Cooks not chefs

Yesterday was typical weather for the area. It rained on and off all day. Sometimes hard, sometimes it drizzled, but for the entire day there was some sort of precipitation. At times the sun would cascade a brilliant ray and the heat would come, but that was short lived. We had wanted to go to a beach, but the weather did not cooperate at all.

So, we went exploring. After Janet and I worked out and had breakfast at our wholesome hotel next to the strip joint in West Myrtle Beach, we decided to take a drive. We considered taking in a movie, but our drive in the rain was more fun as we actually saw a lot of the area. We headed south on route 17 all the way to Georgetown. Despite the drab weather we drove around and marveled at the lovely historical homes along the oak lined streets. We drove around the business district dotted with little charming shops, but did not care to walk along the Harbor Walk or even dodge the raindrops to get a cup of coffee. We turned north again when we saw looming in the near distance a not very pleasant looking paper mill factory.

Our next stop on the rain parade was Pawley’s Island.

We were fascinated with the prospect of visiting Pawley’s Island. We had read that historians from this neck of the woods consider Pawley’s Island, and nearby Litchfield Beach, as the first ocean side vacation spot in America. Evidently during the 1700’s plantation owners would move their families and their help to the island during the summer heat to escape mosquitos (and malaria). The rain did not dampen our enthusiasm at driving along the narrow roads of this very quiet, laid-back place. There is a historic district with the legacy of some of the homes on placards, but the island brims with summer rental homes. All along the inland side of the island were piers that led out into the marshes. Most ended with a little gazebo, we assumed for the owners to either fish or watch birds. On the two low lying bridges that crossed the marshes onto the island there were people crabbing and fishing even in the rain. At one point we stopped so I could add to my sand collection.

There is a remote feel to Pawley’s island, although it is very close to the commerce along Route 17. There was a serenity here that is in stark contrast to Myrtle Beach. Had we been blessed with beautiful sunny weather we would have remained on this lovely island, but we got drenched just getting my sand, so we headed back north again.

We shunned the opportunity to visit places like the Huntington Beach State Park and Brookgreen Gardens, both places worthy of sunnier days, but it was getting to be mid-afternoon and time to be thinking about happy hours. So, we steered the car back to Murrells Inlet. We got back on the Marsh Walk and today went to Drunken Jack’s for a beer and some free popcorn. On the back of their bar menu is the story of Goat Island. They introduced goats to this island so they would eat all the vegetation and give patrons an unimpeded view of the inlet. We nodded approvingly, ate our popcorn and dodged raindrops back to the car so we could eat at Russell’s.

The day before we had popped our head into this restaurant and overhearing locals at the Dead Dog Saloon along the Marsh Walk giving visitors advice about where to eat.

We had climbed the stairs, admired the outdoor deck, admired the wooden bar with the view of the inlet, admired the menu and dining area and vowed to return.

Set high on stilts across the road from the inlet Russell’s has the look of a ship with the angular deck pointing towards the water, and the seafood served is as fresh as if they themselves hauled in the catch. Inside the cozy and worn wheel house (bar) there were no beer taps and no “frozen” drinks and the bartender struggled with my straight up margarita request, and, with whimsical and nautical motif pictures and phrases and maps adorning the walls it was not a luxury setting. But VFH cares more for the quality and price and although it was somewhat cramped Russell’s was a bit more roomy and airy with all the big windows.

We started with a dozen succulent oysters that were cheaper than anywhere else we’d seen at Murrells Inlet and an order of Conch Fritters. My plate brimmed with a Blackened Grouper that too was a couple dollars cheaper than anywhere else and Janet had a Seafood Melee of broiled and blackened critters that featured some of the freshest shrimp she had ever eaten. Dessert was not plausible. Large portions of such high quality food tend to prevent you from over stuffing yourself.

Afterwards as we finished our drinks on the prow of the deck we met Russell. Or, he met us. We watched him work the room as we sat at the bar during dinner, thanking patrons for coming and daubing at imaginary spills on the lacquered wood altar. Tall, wiry, with a bushy mustache hiding a gap toothed wide smile, he was at times proud, on the edge of arrogant, and at othes defensive over his little world that was Murrells Inlet. He did most of the talking. He was born in a house across the road from his restaurant and … well… he’d been there a long time. Better you visit his place and let him bend your ear. He was very proud of the food he served at his place and its preparation. It was far from fancy, but that’s not what people want he had said. He spoke of the fierce competition for patrons in Murrells Inlet and making sure his product was fresh and good was his edge. We agreed, saying we had traveled extensively through southwest Louisiana and his food was as wonderful. But, the difference at Russell’s is, he said, that people what they want, that’s why they have good honest food there. You won’t find chefs there, only cooks.

The Grand Strand and the Marsh Walk

The drive from Pennsylvania to Wilson, North Carolina was fairly easy; Janet did sleep most of the way! We arrived at the doorstep to Parker’s “Original” Barbeque at 9 a.m., having successfully avoided the rush hours of Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington, D.C. and Richmond. We did leave at 3 a.m. after all. Early enough to miss the traffic and just in time for Parker’s to open for the day!

