VACATIONS FROM HOME: September 2026

WHEN YOU DON’T WANNA GO HOME

Hydra Greece Uber
After three days in Athens and 8 days aboard the Panorama visiting several small islands, we had not yet tired of Greece and wanted more. So, rather than rushing to catch a plane after we disembarked in Piraeus, we stayed for another 5 days on the island of Hydra.

The island is a popular day and weekend destination for Athenians. From Piraeus it’s a 90-minute ferry. Some drive to Metochi on the Peloponnese coast, park their car in a secure lot there and take a 20-minute ferry ride to Hydra.

The horseshoe shaped port in the main town is charming despite the busy weekends. It brims with shops and tavernas and souvenir shops catering to the tourists that descend on this island.

The port itself is chock full of yachts and fishing boats and the comparatively massive ferries are constantly gliding effortlessly in and out with their passengers. Adding to this controlled chaos are the water taxis that flit into port expertly backing into their slips with passengers coming or going to some of the area beaches.

TIME TO EXPLORE

Unlike our limited stays at the islands that we visited with Variety Cruises, which always left us hankering for more time, we got to leisurely explore the town and visit several beaches without a schedule. Even the “to do” list of Athens was too much in the short amount of time we had there. On Hydra we did it right. Just being able to linger over coffees like locals and allow the day to pass for a bit without having to worry about the time was a great joy and even though Hydra was extremely busy on the weekend, it was noticeably quieter during the week. Both extremes were fine, though sometimes it was difficult to get a table for dinner. Make a point of calling for reservations, especially if you are traveling to Hydra during the high season.

DONKEY UBERS

Adding to the charm of Hydra is the complete ban on motor vehicles. Donkeys and horses are water taxis are the main means of transportation. At the port colorfully decorated donkey are for hire for rides or to tote your luggage. We were easily able to roll our bags along the narrow cobblestoned streets and alleys to our hotel, although we did hire a fellow with a hand cart to transport our bags back to the ferry when we left.

During our stay on Hydra, we did see luggage strapped to the back of donkeys and we saw workers riding a donkey to work, with other beasts of burden tethered behind them carrying their tools. We also saw at least one family with two young kids riding one donkey through the town.

WHERE WE STAYED

There are no shortage of hotels and pensions on Hydra, both near the town and further out. We opted for the Phaedra Hotel which was a far enough from the antics of the port and after a reasonably short walk rather quiet. Hilda the owner spoke excellent English and gave great recommendations for dinners and made reservations. We stayed on the ground floor in the spacious and comfortable “Aphrodite” Room. Windows opened to the street and we could hear the clattering of horses and donkeys as they passed by. An ample breakfast was served on the upstairs balcony at this reasonably priced charming hotel. Our five night stay cost 950 Euros.

PHAEDRA HOTEL

The Aphrodite Room

Phaedra Hotel exterior
our windows on the lower right

view from the breakfast balcony

HARRIET’S HYDRA HORSES

Instead of a donkey ride we opted for a guided horse ride with Harriet’s Hydra Horses. Her stables were just a quick walk from the Phaedra and we opted for a trek into the hills of Hydra where we were afforded excellent views of the port and stopping at the St. Konstantinos Monastery to look around before heading back through the narrow streets of Hydra town and passing the Phaedra Hotel on our way back.

Harriet runs several other treks including one where you get to ride the horses bareback as they wade through the waters.

Her place is efficient with a priority on safety. We thoroughly enjoyed our time and we even learned that “Yeee” is the Greek version for “giddyup”.

HARRIET'S HYDRA HORSES

riding through Hydra town

WHERE WE SWAM

Don’t expect wide sandy beaches on Hydra. Most are pebbly, some are rocks, okay small boulders, and a few are just low cliffs perfect for diving into the water. Spilia is a short walk from the port and they’ve poured concrete on the cliffs to create smooth areas to lounge on between dips. It gets crowded. We didn’t go there, although we went next door to the Sunset Beach Bar one evening for drinks and to ahem catch the sunset, joining hordes of revelers celebrating the end of a glorious day.

