Thursday, February 21, 2019

SUNDOWNERS


MALLORY SQUARE
No visit to Key West would be complete without a visit to the Mallory Square Dock for the Sunset Celebration. It is perhaps the island’s most popular activity. Daily, when the weather cooperates, hordes descend on this lively area about 2 hours before that day’s sunset to watch the sun sink into the Gulf of Mexico, its brilliant orange and red hues swirling and illuminating the clouds in a brilliant afterglow. As the sun slowly slips away, the revelry that surrounds the Sunset Celebration, for the square is alive not only with crowds tittering as it awaits this celestial event, but a myriad of street performers, seems to quiet in reverence as the sun completes this inspirational journey and hope they are blessed with a rare green flash. The scientific reason for green flashes is a  refraction of the sun’s light where the upper rim of the sun can turn green, but to behold such a rare phenomenon would probably turn the whimsical town on its head.

SUNSET CELEBRATION

Conchs, as the citizens of Key West are known, never need a good reason to party, and the setting sun is a great reason to gather to see this heavenly display. So beloved is this celebration that Mallory Square’s website posts the time of that day’s sunset, and according to a local ordinance, a cruise ship that may be docked at that pier has to leave port an hour before the sun sets so the view is not impeded.
BUSKERS GALORE
The setting sun is not the only entertainment. Street performers like acrobats, jugglers and singers are everywhere, plying their trade and looking for handouts. There is such a proliferation of them; from some guy in mime face paint telling bad jokes as he eases his entire body through a tennis racket, to a heavily tattooed man juggling knives while balancing on a three-tiered balance board, to a pair of wacky and very talented jugglers who employed several men and a young boy culled from their large gathered crowd to help them with their act, to name just three.

We finally got to experience the Sunset Celebration the day of our trip to Dry Tortugas. The ferry brought us back to Key West with enough time to walk over to Mallory Square. We caught a couple of acts, laughed along with the crowds, oohed and aahed in wonder at the sun, booed lustily in unison with the crowd when a yacht knowingly passed in front of us and momentarily blocked our view of the sunset and when it was over, we found a place to go for a couple of drinks.
OUR SUNSET


Wednesday, February 20, 2019

DRY TORTUGAS

FOR JEFFERSON
Consider the importance of a group of islets in the middle of the Gulf of Mexico, 70 miles from Key West. Barely rising out of the turquoise water the Dry Tortugas are integral in many ways. First sighted by Ponce de Leon in 1513, yeah that youth guy, it was aptly named Tortugas for the amount of sea turtles found here. The sea turtle proved to be an important food source for these early sailors, so, on the maps at the time they labeled this collection of islands, Tortugas, Spanish for turtle. The “dry” part came later as there was no fresh water to be found. Lots of turtles but no water. Also, the Dry Tortugas rise abruptly from the sea and is a deep-water anchorage providing a natural safe harbor for ships to resupply, do repairs and ride out storms.


Though this is a remote cluster of islands, it was integral to the fledgling United States. The Dry Tortugas are at the southern end of the world’s 3rd largest coral reef. The largest is the Great Barrier Reef off the coast of Queensland, Australia and the second is off the coast of Belize. The Florida Keys stretch all the way north to Biscayne Bay and to sail safely in open water to catch the Gulfstream ships had to pass by the Dry Tortugas. Controlling this point secured all shipping from the Mississippi River interior of the United States; America’s heartland; to the rest of the world. If a mighty naval power wanted to cripple the U.S. they would control this crossing point at the Dry Tortugas, disrupting commerce and using it as a staging point to attack anywhere along the gulf coast. Because at the time we didn’t have a strong navy the government commissioned a massive fort on Garden Key, which would take up 85% of the island and capable of being self-sustaining for two years. This massive masonry structure was begun in the 1840’s, worked on for 30 years, but never fully completed. It still proved to be a powerful deterrent. The fearsome display of weapons from the fort were never fired in anger, but showed America’s strength and eagerness to protect itself. Fort Jefferson was a link in a chain of coastal forts that stretched from California to Maine. 



During the Civil War Fort Jefferson served as a prison camp, mostly for Union deserters and its most famous prisoner was Dr. Samuel Mudd, the physician who set John Wilkes Boothe’s leg after he broke it while assassinating President Abraham Lincoln.


