Saturday, September 30, 2023

PLANNING FOR SEVILLE

THE DETAILS OF TRAVELING  
Janet getting it right

Janet is driven and meticulous. She loves details and will plan a trip that has no surprises. She will hunt for the best deals and the best reviews. She does not rest until satisfied. 
Comparatively, I am like a goldfish swimming from one end of the tank to the other. I turn around and it’s a whole new completely fresh experience for me.  
My version of traveling is like a headless chicken running into walls and off cliffs.
Because of Janet and my infinite intelligence in knowing when to stay out of things, our recent trip to Seville was seamless.
Janet took care of everything. She arranged our travel, arranged our apartment, arranged our tour itinerary, arranged the train and the car rental, and even packed the bags!
Here are some of the details of our trip (courtesy of Janet):
Our front door on the 
Plaza Alfaro
GETTING THERE
Ryanair
This low-cost, bare bones carrier flies nearly everywhere in Europe from England. The latest on their website has flights starting at £25.19 each way to Seville, but we always pay for upgrades like having priority seating and checked luggage, and even carry-on luggage. The trip can be hectic; after we’re seated the hordes stampede for the leftover seats. Navigating the website is arduous, even Janet gets frustrated by it which is saying a lot.
Ryanair will get you there but be prepared to pay for water.

Weather 
Janet even monitored the weather. Our trips to Europe usually piggyback off visits to Nantwich and family. Janet planned this trip to Spain in early September, after the grandchildren started school again, and because we thought the weather would be cooler. 
Janet getting it right

Seville is one of the hottest cities on the European continent and was suffering through an extended extreme heat wave this past summer. Seville after all, is closer to Rabat the capital of Morocco than Madrid.
We watched the forecast in the weeks leading up to Spain and the days hovered near 110°F. By the time we arrived though temperatures began to ‘cool’ into the high 80s and low 90s.

How hot was it?
We took a walking tour of the Cathedral and the Alcazar Palace, and our tour guide spoke of the heat stroke he had suffered earlier during the summer and was laid up for 10 days. Our tour guide in Cordoba spoke about how she wanted to go to someplace cold for her vacation.
Our view of the 
Alcazar gardens

Here’s an interesting article about the Seville heat:

STAYING THERE
Airbnb on Alfaro Plaza
Janet booked us an Airbnb in the heart of the most touristed area of Seville, the Santa Cruz Barrio. The massive wooden doors that led to our courtyard were on the charming Plaza Alfaro. Despite the location and the parade of tour groups, we never felt overrun.

One end of Alfaro Plaza led to the Jardines de Murillo, where I would run, and the view from one side of the apartment overlooked the Alcazar gardens. Down below Calle Aqua followed the wall of the gardens and if we were lucky, we’d see a peacock strutting along the top. The interior courtyard of our Airbnb was serene with flowers and a fountain. We were on the third floor, but there were elevators!

Santa Cruz was once the Jewish section of town, and the winding streets and alleys of the barrio are at times so narrow people can lean over from one balcony to kiss someone on the balcony across the “street”.

Santa Cruz Barrio

Nearly everything we wanted to see in Seville was within a short walking distance of our roomy apartment.

Again, Janet found us the perfect place. Here is the Airbnb listing:

AIRBNB LISTING IN SEVILLE

GETTING AROUND

Tours

Janet planned much of our itinerary while in Seville and Cordoba and Ronda. She researched availability and contacted the personal guides and negotiated the times and costs. Here is a quick list of what she had us doing:

Cathedral and Alcazar Palace Tour

The Giralda
Through the Naturanda tour company we took a four-hour, very informative and entertaining walking tour of the Seville Cathedral and the Alcazar Palace. We paid for the tour in advance and had our tickets printed out before we even left the United States. The best part about taking this tour was bypassing all the lines getting into either destination. 
Try to get Ismail for your guide.

Tapas Tour

Shawn runs Azahar Tours, and she led us through 4 different Tapas bars, with drinks included. She also provided us a “cheat sheet” with other places to go while in Seville, Cordoba and Ronda, with recommendations as to what to order. She also introduced us to the dry, aged, Oloroso Sherry.
Casa Morales

 
While we were in Seville we went to several of the tapas bars she recommended and even returned to two she brought us to on our tour with her. We went to restaurants she recommended in Cordoba and Ronda.
This was another win for Janet.


Cordoba Tour

When we finally met Isabel for our personal walking tour of the walled city of Cordoba the two women greeted each other with hugs like old friends meeting up once again, so meticulous was Janet’s planning with countless emails.
CASA ANDALUSI

Isabel Martinez was a great tour guide and even recommended several "patios" to visit in Cordoba before our tour began in the afternoon. Patios are museum/homes open to the public which give a glimpse into 12th Century homes in Andalusia with Moorish influences. We chose to visit Casa Andaulusi.

Part of the tour was visiting the massive Mosque Cathedral. We were told to purchase tickets before leaving home. Janet came prepared with the tickets in hand. To contact Isabel:

Train:

Janet arranged for the tickets to Cordoba online ahead of time and printed out our tickets before we left for Spain. We had to pick out our departure and return times. The price was approximately €18 for round trip tickets. Seats were assigned as well.


RENFE TRAIN SYSTEM SPAIN


Car:

Janet made all the arrangements. I handed her my credit card.
She even prepaid for a parking spot in Ronda. And, planning our trip she made sure that we stopped at Oleum Virfide to buy Andalusian olive oil, making sure it wasn’t too out of the way. We did linger a bit to admire a shepherd and his flock of sheep picking their way down the mountain before driving through one of the Pueblos Blancos of Andalusia, Zahara de la Sierra.
ZAHARA DE LA SIERRA

OLEUM VIRIDE OLIVE OIL

ZAHARA DE LA SIERRA

Cooking Class:

Janet researched and purchased two spots in a Spanish cooking class and a tour of the Triana Market with the Taller Andaluz de Cocina.
My darling wife is already an accomplished cook!
We made gazpacho, a Sevillian tapas of Spinach and chickpeas, Valencian Paella, and for dessert a lemon sorbet with cava.
Getting it right

TALLER ANDALUZ DE COCINA


Flamenco Show:

Janet researched and purchased tickets to a Flamenco show at Tablao Los Gallos which was literally just around the corner from our apartment on Plaza Alfaro. Just an hour and 15 minutes long the show featured two women dancers and a male dancer, three singers and two guitarists.

Yep, Janet did it all. She even worked on brushing up on her high school Spanish in the weeks leading to our trip. By the end of our time in Seville she was ordering in Spanish.

I on the other hand only know how to say:  ¿Dónde está el baño... rápido?

Thanks for reading and thank you Janet!

Amor a todos.

© 2023 by Gregory Dunaj


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