Friday, March 27, 2020

TRAVELS IN COSTA RICA


DREAMING OF BETTER TIMES
A long long time ago the earth was clean and one could freely leave the house without wearing a mask or slathered in hand sanitizer. Yes, my devoted cadre of readers it is hard to believe, but Team Vacations From Home used to actually leave their home to explore both around the corner and around the world.
 
LAKE WINDEMERE, UK
They were heady glorious times when our lungs would breathe the rarified air of Windemere, or Wildwood, or Washington, D.C. and it would not bring on a cough. We ventured forth with no fear, even from lost baggage because we carried travel insurance. There was a time we would actually go INTO a store, or sit in a café to linger over God’s ambrosia, and when we walked the dog, it was because she HAD TO GO OUT.

Oh, we were brave souls then, but that was so very long ago. When I look back on that time now, I realize how foolhardy we were, how cavalier we were as if we were immortal, immune to all the slings and arrows that nature could, and would eventually throw at us.

Let me tell you a tale of daring from your now prudent traveling tandem, Team VFH. It is a tale from the annals of the very distant past. It is a tale of odd creatures and strange people and distant shores. This will not be for squeamish. You may want to hug your pillow a little tighter or slurp your Quarantini (a martini you drink alone) to steel your nerves as I relate this tale of bravery and boldness  Before I continue though, I must caution you please please please after reading this saga of daring-do, or brash naivety don’t attempt to replicate it because you know that whole sheltering in place is still going on. Wait for the hi sign that the coast is clear.


COME SAIL AWAY
Long long ago, back in February of 2020 when the virus was just beginning to cause havoc in China, Team VFH boarded the M/S Panorama with Variety Cruises, in Puerto Caldera, Costa Rica for a week long cruise along the Pacific coast to Panama City, Panama. When we boarded the proud sailing ship, we were asked to fill out medical history forms which also asked if we were in China the past two weeks and if needed given our health and the Captain’s discretion, would we agree to be quarantined in our cabins. It was not a pleasant start to the trip.

Who knew the conflagration would quickly spread worldwide and effectively shutter the globe just after we returned home? Perhaps we should have heeded the imminent threat when there were just 16 souls brave enough to board the proud Panorama, a ship that could sail comfortably with 50? Perhaps we were blinded by the chance to explore the wilds of Costa Rica, the adventurers’ spirit quickening our heartbeats and Cacique Guaro deadening our inhibitions?


With the warm setting sun comforting us with promises of a new glorious day awaiting the Panorama and her intrepid mariners, we sailed that evening for Quepos. By morning we were anchored near the busy Marina Pez Vela. Quepos is a hotspot for big-game sport fishing, both deep and in-shore and there were plenty of Americans in the sleek, clean marina, but Quepos is also the gateway to Manuel Antonio National Park. We had no time to dawdle at any of the tony shops or restaurants at the marina, and after breakfast we took one of the Panorama’s inflatable zodiac motor launches to the marina and there boarded a van to take us to the park.

Now, Quepos is a small town, but had a lot of shops bars and restaurants and we would have loved to explore it. The winding road to M. Antonio NP swelled with commerce as well. Everything looked touristed but inviting. Every curve brought another bar or restaurant into view that had we been on our own we might never have made the actual park.
EL AVION, COSTA RICA

COME FLY WITH ME
One place of note was El Avion. It was pointed out by the tour guide as we flitted past. El Avion has a C-123 cargo plane as part of its structure. This plane was a part of the Oliver North Iran-Contra scandal from the 1980’s and now has more success boasting fantastic sunset views. We passed it twice on the way to the park and back. We just waved.  


ZOMBIE MOTHS, TWO-TOED SLOTHS AND TOUCANS
M. Antonio is the most popular park in Costa Rica with both tourists and Ticos alike and our four-hour excursion was to walk through the dense rainforest with a knowledgeable naturalist guide pointing out the extraordinary animal life found there like sloths and monkeys and a great variety of tropical birds and different species of flora and fauna before getting a quick 20-minute swim at one of the 4 beaches at Manuel Antonio. It was a tight schedule for our $85 per person trip, not including the tip to the guide.
 
ZOMBIE MOTH
After our bags were checked to make sure we weren’t carrying any food, for fear animals would become reliant on humans feeding them our informative and enthusiastic guide pointed out things and animals we would never have seen without him. First was a “zombie” moth that had been attacked by a parasitic cordyceps fungi that effectively liquifies its host and then uses the body to lure other insects to their deaths.

After this creepy start though it was all fun and games with white-faced monkeys prancing about and sloths ignoring us and preening Toucans looking pretty before a refreshing swim at one of the beaches. The guide had us listening to and imitated certain bird calls. He first heard the Toucan and then trained his telescope on the beautiful bird for us to see. Throughout the tour he patiently answered all of our questions. Without him we would have seen nothing.
 
TOUCAN AT M. ANTONIO NP, CR
The tour included a very refreshing individual fruit platter and the opportunity to purchase gifts.  .

BEERS AND ZIPLINING
Perhaps the nicest part of Janet being my traveling companion is that we aren’t joined at the hip and we are able to go our own ways at times. When I expressed an aversion to ziplining and flirting with death, Janet was fine going on her own. We had the van drop her off at Iguana Tours in Quepos for her adventure while I went back to the Panorama for a quick lunch and then a quick turnaround to Quepos for a walk about.
EL JARDIN QUEPOS, COSTA RICA

I bought a pachitas of Cacique and some Imperial Beers in a local market and then a couple of cigars in a shop and then had a beer at the Restaurante el Jardin del Mar. I was able to get on el Jardin’s wifi and sent some emails and did some writing while sipping my Imperial. 

Afterwards, with the sun fierce and my cigar guiding me along the empty streets looking for shade, I eventually made the marina again where I enjoyed the view while waiting for Janet’s return. She was excited with her ziplining and described it as safe and exhilarating. I was happy she went alone. I probably would have dashed my head against a tree. Her tour, with the photographs capturing her time cost around $100.

Back on the Panorama we showered and dressed for dinner and then the crew had arranged entertainment by a traditional Costa Rican band and dancers in native dress. The colorful dresses of the girls swirled as they danced gleefully. It made me feel we were fortunate to be here in this far away land, despite the growing concerns around the world over this virus. It was quite an adventurous day and we lived to tell about it.

Pura Vida... thanks for reading!

© 2020 by Greg Dunaj

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