VACATIONS FROM HOME: MILOS, GREECE

TIMING IS EVERYTHING
replica Venus de Milo

Had we visited the island of Milos first before all the others on our “Unexplored Greece” excursion with Variety Cruises, we would have been delighted. Afterall, the island has a lot to offer. From history; it was here the famous Venus de Milo statue was discovered; to the hill-top Plaka that is like a Disney-land version of Greek islands; to the lunar landscape beach of Sarakiniko that is carved from ancient lava flows; to a port burgeoning with yachts and cafes and tavernas all filled with tourists from across the world, with many of them having loud conversations where every other word is italicized.

It’s a very popular island and though we were happy to have visited it because of all the aforementioned sights, it was very busy…too busy… We had grown accustomed to relative solitude throughout our cruise and Milos was far from quiet and overwhelmingly touristed. Even Kalymnos, though busy, had a very working-man Greek feel to it and the tavernas at the port were all filled with locals, while Milos was hedging on more a party atmosphere.

We stopped at Milos because of inclement weather that altered our planned itinerary.

I GO SWIMMING

Provatas, Milos

As always, the day started with a chance to swim and Provatas Beach, on the south side of Milos, was perhaps the nicest on our trip so far. Long and sandy with placid refreshing water, there was even a lifeguard. There were little beach bungalows, looking more like garages (which would be explained later on during our tour of the island), were for rent and there was a bar at one end and restaurant a short walk up a hill that had the owner arranging the catch of the day on ice.

Provatas, Milos

WALKING ON THE MOON

There are several notable beaches on Milos, but the most unique was Sarakiniko on the north side of the island. The white volcanic tuff of the area has been described as a lunar landscape.

Sarakiniko, Milos

Once the Panorama was docked at the busy Adamas port, situated on the north side of the large sheltered Ormos Miliou bay, we took an optional tour of Milos.

The first stop was to visit the very popular Sarakiniko Beach. Though blazingly hot with the unrelenting sun beating down, people climb all over the white tuff that has been carved into wild shapes by the wind and weather over time.

The azure blue Aegean was inviting and people would either jump into the water from the rocks or enter the sea by a long narrow niche in the tuff that ends in a small beach.

the "beach" at Sarakiniko, Milos

Descending from the parking lot the niche looks like Sarakiniko was cleaved in two. At the end of this finger of water there is a lifeguard stand and behind them there are caves that can be explored. They were carved into the tuff and used both by pirates as a hideout to ambush passing ships and later, Greeks to store provisions.

Sarakiniko, Milos

cave at Sarakiniko, MIlos

There are no amenities at Sarakiniko once you leave the parking lot. It is a bit of a hike to reach the water. At the parking lot though there is a food truck.

As we were on a tour, we did not have the opportunity to linger at Sarakiniko; we had less than an hour to explore; although other Panorama passengers took a taxi to reach the beach and spent the afternoon there. If you visit remember the sun heats the white tuff making it very hot and there is really no shade. Bring water.

Here is a Google Earth map of Sarakiniko and you can see the long narrow “beach” and surrounding terrain:.GOOGLE EARTH SARAKINIKO

cave at Sarakiniko, Milos

MIGHTY APHRODITE

In 1820 a farmer working his fields discovered the statue called Venus de Milo. Venus is the Roman name for the Greek god of love, Aphrodite. The statue was subsequently spirited off to Paris and has been on display at the Louvre ever since. Our tour of Milos next took us to the exact spot where the statue was found and a little further along was an amphitheater dating from Hellenistic times. Some scholars say the statue was part of a display on the side of the road leading to the amphitheater.

amphitheater with bay and
Klima in the background

From our vantage point we could see the stage, the vast expanse of the bay and a hint of Klima, a little fishing village whose colorful boat houses have been converted into accommodations. Never had the chance to explore Klima though because the tour was moving on to the next location, the Plaka.

Klima

TOO TOO

The Plaka is the capital of Milos and atop a hill overlooking the island and bay. The narrow streets with boutique shops and restaurants with waiters hawking passersby to stop seemed preternaturally too idealistic. It was everything one would expect on a visit to a Greek island, with tourists milling about and waiters scurrying with plates of food and drink, but it seemed “too perfect” if one could be so callous.

It’s difficult to explain, but after flitting through several islands that were quieter and relaxed the Plaka on Milos seemed very aware of itself and this had more a façade than a place where people lived and drank. We were there just less than an hour, and it wasn’t until we were leaving that I finally saw a group of old men and women sitting around the corner from the Plaka kind of hoping no one saw them.

This is not to say we didn’t enjoy our time there. The Plaka is great for catching a sunset, but we didn’t even have time to visit the Sand Museum. The owner there has collected samples from all over the world (sounds like me) and visitors are invited to view some of the sand underneath a Microscope. Sadly, I found out about the Sand Museum only after we left.

Avii, Plaka, Milos

At least we found the Avli Milos Taverna where they serve a beer brewed specifically for them.

AVLI-MILOS, PLAKA

bay view from the Plaka, Milos

ADAMAS / WE KNOW BETTER

In the main port there are countless shops and tavernas and restaurants. We had dinner in a crowded street-side taverna. Filled with everyone from everywhere we shared a Greek salad and Souvlaki. Tour buses rambled by, trust-fund kids chattered away as we ate in silence and soon thereafter made for the relative quiet of the Panorama. Adamas was too busy, and yet this was the “off-season” in June.

Again, if this were the first stop on our adventure, we would have been very happy. We knew better though. We were thankful to have visited Milos, but it was time to move on.

Maybe I’ll go back someday…just to go to the Sand Museum.

You should go too.

Thanks for reading.

Love Janet and greg