Sunset Beach Bar Hydra

We went to three separate beaches during our time on Hydra. All were accessible by walking paths or roads or via water taxis. Water taxis are 10 Euros round trip, but you pay the full 10 Euros if you just take it one way, as we did after waking to Vlychos one day and to the small beach at the Lefteraki Taverna another day. The walk proved to be too tiring after all. When we went to Plakes we indulged in the water taxi both ways.

Vlychos

It is a lovely 40-minute walk which takes you past several other beaches, but we were intent on coming to Vlychos because we wanted to eat at the Taverna Marina which was highly recommended in our guide books. We sat at a table overlooking the ocean and had a meal. The beach at Vlychos though is red and black pebbles and giving the water a murky look. It wasn’t too inviting for us and it was too late in the day to rent a sunbed so we took a water taxi back.

MARINA TAVERNA

Plakes

Another day we took a water taxi to Plakes a bit further out from Vlychos. It is rocky there too, but the very classy Bellevalia Hotel is there as well. We had coffee on their lanai, hired sunbeds and wore water shoes. While lounging we ordered drinks from our attendant. I paid with a credit card, but gave him a cash tip and he was very appreciative.

Plakes Hydra

The water is clear and at least you can see where all the big rocks are underwater. We spent the large part of our day at Plakes. It was an enjoyable day. We got there early and eventually all the sunbeds were taken.

water nymph

Bellevalia at Plakes

BELLEVALIA HYDRA

Lefteraki Taverna Beach

Heading northeast away from Hydra Town we strolled along a proper roac that had some cars on it. Ambulances and garbage trucks and utility vehicles are all that’s allowed on Hydra. The winding road took us past several beautiful homes and we found Lefteraki Taverna Beach which is a small pebbly family oriented beach.

Lefteraki Taverna Beach

We found seats, thus avoiding hiring sunbeds, but ordered drinks from the roving waiter. There is a water taxi stand at one end of the small beach. Just beyond Lefteraki is Mantraki Beach which was is part of the Mantraki Resort. It is the only truly sandy beach on Hydra, but we were happy with where we landed that day. The beach here is pebbly, but the water was very inviting.

LEFTERAKI TAVERNA

MANTRAKI RESORT HYDRA

If you would like to read more about Hydra beaches here is a good website:

HYDRA GREECE BEACH GUIDE

WHERE WE ATE

Reservations are highly recommended for all restaurants. Remember Hydra gets very busy with day trippers and weekend visits. We decided on a nightcap at a restaurant we had eaten at earlier. We had reservations but it was fairly empty. When we returned though it was full and we were turned away. Of course, you could wind your way down to the port where there are countless establishments and flit about until you find a seat, but it is best to plan ahead.

Giasemi

This restaurant is a very short walk from our Phaedra Hotel. We shared a Greek salad…we had learned our lesson about overordering, and we had a whole grilled sea bass and greens as a side. Our waitress deftly deboned our fish and after cautioning us against feeding the cats that were gathered around our outdoor table we enjoyed our meal.

Giasemi

This is where our nightcap didn’t happen.

GIASEMI

Taverna Marina

You don’t have to get reservations for this airy place in Vlykos, but if you want a table right at the ocean’s edge it’s best to call ahead. It was a light lunch of a shared Greek salad and fried eggplant and drinks.

TAVERNA MARINA

Annita’s Restaurant

In a quiet square not far from the Phaedra Hotel. Charming especially at night. When we had our horse trek earlier in our stay on Hydra we traipsed through the square.

ANNITA'S RESTAURANT HYDRA

… and onions souvlaki

You can’t go to Greece without souvlaki and this very busy place micro restaurant serves the best on Hydra. It’s right on Tompazi Street just up from the harbor. You’ll know this is the right place by all the people milling around waiting for tables to open. Great comfort food.

...and Onions Souvlaki

Veranda Restaurant

This was our favorite place. With a table overlooking the harbor the classy atmosphere at Veranda is unmatched. We had martinis, shared a bottle of wine from Crete and had specialty drinks to go with our appetizers and seafood mains.