DESTINATION: BLUE LAGOON
The South Pacific nation of Fiji is comprised of over 300 islands of which around 100 are permanently inhabited and over 500 islets scattered across over 1 million square miles of ocean.
The South Pacific nation of Fiji is comprised of over 300 islands of which around 100 are permanently inhabited and over 500 islets scattered across over 1 million square miles of ocean.
More than half of the
roughly 900,000 Fijians live on the largest island of Viti Levu. The capitol of
Suva is on the southeast corner of Viti Levu and Nadi, on the west coast is the
site of the international airport. Near to Nadi (pronounced NAN-de) is Port
Denarau where Blue Lagoon Cruises’ Fiji Princess starts and ends her weekly
adventure through the islands of Mamanuca and Yasawa.
STUNNING
Located to the west and
north of Viti Levu, these volcanic island archipelagos are popular with
tourists lured by the wide sandy beaches, crystal clear waters and thriving
colorful coral and the chance to swim with reef sharks and majestic manta rays.
There are lots of resorts scattered throughout the islands, from high end
luxury accommodations to the budget-minded backpack traveler.
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| Fiji Princess route |
The Fiji Princess made a serpentine course through the inviting islands of Manamuca and Yasawa and each day we got to visit at least one island. Sometimes we had the great fortune to swim at one, and visit another, sheltering in a cove. These weren't massive cruise ship stops, but relaxing days and glorious sunsets. Every day we had a unique Fijian experience, whether it was visiting a village, or a high school or having a lovo (fire pit) meal, drinking kava (a slightly hallucinogenic root used in Fijian ceremonies), being entertained by a Fijian Meke dance performance, visiting old movie shooting locations, swimming in limestone caves, or snorkeling and diving through some beautiful coral reefs with reef sharks thankfully ignoring us (though we missed swimming with manta rays that usually frequent the area).
We were blessed to do so much in one week. Here's a quick synopsis of our days with Blue Lagoon Cruises.
LOVE BY DICTIONARY
Each day we were given a little memo of the
planned activities of that day and included on the memo was a new Fijian word
or phrase for us to learn and practice on the staff…They were very tolerant and
greatly appreciated the efforts.
The Fijian phrase for the day: “Yadra” / Good Morning
SATURDAY
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| Monuriki Island |
Monuriki Island
After lounging on the
back deck on Friday evening to watch the glorious colorful death-throes of
another day and mingle with other passengers we got our first swim in Saturday
morning at Monuriki Island. Small and uninhabited it is nonetheless a tourist
attraction. You’ve seen this island before in the Tom Hanks movie “Cast Away.”
Someone had spelled out
in coconuts, “Send Help”, but the Fiji Princess was never that far away.
Soso Village, Naviti
Island 
To go to a traditional
Fijian village with all the protocols involved was something we looked forward
to doing and we got our chance to visit the Soso Village on Naviti. After all
part of the allure of traveling is experiencing different cultures and Fiji is
certainly a different world with different attitudes.
It was an optional shore
excursion, and all who went ashore to visit the village were expected to wear a
sulu (or sarong) that dangled to mid-calf. No bared shoulders or hats were
allowed in the village. Blue Lagoon provided the sulus, and the requisite gift
of kava root to be presented to the chief.
Kava is a slightly hallucinogenic
drink that is part of the Fijian lifestyle but is also found throughout the
cultures of the Polynesia. We would get to sample kava a few days later.
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| SOSO VILLAGE |
We were coached in how
to enter the doorless main building of the village by chanting a Fijian phrase
(as there was no way to knock and announce ourselves otherwise).
We were to sit
cross-legged on the floor as the chief thanked us for our gift and then told us
a bit about life in the village. Then he answered several questions before
showing us the village. We toured the ball field where children were practicing
rugby skills and then the primary school building where Janet and I left a
donation of an activities book. We toured the church and were all invited back
the next day (Sunday) for services. The Fijians sing beautifully.
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| SOSO VILLAGE |
SUNDAY
The Fijian phrase for
the day: Vacava Tiko? / How are you?
DRAWAQA ISLAND
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| DIVING IN FIJI |
Instead of returning to
Soso village for Sunday morning services, Janet and I decided to go diving. The
cruise director contacted the Barefoot Manta Island Resort on the next island
and their tender picked us up. There was no diving equipment on the tender and
instead it raced us back to the resort, about a 10-minute trip.
Speeding through the
blue water on a bright Sunday morning, nothing on the islands we passed hinted at
any habitation let alone resorts, but when the tender deposited us at Thuvu Bay,
we could see the dive shop and beyond, the actual resort. It consisted of cabins
or Bures of varying sizes and a few dorms, which were basically massive tents
with cots. There was a main building and there was wifi and there was
incredible diving.
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| CHRISTMAS TREE WORMS |
Manta Rays usually frequent the area from April to October
as the channel between Naviti and Drawaqa island has plenty of nutrients the
rays feed on, as with anything in nature there are no guarantees, and we were
not lucky to see any of the majestic creatures on this trip or any subsequent
snorkeling swims.
