SHOPPING SPREE

ST JOHN’S ANTIGUA       

I finally got a glimpse of Antigua on our final day. We had traveled to this lesser Antilles island for the all-inclusive, adults only, couples only Sandals Grande Antigua for a casual week of lolling about the resort. Our only getaways “off campus” were the scuba diving which did take a good portion of many mornings and a number of afternoons. Early on we opted for the diving and decided against sight-seeing around the island. Available excursions though included zip lining through the forest, horse riding along the beach and 4x4 tours around the island, all at an additional cost. With the diving taking a large part of our days we would have spent little time comparatively at the resort if we did explore, leaving us less time to drink free rum drinks!

Flag of Antigua & Barbuda

WHAT’S WRONG WITH THIS PICTURE?

The final full day though Janet went on a morning dive of a depth for which I was not yet certified and I could not go. I actually was fine with this and caught a ride into St. John’s the capital of the nation of Antigua and Barbuda for a quick run around shopping spree and to get the feeling of the island off the resort.

  

CANE vs BEACH

In the 1950’s the once thriving sugar cane industry on Antigua, dating back to the 1600’s was foundering, but the economy soon became tied to tourism. During the plantation days of sugar cane all commerce was inland and the two ports of the island, St. John’s and Falmouth, were heavily fortified by the British to protect their interests from the French and marauding Caribbean pirates. When Antigua and Barbuda gained their independence from the United Kingdom in the early 80’s the move towards tourism was already in full swing.

Everything is now along the gleaming coast. That’s where all the new roads, marinas, villas and buildings are located. Venture away from the bustle of the touristed white sands and coral reefs and the interior is quiet, the roads devolve to rutted tracks. If so inclined, one can tour the relics of once proud plantations like Betty’s Hope, the first large-scale sugar cane plantation on Antigua. Started around 1650 Betty’s Hope first used wind mills to extract sugar cane juice and eventually moving to steam engines.

BETTY'S HOPE SUGAR PLANTATION

If so inclined, one can venture to the only clothing optional beach on Antigua, Hawksbill Bay, just a short ride from the harbor at St. John’s, the main port of entry today on the island.

If so inclined, one can take a Segway tour along some beach or ride horses. I had half a day so I went shopping.

ST. JOHN'S ANTIGUA 

CRUISE SHIPS
ST JOHN'S

FLEET’S IN!

St. John’s is really just a mile or two from Sandals, but I got a mini-van arranged through the resort. If I were really, really, cheap, I could have walked it, but the $15 USD seemed worth it. The van left the resort around 10 am and was to return by 12:30, so it was just a quick trip into the port area. I shared the ride with a young couple from Texas. It was their second trip in two years to this same Sandals. They headed straight to the casino while I melted into the tumult of the colorful Heritage Quay. Two massive cruise ships were docked in the port and her patrons had spilled out into the duty-free shopping area. Local men with placards offering taxi rides waited for a willing nod. Some Antiguans tried to steer people into restaurants and shops, but it was very understated, despite the commotion.  Cops were everywhere. Antigua is generally considered a safe place, but the police presence was still greatly appreciated.

There were a fair amount of little shops and kiosks offering everything from sundries, liquor, trinkets and clothing. I headed for a cigar shop. I asked a cop where the tobacconist was and he walked me up the stairs of the little mall and straight to the door.

SUCCESS! BOOKS!

KEEPING A TRADITION

In my travels for work I often sought out children's books from the country I was visiting, giving my kids a glimpse of this vast world that lies beyond their little town. While waiting for the bus I spoke with a Sandals staff member about a young author from Antigua, Deshawn J. Browne, who had written a book at 12 and that book, “The Little Rude Boys/Girls”, was now a movie, opening after we returned home. The book is about a mischievous boy being raised by his grandmother.  I had to keep my little tradition going for the grandchildren. Apart from the t-shirts for our grandchildren, I looked for that book but to no avail. I had to settle for a few books about talking parrots and pirates who were softies also written by Antiguans.

12 YEAR OLD ANTIGUA AUTHOR

BONGO BUCKS

Janet calls the Eastern Caribbean Dollar, the currency used throughout the Organization of Eastern Caribbean States (OECS), Bongo Bucks.  Perhaps it’s because an EC$ is worth .37 cents to the USD. Colorful bills with Queen Elizabeth II dodging fish and turtles come out of the atm’s at the banks in town. I had no American dollars and had to withdraw money. Thinking $60 was enough I quickly learned from my first purchase, a colorful children’s book on Antiguan history wasn’t nearly enough. The book was $66 Bongos… They waved the 6 EC$. I found that a lot if I paid with the Eastern Caribbean Dollar; if it’s close enough to the posted price the proprietors waved the balance.

The independent states that use the EC$ are Antigua and Barbuda, Dominica, Genada, Saint Kitts and Nevis, Saint Lucia, and Saint Vincent and the Grenadines. Two other British overseas territories, Anguilla and Montserrat also use the Eastern Caribbean dollar.

