MILOS, GREECE

TIMING IS EVERYTHING 

replica Venus de Milo

Had we visited the island of Milos first before all the others on our “Unexplored Greece” excursion with Variety Cruises, we would have been delighted. Afterall, the island has a lot to offer. From history; it was here the famous Venus de Milo statue was discovered; to the hill-top Plaka that is like a Disney-land version of Greek islands; to the lunar landscape beach of Sarakiniko that is carved from ancient lava flows; to a port burgeoning with yachts and cafes and tavernas all filled with tourists from across the world, with many of them having loud conversations where every other word is italicized.

It’s a very popular island and though we were happy to have visited it because of all the aforementioned sights, it was very busy…too busy… We had grown accustomed to relative solitude throughout our cruise and Milos was far from quiet and overwhelmingly touristed. Even Kalymnos, though busy, had a very working-man Greek feel to it and the tavernas at the port were all filled with locals, while Milos was hedging on more a party atmosphere.

We stopped at Milos because of inclement weather that altered our planned itinerary.

I GO SWIMMING

Provatas, Milos

As always, the day started with a chance to swim and Provatas Beach, on the south side of Milos, was perhaps the nicest on our trip so far. Long and sandy with placid refreshing water, there was even a lifeguard. There were little beach bungalows, looking more like garages (which would be explained later on during our tour of the island), that were for rent and there was a bar at one end and restaurant a short walk up a hill that had the owner  arranging the catch of the day on ice.

Provatas, Milos

WALKING ON THE MOON

There are several notable beaches on Milos, but the most unique was Sarakiniko on the north side of the island. The white volcanic tuff of the area has been described as a lunar landscape.

Sarakiniko, Milos

Once the Panorama was docked at the busy Adamas port, situated on the north side of the large sheltered Ormos Miliou bay, we took an optional tour of Milos.

The first stop was to visit the very popular Sarakiniko Beach. Though blazingly hot with the unrelenting sun beating down, people climb all over the white tuff that has been carved into wild shapes by the wind and weather over time.

The azure blue Aegean was inviting and people would either jump into the water from the rocks or enter the sea by a long narrow niche in the tuff that ends in a small beach.

the "beach" at Sarakiniko, Milos

Descending from the parking lot the niche looks like Sarakiniko was cleaved in two. At the end of this finger of water there is a lifeguard stand and behind them there are caves that can be explored. They were carved into the tuff and used both by pirates as a hideout to ambush passing ships and later, Greeks to store provisions. 

Sarakiniko, Milos

cave at Sarakiniko, MIlos

There are no amenities at Sarakiniko once you leave the parking lot. It is a bit of a hike to reach the water. At the parking lot though there is a food truck. 

As we were on a tour, we did not have the opportunity to linger at Sarakiniko; we had less than an hour to explore; although other Panorama passengers took a taxi to reach the beach and spent the afternoon there. If you visit remember the sun heats the white tuff making it very hot and there is really no shade. Bring water.

Here is a Google Earth map of Sarakiniko and you can see the long narrow “beach” and surrounding terrain:.GOOGLE EARTH SARAKINIKO

 

cave at Sarakiniko, Milos

MIGHTY APHRODITE

In 1820 a farmer working his fields discovered the statue called Venus de Milo. Venus is the Roman name for the Greek god of love, Aphrodite. The statue was subsequently spirited off to Paris and has been on display at the Louvre ever since. Our tour of Milos next took us to the exact spot where the statue was found and a little further along was an amphitheater dating from Hellenistic times. Some scholars say the statue was part of a display on the side of the road leading to the amphitheater.

amphitheater with bay and
Klima in the background

From our vantage point we could see the stage, the vast expanse of the bay and a hint of Klima, a little fishing village whose colorful boat houses have been converted into accommodations. Never had the chance to explore Klima though because the tour was moving on to the next location, the Plaka.

Klima

TOO TOO

The Plaka is the capital of Milos and atop a hill overlooking the island and bay. The narrow streets with boutique shops and restaurants with waiters hawking passersby to stop seemed preternaturally too idealistic. It was everything one would expect on a visit to a Greek island, with tourists milling about and waiters scurrying with plates of food and drink, but it seemed “too perfect” if one could be so callous. 