Now part of the National Park Service, all this history of the Dry Tortugas and Fort Jefferson is a two-hour ferry ride from Key West and had been on a wish-list for me ever since I first read about it. Janet never heard of this fascinating place, but once I told her about it she was equally intrigued and so we made reservations on the Yankee Freedom III, a high-speed catamaran that makes the trip in a little more than 2 hours. Our passage included all park fees, breakfast and lunch, snorkeling gear and a tour of the fort. On the return trip, they sold inexpensive alcoholic drinks. The interior cabins of the ship were air-conditioned and the crew was professional and accommodating. Private boats are able to dock and there is a seaplane service from Key West.
LAND ACCESS TO BUSH KEY

There is primitive camping on the island, limited capacity and campers are required to bring everything with them, including water. There are no bathroom facilities on the island. When we arrived the Yankee Freedom III was the commode for everyone for our duration.  We were on the island for four hours. We left Key West at 8 am and got back around 5 pm.
After taking a short tour and walking on the top tier of the fort we walked along the moat wall of the fort and marveled at the nesting birds on Bush and Long Key. The shape of the islands is capricious with winds and storms, and Bush Key was currently accessible by land, but closed because of the nesting birds. Bird watching is an active pursuit on the Dry Tortugas and several people got off the ferry with binoculars in tow.


We started snorkeling from the south beach with the idea of making our way around the fort to the north side. We’re somewhat spoiled with our recent diving experiences, and the area around the south beach was not that interesting though we did see a Conch zipping through the grasses. The wall along the north beach sprouted a beautiful array of purple fan coral. The water is clear and so many shades of blue and turquoise that the beauty is stunning. We watched pelicans dive like darts after fish and birds digging in the sands and squawking madly.


Passage on the catamaran was not cheap, approximately $350 for the two of us and parking near the pier was $32 for the day, but the experiences of the day were unique. Janet had a $6 Pina Colada on the return. Breakfast was boiled eggs and ham, cereal yogurt and coffee and juices. We skipped lunch.

Sunday, February 17, 2019

HEARTY AND HALE


RUNNING ON KEY WEST
Despite the incessant revelry that defines Key West running and biking are popular activities here; walking too, but that usually means just ambling on to the next bar on Duval Street.

The wide sidewalks of South and North Roosevelt Boulevard, that circumvents “New” Key West, are great places to run and ride bikes. For a long while the northern portion of the boulevard, which is Route 1, is pleasant with palm trees, despite the busier of the two routes. There’s a lot of commerce on this stretch of the road, but it overlooks several picturesque marinas.  As it nears old Key West and the town center and more businesses pop up the sidewalk narrows. 

South Roosevelt Boulevard is quieter. There are no businesses on this stretch until the road ends just past Smather’s Beach. As the road curves and heads south you pass the airport, but traffic is much lighter here. Running on this part of the Boulevard is nice and Smather’s is a good place to turn back for home.

There are several races held throughout the year, including a half-marathon and there’s a running club called the Southernmost Runners, with several races listed on their calendar.  
DRINKS AT CASA MARINA

BIKING
A lot of people bike on Key West and there are plenty of places to rent. We rented bikes today for $15, the standard price on Key West. The bikes were sturdy with safety lights and locks and we were able to keep them past the rental place’s closing time; we just had to lock them up and put the key in a drop box.  

We went the entire length of Roosevelt Boulevard and when we were on the streets, drivers were generally very nice and patient. Lot's of people ride bikes on Key West. After riding for a bit through town we eventually stopped for drinks at the fancy, Casa Marina Key West overlooking the Atlantic. It was a very glamorous location and we just walked through the hotel, past the pools and grabbed some seats at the beach side bar. Later we ate some incredible tacos at Salsa Loca, just off Duval Street on Angela Street. There were tables in a little courtyard, but we sat at the bar. I had Tacos Carnitas and Janet had Tacos Diablo; Carne Asada and Chorizo. Cheap, but tasty, three tacos were 14.95 and they brought us chips and salsa and rice and refried beans along with the tacos.


