Eastern
State Penitentiary
A
Christmas gift from Janet’s daughter and son-in-law had Team VFH going to
prison recently, and we liked it. In Philadelphia’s now gentrified Fairmount
section, Eastern State Penitentiary operated as a prison from 1829 to 1971. After
closing it was left in a derelict and moldering state until it was saved from
destruction and use as a commercial space and tours began in the late 80’s.
Eastern State Penitentiary is now a National Historical Landmark.
 |
| the Eye of God at ESP |
THE
PENNSYLVANIA WAY
When
it opened ESP was the most expensive building in the country, with running
water and a flush toilet in every cell. It was also the first institution that sought to
rehabilitate inmates by placing them in separate cells and severely limiting their contact with others. This revolutionary idea of solitary confinement was
meant to induce regret and penitence in the inmates for their crimes and not simply be a punishment. Each cell was lighted by the “Eye of God”, a portal that meant to
inspire reverence. Indeed there is a church-like feel throughout the prison and while going on the self-guided audio tour people spoke quietly if at all. It
is a scary ominous place and given the rapidly upcoming neighborhood of
Fairmount, this neo-gothic edifice looms with a menacing starkness. A chill ran through me as I entered this feral place, so different from the world beyond the walls!
The “Pennsylvania
System” was adopted by hundreds of prisons around the world.
THAT’S
WHERE THE MONEY IS
Subject
to availability, tickets cost $14 for adults and it includes a self-guided
audio tour narrated by Steven Buscemi. There are also guides throughout the
prison to answer questions. One can stroll through most of the prison but
several areas are cordoned off and have been left in their derelict and crumbling state.
Among
the “highlights” of visiting the prison is the cell of Al Capone and the tunnel
that was dug under the wall for an escape involving, among others, the bank
robber Willie Sutton. Once Sutton was asked why he robbed banks and he said “that’s
where the money is.”
LET
THEM EAT TASTYCAKES
People
have reported seeing ghosts at ESP and the Halloween season is a very popular
time to visit the grounds. Called, “Terror Behind the Walls,” it turns ESP into
one very large haunted mansion. Prices are more expensive for the right to have
the bejesus scared out of you. …. No thanks….
On
July 16th, Bastille Day will be celebrated at the prison. The
storming of the Bastille as well as the entire French Revolution will be re-enacted
with tongue-in-cheek humor in an hour long presentation culminating with Marie
Antoinette throwing Tastycakes down onto the gathered hordes!
LET
THEM DRINK BEER
Regular
readers of this column know that Philadelphia is a vast mecca for beer, and if
thirsty after your visit there are several places to drink. Here are a few:
The Belgian
Café. Just a block away from the prison
on 21ST and Green offering a great selection of Belgian beer
Rembrandt’s.
Featuring an ornate wooden bar on 23rd Street
The
Fairmount section of the city is becoming a beautiful area again. Where you go to enjoy your adult libation really depends on how far you want to walk, there are so many to choose to visit. Street parking
is relatively easy to find, although there is a pay lot across the street from
ESP.
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