Decades ago, Janet and
I had both been to Barbados. She went there with her mom, and I had taken my
kids there on a family vacation. We were looking forward to returning and
exploring more of the island and we booked a two-week trip to Barbados, staying
at both the Sandals and the near-by Dover Beach Hotel in the touristed area of
St. Lawrence Gap. We saw a lot and still we needed more time.
Here’s a list of what
we did during our stay:
OISTINS FISH FRY
We learned about the Friday
Night Oistins Fish Fry after we booked our Sandals vacation and rather than
slide around the days we decided to just come early, and so we booked a few
days at the cheaper but convenient Dover Beach Hotel, literally steps from
Sandals.
Ho-hum, another few
days in paradise.
Oistins Fish Fry
Oistins is an active fishing
town, not far from where we were staying in St. Lawrence Gap. Open daily, the
fish fry begins around 7 pm. It’s a very popular destination for visitors and
locals and the main attraction is the food. Make sure you get there before 8 pm
or expect a long wait.
You have a choice of
marlin, mahi, tuna, swordfish, red snapper, salmon, flying fish and lobster and
chicken, either grilled or fried, depending on the vendor you order from. You
are served A LOT of your choice and a meal with one beer should cost anywhere
from $15-$18 usd. We went to the vendor Uncle George’s, but another notable is Chillin
‘n Grillin. Seating is haphazard with our server moving people already seated
to put out more tables.
Although Oistins is
open every night, Fridays are especially busy. Sometimes there’s a live band,
sometimes there’s DJ music and there’s always a roving Tuk Drum band playing
for tips. There is art and crafts and jewelry for sale, there is dancing, there
are kids running around in this informal family friendly event.
Here's a short clip of a Tuk Band at Oistins:
BTW:
Don’t book a tour or hire a car service from a resort like Sandals. They charge
too much money. Just flag down a cab. There are a lot along Dover Road in St.
Lawrence Gap. Make sure you negotiate the price first. It should be USD $15 (or
BDS $30) each way for a ride, no matter how many people in the cab. We got a
van and there was six of us and it still cost just $15. Sandals wanted to
charge USD$60 per couple. On the way back we hailed a cab on the street.
BTW2: A Tuk Band is basically
a group of people playing drums and snaking through the crowds, being led by a
costumed character. On our night it was “Mother Sally”. She represents
fertility with her exaggerated behind and is a favorite with Bajans and visitors.
It is customary to tip the band as they parade past.
A Mini-Moke
TOURING THE ISLAND
What was I thinking?
Long ago when I first
went to Barbados, I rented something called a “mini-moke”, an open-air car that
was originally designed for military use, but quickly became popular in the
Caribbean as a civilian car. It was the only time I ever drove on the left side
of the road. Thankfully Mokes don’t go very fast and somehow me and the kids
survived. I wasn’t going to do that again.
Now older and wiser we
decided to get someone to drive us around to tour the island. Barbados has
something like 900 miles of roadways and the difference between the east coast and
the Atlantic Ocean and the western Caribbean Ocean side is dramatic.
A newer Moke
We hired the highly
recommended Sanjay for a day touring the island. His schedule is packed, so
unless you're going to rent a mini-moke, even if today’s models look more like a
car than an amusement park ride, and test the limits of your nerves, plan on
booking him far in advance of your travels to Barbados.
For instance, we first
contacted Sanjay in May for a tour in December, and then we couldn’t get him until
very late in our stay in Barbados. He was very busy as the Wisden Trophy, a major
cricket tournament between England and the West Indies, had shifted to the
Kensington Oval in Bridgetown, Barbados the week we wanted to hire him. Traffic
in Bridgetown was horrific. Sanjay is a big fan of cricket and wore a West
Indies team hat (The Windies) on our tour with him.
Windies logo
Beaches and Caves and
Monkeys and RUM!
There’s a lot to see in
Barbados and Sanjay offered suggestions in the back-and-forth emails with
Janet. We finally settled on seeing one beach on the east coast, one cave in
the north end of the island, a troop of monkeys in the jungle and a lot of shots
of rum.
Bathsheba
Barbados is ringed by
beautiful beaches, and all are free. The western side is calm with soft white
sand and crystal-clear water is inviting and popular with scuba divers and
snorkelers. Bathsheba best represents the power of the Atlantic Ocean side. We
stopped at this fishing village for the dramatic rock formations just offshore.
Eroded by the tides, the rocks look like they will topple with each crashing
wave. Enjoy the view, but swimming is not recommended because of the strong
undertow. Bathsheba is popular with surfers.
Bathsheba
It was our only beach
stop on the east coast of Barbados.
BTW: Another beach to
visit on the east coast is Cattlewash. North of Bathsheba this
long remote beach is literally named for the cattle that farmers used to bring
down to the beach to get washed in the tide pools. I had been here long ago
with the kids, and we were surprised by an inquisitive cow as we were admiring
the surf. The farms, and the cattle, are
gone, but the name remains.
Sadly, we did not stop.
We just drove along the beach road onto our next destination, because we wanted
to make the 11:00 am feeding of the green monkeys at The Grenada Wildlife
Reserve.
BTW2:
Carlisle Bay Thoroughbred horse racing
is popular in Barbados and held at the Garrison Savannah, the home of the
Barbados Turf Club in Bridgetown. Every morning from sunrise to around 7:00 am handlers
bring their horses to bathe them in the calm waters of Carlisle Bay, also a
popular place for snorkeling and scuba diving as there are 5 shipwrecks in the tranquil
waters of the bay.