WALKING
We left our bikes locked up at Salsa Loca and walked down Duval. Cars were blocked from entering Duval Street for several blocks to provide a temporary pedestrian walkway and we made our way to Greene Street. We opted not to go to Sloppy Joe’s, the bar known for its history with Ernest Hemingway, who lived in Key West for ten years beginning in the early 1930’s. Our resident guide turned us towards Captain Tony’s Saloon, evidently the original site of the original Sloppy Joe’s and Papa’s first true hangout. Whatever, there was music and beer and brassieres and dollar bills hanging from the walls.
CAPTAIN TONY'S

The last stop on this hale and hearty pub crawl was in the enchanting but hard to find Chart Room Bar at 1 Duval Street. The place is nestled in the Pier House Resort & Spa which was sort of built all around it. Cozy, quiet, the Chart Room also had free hot dogs and popcorn. What more can anyone ask for!?

THE CHART ROOM


Friday, February 15, 2019

IS IT A PARTY IF IT HAPPENS EVERY NIGHT?


KEY WEST REVELRY
This humble scribe is a light weight when it comes to partying. If I lived on Key West I would have to adapt or die. We have friends who have lived here for a while and had to leave because it got to be too much revelry…and they are heavy hitter, swing for the fences types.

Yesterday was Thursday, and we only scratched the surface of the available antics on Key West. The night started when we met friends for an incredible meal at Little Pearl where we shared appetizers like Bangkok Octopus and Spicy Tuna Tartare Burlee before moving on to our meals of Sauteed Local Snapper, Grilled Swordfish and Grilled Wahoo. It’s difficult to get a table at Little Pearl, but we had an inside connection.
 
MARY ELLEN'S KEY WEST
Then it was on to vibrator races at Mary Ellen’s. Yes, vibrators. The girls had bourbon drinks while we had some local beers.

Then it was on to Tropic Cinema the local bijou for a sing-a-long to Little Shop of Horrors. Many in the crowd were dressed appropriately. There were several Audrey’s, one wearing a tight-fitting leopard skin dress, an Audrey II with a big head who asked if my name was Seymour, and one guy in leathers looking like Steve Martin’s character in the movie. We got drinks before we entered the theater. They served 90 Minute IPAs from Dogfish Head! We sang and laughed along with the crowd.
Then it was on to the Green Parrot. It was bustling. A band was playing. The bass player looked like Borat and the crowd swayed to the music. We were drinking Coronas infused with Patron tequila. Eventually we left and we weaved along the fairly quiet streets passing places like Better Than Sex, a dessert restaurant until we happened upon a bar with karaoke blaring from the open doors. It was already past midnight and our friends offered us a ride back to the Coconut Mallory Resort, so we didn’t stay. I was drunk anyway.

I told you I was a light weight.

AND...THEY ARE OFF!

.



CONTACT HIGH


KEY WEST FIRST IMPRESSIONS
From the beautiful rustic lower Keys we drove in the dreary rain towards Key West yesterday afternoon. Our dive planned for the morning at the Looe Key Coral Reef was cancelled because of the horrific downpour and lightning. But nothing prepared us for the shock of Key West. As rural and wild and soothing were the lower keys like Ramrod, Little Torch and Big Pine Keys, the bustling, weaving traffic along North Roosevelt Boulevard in rain slicked Key West that brimmed with commerce was disturbing. We traveled all this way, over a hundred miles from Miami, and it felt like the Jersey shore.  

Having gotten an earlier than usual start on the day because we couldn’t dive, we had lots of time to kill before we were able to check into our accommodations, the Coconut Mallory Marina & Resort. Located on A1A just on the edge of Key West Janet got us a great deal through Bookings.com with a steep discount.
Undaunted by the bad timing and the seemingly bad destination, we used our time wisely with a tour of Key West via Old Town Trolley. We always like taking a tour of a new place. It’s informative and often a hidden nugget of information about a place is learned. Also, there is an option of hopping off and on all day with these tours, but we used the tour as a way of getting in out the rain, and to see a lot of Key West.

WHY A DUCK?
Why not a chicken? Oh, the things we learned while on our tour.
Like why there are chickens all over the place? Answer: Legend has it that Cuban refugees love for cock fighting supplied the game cocks for this blood sport that is now illegal. The birds were released and are now protected and have full run of Key West.

Like, why do all the buildings have metal roofs? Answer: A city ordinance was passed after a devastating fire burned most of the city in the early 1900’s requiring this roof style, evidently as a way of suppressing fire.

