Tuesday, July 15, 2014

THE GATHERING PLACE

Kaena Point Surf
KAENA POINT
We spent the day near Waialua, rising with the cacophony of birds outside our window. The house we are renting is across from Aweoweo Beach Park. We could see waves breaking beyond the palms from the lanai. The summit of Mount Ka’ala at 4,025 feet was shrouded in clouds, but the ridge that juts out into the Pacific forming the westernmost edge of Oahu was brilliant in the morning sun. It is called Kaena Point and considered by ancient Hawaiians as the “jumping off” place to meet their ancestors. It is a remote area, accessible only by a rough unpaved road after Farrington Highway ends a few miles past Dillingham Airfield. For years I’ve marveled at the forbidden looking Kaena Point from places like Sunset Beach and Haliewa Town and never thought I would get there. It looked like the end of the world. In fact this entire trip to Oahu has been filled with new adventures for me for I have never traveled as far west on Oahu as Waialua and the beauty that lay beyond.

This whole area is called “country” by the people of Oahu and it certainly is very rural here. We’re staying in a little development with a cluster of homes near the shore, but soon there is nothing but the road, the ocean and the ominous ridge that ends with Kaena Point. It is just under seven miles from our place in Waialua to the end of the Farrington Road. In fact our hosts said some previous guests stayed with them just so they could be closer to the hiking trails of Kaena Point. It is possible to drive a four-wheel vehicle around, but it is very rough going. A lot walk the 2.5 miles to the tip, where during the winter waves have been known to swell upwards to 50 feet.


We left Au Street and turned onto Waialua Beach Road, which eventually narrowed down to Crozier Drive, and we passed some incredible homes on spectacular lots right on the water, before turning onto Farrington Highway and going to the end. We sighed at every homestead and dreamed, but knew we could never afford to live here; don’t worry we asked and were shocked at the prices.
Kaena Point road
Farrington Road is very isolated. There were a number of ranches, a polo field right on the ocean and a small grouping of homes, but after the Dillingham Airfield there was nothing but windswept views of the Pacific. Here the ridge of Kaena Point nears the road, glowering, huge, its surface gullied and raw. Appropriately, the paved road ends and the untamed track is menacing. We only walked about one mile on the pitched, furrowed road. A couple of four wheelers weaving around huge depressions passed us and we met a number of hikers with walking sticks hats and supplies. We were not as prepared as the hikers; it is highly recommended you bring water if you are going to seriously head out to the point. This is raw land. There are only a few coves with any sand. Mostly the angry waves here crash against volcanic rock. There is no place to swim, although a few people pitched tents and brought in campers to make it a day of near isolation.
near Dillingham Airfield
We drove back to a sandy area right off Farrington Road, right near the end of Dillingham Airfield for some sand gravity. There are no bathrooms at all here and just a few natives and toursits relaxing on this Friday afternoon. The water was clear and surprisingly cool and it got very deep a few feet from the surf line. Dillingham Airfield is a military facility, once integral during WW2, but now mostly used by gliders riding the ridge lift currents off Kaena Point and skydivers, although we also watched a military helicopter land. Gliders sometimes flew directly over us on their landing approach. It is a beautiful spot. The official name for the ridge behind us is Kuaokala Forest Reserve and if so inclined the Kealia Trail begins near Dillingham to get you up onto the ridge. 
a neccesity
Popular with windsurfers is Mokuleia Beach Park and we stopped to watch these skilled riders flit along the waves, including a local eccentric named “Top Hat” who wears a top hat as he skirts the waves. Our hosts, Kristin and Billy thinks he’s a trust fund baby because surfing is all he does. What luck Mr. Top Hat walked by us and said hello!

Another place that we did not sadly visit was Makaleha Beach Park/Polo Beach Public Access Path. It wasn’t until later that we learned it was perhaps “clothing optional”. There are no official nude beaches on Oahu, so it’s a proceed-at-your-own-risk endeavor. I understand there is a clothing optional place on Maui called Little Beach.
TOP HAT
We spent our last night in Oahu with our hosts and a gathering of their friends for a communal BBQ in the little courtyard of their homes. With the sky afire with the vibrant sunset colors of another successful day in paradise we drank wine and mingled and petted dogs. One friend was a Hawaiian native, everyone else was white. Eric and I spoke for a long while. He actually lived on the 9th “unofficial Hawaiian Island”, Las Vegas, for 13 years. Evidently a lot of Hawaiian natives, lured by the lower cost of living and job prospects gravitate to Vegas, but the allure of Hawaii was too strong to ignore and he eventually had to return with his wife. I envy him.
Honey! I'm home....


I have visited Oahu more than the other islands and on this short three day trip I have had so many new experiences and this little party was the highlight. Appropriately Oahu is nicknamed the Gathering Place probably because of the endeavors of King Kamehameha in the 1800's to unify the islands, but I like to think the name comes from nights like this, where serenity and friendship are all that matters. I hope that I never lose this Aloha Spirit.


Mahalo 
Janet and greg

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