It’s difficult to explain, but after flitting through several islands that were quieter and relaxed the Plaka on Milos seemed very aware of itself and this had more a façade than a place where people lived and drank. We were there just less than an hour, and it wasn’t until we were leaving that I finally saw a group of old men and women sitting around the corner from the Plaka kind of hoping no one saw them.

This is not to say we didn’t enjoy our time there. The Plaka is great for catching a sunset, but we didn’t even have time to visit the Sand Museum. The owner there has collected samples from all over the world (sounds like me) and visitors are invited to view some of the sand underneath a Microscope. Sadly, I found out about the Sand Museum only after we left. 

Avii, Plaka, Milos

At least we found the Avli Milos Taverna where they serve a beer brewed specifically for them.

AVLI-MILOS, PLAKA

bay view from the Plaka, Milos

ADAMAS / WE KNOW BETTER

In the main port there are countless shops and tavernas and restaurants. We had dinner in a crowded street-side taverna. Filled with everyone from everywhere we shared a Greek salad and Souvlaki. Tour buses rambled by, trust-fund kids chattered away as we ate in silence and soon thereafter made for the relative quiet of the Panorama. Adamas was too busy, and yet this was the “off-season” in June.

Again, if this were the first stop on our adventure, we would have been very happy. We knew better though. We were thankful to have visited Milos, but it was time to move on.

Maybe I’ll go back someday…just to go to the Sand Museum.

You should go too.

Thanks for reading.

Love Janet and greg

Plaka, Milos

© 2026 by Gregory Dunaj

YOU RUN AND YOU RUN TO CATCH UP WITH THE SUN

BUT ITS SINKING

You sainted readers who are checking in at Vacation From Home expecting another installment of our travels through some very small Greek islands, I have to digress today. Today is my daughter’s birthday. She is now 40. I guess you can call that middle-aged, but I would never level that accusation to her personally, lest I am flattened by her feisty vitriol. It is that feistiness that I’ve passed on to her that makes me happiest, because rather than lamenting the passage of time we both embrace the opportunities a new dawn brings us. Afterall, the alternative is bleak.

She is my first born and that always comes with a cache of pride.

Her birth was a bit tumultuous as we got to the hospital at 1:00 pm and she arrived less than an hour later, much to the chagrin of the nursing staff and the OB-GYN doctor. We were in a birthing room (as young parents we had “planned” the event). But, when I tried to retrieve the boom box (yes, that was 40 years ago) to play soothing reggae music, the future ex-wife demanded I stay. The doctor wanted to move us to a more spacious OR, but my Lamaze training kicked in and as the HC I said the child was not going to be born in the hallway….it was happening that quickly.

The doctor gave me that patented dirty-doctor look and acquiesced. While telling the attending nurse to get supplies, my daughter exited her mother and he literally caught her.

Then peed on him.

Everyone was stunned with the speed of this “event”. My first words to the wife were, when we learned it was a girl, (we were expecting a son): “Honey, we’re going to have to pay for the wedding.”

I opted not to cut the umbilical cord and the doctor had the blood splay across his scrubs.

When the nurses finally cleaned her up and wrapped my daughter in a blanket and cap they presented her to me. My wife was in the throes of anguish and my daughter hearing her voice began to cry.

I said to the as yet unnamed human in my arms, “Don’t worry little girl, I’m your father. I've got you, and you are safe.” She opened her eyes, a minute old and sighed, comforted by my voice, and went right to sleep.

Happy birthday to my daughter, long may she ride. She will always be safe with me.

Thanks for reading.

Love, always greg and Janet

Hawaii

© 2026 by Gregory Dunaj

ASTYPALAIA GREECE

TRULY A HIDDEN GEM

Chora on Astypalaia

Like a modern-day Odyssey, the captain of the Panorama veered off the scheduled itinerary as we flitted through the many islands of the Aegean, but rather than being tossed about by Poseidon’s ire, the captain chose to steer clear of the capricious god. The itinerary originally had us calling on three islands, Amorgos, Koufonisia and Iraklia, but calmer weather had us sailing to Astypalaia, Milos and then Serifos.