BTW the shops at in St. John’s will gleefully take U.S. Dollars as well as Bongo Bucks.

AQUAMAN

UNDER THE SEA

The first and only time I went scuba diving was 12 years ago while on a Windjammer Barefoot Cruise through the Genadines. This small fleet of majestic wooden sailing ships are long gone, but the memories of that dive are strong. Some lads from Bequia with diving gear met the boat, gave us a quick lesson on how to use the regulator, the breathing apparatus that makes scuba diving so relatively easy compared to snorkeling, and they threw us in the water. We were told to breathe slowly and deeply and relax. It was easy for me even though I didn’t have a clue what I was doing, but the water was warm and visibility was forever. Never getting deeper than 20 feet we slowly made our way through the crystal water for about 30 minutes. I was awestruck by the beauty and the freedom I felt as I slowly swam in this new world. I saw a Manta Ray that had buried itself in the sand flit away when I neared it. I saw a little fish look at me astonished when I swam over his hiding spot inside a sponge.

BEQUIA 

WINDJAMMER BAREFOOT
CRUISE

It was joyous and I have to thank Janet for it. She’s a PADI (Professional Association of Diving Instructors) certified OPEN WATER diver, which means she can go very deep. On that trip long ago, she urged me to go out of my comfort zone to try this incredible sport. Reason #17 why she’s a wonderful wife.

PADI 

Sadly, that was the only time we went scuba diving, until our recent trip to the all-inclusive, Adults only, couples only, Sandals Grande Antigua resort. Scuba diving was included in our stay along with all the gear, tanks, a dive boat and a dive master. Along with various other activities like Hobie Cats, snorkeling and paddle boards, the water sports at Sandals was an alluring draw.

As I was not certified and Janet wanted a refresher class, we intended to take a quick on-resort course that for a nominal fee would allow us to dive once a day while at Sandals, but I quickly opted to take a full-blown course that would certify me as a Scuba diver, which would be a lifetime achievement. The dive shop at Sandals was able to look up Janet’s Open Water certification from the eighties which made my decision, although costly at over $400, an easy one to make.

WALKING BEFORE RUNNING

I ran my first marathon with no appreciable training. I was 29 and buoyed by youthful enthusiasm and fueled by adrenalin I finished my first race, the Marine Corps Marathon, in 3:59:30, shouting “I f*cking did it” to the gathered Grunts greeting me in the chute. They hooted and hollered with me! I completed this great task just on sheer will.

                                                                                                          

I also didn’t walk correctly for about a month afterwards.

I eventually got to a PR of 3:35, but after that first race, I respected the enormity of the event and did not take it lightly. I trained properly and never hurt myself again. I learned to listen to my body and press when possible or ease off whenever necessary.

MARINE CORPS MARATHON 

JANET TAKING THE PLUNGE

NEVER HOLD YOUR BREATH!

I could liken that first dive to my first marathon. Fueled by adrenaline and a natural exuberance I was fearless and enjoyed the time, not realizing any of the inherent dangers that come with diving. When I went for my certification at Sandals Grande Antigua it was a sobering, eye-opening experience. Yes, the training included how to use the regulator, as the lads from Bequia had long ago, but the main course was what to do in various scenarios, like reading hand signals from the dive master, like sharing your regulator with a dive buddy in need, like monitoring your depth and how much available air you have with an SPG, like using a BCD vest in an attempt to achieve neutral buoyancy, like clearing your mask underwater and breathing without it for a while, like making an emergency ascent if you’ve run out of air, like pausing at a safety stop for three minutes while ascending as a prudent move against lung over expansion and decompression sickness.

Oh, my word, my head was spinning throughout. Though it’s a beautiful sport, it comes with a whole lotta rules and listed above is just a small sample of the necessary steps to certification. With running, you just have to make sure your shoes are tied and you drink fluids… and you do have to train.

LIONFISH

If you decide to travel to Sandals Grande Antigua and get certified, ask for my instructor Mr. Ivense George. I can’t afford to travel him around to be my personal dive master, but we will be happy to help you. He was calming and patient whenever I got skittish; this can be a strenuous activity after all. He sought out a Lionfish to show us when I had expressed an interest in seeing this invasive fish. He guided me throughout the process of getting certified as a Scuba Diver and I could not have done it without him. 

DIVE SPOTS SANDALS ANTIGUA

Now the next step is to get Open Water certification so I can dive like Janet to deeper waters.

SANDALS SCUBA

Thanks for reading. Merry Christmas everyone. 
love, Janet and greg

THE BEACH IS JUST THE BEGINNING

HONEYMOONING ON ANTIGUA

How many honeymoons can one couple endure?

You would think that since Team VFH lingered in Florida for a number of days after our September wedding we could and should have considered that glorious time as a honeymoon. I mean, two birds, one stone correct? (sorry PETA)

Ha….. NO…

The wife had other and MUCH better ideas.