We were so early the staff was still arriving at this spare, wood-paneled, classic Eastern North Carolina Barbeque joint. Stepping into Parker’s is like entering the 1950’s again. The barbeque is good and as unpretentious as the décor; tender, skin-flecked classic Eastern North Carolina barbeque, vinegary though slightly dry, with hushpuppies and cole slaw. The waitstaff are all young white men, hustling and polite and wearing white shirts and aprons and little white hats. We had been to Parker’s before and we were anxiously waiting to return to this bbq time warp. Parker's BBQ, Wilson, NC

The place was open, but it did not smell of bbq! Instead, it smelled of cleaning products from the bathroom near the front door. Chairs were still on the tables, but no one shooed us away. We felt awkward. Though Team VFH had been traveling for hours already, who eats bbq at such an early hour? There was not one “breakfast” item on the menu.  Our waiter was patient though. He placed chairs down for us to sit and without any sense of agitation listened to us laboring over what was really a simple choice; how big was our order and what kind of sides we wanted. He sounded like Petyon Manning when he asked if we wanted hushpuppies and cole slaw. Embarrassed we said to make it a large order and make it to go. I think it was the most expensive item on the menu. He wrote out the check for $6.50 and handed it to the cashier girl and then put his cleaning gloves on again and disappeared into the bathroom. I left $2.00 for him with the girl and doused the bbq with their vinegar / hot pepper sauce. Later after we checked into our hotel in Myrtle Beach we ate this prized lunch cold and it was great!

9 am is too early for bbq?

Myrtle Beach is part of the Long Bay, or more recently named, the Grand Strand, a 60+ mile stretch of uninterrupted beaches that forms a long gentle arc on the South Carolina coast. The history of Myrtle Beach differs little from other such areas in the American coast line; first popular with the native Americans, later popular with European settlers and eventually growing in such popularity that it attracts over 14 million visitors yearly. From biker rallies to spring break crazies, Myrtle Beach is very popular and offers a lot of tourist attractions, as well as the actual “shore”.

VFH wanted to stay in Murrells Inlet, a small town south of Myrtle Beach primarily because it calls itself the Seafood Capital of South Carolina, but hotel prices are prohibitive. The surrounding area is a bit pricey as well. We, or should I say, Janet, looked at places in Myrtle Beach proper or nearby at Surfside Beach, but couldn’t find a place worthy of our wallet, or the price wasn’t good enough to dispel our repulsion of roaches and broken glass…at least according to some of the reviews. So, we’re staying out in West Myrtle Beach where there are so many strip joints we could hit a satisfied and soiled patron with a balled up dollar bill from our window. Janet just balked at this sentence, and true, the hotel we are staying in is as wholesome and clean as the girls at Fantails next door are nude and (hopefully) dirty.

 

stating the obvious?

Murrells Inlet is approximately 11 miles south of the Myrtle Beach revelry and there is none of the seediness and neon and noise found there. The main attraction is a half mile Marsh Walk that is pleasant and enjoyed by tourist and local alike, some walking along with their drinks. There are several bars and restaurants here and it seems people can walk with their adult libations (as long as they finish it before the next bar.) With illustrious names like Drunken Jack’s, Dead Dog Saloon and The Mullet Hut, there is a certain chicanery afoot here, though in Murrells Inlet it was much more subdued than one would expect when public drinking is involved. Boats for hire are moored along the Marsh Walk and people snapped pictures posing with statues of a landed fish and a pirate as well as Goat Island. Drunken Jack’s overlooks the island and in order to offer views of the inlet introduced goats to the island to eat the vegetation. Don’t worry, they are sheltered in the winter elsewhere. The goats share the island with a number of peacocks and peahens. The Walk also extended out into the water, where the wind was rather brisk for us this day and people were crabbing with chicken necks and nets.

 The Murrells Inlet Marsh Walk

We figured somewhere along this Marsh Walk we would find a restaurant that we liked enough. There were plenty of people going out for dinner and most of the places were packed and with wait lists. We’re bar sitters though and finding a vacant bar stool turned out to be surprisingly easy. We settled on the Dead Dog Saloon. It features a large indoor/outdoor deck on the waterfront, live music and a wall of photographs depicting dearly departed best friends. It was large and noisy and frantic and the beer list was poor and their prices were high. Still, we had a fine meal. Janet had she-crab soup for nearly $7.00 and I had $12 Grouper Tacos. Both were very tasty and we were happy, but not satisfied. It simply wasn’t enough seafood for us and the prices were far too high and the place a bit too touristy for us to eat a full meal there. Great bar. They are all great bars along the Marsh Walk, but we found out about another place that would prove to be much better..  

 Dead Dog Saloon

As we ate our meal at Dead Dog’s bar, I eavesdropped on a couple telling another couple where to eat. The first were residents, the other two tourists. The first place she mentioned was Russell’s. It was a few miles down the road and far off the touristed Marsh Walk. We drove there and poked our heads in the place and liked what we saw and smelled and made a plan to return to Murrells Inlet and Russell's Seafood tomorrow. 

 Russell's Seafood Murrells Inlet