VACATIONS FROM HOME: HCMC! JUST LIKE I PICTURED IT

(AHEM) IT’S SAIGON
HCMC SKYLINE

In the ensuing years after the end of the Vietnam War in 1975 if you called Ho Chi Minh City by its original name, you would be invited to the Communist Party’s offices for a cup of tea.

Not good.

Since 1986 though, when the Doi Moi economic renovations were rolled out, the Socialist Republic of Vietnam has risen from one of the world’s poorest countries to a middle-class economy. Things are still very cheap for us while there, but money talks and calling the largest, wealthiest city in Vietnam Saigon is much more relaxed.

Yeah, officially the city is still named after Uncle Ho, and Ho Chi Minh City is listed as such on maps, road signs and airport ticker boards, but HCMC and Saigon are both recognized. Afterall, they never changed the name of the Saigon River, and they still brew Saigon Beer.

“Ho Beer” doesn’t have the same panache, I guess.

WORLDBANK OVERVIEW OF VIETNAM

Saigon…er HCMC… is a sprawling city more reminiscent of say New York than Vietnam, and its wealth is evident in the growing infrastructure. On our recent trip to Vietnam with the small tour group company, Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT), several fellow travelers who had been to Saigon … er HCMC… a few years ago were amazed by all the new skyscrapers that had sprung up in the interim.

CARAVELLE MARTINIS

Yet, despite the gleaming new buildings and models posing for photo shoots on the streets, the high-end shops, and even a few craft beer establishments, there are people in Saigon … er HCMC… using charcoal braziers on the sidewalk preparing street food and the scooters buzz like hornets on the busy streets, and most importantly you still cannot drink the tap water.

Yes, do not drink the tap water anywhere in Vietnam. Bottled water only. Trust me.

MARTINIS IN SAIGON

Better yet, avoid water altogether in this cosmopolitan town and drink a well concocted martini. Here are a couple of places where we’ve enjoyed a drink and a beautiful view.

CARAVELLE HOTEL for Happy Hour

Go to the rooftop bar for the Caravelle Hotel’s 2 for 1 happy hour. Marvel at the gleaming expanse of Saigon as you linger over your martini perched on their open balcony. With top shelf vodkas and reasonable prices, the Caravelle is just across the street from the Opera House and across the square from our next gin mill.

CARAVELLE HOTEL SAIGON

THE CONTINENTAL HOTEL
The Continental Hotel, Saigon

First opened in 1880 this hotel was built to accommodate French travelers after the long cruise to Indochina. During the Vietnam War the Continental was where all the press hung out and presumably drank. Notable guests of the Continental were Hunter S. Thompson who covered the last days before the fall of Saigon in 1975 and the British author Graham Greene. Greene was a long-time guest at the Continental and conceived his novel, “The Quiet American”, about the end of French colonialism in Indochina and America’s early involvement in the Vietnam War while staying there. Made into a film twice, the second one stars Brendan Fraser in the titular role.

Proud of her place in history, there is a corridor near the entrance that contains several placards that chronicle the Continental’s past and her storied guests. As it was too hot and humid for us to sit outside at café tables on the street we sat inside in the large airy hotel foyer. The high ceilings were to help dispel the tropical heat and there is a large garden in the interior. Even if you don’t drink you should visit the Continental in Saigon… or whatever you want to call it.

The Opera House is directly across the street.

THE CONTINENTAL SAIGON

HCMC CRAFT BEER

Beer is popular in the tropical temperatures of Vietnam and every city we visited in Vietnam had their own brew. Country-wide you could find 333, Larue and Tiger Beer. The capitol had its Hanoi Beer, a pilsner, and Bia Hoi, a beer brewed daily and found mostly in the bars along Beer Street.

Huda in Hue

Hue had Huda, a lager. While cruising along the spectacular Halong Bay, a Halong pilsner is necessary. Apart from the Hoi An Brewing Company there are also small craft breweries in that tourist town. Heineken has been in Danang since 1997 where they brew all Larue and Tiger brands as well as Bia Viet.

In the tourist town of Nha Trang we had craft beer at the Louisiane Brewhouse situated right on the beach.

