VACATIONS FROM HOME: GREEN BEANS AND SAND

GOING SOUTH

Do you like green beans and sand?

Both are here in this far away land

Would you like beans in your mug?

Would you like sand in your rug?

You can swim there, yes it’s true

Green sand against the ocean blue

And green beans make great coffee too

The Big Island waits for you

Hawaii, commonly called The Big Island, was Team VFH’s final stop in our visit to the 50^th State this past summer. It’s a huge island, over 4,000 square miles, bigger than the combined land mass of the other islands that make up the tropical archipelago. Sadly we had just five days on Hawaii and so we decided to concentrate on the southern portion. We were staying in the Puna district, south of Hilo, so it was reasonable to stay around here. Everywhere else is so far away. Early on we decided to forego traveling to the Kohala coast in the north for their white, sandy beaches, or to the Kona coast for their coffee, or to the Parker Ranch in Waimea, the oldest and largest ranch in America, well, for some Hawaiian-style beef jerky.THE PARKER RANCH, WAIMEA, HI

No, the distances were too great and we would have spent our entire time on Hawaii driving. The return on investment was not enough, especially with the gas prices in Hawaii. So, apart from one day we pretty much stayed close to home in the southeast corner of the island.

DISTRICT 9

Not a worry though, for there is plenty to do and see in our "neck of the woods". Puna is one of 9 districts of the island in the county of Hawaii. Now, to clarify, these districts are not “counties”, but areas of interest. Counties in the state of Hawaii are either an individual island or a grouping of islands. For example, Honolulu County is Oahu, although it also includes the Northwest or Leeward Islands that stretch out past the Midway Islands. Kauai County includes Kauai, Niihau and a couple of tiny islets. And, Hawaii, the Big Island, all by itself, is also the county of Hawaii. The island is divided into these districts with names like Puna, Hilo, Kona and Ka’u, and each have their own individual attractions.

Puna is home to the little hippie capital of Pahoa with its string of clapboard buildings housing restaurants along a boardwalk that serves as a sidewalk. We ate a couple of meals in Pahoa. A lava flow that began on June 27^th inches closer to towards the town at this writing. Another town, Kalapana, was not so lucky. In 1990 lava partially covered the town, but the community still thrives with the weekly Uncle Robert’s Farmers Market. The weekly event, where the ongoing “struggle” to maintain the Kingdom of Hawaii is centered, is really a huge party that throbs deep into the night.

Also found off the beaten path in Puna are miles of coastline with black sand beach parks and camp sites as well as the volcanically heated Ahalanui Beach Park that is partially open to the ocean which allows sea water to mix with the heated water. There is even a lifeguard here. A great place to go snorkeling is at the Waiopae Tidepools that has several interconnecting pools to explore. The eerily tranquil Lava Tree State Park near Pahoa is another stop where lava molds of trees burned in a flow from the 1700’s stand like sentinels warning of Pele’s destructive might.

AHALANUI BEACH PARK

Ahalanui Beach Park

And, of course there is Volcano National Park which sprawls beyond Puna’s border into the neighboring district of Ka’u. Home to the most active volcano in the world today, Kilauea has been adding to the girth of the Big Island since 1983 making it the longest eruption in recorded history. There’s plenty to do at the park with vantage points to view the lava (from a safe distance), camping and unique hiking trails that includes the Thurston lava tube, Devastation Trail and the Kilauea Iki Crater Trail.

Kilauea Iki Crater Trail

So, you’re thinking with all these wonderful destinations in our relative backyard there really was no reason to venture very far, but in the very next district of Ka’u there are two very, very unique things that should not be missed if one were fortunate enough to travel to this island. Plan to spend an entire day exploring black sand and green sand beaches and drinking great coffee from Ka'u.

