LIFE IN THE FLORIDA KEYS
Our first
full day in the Florida Keys was a relaxing, unplanned day of exploring and
lounging about. After barely getting out of the northeast winter weather and
driving about 100 miles to get to our first stop at the Looe Key Reef Dive
Resort, we needed a day like this.
COFFEE
After
sleeping in the first order of “business” was coffee and Janet (of course) found
the 7 Mile Café & Kava Bar (and Vape Shop) a few miles back on Big Pine Key.
As we waited for our extra-strong brews the overly zealous barista with her sky-blue
eyes twinkling, her mammoth breasts swaying, her numerous tattoos jiggling, gleefully
told us about every aspect of her life, about her children and about how
important marijuana was in her life.
JANET’S WAY
Now,
usually I’m the one who likes to go on meandering drives, but Janet expressed
an interest in driving through Middle and Big Torch Key and who was I to
refuse. Turning right off Route 1 we entered what we thought was a desolate
land. For a long stretch the road was bordered by water or wildlife sanctuary, and
then we’d pass a beautiful house. No shacks located on these islands. Then more
land, then a few more houses. The road twisted like this for around 10 miles
and ending eventually at a guardrail where the pavement was littered with
broken glass. It was a nice drive, but we had to consult Dr. Beach
BAHIA HONDA STATE PARK
Sandspur Beach
at this state park was once voted the 1992 National Winner by Dr. Beach, Stephen
Leatherman, one of the world’s foremost beach experts. The good doctor’s
website is a great resource for finding that special beach.
BAHIA HONDA WITH BRIDGE |
Bahia Honda, which means in Spanish “Deep Bay” is situated near the still majestic looking wreckage of the Bahia Honda railroad bridge, part of the Overseas Railroad started by Henry Flagler. The devastating Labor Day Hurricane destroyed much of the train line and the bridge was converted for vehicular traffic before the current road was built.
The more
recent Hurricane Irma did a number on Sandspur and Bahia Honda. When I first visited
this place 15 years ago, I marveled at the beauty. The sand was pure white, the
water crystalline. While snorkeling in the water I saw conch and octopus. It
was fascinating. Sadly, today the park was still in a state of repair. Janet really
enjoyed the stop though and we walked the grounds, eyed the bridge, sat on the
beach at Sandspur for a while before heading to Calusa Beach on the other side.
There is
camping, cabins and boat mooring available at Bahia Honda. There’s an entrance
fee of $4.50 per person with no “discrimination” towards older folks, i.e.
senior citizen discount.
YOU FOUND IT
The
famous No Name Pub is one of the oldest bars in the Florida Keys. Once a
brothel, now a pub, No Name Pub is a bit out of the way near the end of Big
Pine Key. Dollar bills, many with notes and doodles have been stapled to the
walls over the years. The bills undulate with the capriciousness of air currents
inside the pub, looking like a coral reef flowing with the movement of the
water.
NO NAME PUB |
Evidently
during the 1970’s and 80’s a lot of people got rich smuggling marijuana through
the Keys and many of these “nouveau riche’ began hanging some extra bucks on
the walls adding something close to $90,000 over the years.
Historic,
funky and boasting perhaps the best pizza in the keys, No Name Pub was a great
place for lunch, though a little pricey for casual food. I had a Caribbean chicken
personal pizza and Janet had a subpar fish and chips. We split a very nice order
of conch fritters.
We ended
our day back at the Tiki Bar at the Looe Key Reef Dive Resort to have a drink
and to listen to a band that played everything from Jimmy Buffett to the
Rolling Stones to the Average White Band. The place was packed with patrons. It
was taco Tuesday after all.
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