THE 8TH WONDER OF THE WORLD

THE KINZUA VIADUCT

With our Circadian Rhythms intact because rain prevented us from stargazing at Cherry Spring State Park the night before we had the entire day to do something. We did not have to sleep in and recover from a late night of peering into the Milky Way. So, we lingered at the Crittenden Hotel in lovely Coudersport PA, located at the traffic light, and eventually took our breakfast at the Tea Room and Café down the street. I had an egg sandwich on a bagel and Janet had Eggs Benedict. The café is neat and clean, and the food was great, and the portions were filling.

THE TEAROOM AND CAFE IN COUDERSPORT 

GET YOUR KICKS ON ROUTE 6

We decided to drive about an hour west on Route 6 to the Kinzua viaduct. A long time ago I saw a picture of this soaring edifice first erected in the late 1800’s and thought it was the most frightening thing possible. This train trestle that spanned the gorge looked spindly and eerie and I thought it would be impossible to support the trains that would utilize it. 

 

THE KINZUA GORGE BRIDGE

For a long while it was quite safe and durable. Soaring over 300 feet in the air the viaduct was the longest and tallest such span in the world at that time and the fascination with this engineering marvel was global. People would travel from Pittsburgh and Buffalo just to see the structure and take excursion train rides over it.  It was as tall as the Statue of Liberty! The Kinzua viaduct though was a financially feasible move. First completed in the 1880’s the train trestle spanned the Kinzua gorge and shortened the trip to Buffalo enough to justify the cost. Pennsylvania had abundant resources of coal, timber and hemlock bark used for tanning and the train systems needed to feed the industrialization of the country.

Kinzua was first constructed with iron, but 18 years later as trains got heavier the structure was replaced with steel and remained in use commercially until 1959 and became part of the Pennsylvania Park System in 1963 and in 1987 a 97-mile round trip excursion train line from Marienville to the park was offered and would cross the viaduct, turn around on the other far side of the gorge and go over it again. The Knox, Kane, Kinzua train line operated until 2002 when needed repairs to the aging structure were started. Then in July 2003 a tornado ripped half the structure down. Pennsylvania then repurposed the wreckage to create the Kinzua Bridge sky walk and visitors can walk a 300-foot restored section that leads to an observation deck offering soaring views of the gorge and the wreckage of the rest of the bridge.

SHELTER FROM THE STORM

There is now a pristine visitor center offering interactive displays and movies and there is a rail to trail course from Mt. Jewett to the Bridge Park opening next month. The remnants of the steel bridge jutting out into an unsettling expanse of air can be seen safely from the visitor center, but we HAD to brave the heights. Just a few steps onto the thankfully sturdy bridge the ground falls away and we are looking down onto the tops of trees. I was thankful the strong wind that usually whips through the gorge wasn't blowing and threatening to whisk me to my demise. That wind forced the trains to creep slowly across the gorge or get derailed by its force.
I didn’t care the day was thick with humidity and no wind to cool us; I was safer.

NOT MY FEET!

I kind of walked in the middle of the two walkways separated by railroad ties so I had a better chance of survival. The ties were open and I could see through them ALL THE WAY DOWN. The ties supported a double set of tracks showing an ingenious technology used to keep trains from derailing. If the winds knocked the train off the inner track, the outer set would keep them from derailing completely. I didn't go near the guard rail at the edge of the walkway either. If winds could knock a train off tracks then I was a goner with the first gust. 

Somehow, I managed to make it to the end of the skyway. While Janet did pirouettes on the railing I gripped it and peered down on the remnants of the Kinzua viaduct ripped apart by the tornado. I swear I saw several sets of human remains down there! Off in the distance was the other shard of the bridge, but far below were the mangled towers and their foot pads. Aiding my fear was the plexiglass panel at the end of the skyway. I closed my eyes and walked across it! As we walked back I ignored the kid doing cartwheels along the walkway... that is actually true.

TWO SET OF RAILS

We then walked down the gorge to peer back up at the bridge skyway. In the humidity we sweated, but at least we were on the ground.

We briefly considered the two-hour drive to Buffalo to eat chicken wings at the Anchor Bar, but instead headed for home and dinner at the Crittenden Hotel, located at the traffic light in Coudersport.

Again, I marvel at how Pennsylvania embraces its past and makes it easy to visit and enjoy her resources. Joking aside it was very good to visit the Kinzua Bridge Park..

it's safer on the ground

KINZUA STATE PARK

Thanks for reading.