BEQUIA SERENITY

A HIDDEN GEM

When the St Vincent Sandals became the newest destination of the all-inclusive resort chain we began to plan not only for it, but also to revisit the island of Bequia. We had been to Bequia in 2006 when we sailed from St Lucia through the Grenadines to Grenada. On our return trip the captain of the Yankee Clipper who was born on Bequia had the proud wooden ship anchored overnight in Admiralty Bay.

At the time our impression of Bequia was of a quiet tranquil place with a rich history of whaling and shipbuilding, but we weren’t there long enough and when this opportunity to return presented itself, we made plans

It’s relatively easy to get here once on St. Vincent. Bequia is just an hour’s ferry ride from the “mainland” for $10 USD.

SAILING HUB

Thankfully Bequia hasn’t changed that much in the 20 years since we were last here. Whaling and shipbuilding are a major part of the island’s history, and the island has always been a popular gathering spot for sailing boats and yachts. While lounging on the beach at our hotel on Admiralty Bay the past few days we watched the commerce of sailing as several boats looking like million dollar “holes in the water” as they moored in the azure waters or sailed away. Two massive ships entered the bay and their passengers filled Port Elizabeth and the area shops and some day trippers passed our beach on the way to Princess Margaret Beach a short hike away. The second ship was the three masted Sea Cloud Spirit which launched in 2021. She reminded Janet and I of our voyage on the Yankee Clipper so long ago.

The Sea Cloud Spirit

We really didn’t explore Bequia beyond Admiralty Bay like we did the last time here when we toured the island. This time we were content to simply enjoy the serenity of this laidback island and the convivial spirit of her people. 

WALK THIS WAY

Belmont Walkway Bequia

It is possible to walk from the port all the way to Princess Margaret Beach along a narrow pathway called the Belmont Walkway. It is a narrow cement strip path, at times uneven, at times splashed by the wake of the ferry coming in and our hotel and all the establishments we visited while here are located along it.

In 2006 there were only two restaurants / bars that we knew about, Frangipani and the Whaleboner. The entrance to the Whaleboner has two massive whale rib bones arching over its entrance and whale vertebrae are the tops of their bar stools. We were looking forward to returning to Bequia just so we could have another drink at this unique place. 

The area has gotten a bit busier and there are several more establishments along the Belmont Walkway. We talked to a couple of natives including Chief, a former skipper and his wife and daughter who run a boutique shop in town called Solana’s, and they agreed there is a lot more going on here than when we first visited. That’s not to say Bequia has been built up. There are no mega resorts on Bequia, and you would be very overdressed wearing an Aloha shirt and slacks going out. So relaxed is the spirit of Bequia that T-shirts and shorts are the uniform or at worst your Aloha shirt needs to be wrinkled like it was pulled out from the dirty pile.

Janet at the Whaleboner Bequia

BOUTIQUE

We are staying at the Bequia Plantation Hotel which is on the far end of Admiralty Bay, but still just a short taxi ride from Port Elizabeth where the ferry docks. We were told we could walk to the BPH via the Belmont but don’t try to do this with luggage…and at night. I recommend you take a taxi, which should be $11 usd for two people.

Bequia Plantation Hotel

There are several similar hotels and Airbnbs throughout the island, but we’ve run into a lot of people staying on their boats and taking their dinghy to shore for meals. There are several boats catering to the sailing community, including a floating Tiki Bar and other gaily painted boats offering ice or fuel or laundry services plying to the bay. 

So pervasive is the boating community on Bequia that several shop owners asked us what sailing ship did we use to reach the island.

BEQUIA PLANTATION HOTEL

Bequia Plantation Hotel

The property of the BPH is ringed by a white fence and the green grass has statuary and fountains on the grounds, with the blue waters just beyond. It is beautiful. Our “garden view” room we have in the main building overlooks the pool and the bungalows that are also for let.

Beyond the BPH the Belmont Walkway turns into a slightly steep, but short, trail that leads to Princess Margaret beach. We’ve seen a lot of day trippers from the ferry tramp past our pastoral spot on their way to this long, beautiful stretch of sand. Jack’s Beach bar is located at one end of the beach. 

JACKS BEACH BAR BEQUIA

Walkway to Princess Margaret Beach

We’ve had several meals while on Bequia. Laura’s is closest to the Port Elizabeth right at the end of the Belmont Walkway where we had “catch of the day” tuna.

LAURA'S BEQUIA

We also had a “catch of the day” snapper meal at the hotel’s open air bar and restaurant.   

At Mac’s Pizza Janet had seared tuna and I had “catch of the day” Mahi. That was the best meal on this most recent visit to Bequia.

MAC'S PIZZA BEQUIA

We heard a trio of guitarists playing reggae and popular music at the Fig Bar and one night Mac’s had a solo guitarist playing while we enjoyed some drinks.

HO HO HO

Speaking of drinks, rum has been our go-to elixir. I’ve swayed Janet away from those sweet concoctions and we are drinking a lot of rum neat. There are several local rums available all made by St Vincent Distilleries. Sparrow, Sunset Very Strong and Captain Bligh. The high octane proof of the Sunset prevents it from being brought home by plane. We tasted it and Janet jumped out of her seat and ran around the room. Captain Bligh XO is too expensive, so we have been drinking Sparrow.

ST VINCENT DISTILLERY 

Bequia flies under the radar, unless you know about this charming sleepy beautiful island you will never get there. Of course the new prime minister of SVG, Dr. Godwin Friday, who was born on Bequia, hopes to boost tourism on his home island in the Grenadines.

I hope he doesn’t succeed.

Love Janet and greg

© 2025 by Gregory Dunaj