PANAMA and IGUANA ISLAND

ISTHMUS BE MY LUCKY DAY

The history of Panama is somewhat complicated, although while waiting on the Playa El Cirial a beautiful long white sandy stretch on Iguana Island off the eastern coast of the Azuero Peninsula, it certainly seemed tranquil enough. The water was placid, the sky azure. It was hot though and a languid breeze did not cool us as we sat in the shade. Hundreds of hermit crabs did a cha cha along the sand and we busied ourselves ogling them as we waited and sweated and waited some more.

 

Keeping Iguana Island safe

Though the water was inviting we were told not to venture from our shady spot. We were waiting for the Panamanian Public Forces to finish checking our paperwork.

The Greek crewman, who spoke no Spanish, had piloted the zodiac tender to shore and was challenged there by a ranger. There was a bit of shoulder shrugging and it took a good while to clear things up. Ominously, as we waited, a Panamanian patrol boat with several men wearing balaclavas and flak jackets and carrying guns pulled up to join the party. Costa Rica abolished her military after a bloody civil war in 1948. Panama also abolished its standing army after the United States' Operation 'Just Cause' overthrew the military dictatorship of Manuel Noriega in 1989, but the country still maintains a small air and maritime force.

This is MY island

It was supposed to be a simple relaxing day of swimming and snorkeling at the Iguana Island Wildlife Refuge, in the morning and afternoon, with a quick trip to the M/S Panorama for lunch in between, but the morning was taken up by the logistics of travel. There was just enough time to walk to the other side of the island to see the frigate nesting site, before it was time for lunch.

BOMBS AWAY

Dodging spiders and iguanas and ever mindful to not deviate from the trail lest we find some ordnance left over from World War II when the U.S. military used Iguana island for target practice, we crossed the island to see the frigate colony and admire the surf at the secluded El Faro beach near there, before heading back to Cirial and then back to the Panorama. Indeed, one highlight of our little hike, the island is just 136 acres, was to peer into a massive bomb crater.

IDYLLIC TODAY

As I waited my turn for the tender to return to the Panorama, I stepped into the ankle-deep water to watch pufferfish lazily swim in the coral just below the water’s surface and several little red fish swirled around my feet looking for some nutrients I disturbed with my steps. The water was very clear and felt, despite the bomb crater and that history, all very untamed and unspoiled. Though Panama has the canal, over 40% of the country is still rainforest. Much of the population is concentrated near the canal, leaving places like Coiba Island and Iguana Island largely alone and rural.

Iguana Island is considered the top snorkeling spot in Panama and later that afternoon some of us were dropped off to enjoy the water and the views. It took all day to get to swim, but it was worth it. I came away feeling fortunate I was able to see Iguana Island. There is no way I would have found this place on my own without our guide and though I might have wanted to lounge about more on Cirial I know those hermit crabs would have the last say on that.

Iguana Island & M/S Panorama 

Tourism is growing in Panama and maybe the quiet serenity of places like Iguana Island may not survive. The government offers tax and price discounts to foreign travelers and retirees and the number of venders offering tourist destinations have steadily increased over the years with these visitor incentives. Actively pushing tourism and the income it generates it now accounts for roughly 9% of Panama’s GNP.  

I’m glad we were able to visit Panama now.

Thanks for reading.

© 2020 by Greg Dunaj

Wearing an official Vacations From Home t-shirt