Sunday, March 8, 2020

MONTEVERDE

I’M WALKING ON SUNSHINE
Before sailing on the M/S Panorama for a week-long excursion along the Pacific coasts of Costa Rica and Panama, we checked into the all-inclusive family style Fiesta resort for a few days. We wanted one day of relaxing at the pool, we had just escaped the wintry climate of Philadelphia after all, and then we planned a day of exploring the natural splendor of Costa Rica.
THE PIER AT FIESTA RESORT, COSTA RICA
One full day at the resort was enough. Schools in Costa Rica had started up, but there were plenty of ninas cavorting in the pool. The adults caroused and sang loudly at the swim up bar. We noticed that there was a fierce competition of gaining the bartenders’ attention right at the opening bell and then later when the liquor kicked in for these thirsty patrons, there was a lull throughout the resort for a well-earned siesta. Later, as the day waned crowds gathered on a pier to revel in the passing of another day. A bar was there, open only for the sunsets and helped to dampen sobriety levels.

SKYWALKER
Janet wanted to go ziplining and I wanted to walk in the clouds. Both activities are popular in Costa Rica where the eco-tourism trade also includes hiking at volcanoes and whitewater rafting and birdwatching as well as two oceans to loll by, the Pacific and the Caribbean.
 
KNUCKLEHEAD
Although I wanted to cater to my maniacal wife’s wish to “zip” between trees, I wanted none of this. Turns out that later in the week one of the tours offered by the Panorama Cruise people was ziplining, so although the Monteverde ziplining course is one of the original courses in Costa Rica, this was not her only opportunity to cheat death. So, we approached the Arenas Travel people located in the hotel lobby and set up a day of rainforests and hills in Costa Rica. First it was a “SKY WALK” along the hanging bridges in Monteverde and then a 3-for-1 four of coffee, cocoa and sugar cane harvesting with the Don Juan plantations. 

LIVING FENCES

LIVING FENCES AND CASHEWS
If you have limited time in Costa Rica, we here at VFH Central strongly suggest going on a tour. They may be expensive, ours cost $320, but you do get your money’s worth. The tour company tailored the day to our interests, replacing the ziplining for the coffee tour.

The trip to Monteverde took 8 hours and included transportation and a guide and lunch in Santa Elena. The guide was knowledgeable and enthusiastic. He stopped often to point out interesting facts about Costa Rica, like to be considered a town four things were necessary, a church, a school, a soccer field and a bar, missing one of these elements it’s just a cluster of buildings. He pointed out the “living fences” where farmers plant branches of the “Naked Indian” or Gumbo-Limbo tree which root quickly and with barbed wire form a fence. He stopped to show us monkeys or fetched a red cashew fruit from a tree and had us eat it.

CASHEW FRUIT

He was also our guide at the Sky Walk which is a combination of trails and suspension bridges that had us at times above many tree tops. At first the wobbly bridges were disconcerting but we were able to see the rainforest from all perspectives from above and below. We looked down on Howler monkeys rustling the trees and colorful humming birds flitting between the trees. He used his tripod and telescope of the monkeys to take a picture for us which turned out to be common practice for all the guides in Costa Rica.


Now it was decidedly cooler at the Sky Walk and when the wind kicked up it was much cooler than oceanside. Because this was a rainforest there is also a chance of getting wet. Many people in other tour groups were dressed for bear, wearing heavy jackets and some were encased in plastic and carrying hiking poles, but it was never that bad. Once on the trail, the winds abated and we were fortunate to not get rained on. Janet and I wore shorts and brought light sweatshirts which was adequate. The trail too was at times somewhat rough, but wearing sneakers was okay. 




MONKEY SEE

You could drive yourself to the Sky Walk park and hire a naturalist guide there if you choose. At Don Juan’s Coffee Plantation our guide handed us off to the staff there while he took another couple to the ziplining. We had to wait for our tour, which gave us enough time savor several cups of free coffee.

MONTEVERDE
The area where the skywalk, ziplining and the Cloud Forest Reserve is called Monteverde, today the main center of eco-tourism in Costa Rica with upwards of 250,000 yearly visitors.

Though the area had been populated throughout history Monteverde was founded and developed by Quakers in 1950. Fleeing the United States and the Korean War they were lured to Costa Rica because that country had abolished its standing army the year before and the President of Costa Rica was inviting foreigners to come in and help develop the country.

The 44 Quakers eventually settled in Monteverde and cleared land and started a dairy and cheese making business, but as time went on realized the importance of preserving the land and forests. They made strident efforts to protect the bio-diversity of Costa Rica through donations and eventually created the Monteverde Reserve. The cheese making facility is still open and some of the original Quakers still live in the area, but our tour was limited in scope and we could not linger. It would have taken days. Janet and I have lamented that we didn’t give enough time to exploring Monteverde.

If you’re interested in reading about the history of the Quakers in Monteverde here is a good website.
  
Thanks for reading.
© 2020 by Greg Dunaj

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