PINE CREEK GORGE
Our
recent trip to North Central Pennsylvania was a rustic adventure, but without
all that camping nonsense. We stayed in a hotel in Coudersport for the first
part of the week and then stayed at Le Belle Auberge, a boutique bed and
breakfast in Wellsboro. Planning the trip, we did not even consider camping and
this proved to be the correct decision because it rained nearly the entire week.
Getting drenched while living in a tent is not fun. especially when there are
no hot showers and no respite from the bad weather. All you can do is sit in
your tent and molder.
Despite
the inclement weather we did spend a goodly amount of time outdoors. Though our
stargazing efforts were “clouded” over, the rain abated enough during the day
for us to see the Kinzua Bridge and at the Lumber Museum we were able to
explore the outdoor replication of a timber harvesting camp without getting too "waterlogged".
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| The Pine Creek Rail Trail can be seen on the lower right |
A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT
We had
traveled to this “neck of the woods” for stargazing at Cherry Springs State
Park the only dark sky park on the east coast and that was a bust. I had never
seen the Milky Way before and had the weather cooperated I would have been
blessed by this galactic vision. Thankfully the second half of our trip was
more successful.
For years
Janet had talked about the Grand Canyon of Pennsylvania, a 47-mile cut through
the Allegheny Mountains formed by the Pine Creek, a tributary of the mighty
Susquehanna River. She had never seen this natural treasure before and was
anxious to show me what was perhaps the best part of Pennsylvania. The canyon
is impressive when seen from any angle. On the floor the steep canyon walls
dwarf you, from the edge the vistas reveal unsettling expanses of air. At its
deepest the canyon is 1,500 feet and at one point is nearly a mile wide. It
starts in Ansonia near Wellsboro and ends in Jersey Shore, Pennsylvania.
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| Pine Creek Rail Trail |
Once
denuded of trees because of an aggressive timber industry 100 years ago, the
splendor of these woodlands is back and can be appreciated many different ways any time
of the year. Hiking trails course the gorge and there is a scenic overlook at Leonard
Harrison State Park Visitor Center that rewards a casual stroller with a spectacular
view of the canyon. Cascading waterfalls all along the gorge cool the air in
the summer heat. There is canoeing and kayaking on the Pine Creek, swollen from
the steady rains, but the most popular pastime is the Pine Creek Rail Trail; a
converted railway bed that was once used in the lumber industry along the
canyon floor and following the creek. Excellent for biking with just a gentle
grade we rented bikes and pedaled through the canyon for 28 miles!
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| Pine Creek Rail Trail |
RAIL TO TRAIL
There is
a movement nationwide to take disused train beds and form trails. Usually flat,
long and at times running through historical areas abandoned rail beds make for
great trails. The rail system through the Pine Creek Gorge was first used for
transporting timber and coal then freight and passengers, the tracks following
the creek along the floor of the Grand Canyon. The trains ran until 1988 when
they were abandoned by Conrail. The tracks were eventually removed and the Pine
Creek Rail Trail opened in 1996. It’s possible to travel the entire 47 miles of
the Grand Canyon by this trail.
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| One of the many falls |
Because it
is relatively flat and the views are strikingly beautiful, the Pine Creek Rail
Trail is perhaps one of the greatest places to take a bike tour. Though it is possible
to travel the entire 47 miles from Ansonia to Jersey Shore via the trail, but
we stopped at State Run.
Thankfully the day was bright and sunny. It was hot in the sun, but much of the trail is shaded and whenever we passed a waterfall running fiercely with all the rain, the air cooled dramatically. The Pine Creek was running muddy and quick and we didn't see any canoes kayaks or rafts, but there were a lot of bikers along the trail.
Every few miles there are rest stations and several wells to pump water. The wells unfortunately carried the caveat that the water was not tested for purity. Still they were convenient to wet a cloth to cool our heads. In Blackwell, the first stop there is a small delicatessen where we got some much-deserved ice cream.
Thankfully the day was bright and sunny. It was hot in the sun, but much of the trail is shaded and whenever we passed a waterfall running fiercely with all the rain, the air cooled dramatically. The Pine Creek was running muddy and quick and we didn't see any canoes kayaks or rafts, but there were a lot of bikers along the trail.
Every few miles there are rest stations and several wells to pump water. The wells unfortunately carried the caveat that the water was not tested for purity. Still they were convenient to wet a cloth to cool our heads. In Blackwell, the first stop there is a small delicatessen where we got some much-deserved ice cream.
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| Janet waiting for me, again |
By the end of our excursion I was bushed. Janet would have gone all the way to Jersey Shore... in NEW JERSEY... but after 28 miles on a bike my butt was hurting. We waited for our pick-up ride at the Hotel Manor & Bar in State Run and sat on deck with a beer admiring the river. The day was a success!
OUTFITTERS
We rented
our bikes at PINE CREEK OUTFITTERS on
Route 6 in Ansonia, a short drive west from Wellsboro. They also offer canoe
and kayak rentals and guided rafting trips down the Pine Creek and they will
even provide shuttle service with your own bikes, at a cost. We had to meet
them at an appointed time for either a pick up in Blackwell, or State Run. A
friendly staff, offering good equipment and encouragement. When we told them we
were taking the longer trek to State Run they seemed genuinely pleased.
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| At the end of the ride |
Thanks for reading!
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