SERENDIPITY SIMPLICITY

Astypalaia (we were calling it Asti Spumante) proved to be a wonderful stop. The butterfly-shaped island with white-washed houses looking like stacked sugar cubes trimmed in blue is not a prime tourist destination. In fact, later in the day when we took an electric bus to tour Chora and her windmills, and climbed to the Querini Castle, we learned many of the owners of the little shops and restaurants there were excited their island was being visited by a tour ship! With just 38 passengers the Panorama isn’t a big tour ship, but our visit elated the population. It was interesting to learn that even some of the crew of the Panorama had never been to Astypalia as well.

Astypalaia is quiet and maybe that was the allure. The island did not have the throbbing crowds of other islands like Santorini or Crete, but its relative isolation had every passenger on the Panorama saying Variety Cruises should make the island a scheduled stop.

As we were in the shoulder season, July and August are the busiest time, the island seemed empty.

BEACHES, TAVERNAS AND SUSTAINABLE SERVICE

We had some idle time to walk around town and found a small family run taverna to have ouzo. We were entertained by their precocious young daughter who kept sneaking looks at us from the interior of the taverna while we sat in the shade of their patio.

It’s very hilly away from the port so we limited our stroll to just one set of stairs where we were greeted by an inquisitive clowder of cats looking for a handout.

There is a lone beach near the port, but my understanding there are several beautiful beaches around the island. All are accessible by car, motorcycle, ATV, taxi or limited bus service by the electric Astybus. We had a swim stop before we made port and the beach was sandy and the water clear and refreshing. It was the nicest beach so far on the trip, though amenities like a beach-side bar were not yet open.

By the way, Astypalaia is the first European place that is seriously trying to become completely eco-friendly and completely decarbonized with a partnership between Volkswagen and the Greek government. Currently the fleet of rental cars offered by many of the rental companies are a mix of ICE and EV vehicles.  

VERGOULIS CAR RENTAL ASTYPALAIA

VENETIAN CASTLE, WINDMILLS…and CRAFT BEER

After dinner onboard the Panorama we went on a tour of Chora, the main town of the island and on a hill overlooking all of Astypalaia. There are several beautiful red-capped windmills called xetrochari there, used by the people for centuries to mill their crops grown on the island. The roofs rotate to catch the wind. Some are still used today, although one serves as a tourist center for the island.

Astypalaia "map"

The eight windmills stand along the edge of a plaza with shops and confectioners tavernas and restaurants. Presiding over all of this is the remnants of Querini Castle erected as a defense against pirates when the island was under Venetian control. Citizens lived within the walls for protection, but ultimately built homes outside the walls. The castle itself is derelict and there are no tours, but we did trudge up the steep path and meandered through alleyways to get near the summit affording us a spectacular view of the Aegean.

With a Greek naval vessel anchored far enough off shore we had ouzo and meze at an outdoor hilltop taverna with views of the entire island and the Panorama far below.  

As we made our way back to the square and the windmills our cruise director, Kristina called out to us from a taverna where she was having dinner. She knew I was always looking for craft beers and introduced me to 8 Mills, a session IPA brewed on Astypalaia. The three of us lingered over the beers and yet another ouzo before the trip on the bus back down to the port, the castle illuminated in the gathering night sky.

It was especially sad to leave this beautiful quiet hidden gem.

Janet and I would revisit Astypalaia.

Thanks for reading.

Love, always.

© 2026 Gregory Dunaj

ANOTHER BIRTHDAY?

LET THAT S*T GO…. 

Life is good

I think I’ve reached an age where there are more recollections than aspirations. That’s not a maudlin thought, but rather an observation. What would be sad is to labor over the past and not live the rest of my days in this Garden of Eden with an elan that befits this fine world and this wonderful precious life.

All the things that to us seem to be so dreadfully important today, all the trespasses, all the perceived slights will be forgotten much sooner than we would give them credit.

It’s better to “let it go,” or in the words of Dave Mason, “Let it go, Let it flow.” Or, the old Buddhist tenet: ‘LET THAT SHIT GO.”

Enjoy your day. I am going to do my part today on my birthday.

Love, always

Greg

© 2026 by Gregory Dunaj