Like, Key West was once the richest city in Florida because of wrecking.

Before the advent of steam ships the coastal waters of the keys were treacherous for sailing ships and when a ship ran aground and foundered it was big business to salvage as much of the cargo as possible, and even the wood of the ship itself. This was called wrecking and there was a whole hierarchy system among the salvagers and everyone involved made a lot of money. When the steam ships technology started ships were no longer pushed about by the capricious winds and the salvaging market stopped abruptly. Key West went from a booming town to a nearly abandoned ghost town. It remained this way for a long time before actively becoming a tourist destination point.

WHERE ARE YOU FROM?
We parked at Mallory Square to catch the Trolley. The square is in old Key West and is famous for its Sunset Celebration where crowds gather daily to see watch the sun set. Music and dancing are part of the antics. I was there years ago to experience the revelry, but this day with all the rain the party was not to be.
We instead went for a beer at the Green Parrot bar on Whitehead Street, a block from Route 1’s Mile Marker 0 sign. It is a lively, friendly place and a favorite of friends who visit Key West frequently; we had to make a point of visiting. While sipping our Cigar City beers we more than once fielded the query “where are you from?” It wasn’t prying, but almost like a secret handshake between fraternity brothers. It seems everyone in Key West is from somewhere else, and everyone was very happy that they were here and not where they were from. Whether it was for a few days, a few months or a few decades it became very obvious that being in Key West was for everyone.

The Green Parrot does not serve food, but next door, Charlie Mac has the BEST smoked chicken wings. It’ll make you jump up and slap yourself.

Thanks for reading, another question... Why DIDN'T the chicken cross the road? She was waiting for happy hour at the Green Parrot! 

Thursday, February 14, 2019

LOOE KEY CORAL REEF


DIVING DELAYED 
The Looe Key Coral Reef is a protected reef, meaning it is there only for research. Spearfishing, lobster harvesting or collecting of tropical fish is not allowed. There is no touching of the coral within this fragile and finite marine sanctuary. Lying about 5 miles south of Big Pine Key, this reef is home to a myriad of fish, from parrot fish and grunts, to barracudas and butterflyfish, sharks and goliath groupers.

Looe Key is a spur-and-groove reef with fingers of coral extending out to sea. Although the reef, named after the HMS Looe which ran aground and sank in 1744, lies completely underwater, it never really gets that deep, perhaps 25 feet at the most. Home to roughly 150 species of fish it is a great place for the snorkeling and diving.
LOOE KEY CORAL REEF

Years ago my son and I went snorkeling in this pristine area and Janet and I planned a diving trip today with the Looe Key Dive Resort, where we had stayed a couple of nights on our way to Key West. The quiet, serene lower keys seemed appropriate a place for Looe Key and the allure of coral undamaged by the hordes that descend on the reefs near Key West or Key Largo quickly convinced us into signing up for a morning dive.

Alas, it was not to be. We awoke to thunder and lightning. An afternoon dive was already scratched because of the strong winds, but the inclement weather forced the resort to cancel the morning dive. Perhaps on our return we’ll get to dive before we head to the upper keys.

Wednesday, February 13, 2019

BAHIA HONDA AND NO NAME PUB


LIFE IN THE FLORIDA KEYS
Our first full day in the Florida Keys was a relaxing, unplanned day of exploring and lounging about. After barely getting out of the northeast winter weather and driving about 100 miles to get to our first stop at the Looe Key Reef Dive Resort, we needed a day like this.

COFFEE
After sleeping in the first order of “business” was coffee and Janet (of course) found the 7 Mile Café & Kava Bar (and Vape Shop) a few miles back on Big Pine Key. As we waited for our extra-strong brews the overly zealous barista with her sky-blue eyes twinkling, her mammoth breasts swaying, her numerous tattoos jiggling, gleefully told us about every aspect of her life, about her children and about how important marijuana was in her life.