Crane Beach is sometimes listed as
one of the top 10 most beautiful beaches in the world! When the conditions and
the algae are right the soft sand takes on a pink-hue. It was on my Bajan “return
tour” listing, having been there long ago with the kids, but logistics had us decide
on Bathsheba.
GREEN MONKEY BUSINESS
Feeding time for the
green monkeys at the Barbados Wildlife Reserve is at 11:00 am. The Bds$30.00
per person is worth it to get close to the monkeys as they clamor for the fruits
and vegetables laid out for them. There was some roughhousing and some of the
younger monkeys were chastised by the older ones when they didn’t wait their
turn.
Signs everywhere warn
visitors that the monkeys are wild animals and to not touch them, but I watched
as a young monkey held a woman’s finger, almost lovingly, as it waited
patiently for the food to arrive.
After a few minutes of frantic activity, the monkeys all scatter again. We then explored the Grenade Hill Signal Station and the rest of the reserve that was home to tortoises and peacocks and macaws, snakes and fronts, but it was a bit anti-climactic after the monkey feeding. Most of the people who came for the feeding left soon after as well.
BTW1: Green monkeys are not
native to Barbados but were brought here from Africa by early settlers as pets
and unfortunately for the green monkey are now used to create polio vaccine. According
to the Reserve’s pamphlet one green monkey can create 2.5 million doses of the
vaccine.
ANIMAL FLOWER CAVE
On the extreme northern
point of Barbados is the popular Animal Flower Cave. Enjoy the dramatic views
of the waves crashing into the cliffs and then descend the stairs with a guide
to get a tour of the sea-cave below. It’s slippery and the “animal flowers”,
what the locals call sea anemones, are a bit underwhelming, at least for this dufus
who was more interested in preventing a slip and fall. As a nature stop though
it was quite beautiful but be sure to wear the correct foot gear and not
sandals if you decide to go. It is possible to swim in a pool at one end, but
we decided against it.
It costs USD$20.00 to for
entry and you should tip the guide who will try to steer you towards his meager
array of “collectables” after his tour.
There’s a restaurant on
the premises offering sweeping views of the sea, where it’s possible to espy
migrating whales.
If you want to save
money, I will attach a video a man recently took of his tour of the Animal
Flower Cave and you can decide for yourself.
BTW:
Harrison’s Cave Eco-Adventure
Park
The Animal Flower Cave
is not the only option for spelunking in Barbados. Harrison’s Cave is a far
larger cave system and has stalagmites and stalactites, caverns and pools and
underground streams. You tour the cave via a tram that takes about 1.5 hours and
costs USD$57.00. The “adventure pass” which costs more, gives you access to the
zipline and hiking trails and pool and a “challenge” course.
This is one of the main
tourist attractions in Barbados, but we figured trying to squeeze it in during
our tour of the island would be too much. Better to return another day.
(Besides, I hate ziplines)
Mount Gay has been distilling
rum since 1703, making it the oldest distillery in the world, and no tour of
Barbados would be complete without a visit and a sampling. Different varied
tours are available at the actual distillery which is at the northern end of
Barbados in the parish of St. Lucy. All include a tour of the distillery
grounds and rum sampling and cost anywhere from usd$70.00 to $113.00 per person
depending on the activity included. We opted for the 2:30pm “signature rum
tasting” at the Mount Gay visitor’s center. At just $25.00, the tasting
included a welcome cocktail, a movie and a guide who walked us through the
history of Mount Gay and then described the nuances of each of their rums as we
sampled 4 rums: Silver, Eclipse, Black and XO. We were all very impressed with the
XO and purchased bottles of it in the gift shop. There is a bar on the premises
and food for purchase available, but as this was nearing the end of our day
with Sanjay we decided to eat when we got back to Sandals.
To make the Mount Gay 2:30
tasting, the last one for the day, we could not linger over lunch at the Animal
Flower Cave, but we were able to leisurely drive down the west coast through
the towns of Speightstown and Holetown, and past the many white beaches along
this stretch of the island as Sanjay gleefully pointed out this expensive place
or Rhianna’s apartment, etc.
The final stretch of
our tour was to drive through our neck of the woods in the Gap along Dover Road
and we pointed out to our friends who were on the tour with us the restaurants
we ate at before we checked into Sandals Barbados.
There are plenty of
bars and restaurants along Dover Road. It’s a party area, but safe. We saw police strolling
the street and there were lots of police surveillance cameras. Many of the
restaurants have ocean side seating. We ate at three different places:
Socialites
A small colorful place on
Dover Road. Popular with locals and tourists. Outdoor seating are gaily painted
picnic tables. Surprisingly good food. We split a pulled pork sandwich with
tons of fries.
Sea Fans Beach Bar and
Restaurant
Located in the Infinity
on the Beach Hotel, at the corner of Dover Rd and St. Lawrence Gap, this quiet
open-air restaurant overlooks the beach. We had fresh tuna steaks for just USD$25.
BTW: The Barbadian dollar
is 2-to-1 to the US dollar. The restaurants were surprised we wanted to tip. A
lot of British travel to Barbados and tipping is not a high priority for them.
Mimosas Trattoria and Bar
Lovely place for brunch
on St. Lawrence Gap Road, not far from Divi Southwinds. Try to get seated on
the porch by the bar, but the patio still offers a great ocean view, although
it is sunnier and hotter. There’s a little playground for kids on the grounds.
Writing this entry
makes me want to return to Barbados.
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