VACATIONS FROM HOME: TRIANA, SEVILLE

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BELMONTE STATUE

On our first day in Seville, we went on a tour of the two major attractions of the city, the Cathedral where we saw Christopher Columbus’ tomb and climbed the Giralda belltower, and the Alcazar Palace, where we cowered appropriately in the Hall of the Ambassadors, whose grandeur was meant to inspire angst in anyone visiting the royalty of Spain. The next day we went on a tapas bar tour where we learned not only what was on the menu, but what to drink. An aged sherry called Oloroso became our favored drink. Then later that evening we went to a Flamenco show, one of many such “tablaos” in the city.

We had experienced already quite a bit in Seville in these two days, and we had nearly three full days left to explore this Andalusian city. Yet, by the end of our time here, we wished we had more time!

Sadly we discovered Triana, a section of Seville too late. Here’s a quick recap of our time there.

TRIANA

From Auto-da-fés to Espinacas Con Garbanzos

Triana is across the Guadalquivir River and is less touristed than the rest of Seville. More residential than Santa Cruz, the tourist-central barrio where our apartment was located. Nevertheless Triana has a history that is compelling and worth a visit.

Sadly, we didn’t trek over the river until our Saturday cooking class with the Taller Andaluz de Cocina cooking school located in the Mercado de Triana just over Puente de Isabel II.

Part of the “class” was a tour of the market and her myriad of food stalls. We learned about the ingredients of the meals we were going to prepare in our class, as well as olives and Jamon and cheeses and vegetables and fruits. We also learned that the market was once the site of the notorious Castle of San Jorge, where the Spanish Inquisition was headquartered and had its prison.

Auto-da-fés means “act of faith” a requirement of public penance meant to test the piety of heretics and apostates. These “acts of faith” didn’t usually end well for the accused, but we were able to walk away unscathed down the ominously named Callejon de la Inquisicion, an alley that led the poor souls from the river to their accusers.

It is possible to view the ruins of the Inquisitor castle at one end of the market.

COOKING CLASS w/ TALLER ANDALUZ de CONCINA

Cooking class

The cooking school offers several options to learn Spanish cuisine and it is a fun activity. There were 12 of us in their kitchen located a short walk down the paseo along the river.

We made Gazpacho, a spinach and chickpeas tapas (Espinacas con Garbanzos), Paella Valenciana and for dessert a lemon sorbet with cava (Spanish version of champagne). We were given a choice of beer, soft drinks or freshly made sangria.

TALLER ANDALUZ DE COCINA

HIDDEN GEM at THE MERCARDO de TRIANA

It is possible to have a meal or drinks at several stalls in the Mercado de Triana, and after our class we purchased some olives and saffron to take home.

Flamenco is an artform that is closely associated with the Romani people and Triana has a large population of Romani. There are several Flamenco bars in this section of town. Here's a list: FLAMENCO BARS

In the Mercardo there is a small theater with seating available for less than 30 patrons, which holds Flamenco shows. At the Casa Le Teatro, located at stalls 11 and 12, they hold “Intima Triana” Flamenco shows roughly twice a week. For a chance to experience Flamenco up close and personal go here for tickets: INTIMA TRIANA FLAMENCO

AZULEJO, TAPAS AND MATADORS…and BOATS

Tapas

Our Tapas tour guide, Shawn, recommended several places in Triana, and we returned the next day on Sunday to have drinks and we ordered every tapa she suggested at Antiqua Casa Diego, although Janet only ate the Ensaladilla de Pulpo (Octopus).

Here is Shawn's review of Antiqua Casa Diego: ANTIGUA CASA DIEGO

Located on Alfareria 5 just off the main street of Triana that was closed to traffic and families strolled in the afternoon sun. There were several merchants displaying their wares on blankets.

BELMONTE

Matador

Juan Belmonte is considered by many as the greatest matador. He revolutionized bullfighting by not jumping out of the way of a bull when it charged but would stand motionless and “guide” the bull around him, dangerously close to the horns. He was gored several times, but he did fight 109 bulls in 1919, a record at the time.

He is from Triana and was a friend of Ernest Hemingway, who wrote about him in two novels: Death in the Afternoon and The Sun Also Rises.

Just as you come into Triana just over the Puente Isabel II there is a statue of Belmonte in the Plaza del Altozano, just across the street from the market.

Azulejo

Tin-glazed ceramic tiles are popular in Spain and Portugal and decorate everything from exteriors of homes to churches and restaurants. Triana became the center of this ornamental tiling in the 13^th Century and today you can visit a museum of Azulejo tiling in Triana.

There are wonderful Azulejo tiling all throughout the Plaza de Espana. The plaza was built for the Ibero-American Exhibition of 1929 and features 52 azulejo decorated benches representing each of the provinces of Spain. Located in Maria-Luisa Park it is possible to rent a boat to sail on the canal or hire a horse drawn carriage for a ride around the park, although it is free to stroll the grounds of both the park and the plaza.

AZULEJO IN TRIANA

Cruise the Guadalquivir

There are tour boats along the river that separates Triana from Seville. This one-hour leisurely diversion leaves from the Golden Tower, a defensive edifice erected by the Muslims which is not far from the Alcazar Palace and returns there. There is audio commentary on board and you get to see Triana from the river. The trip costs about $22.00.