JANET’S WAY
Now, usually I’m the one who likes to go on meandering drives, but Janet expressed an interest in driving through Middle and Big Torch Key and who was I to refuse. Turning right off Route 1 we entered what we thought was a desolate land. For a long stretch the road was bordered by water or wildlife sanctuary, and then we’d pass a beautiful house. No shacks located on these islands. Then more land, then a few more houses. The road twisted like this for around 10 miles and ending eventually at a guardrail where the pavement was littered with broken glass. It was a nice drive, but we had to consult Dr. Beach


BAHIA HONDA STATE PARK
Sandspur Beach at this state park was once voted the 1992 National Winner by Dr. Beach, Stephen Leatherman, one of the world’s foremost beach experts. The good doctor’s website is a great resource for finding that special beach.
BAHIA HONDA WITH BRIDGE

Bahia Honda, which means in Spanish “Deep Bay” is situated near the still majestic looking wreckage of the Bahia Honda railroad bridge, part of the Overseas Railroad started by Henry Flagler. The devastating Labor Day Hurricane destroyed much of the train line and the bridge was converted for vehicular traffic before the current road was built.

The more recent Hurricane Irma did a number on Sandspur and Bahia Honda. When I first visited this place 15 years ago, I marveled at the beauty. The sand was pure white, the water crystalline. While snorkeling in the water I saw conch and octopus. It was fascinating. Sadly, today the park was still in a state of repair. Janet really enjoyed the stop though and we walked the grounds, eyed the bridge, sat on the beach at Sandspur for a while before heading to Calusa Beach on the other side.

There is camping, cabins and boat mooring available at Bahia Honda. There’s an entrance fee of $4.50 per person with no “discrimination” towards older folks, i.e. senior citizen discount. 

YOU FOUND IT
The famous No Name Pub is one of the oldest bars in the Florida Keys. Once a brothel, now a pub, No Name Pub is a bit out of the way near the end of Big Pine Key. Dollar bills, many with notes and doodles have been stapled to the walls over the years. The bills undulate with the capriciousness of air currents inside the pub, looking like a coral reef flowing with the movement of the water.

NO NAME PUB 

Evidently during the 1970’s and 80’s a lot of people got rich smuggling marijuana through the Keys and many of these “nouveau riche’ began hanging some extra bucks on the walls adding something close to $90,000 over the years.

Historic, funky and boasting perhaps the best pizza in the keys, No Name Pub was a great place for lunch, though a little pricey for casual food. I had a Caribbean chicken personal pizza and Janet had a subpar fish and chips. We split a very nice order of conch fritters.


We ended our day back at the Tiki Bar at the Looe Key Reef Dive Resort to have a drink and to listen to a band that played everything from Jimmy Buffett to the Rolling Stones to the Average White Band. The place was packed with patrons. It was taco Tuesday after all.


  

Tuesday, February 12, 2019

ESCAPE


TIMING IS EVERYTHING
The weather forecast appropriately called for a lot of snow and a lot of ice in the thriving and lively Philadelphia suburb of Collegeville and had we lingered any longer our escape to the warm climes of Florida would have probably been delayed by the inclement and nasty weather. Turns out though we were early for our flight, once boarded we were delayed by a self-indulged delusional passenger who refused to put his seat up when asked repeatedly by the flight crew. His insolence eventually forced the plane back to the gate and a visit by the Philadelphia Police Department. Everyone had to deplane before five cops escorted him off. As he shouted obscenities the gathered crowd at the gate cheered.

With this incident and the necessary de-icing our escape to Miami was delayed three hours.

It was worth the wait.

THE FLORIDA KEYS
Our ultimate destination is Key West, the largest island in the Florida Keys archipelago; a 120 mile stretch of tropical islands curving away from the south Florida coast. We could have flown into Key West, but we wanted to explore and stop along the way. Traveling through the Keys is as important as the destination. There is much to see and do and we planned to take 3 days to drive its length, with a two night stop to go diving at the Looe Key Dive Resort on Ramrod Key, so the insanity of our departure did not impact us gravely. We had ample time on our hands.


So, we got a car. Always book a car ahead of time to save money, and sometimes it pays to go through a foreign website to save some money, but never scrimp on the insurance. It’s not worth the extra hassle while on a trip like this. And, while in Florida it’s best to sign up for their EZ Pass when offered by the car rental company. It seemed like a scam at first, but there are tolls everywhere in the Miami area and no toll booths only scanners arching over the roadways, so no chance to pay cash and there are no warnings that a toll is coming up. Rather than pay a surcharge for each indiscretion it’s best to pay up front.  We could have driven along city streets and picked our way to Route 1, the main thoroughfare to Key West, but that would have added over an hour to our already lengthy trip.