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| the real taste of FIJI |
We were lucky though to
play with a “Warm Christmas Tree” on one of our dives. This marine worm burrows
into coral and unfurls spiraling appendages that look like little Christmas
trees. The appendages filter food to the creature. They are brightly colored
ranging from yellow to red to bright pink, and when you near them these little Christmas
tree scoot away and hide in their burrow. Fascinating! Found all over the
tropics, this was our first encounter with the skittish worms.
After our dive we caught
up with the rest of the Fijian Princess passengers as they snorkeled and
lounged on another beach. The ship’s chef gave us a demonstration of Kokoda
cooking. It’s a ceviche prepared with coconut milk. Here is a recipe:
MONDAY
The Fijian phrase for
the day: Mai Kana / Let’s eat!
THE SACRED ISLANDS
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| THE SACRED ISLANDS, FIJI |
The Blue Lagoon cruise
people called this small cluster of four deserted islands in the Mamanuca
island archipelago ‘The Sacred Islands’ and claim that Fijian culture began
here. Three of these beautiful islands were linked by a sandbar at low tide and
it was where we spent most of our day lounging on the white sands and snorkeling
the reefs. While we relaxed, we watched a high-speed catamaran approach the Fiji
Princess and swap out the three-day with four-day passengers.
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| view from the ship |
The beauty of each
passing day is amazing.
TUESDAY
The Fijian phrase for
the day: Toulou (pronounced too-low) / Excuse me
NANUYA ISLAND
We spent the entire day
on this stretch of island owned by the Blue Lagoon Cruises. They backed the
Fiji Princess about 50 yds off-shore and tied her up to coconut trees, and we
were able to either take a tender to shore or swim back and forth.
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| LOVO PREPARATION |
The island is famous
for the film Blue Lagoon, starring Brooke Shields, which was shot there.
We spent the entire day
and evening on the island. We were treated to a BBQ lunch, and lovo or firepit
meal, where the embers are covered with banana and coconut leaves. After the meal
we were treated to a “Meke” show from the Matacawalevu Village. Beautiful voices
and great dancing! I also got to try Kava for the first time.… Needs some rum.
WEDNESDAY
The Fijian phrase for
the day: Kerekere / Please
SAWA-I-LAU CAVES and
TAMASUA VILLAGE
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| lingering on Nanuya |
We lingered on Nanuya Island
until mid-morning. We went on a guided hike after breakfast to see the actual “Blue
Lagoon” and then left for the Sawa-I-Lau caves.
This is the only
limestone island in the archipelago and caves have been formed by constant waves, but we descended down into a soaring cavern filled with fresh or brackish water. The first cavern was open to the sky and sunlight filtered through and we gaped in awe at this magnificent natural formation.
Then, with the help of crew members we dove under some rocks to another smaller cavern. The only lights were from torches carried by the crew and at the far end was another exit to the seemingly endless cave on the island.
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| The main cavern on Sawa-I-Lau |
The story went that someone attempted to find the end with scuba gear and despite having 5 tanks they could not find the end!
It is a must for any trip to the Yasawa Islands in Fiji!
TAMASUA
The Fijian people are very family oriented and the communal lifestyle was on full display in Tamasua, the village we next visited and where we took our evening meal. The chef from the Fiji Princess grew up in this village and again, wearing our sulus and asking to enter the main building (which was in this case a very stylish canopy tent), we where treated to a full kava ceremony with the village chef presiding over all. There were songs and greetings and some very good food. 
Afterwards we were able to stroll the village and meet some of the citizens and do a little more shopping courtesy of the ladies of the village.
The Fijian government gives all these villages a stipend to continue their lifestyle, but also they rely on donations and the nominal fees they charge whenever people visit their village.
It is a small meager price to pay for the privilege to be here.
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| at Tamasua |
THURSDAY
The Fijian phrase for
the day: savica na ka loko / What’s the time?
YASAWA HIGH SCHOOL
Primary schools are all in the villages, but there is just one High School in the Yasawa Islands. University education is on the main island of Viti Levu. 
In the morning we were able to visit the high school and tour the grounds and greet some of the students who were very eager to say hello. At one point I was chased down by three girls who wanted me to take their picture.
We were treated to several songs by the students and we donated an activity book about the United States. Janet signed it and on the map inside pointed out where we live. Several other passengers also donated books and supplies and money.
Later that day we got to snorkel above some beautiful coral reefs teeming with marine life, and just off shore. Fiji is absolutely beautiful.
FRIDAY
The Fijian phrase for
the day: Moce mada / Goodbye
All good things end,
and after settling our onboard bill we packed our bags, left them outside the
cabin and then lingered over breakfast until it was time to disembark at Port
Denaru. The crew sang us off, and when finished the captain fittingly said…with a
massive smile of course…. 'Now get off my boat!'
Thanks for reading
Love Janet and greg
© 2022 by Gregory Dunaj
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