ESP

Eastern State Penitentiary

A Christmas gift from Janet’s daughter and son-in-law had Team VFH going to prison recently, and we liked it. In Philadelphia’s now gentrified Fairmount section, Eastern State Penitentiary operated as a prison from 1829 to 1971. After closing it was left in a derelict and moldering state until it was saved from destruction and use as a commercial space and tours began in the late 80’s. Eastern State Penitentiary is now a National Historical Landmark.

the Eye of God at ESP

THE PENNSYLVANIA WAY

When it opened ESP was the most expensive building in the country, with running water and a flush toilet in every cell. It was also the first institution that sought to rehabilitate inmates by placing them in separate cells and severely limiting their contact with others. This revolutionary idea of solitary confinement was meant to induce regret and penitence in the inmates for their crimes and not simply be a punishment. Each cell was lighted by the “Eye of God”, a portal that meant to inspire reverence. Indeed there is a church-like feel throughout the prison and while going on the self-guided audio tour people spoke quietly if at all. It is a scary ominous place and given the rapidly upcoming neighborhood of Fairmount, this neo-gothic edifice looms with a menacing starkness. A chill ran through me as I entered this feral place, so different from the world beyond the walls!  

The “Pennsylvania System” was adopted by hundreds of prisons around the world.

THAT’S WHERE THE MONEY IS

Subject to availability, tickets cost $14 for adults and it includes a self-guided audio tour narrated by Steven Buscemi. There are also guides throughout the prison to answer questions. One can stroll through most of the prison but several areas are cordoned off and have been left in their derelict and crumbling state.

Among the “highlights” of visiting the prison is the cell of Al Capone and the tunnel that was dug under the wall for an escape involving, among others, the bank robber Willie Sutton. Once Sutton was asked why he robbed banks and he said “that’s where the money is.”

VISITING EASTERN STATE PENITENTIARY

LET THEM EAT TASTYCAKES

People have reported seeing ghosts at ESP and the Halloween season is a very popular time to visit the grounds. Called, “Terror Behind the Walls,” it turns ESP into one very large haunted mansion. Prices are more expensive for the right to have the bejesus scared out of you. …. No thanks….

On July 16^th, Bastille Day will be celebrated at the prison. The storming of the Bastille as well as the entire French Revolution will be re-enacted with tongue-in-cheek humor in an hour long presentation culminating with Marie Antoinette throwing Tastycakes down onto the gathered hordes!

BASTILLE DAY AT ESP 

LET THEM DRINK BEER

Regular readers of this column know that Philadelphia is a vast mecca for beer, and if thirsty after your visit there are several places to drink. Here are a few:

The Belgian Café.  Just a block away from the prison on 21^ST and Green offering a great selection of Belgian beer

THE BELGIAN CAFE WEBSITE

Rembrandt’s. Featuring an ornate wooden bar on 23^rd Street

REMBRANDT'S WEBSITE

The Fairmount section of the city is becoming a beautiful area again. Where you go to enjoy your adult libation really depends on how far you want to walk, there are so many to choose to visit. Street parking is relatively easy to find, although there is a pay lot across the street from ESP.

YOU LIGHT UP MY LIFE

"I want to get you on a slow boat to China...."

So, sometimes Team VFH works independently to come up with solutions to an approaching weekend. Ideas about what to do or where to go are bounced around between us, but usually Janet wins. I joke here, because it’s never considered a “win”, but a great idea. Janet is the true brains behind this intrepid traveling duo. She loves doing the research and when she plans the day/trip she has every detail figured out from what we are doing, where we are drinking and eating and even where we are to park.

Now, at times I may feel strongly about something else and she kindly allows me to counter with different opinions, but only for a while. When she tires of my machinations and rolls that evil eye at me I have learned to stop and say “yes Dear,” if only out of self-preservation.

Hmmm… “yes Dear,” is the phrase every man needs to remember and utter often for a myriad of reasons.

Well the “yes dear” meter was peaking this past weekend as Janet decided on something called the Philadelphia Chinese Lantern Festival.  Located at Franklin Square, a small park at the very foot of the Ben Franklin Bridge, the festival runs through June 12^th. This is the final weekend. The hours are 6 pm to 10 pm and until 11 pm on the weekends. The 8 acre park is transformed nightly into a different world of colorfully lighted lanterns and displays. There are also artisans, food, a beer garden lighted by an incredible 300 foot fire breathing dragon and a stage featuring live entertainment like balancing acts and music. At first I thought it would be a hokey time, I normally would not consider attending something like this, but it was a very pleasing evening. We went Saturday night and though the festival was crowded we never felt rushed or crammed. We were able to linger over displays and stroll along leisurely.. The price is $17 for adults and $12 for kids 17 and under. Janet took several pictures at this family friendly event.   

Buy your tickets here: CHINESE LANTERN FESTIVAL

 

DRAGON BEER GARDEN

PEKING DUCK

The lines for food were very long on the festival grounds, so I would recommend that you eat before you enter. Philadelphia’s Chinatown is just a few blocks away. We ate at Sang Kee Peking Duck House on the corner of 9^th and Winter. The festival entrance is on 6^th and Race. We had the Peking Duck meal for two at $43 and each a “jar” of warm sake at $7 each. The Peking duck skin was delightfully crispy and the meat tender. Janet doesn't normally eat Chinese food, but Sang Kee is an exception. Janet found this place! Cash only. Sang Kee is very popular. Prepare to wait.  SANG KEE PEKING DUCK

PARKING

It turns out that after 5pm  the cost to park at the National Constitution center drops to just $5. The entrance is on the 5^th Street or the N Independence Mall side. As pedestrians you emerge on 6^th Street and just a block away from the festival. Park at 5 and either spend your time walking around the Independence Mall or get something to eat before you head into the festival…. And make sure you thank Janet for ALL this information. Tell her "yes Dear" for me!