Saigon Beer is found everywhere in Vietnam, but there are two notable craft breweries in HCMC. One is Pasteur Street offering a full array of styles. There are 8 taprooms in Saigon and thankfully one was just around the block from our hotel, the Central Palace Hotel.

PASTEUR STREET BREWERY, VIETNAM

Heart of Darkness is another craft brewer. They also have a taproom in DaNang and they name their beers after characters in the film Apocalypse Now. Especially appealing is Kurtz’s Insane IPA.

HEART OF DARKNESS BREWERY VIETNAM

Central Post Office Saigon

BECAUSE YOU CAN’T DRINK ALL THE TIME

Central Post Office and Notre Dame Cathedral

I know this article so far has been about alcohol, so go visit the Saigon Central Post Office at No. 2, Paris Commune Street. It is one of the oldest buildings in HCMC.

Central Post Office interior

Construction began in 1886 and the French Colonial building with neo-classical European design elements like arched ceilings and decorated with Asian influences looks more like a train station. It is a working post office, a gift shop and a beautiful building to visit.

The “secret” CIA building

now

then

When you exit the post office look to your left to see the “secret” CIA building a block or so away. History buffs may recall the iconic last helicopter taking off from that building in 1975 during the fall of Saigon. The building is not open to the public, but it is worth a picture.

Notre Dame Cathedral

If you’re into visiting churches, the Catholic Cathedral across from the post office might be interesting. Erected by French Colonialists in the late 1800s, Catholics were running the government in South Vietnam and were biased towards Catholics at the expense of Buddhists. This led to clashes in the lead up to the Vietnam War.

If you visit the grounds of the Basilica, be sure to check out the statue of the Virgin Mary. In 2005 the statue was purportedly shedding a tear down her right cheek which lured thousands of pilgrims.

Ben Thanh Market

Whatever souvenirs you need go to the massive Ben Thanh Market and prepare to haggle, especially if you decide to venture to the interior where vendors will nearly tackle you to get your business. This beautiful massive market has everything. We bought a t-shirt and a carry-on luggage piece that cost about $13 USD.

BROKEN RICE AND PIZZA

Overseas Adventure Travel provides most meals. Though we were in Saigon for just three full days with two of them filled with road trips, we still managed to eat out on our own.

Com Tam Moc

Broken rice are kernels that have been damaged in the handling process and once considered inferior. There’s nothing wrong with the rice, but poor farmers would eat the broken kernels because it was cheaper. It is now a staple of Saigon cuisine and is popular with locals and foreigners. Usually served with pork or eggs, you can eat Com Tam with a fork.

The Com Tam Moc restaurant was a couple of blocks down from the hotel.

COM TAM MOC SAIGON

Ciao Bella Il Primo, 11 Dong Du Street

Sometimes you just need comfort food. After three weeks of Pho and fertilized duck eggs, pizza beckoned.

CIAO BELLA IL PRIMO, SAIGON

CENTRAL PALACE HOTEL SAIGON

DAY TRIPS

Using HCMC as a base, OAT took us on a couple of day trips out of HCMC. A couple of hours drive by coach each trip was remarkable and historical.

Cu Chi Tunnels

Cu Chi Tunnel Rat

Cu Chi is a vast network of tunnels that are not far from Saigon proper and during the war served as the Viet Cong’s base of operations during the Tet Offensive. Stretching to over 200 km to the Cambodia border the tunnels were the terminus of the Ho Chi Minh Trail. It’s kind of eerie and even unnerving to some to experience the tunnels like a tourist and one can book a day tour. It is a popular tourist excursion. Outside the entrance there are derelict war machines like a tank and an airplane and there is a firing range for several types of guns used during the war.

There’s a gift shop.

CU CHI TUNNELS

Mekong Delta and Coconut Candy

Another popular day trip out of Saigon was to take a sampan along the Mekong Delta. As a youth the Mekong Delta was mentioned nightly on the news, and it was intriguing to see it. The sampan slipped along the sediment filled water passing fish farms as we drank coconut water from a coconut. We visited a small farm on one of the islands and met with the owner who gave us fruit from his garden. We then transferred to a smaller sampan to visit a coconut candy factory. There’s a gift shop here too. Art, leather goods, artifacts and of course coconut candy are available for purchase.