Instead we honeymooned at the Sandals Grande Resort in Antigua for a costly but lovely week-long sojourn into decadence. This is not a decadence of debauchery or depravity though, but one of luxury and pampering. Sandals is an all-inclusive, ADULTS ONLY, COUPLES ONLY collection of Caribbean resorts. There are 16 scattered across the islands, and what makes this Jamaican-based company so appealing is its attention to details. Our time at Sandals was relaxed and romantic. From the manicured grounds to the picturesque sands of Dickenson’s Bay, perhaps Antigua’s most beautiful beach. to a spacious room with a full bar replenished daily, this trip had been wonderful way to ease into married life!

VACATIONING NOT TRAVELING

I can only speak for Sandals Antigua, but I had found the experience unexpectedly delightful. I had never considered an all-inclusive resort before, and have never traveled to a foreign land just so I could loll about at the resort, but Janet insisted on it for this honeymoon. It turned out to be a week-long floating whimsical trip. Our only concern while at Sandals Grande Antigua had been where to eat or what to order for room service, and what rum drink to order from the swim-up bar. Yes, this was a vacation, not a traveling adventure, something I’ve never done before, but I got used to this new approach to traveling pretty quickly…by the second drink on the first day.

There are 11 restaurants and 7 bars scattered around Sandals Antigua. Food ranges from sushi to seafood, Caribbean to French to Italian to Tex Mex…and a British pub. The only extra cost to any meal was if we wanted something other than the house wine, but drinks, extra appetizers, even extra entrees are all included.

There are pools everywhere, two with swim-up bars. There are highly prized chaise lounges at the pools and on the beach with some folks showing up super early in the day to “claim” their perch either by the pool or the beach, but we were always able to get a chaise lounge no matter what time we showed up. The brilliant turquoise water of Dickenson’s Bay is as picturesque as it is warm and placid. The sand is a fine soft tan powder. With the tranquil grounds and the catering, and incessant flow of food and drink there was really no reason to explore the island, although there were several off-campus tours available to us; things like 4x4 tours of Antigua, zip-line excursions and a visit to a rum distillery; albeit for an extra cost.

LUXURY, CLUB, BUTLER

Normally I would love to explore a new place, but with the size and the comfort level of Sandals, there was really no reason to leave the campus. There are three levels of accommodations available at all Sandals; Luxury, Club and Butler. All have their merits. Janet briefly considered a Butler, but the cost was exorbitant. The allure of someone taking care of our needs for the day, like scoring us a cabana or a martini, wasn’t that strong. Besides, even at the lowest tier of accommodations, Luxury, there still is an incessant flow of food and liquor. Yeah, at the Luxury level you don’t have a personal butler so you get your steps in by having to pad over to a bar to order yourself a drink. Often times though while we were lounging on the beach or poolside someone from Sandals would, unsolicited, offer to fetch us a drink or a new towel. 

At the Luxury level of accommodations wi-fi is at a nominal cost and there’s no hard liquor available in the room’s refrigerator, just beer and wine.

We got a Club level room, on the ground floor with a walk out balcony. With no ocean view the price was a bit lower, but the convenience of being able to walk out the back way was very pleasant. (We never got the hang of properly locking the patio door.)

At our Club level, we had a concierge service which we barely used, and room service, which we used once. Our mini bar had an array of full bottles of liquors like scotch, vodka, gin and rum, champagne, red and white wine and beer. I drank some beers, and had a sip of rum, just to say I tried it, but we never opened the wine or the champagne which was left for us as part of our honeymoon package. To put a dent in the liquor in our room, we would have had to stay indoors for the entire week. Yeah, I know it’s a honeymoon, but we’re old folks. Anyway, we had free wi-fi, bathrobes and we were invited to a number of Club level events like cocktail parties which we never attended. The staff would call us every once in a while, to ask us if everything was okay….

WHY NOT?

Attention to details is what makes Sandals so appealing. From the champagne greeting on our arrival to the nightly “misting” that combats mosquitos etc., the incessant job of sweeping sand off the walkways, the grooming of the beach and even to the quiet leaf-blowers the staff use on the grounds to the security guards that understatedly guard the property make the whole experience secure.  

‘Why not,’ is the typical response whatever our request, whether it was ordering two appetizers, or a second (or third) helping of sushi, or another lobster tail at dinner or a double shot latte at the Café de Paris or requesting the Don Julio Gold Tequila for my margarita. The economy of Antigua & Barbuda is directly tied to tourism, having shuttered many sugar cane fields and rum distilleries when the country gained independence from England in the eighties, but this is no forced joy in the people. All are friendly and affable, greeting us with wide smiles and a sense of pride in their work. It was truly a joy to be at Sandals Grande Antigua. 

OUR PATIO VIEW AT SANDALS

Overall the Sandals experience was overwhelmingly positive for us, so much so, we have decided to try another Sandals, this time in the Bahamas.  

SANDALS GRANDE ANTIGUA