WHEN IN THE KEYS….
Despite the distance, the speed limit is roughly 45 miles per hour. There’s such a big mash up of people hurtling along and tourists and locals that Route 1 can be treacherous if not careful so the lower speeds are good. In the upper keys like Key Largo, Islamorada and Marathon there’s a lot of commerce and weaving from drivers entering and exiting the road, while in the lower keys the endangered Key Deer species are protected by lowered speed limits, especially at night and is strictly enforced by the police.

We stopped for lunch at the Sunrise Cuban Market and Café in Tavernier for some Café Con Leche and Cuban Sandwiches. It’s a bit of a hole in the wall, but the staff is friendly, the sandwiches are expansive and the coffee is strong. They also sell cigars and there’s a full, if spare, market in the back.

LOOE KEY DIVE RESORT 
Eons ago my son and I went snorkeling with the Looe Key Dive Resort on Ramrod Key and now certified as a scuba diver (Janet is Open Water) I wanted to return. Because we wanted to spend some time in the keys before we got to Key West, I thought this would be a great place to spend a few days..


Not only do they have a dive shop they have a modest and modestly priced motel, a pool and a vast Tiki Bar with dinner specials and bands playing every night. Our first night the crowd was somewhat spare, but tonight (Tuesday) it’s Taco Night and the place is brimming and the music is blaring. Lot’s of locals, many with their dogs lapping from the same beer as they or filching fries from their human’s dishes. There’s a very convivial feel to the place, very low key and exactly what one would expect from the Florida Keys. This is a wonderful escape from the snows of home.

We dive tomorrow.

Sunday, February 10, 2019

FLY ME TO THE MOON

WORKING TO TRAVEL
I used to travel by air for work extensively and compiled quite a lot of frequent flyer miles over the years. I had a Gold card with the now defunct TWA, and I had committed my American Airlines frequent flyer number to memory. I had amassed so many miles on so many airlines, I flew my family free to Spain, Jamaica and Mexico, as well as three trips to Hawaii, as well as a number of smaller trips.

Well, that phase of my working life ended eons ago and, while all those accumulated miles lasted for several years, they eventually were all used up. What to do when you still want to travel, but the sticker shock for something that was once free hits you? Why instead of traveling for work, you have to work to travel, or more correctly, live to travel.

COST OF LIVING = FREE FLIGHTS
When Janet first signed up for a credit card that gave her bonus miles on American Airlines, I was dubious. I didn’t think it was worth the yearly fee of $95, but when she also linked our home’s utility bills to the card along with extra bonus miles included in that, her frequent flyer miles quickly added up. I quickly became a fan.  

Now whenever possible our frequent flyer accounts are linked to any available freebies and it has paid off handsomely. This year we are taking two major trips: Croatia in July to sail through the Dalmatian islands, and, the Bahamas next December. Air travel for both trips is free because of our endeavors. Janet is also using miles to fly to Austin next month.
LOVE ISLAND IN CROATIA
We garnered the required miles, (90,000 for me alone), by signing up for the Aadvantage Aviator credit card and it’s 60,000 bonus miles. This alone was enough for flying to Dubrovnik. Using the card for travel, incidentals and the normal acquisition of miles from the regular frequent flyer program made the 30,000 miles necessary for the Bahamas trip a breeze… get it a pun.

BEER = MILES
As a loyal flyer with American Airlines there are other ways of garnering miles. One is their Dining Out program. Link a credit card to the program and miles are awarded whenever an establishment listed on the website is visited. Sadly, I cannot link my Planet Fitness monthly membership fee to this program, but the Sly Fox Brewery is conveniently located in the same strip mall in Phoenixville. After a workout I’ll go for a well-deserved beer and earn miles.


OPINION = MILES
The adage is: opinions are like butt-holes, everyone’s got one. Well, with American Airlines they also reward you for your opinion. Sign up to this survey program, link a frequent flyer number to the account and opine away. One may think the ROI is small for this; 50 or 40 miles if accepted in a particular survey; but every bit helps. It certainly beats having to open the wallet.

This is just a small sampling of available ways of getting frequent flyer miles. If you have a new one to share, leave Team VFH a note.

Thanks for reading, and wherever you go, travel well.

Love Janet and greg