bill from our window. Janet just balked at this sentence, and true, the hotel we are staying in is as wholesome and clean as the girls at Fantails next door are nude and (hopefully) dirty.

 

stating the obvious?

Murrells Inlet is approximately 11 miles south of the Myrtle Beach revelry and there is none of the seediness and neon and noise found there. The main attraction is a half mile Marsh Walk that is pleasant and enjoyed by tourist and local alike, some walking along with their drinks. There are several bars and restaurants here and it seems people can walk with their adult libations (as long as they finish it before the next bar.) With illustrious names like Drunken Jack’s, Dead Dog Saloon and The Mullet Hut, there is a certain chicanery afoot here, though in Murrells Inlet it was much more subdued than one would expect when public drinking is involved. Boats for hire are moored along the Marsh Walk and people snapped pictures posing with statues of a landed fish and a pirate as well as Goat Island. Drunken Jack’s overlooks the island and in order to offer views of the inlet introduced goats to the island to eat the vegetation. Don’t worry, they are sheltered in the winter elsewhere. The goats share the island with a number of peacocks and peahens. The Walk also extended out into the water, where the wind was rather brisk for us this day and people were crabbing with chicken necks and nets.

 The Murrells Inlet Marsh Walk

We figured somewhere along this Marsh Walk we would find a restaurant that we liked enough. There were plenty of people going out for dinner and most of the places were packed and with wait lists. We’re bar sitters though and finding a vacant bar stool turned out to be surprisingly easy. We settled on the Dead Dog Saloon. It features a large indoor/outdoor deck on the waterfront, live music and a wall of photographs depicting dearly departed best friends. It was large and noisy and frantic and the beer list was poor and their prices were high. Still, we had a fine meal. Janet had she-crab soup for nearly $7.00 and I had $12 Grouper Tacos. Both were very tasty and we were happy, but not satisfied. It simply wasn’t enough seafood for us and the prices were far too high and the place a bit too touristy for us to eat a full meal there. Great bar. They are all great bars along the Marsh Walk, but we found out about another place that would prove to be much better..  

 Dead Dog Saloon

As we ate our meal at Dead Dog’s bar, I eavesdropped on a couple telling another couple where to eat. The first were residents, the other two tourists. The first place she mentioned was Russell’s. It was a few miles down the road and far off the touristed Marsh Walk. We drove there and poked our heads in the place and liked what we saw and smelled and made a plan to return to Murrells Inlet and Russell's Seafood tomorrow. 

 Russell's Seafood Murrells Inlet