VACATIONS FROM HOME: POSTCARDS YOU CAN WEAR

HAOLES 'R US

What does "Aloha" mean anyway? It is a warm greeting, it is a farewell, it is an expression of love. But, it is a spirit, a way of life lived with joy and elan. Hawaii is Aloha and the mana, what Hawaiians call this powerful energy, can be the secret to attaining true health, happiness, prosperity and success. If you are fortunate to visit Hawaii your senses will be caressed by the warm sun, the trade winds, the beauty of the land and of her people and you too will be imbued with Aloha.

Off-Islanders have been infected with Aloha Spirit for generations. As Hawaiian tourism grew, first with the famed "White Ships" of the Matson passenger line bringing boatloads of visitors in the 1920's and the 30's and then Pan Am Airlines with their initial "Clipper" flight in 1935, more and more people were enchanted by this alluring string of islands. Waikiki and swaying palms, hula dancers and ukuleles were so different and exotic that when people had to return to their homes they wanted reminders of this land. It came to be that the roomy Aloha shirt not only proved you were actually there, but it served as a reminder of the happy, relaxed, whimsical and loving Aloha Spirit. Simply wearing an Aloha Shirt forces one to slow down and smile. Donning a beautiful artistically designed Aloha Shirt depicting colorful island scenes and flowers is like wearing a postcard that you can share with everyone around you.

Of course some people consider Aloha Shirts loud and because sometimes the audacious colors are not found in nature or may feature bottles of Tabasco or martini glasses, they will view the "Hawaiian" shirt as the tackiest article of clothing out there (followed by Spandex on anyone even just slightly overweight). Homer Simpson once pronounced that only two kind of men wear Hawaiian shirts, gays and Big Fat Party Animals. To all those less appreciative of this beautiful art form, where paradise can be worn, ( including Janet), I simply smile warmly and offer them a shaka.

After all there is a sense of cultural pride in the Aloha shirt for the Hawaiian people. They are still mostly made in Hawaii, even though the first "Aloha" shirt was probably made by a Japanese tailor in the early 1900's who took cloth earmarked for a kimono and made a roomy shirt with buttons in front. This was a more suitable design for the hot, humid weather of Hawaii than the traditional clothing Chinese and Japanese plantation workers typically wore. The shirts with the bold designs were a big hit with the Navy crews stationed in or passing through Hawaii and with Hollywood actors. Bing Crosby wore Aloha Shirts in many 'Road Movies' he starred in with Bob Hope. At one point the popularity of the Aloha Shirt was so strong that in Honolulu there were over 200 tailors feeding the need of tourists and residents alike. And, government employees have the legal right to wear Hawaiian Shirts instead of more formal business attire. In a move first started in 1947 and called "Aloha Week" the law allowed employees to wear shirts with the tails outside of the trousers. By design this movement helped promote pride in Hawaiian culture and traditions, which after World War 2 was sorely needed. Collective Hawaiian self-esteem and the very culture and identity of the native Hawaiian had been buried for too long. This movement proved so popular Aloha Week lasted an entire month and led to Aloha Wednesday's and people were urged to "dress Hawaiian." By the way, the "casual Friday" movement many companies allow today had its genesis with the Aloha Week/Wednesday movements.

Despite this rich history Janet still put her foot down on this recent trip to Hawaii and only allowed me to purchase one shirt and that pattern had to meet her approval before I made the cherished purchase. I already have a number of Aloha shirts and she stringently urged me to look for more toned down patterns. Truthfully I am going in that direction already. Though a lot of today's shirts are wacky "chop suey", with crazy ultra busy patterns, I have begun to favor vintage or vintage-looking designs from the Aloha shirts Golden Age, which is anything from the 1950's to the 70;s. Some may argue that the Golden Age is even earlier with the designs of Alfred Shaheen in the 40's and other collectors will state the 30's with designs from Musa-Shiya the Shirtmaker, the Kamehameha Garment Company, Malihini and Kuu-Ipo, to name a few, as the true classic designed shirts. Whatever, I can't afford any one of them. But I can afford modern replicas. These are shirts made with modifications from a classic design. I happen to have a modern replica of the shirt worn by Montgomery Cliff in "From Here To Eternity," albeit in silk and white.

FROM HERE TO ETERNITY

Then there are true replicas made of these glorious designs, where the shirt is measured and recreated using materials as close as possible to the original.

Now, the Hawaiian shirt is so ubiquitous you need not travel to Hawaii to get one and it is a favorite pastime for me is to go through second hand shops to search for Aloha Shirts. I won't be finding a Musa-Shiya the Shirtmaker label in a Salvation Army, but I've found some very "interesting" ones over the years.... and I wear them all.

What do I look for? Well, the overall design and coloring of the shirt has to appeal to me. I like it that the pocket and plackets match. The design is unbroken this way and is more appealing. Coconut shell buttons or metal buttons are a plus, though not a purchase breaker. And, then of course is the label inside. If it says made in Hawaii I won't put the shirt back on the rack!

You would think with all this love and attention given to this unique piece of fashion history, my first stop in Hawaii would be at a Salvation Army store. Until this trip to Hawaii I had never thought to go to one, but this time I made up for it. In all we visited four different Salvation Army second hand shops, three on Maui and one in Hilo. It was as if I had gone to heaven. There were some dogs, but I was able to pick out about one hundred shirts....Janet let me buy one.

The next trip to Hawaii I will have to get to a tailor for a custom made shirt. There are still several out there ready to create their art for me in Honolulu. In Hilo too there was a high end tailor shop on Kamehameha Avenue. Shirts could be purchased off the rack or custom made with their materials, or with materials the customer would provide. Janet dragged me out of Sig Zane by my ear, but I swear to you next time I shall return for a good shirt.