SUN, RAIN AND A KISS OF VOG

Now, many of us with just a passing knowledge of Hawaii know about Kona coffee. It is grown on the western slopes of Mauna Loa. This coffee is known for its smoothness, its rarity and conversely its price. A pound of pure Kona can be around $30.00 and for over 100 years it was the only coffee grown in the United States. That has changed. While the Kona label was being slapped onto any coffee from anywhere and “blends” proliferate the market; you can even buy “Kona” at your local WaWa; another coffee from the eastern slopes on Mauna Loa in the Ka’u district is growing in popularity.

Even as Kona has taken steps to protect the brand name, Ka’u, with deep, rich, volcanic soils, a temperate climate of morning sunshine and afternoon clouds (or as some would call it VOG or Volcanic Smog) and a healthy amount of yearly rainfall, has been slowly making a name for itself in coffee competitions. Mostly mom and pop endeavors the Ka’u brand is slowly growing. When the Kau sugar plantations closed in 1996, the displaced area sugar workers were provided inexpensive leases for 5 acre plots by the former sugar plantation owners in order to grow coffee. At first it was difficult to just break even, but when Ka’u coffee placed the top ten of a Roasting Guild Cupping Pavilion Competition of 2007, coffee in Ka’u starting gaining a reputation of growing very good coffee. Although Ka'u prices have risen with this new-found popularity, it is still a cheaper alternative to Kona.

Embarrassingly Team VFH had never heard of Ka’u coffee before visiting the district, so we don’t want you to make the same mistake. Evidently since 2011 you can purchase Ka’u coffee at a Starbucks, but it wasn’t until we saw a sign along Route 11 near Pāhala, HI that invited us to taste the coffee at the Ka’u Coffee Mill along Wood Valley Road that we sampled this superior coffee.

Serendipitously following our taste buds we passed through the modest town of Pāhala and climbed up the hill passing groves of Macadamia nut and coffee trees to the very new facility. The mill opened in May 2012 and provides a service to the local Ka’u growers which previously had to either bring their crop west to Kona or north to Puna. It also provides jobs to the local inhabitants and it helps raise awareness of Ka’u coffee through a yearly Coffee Festival and Beauty Pageant and a half marathon called the Ka’u Coffee Trail Run.

KA'U COFFEE FEST APRIL 24-MAY 3, 2015

The mill opened in 2012 and the clean facility is staffed by great Aloha spirited people who explain the process of coffee washing and roasting. There were plenty of samples of coffee to drink and several flavored varieties of macadamia nuts to taste. We purchased a 16 oz bag of Hawaii Fancy Ka'u Washed Green Beans to roast when we got back Stateside.

Miss Ka'u Coffee Queen
Amery Silva

KA'U COFFEE MILL

The Ka'u Coffee Mill is a worthwhile stop if you are anywhere near Pāhala, but you can also order from them directly or any of the other Ka'u coffee farmers to get a taste of this great Hawaiian coffee at home. Here is a listing of the farmers of Ka'u. KA'U COFFEE GROWERS

Looking back, it is fascinating to think that this entire world of Ka'u coffee was revealed to us from one lone street sign along Route 11. This is a very rural area of the island. To have the spirit and inclination to "explore" is what traveling is all about. Never plan every waking moment on a trip because you will miss so much. Of course, fair readers, now that you know all about Ka'u Coffee you can plan your excursions to the area accordingly.

LEAP OF FAITH - KA LAE

The cliffs at South Point

The Ka'u district is the southernmost point in the United States. Stand at the tip of the island and stare out onto a great expanse of the Pacific ocean that will not be interrupted until you hit Antarctica! It is thought the first Polynesians who landed on Hawaii did so near South Point somewhere between 400 and 800 AD. Throughout the area of this National Historical Landmark there are ruins of ancient Hawaiian temples.

