TONLÉ SAP LAKE, CAMBODIA

BREATHING

Tonle Sap youth

Angkor Wat and the temple complex of the Khmer Empire is the most popular tourist destination in Cambodia, but don’t pass up an opportunity to visit the floating villages of Tonlé Sap, the largest freshwater lake in southeast Asia. There are several small communities that live near or on the lake, either in houses on dramatically long stilts, or on floating structures that are anchored but can be relocated when the water level rises with the rainy season.

The locals spend much of their lives tied to the cycle of nature and the ebb and flow between the dry and rainy season is like breathing. In the dry season the lake drains into the Mekong River, but during the rainy season the flow reverses pushing water back into the lake swelling its volume 5 times to roughly 1,000 square miles. As the lake grows the homes and structures are towed to stay above the waterline and to maintain access to land and fishing areas as fish migrations change with deeper water.

house with floating garden

The small communities of the lake fish for food and commerce and also use the flooding waters to help irrigate crops on land. Though tied to the lake these communities still have all the nuances of a land-based lifestyle, with stores, bars and restaurants and schools and churches. Some of the larger structures even have multiple levels and can accommodate several families. Some of the villagers even have floating gardens and keep chickens and livestock for eggs and meat.

DAY TRIP

This unique way of living is not far from Siem Reap and there are several tour companies offering day trips to cruise on the lake and see the villages up close. We traveled to Cambodia with Overseas Adventure Tours, and they brought us to the Mechrey village by bus where they had arranged a stop with a family who lived on a floating house, though tethered to the shore. Several generations lived on the boat including a couple of spirited rambunctious boys who tussled with each other as they vied for the attention of our cameras. The family had electricity, a television and a small garden on the roof and a fish pen on the side of the boat where they kept their catch until needed. 

                                                                fish pen Tonle Sap

When we finally headed out on the lake we boarded a private wooden boat with a canopy and seats enough for a dozen passengers. As we headed down the canal in the brown silt-choked water we passed several clusters of homes on stilts and several people waist deep casting nets. We passed sampans laden with produce and bottles of water and gasoline. Other boats swiftly flitted by us in both directions.

Tonle Sap

Finally reaching the lake the true expanse of Tonle Sap was revealed, and there was only water on the horizon. Sadly, our lake cruise only took us to the fringe of the village; we were not able to “shop” and the restaurant was not open, but we got a great view of many homes, and our tour guide pointed out (in the distance) the church and the school that serves this community. Whenever we saw people on the houseboats they waved.

I understand other tours one can kayak or ride a sampan to get up close and personal with the villagers, but still our trip gave us a great view of this unique way of living in Cambodia. If you travel to Siem Reap don’t pass up an opportunity to see Tonle Sap.

Thank you for reading

Love Janet and greg

© 2024 by Gregory Dunaj