TRPANJ

JUST LIKE I PICTURED IT

After the Sarajevo Winter Olympics in 1984 and our work with ABC television was finished, my Yugoslavian co-worker, Zeljko, and his girlfriend Hana, decided to show me some of their beautiful country. We traveled from Sarajevo to the coast driving through the mountainous terrain of Bosnia I Herzegovina. We visited the destroyed Neretva River railroad bridge whose destruction during WWII in a battle between Yugoslav Partisans and Axis forces was recreated for a movie commemorating the event. We heard the call of the imams from scattered minarets calling the faithful to prayer. We visited the town of Mostar and admired the Stari Most, or Old Bridge. First constructed in the 1500’s the soaring beautiful structure was at the time of its completion the widest man-made arch in the world.

BRIDGE OVER THE NERETVA

We eventually reached the Peljesac Peninsula. We didn’t take the ferry but drove from Mali Ston. After stopping to buy some homemade wine at a farmhouse we finally reached Zeljko’s summer home in Trpanj. It was mid-March though and it was cold and Trpanj was empty and dreary. During the high season the town is vibrant and alive, but there are fewer than one thousand year-round residents. I remember all the restaurants in town were closed and the shelves in the market were empty. But his modest house was fascinating and inviting and had incredible views of the Adriatic. It was a nice trip that late winter trip, but returning this past July was a completely different experience.

 

STARI MOST, MOSTAR

YOU CAN GET THERE FROM HERE

The house was built by Zeljko and his father over the years. Perched on a steep incline on the rugged Peljesac coast, the house, especially the topmost floor, has a clear view of the invitingly blue waters of the Adriatic Sea. Across the bay is the equally rugged Croatian coast and to the left the island of Hvar gracefully dives into the water after its 42 miles and a galaxy away from the revelry of Hvar City. From this sunny perch you can see the ferries that make Trpanj a transit point from the mainland as well as a summer destination. From Trpanj one can travel across the peninsula and get another ferry in Orebic to cross over to Korcula and from there travel to Mljet and Hvar city and Brac. Each of these islands we visited via the Unforgettable Croatia cruise line earlier on this three-week adventure in Croatia.

 

TRPANJ AT SUNSET

Our week in Trpanj was so very different than our travels the first two weeks in Croatia. Rather than tourists we were now residents, living here with good friends. Although we did take a few side trips and went out to dinner a couple of times, most of our time in Trpanj was hanging around the house, swimming in the Adriatic, tooling around in Zeljko’s little motor boat visiting nearby beaches and coves, and reminiscing over all the time that had passed since we last met. Of course, Janet learned how to curse in Croatian, between sips of wine, much to the delight of our hosts.

 

ZELJKO'S HOME IN TRPANJ

Their house is on an impossibly narrow road, about a mile from the town’s center and the harbor where the ferry docks. This little road, with houses like Zeljko’s lining both sides, dead ends about a quarter mile past his place where there is a small rocky beach with enough room to stretch out a mat to bask in the sun. Zeljko keeps his little motor boat here.

Our days in Trpanj were simple and relaxing. Each morning we strolled into town to take coffee at the Buffet Zalo on the quay and from the little tables watch the world slowly pass. There was always a constant stream of people strolling the quay to watch, or the moored bobbing boats held our interest. Nearby, Pozora Beach, in front of the Faraon Hotel was forever crowded and when the cars began to line up to await the ferry along Ulica Kralja Tomislava there was a lot of bustle. Market shelves were filled and after coffee we would go to different places to buy our produce or bread or meat or chocolate for the day. Often, we would fill gallon jugs with red or white wine at one of two winery stores located in town for $8.00 The peninsula is renowned for its wine, especially Dingac and Postup. Along Tomislava there were several touristy stores brimming tacky souvenirs like toys and t-shirts catering to the families that lined up along the road to await the ferry.  

PATIO IN TRPANJ

Hana and Zeljko did a lot of cooking for us. Zeljko was proud of his bbq pit that he built himself. On the top floor patio, he grilled whole fish one night. Another night he made a Peka of beef and lamb another, and another night he made more cevapcici a man could ever eat in a lifetime. Peka is a method of cooking in Croatia in a fireplace where a metal dome is placed over the meal and coals on top of that to slow cook the ingredients. We had a few Peka meals during our travels in Croatia, but Zeljko was very proud of his fireplace and Peka dome that he was using for the first time with us.

 

A BOY AND HIS PEKA

We also went out for dinner a few times. We had pizza one night at Pizza Veslo that is right at the ferry landing and a great view of the sunset. Veslo means oar in Croatian, a nod to the fishing industry that was once very important to Trpanj. It was at Veslo we observed a very peculiar habit of our hosts, they all put ketchup on their pizza as readily as we would put garlic on ours.

We treated them to a meal at Konoba Trpanj, run by Mato Nesonovic. Hana said it was the best restaurant in Trpanj, and how could we disagree. Served family style we shared a massive array of seafood and several bottles of local wine.

 

AT SAINTS HILLS

One night we took them to the Saints Hills winery for a tasting and a dish of Balkan meats and cheeses. Set in an old stone house with lovely views of the valley Saints Hills was and elegant yet surprisingly inexpensive experience with very good wine. Saints Hills is a short drive from Trpanj.

SAINTS HILLS WINERY CROATIA

UTRKA MAGARACA

We also walked into town several evenings to mingle with the modest crowds, sometimes to hear a live band on the beach or to have a drink or cool ourselves with a refreshing gelato. One night, Trpanj hosted their yearly donkey races. We watched the riders try to coax the stubborn beasts to the finish line sometimes unsuccessfully sometimes with a pat on their haunches by seconds. We watched several heats before melting into the crowd on the quay where traditional singers were performing for the crowds and sipped wine from temporary stands. It was a delightful night, and without our hosts we would never have experienced this summer pastime in Trpanj. 

DINNER AT KONOBA TRPANJ

MORE TRPANJ PICTURES     

To travel is one thing but to live with friends in their country is a blessed time. We were very fortunate to have such dear friends and so many happy memories. . 

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