This desolate area of the island is well worth exploring. Between the actual Point and visiting the green sand of Papakolea beach, expect to spend a good portion of your day. There are no facilities in the area, so make sure you pack a lunch and bring plenty of water. Although South Point Road has been much improved in recent years and is okay to drive, when the pavement ends the road gets very rutted and rough and rental cars companies wouldn't appreciate you driving on them in their cars. So, once you get to the end of the road you will either do a lot of hiking, the green sand of Papakolea beach is 2.5 miles away from the parking area, or you will pay a local to give you a ride out there.

cliff diving at the point

Ka Lae, the Hawaiian name for the Point, is very far off the open road. Turn off Route 11 in the town of Naalehu onto South Point Road and keep going. There are miles of rural open ranch lands as far as you can see. You will pass a line of otherworldly wind mills, but the rest of the scenery is ranch lands with few buildings. The Pacific is far in the distance and as you drive it feels like you are racing towards the end of the world, and when you finally take the right fork in the road and come to the end you literally stand on the cliffs and there's no where else to go except back. It truly seems like the end of the world!

fishing at the point

Now the actual point is a short walk down the "road" where there are no cliffs. But we never got that far for we were mesmerized by the cliff diving. We stood awestruck as we watched several brave souls leap off the cliff into the blue ocean 50 feet below. Friends applauded and photographed them. There evidently is a ladder they used to climb out of the water, but I was not about to lean over the edge to see it for myself. To this day Janet is disappointed she not take the leap herself, but I was quite happy watching from a safe distance.

PAPAKOLEA BEACH

rutted road to Papakolea

We lingered for awhile in the hot sun gazing out onto the endless Pacific watching the divers and locals fishing, but our true reason for venturing out this far was to visit the green sand beach, Papakolea.

green sand beach Hawaii

I have to admit that I love collecting sand wherever I travel and my sand collection includes samples from several continents and countless islands. Mostly the samples are well displayed in small glass jars with tags detailing particulars, sometimes even the date I visited the beach. (There's also a lot other samples in water bottles scattered throughout the house...) Friends too have given me sand as a gift whenever they have the good fortune to visit a place I have not yet graced. My sands are white, red, black, grey and beige, but until today, not green.

Green sand is rare, although olivine, the silicate that is a product of lava, can be fairly common. Some say there are four green sand beaches in the world; on Guam, on the Galapagos Islands, in Norway and the green sand beach in Ka'u. Papakolea Beach is a collapsed cinder cone open to the sea. It last erupted 49,000 years ago. Olivine is denser and tougher than the other materials spewed out by the volcano and tends to accumulate on the beach, while the other materials wash away in the surf. This gives Papakolea its unique coloring.

Punalu'u

Tiny amounts of olivine can be found on many of the black sand beaches of the Big Island, but because they are so geologically young they are still mostly black sand. Two black sand beaches nearby are Punalu'u and Kalapana.

The beach at Punalu'u is easily accessible. You can drive right up to it, but the green sand beach of Papakolea is very remote. From the end of the paved road it is approximately 2.5 miles along the rutted tracks that serve as road. When you drive down South Point Road take the left fork until the end. After this only four wheel drive vehicles are suitable here. There were plenty of locals offering to drive us to the green sand beach for a nominal cost, but we decided to hike it and then pay someone to take us back.

It was dusty and windy and humid and hot. Sunscreen and water and sturdy shoes are necessities. There is no shade from the sun. Also, once you reach the cone you have to descend into it. It is very steep and slow going and there is a severe rake into the water. The water can be very rough. Do not allow the surf to pull you out of the cove. There are no lifeguards. All this seems treacherous, but after a long hike getting into the water to cool off was wonderful and a soothing experience. Curious sea turtles swam nearby. We were definitely aware of the powerful waves here and stayed very close to shore.

When it was time to leave I surreptitiously gathered a sample of sand for my collection, ignoring the weather worn wooden sign that said we shouldn't and we climbed out of the cinder cone. At the top we were approached by a local kid who offered us a ride back to our rental car in his rusty pick up truck. It was the best money I had ever spent. It would have been too much to hike both ways.

Tired and hungry we stopped in at the Shaka Restaurant in Naahelu for a much needed beer and some food. It is the southernmost bar in the United States! I had a Loco Moco and Janet had some Ono. It's a bit of a dive bar, but it's very close to the green sand beach and a great local hang out. Cash only.