Our Wednesday in Maui was a planned beach day. Maui has especially lovely beaches, mostly along the western coastline from D.T. Fleming Park north of Lahaina all the way down to Big Beach at Makena Beach State Park with a few in the north mostly centered in the valley between Kahului and Paia. In the town of Hana, on the extreme eastern edge of Maui, there are also a couple of beaches; a red sand beach and a black sand beach at Wai’anapanapa State Park. Mostly the northern edge of the island is rockier with cliffs although there are coves where
Wai’anapanapa State Park Hana
you can swim if interested but they have none of the facilities found in the beach parks. All the beach parks no matter how small have bathrooms and outdoor showers. South of Lahaina for lengthy stretches along Route 30 there are no official “beach parks” but we noticed lots of people parked and surfing and camping. Basically if you find a place that strikes your fancy you can swim. Hawaiian law says no one can own the surf and so even if you have private property people can have access to your beach. “Beach access” signs are everywhere, sometimes next to some very exclusive looking property.
And, the best part is they are all free, no New Jersey type beach tags necessary along any of
Big Beach
the 30 official miles of Maui beaches.
We decided to go to Little Beach this day. Clothing optional bathing is tolerated here and the beach is just over a little hill from Big Beach. Park at Makena Beach State Park and when you get to Big Beach make a right or follow people towards the collapsed cinder cone. Unlike Big Beach there are no bathroom facilities or lifeguards at Little Beach, just some gnarled trees and sadly some people who come to Little Beach to ogle…a bit too long. There were all kinds of people at the beach that day, from young to old wrinkly folks who don’t care what they look like
Little Beach with Molokini
anymore…ahem… me… But, the water was clear; we could see turtles in the water; and refreshing. The waves were strong though, you have to be a careful for sometimes the surf broke very close to shore. You can be several feet in the air on a wave and then pounded into 3 inches of water. Nearby Big Beach bears the dubious nickname of “Breakneck Beach” for this very reason and afterwards we learned that someone just last week cracked a vertebra in the capricious waters. So if you decide to go to either Big or Little Beach please be sure you are very aware of your surroundings.
We survived the day though. After making sure our sun screen was applied appropriately we
Molokini
lounged in the warm sun and cooled off in the beautiful water when necessary. From Little Beach there are great views of Molokini, a half-submerged crater 3 miles offshore and great for snorkeling, and Kahoolawe, nicknamed the Target Island. Uninhabited because of a lack of fresh water Kahoolawe was used by the military for target practice from WWII until it was stopped in 1990.
To avoid the sun some people draped towels or blankets over the gnarled trees at Little Beach to form shady areas; others brought umbrellas. It was very low key, but it was a Wednesday. Sunday afternoon and evening is very different. The beach gets crowded with people and a “drum circle” forms and fire dancers contort along with the rhythm. Not sure why they do it, but I’m sure it has something to do with Aloha Spirit. If you decide to go, make sure you bring a flashlight because the hike over the hill is rough and after sunset it’ll be more treacherous. Perhaps you’ll run into Steve Tyler, that guy from Aerosmith.
He’s been known to make the trek to Little Beach… Myself, I’m holding out for Liv. Oops …sorry Janet. LITTLE BEACH
I had never been interested in going to a Luau. It was a destination for tourists after all, parodied by the likes of Fred Flintstone, who had a famous line in one episode where he was cast in a Hawaiian Island movie: “Pass the Poi,” he said, practicing it over and over. It is probably good advice to never hire a lawyer who can discuss individual episodes of the
Flintstones, although this quality is admirable with hack travel writers. But, I digress here.
Seriously though, I thought luaus were events where Hawaiian natives hula’ed the night away for the benefit of brash tourists wearing loud Aloha shirts as they gobbled down Kalua Pork and LauLau and got drunk on Mai-Tais as they lasciviously ogled the young native dancers in their grass skirts and coconut bras. I thought such “celebrations” held for us haoles were cheap and degrading to the Native Hawaiians. We had already stolen their kingdom, now we have them performing like trained pets.
Despite my observations Janet insisted on going to one and I’m not one to go against her wishes.
HOW COULD I SAY "NO"?
“Yes Dear,” are the two most essential words a man can ever utter. But, I digress here.
She did her research well and got us two tickets for the Old Lahaina Luau. It is a traditional hula and feast and very well attended. All the reviews were aglow about this particular luau, perhaps because it was not a bunch of “fire-eaters showing off.” We were on stand-by and fortunate to get seats. The Old Lahaina Luau is held nightly, but the waiting list stretched until mid-August. We went on our Tuesday in Maui and we traveled to this area of Lahaina called Moali’i, just north of the main tourist area. It’s on Front Street and across from the Lahaina Cannery Mall.
Joking aside, in the tradition of old Hawaii, travelers were always offered food as a show
POI IS UPPER RIGHT
of love and respect and the beginnings of the hula may have been as both a religious ritual while also providing entertainment for the rulers. Until a written language was created Hawaiian lore was passed to the next generation through stories and displays of the dances that we witnessed on our fortuitous night at the luau. Keeping such old Hawaiian traditions are very important to the Hawaiian people who take great pride in their history and the Old Lahaina Luau showed a progression of dance and music from ancient drum dances through to the missionary hulas, the modern hulas before finishing with a Tahitian fete celebration of dance that features solo dancers.
Most interestingly, Lahaina, Maui today is a tourist town. Shops, restaurants and bars catering to the tourist trade crowd Front Street. But, before it was a tourist destination, and before it was the center of the Pacific whaling industry and a plantation town, Lahaina was the capital of the kingdom of Hawaii and the residence of ancient kings who would come here for rest and play. So, it’s conceivable that a luau in Lahaina with its feast and hula is the real McCoy.
We were greeted at the Old Lahaina Luau with music and Lei’s and Mai-Tai’s and seated at a l
TOURIST CENTRAL
ong line of tables surrounding a large central stage and then invited to walk the grounds past several displays of Hawaiian crafts and take hula lessons and bask in a glorious sunset. It was crowded with haoles and yes there were a lot of crazy Aloha shirts on display, but the Aloha Spirit was strong here (aided by more Mai-Tai’s and Little Tita’s and Honey Girls and Blue Hawaiians, all with “extra-loving” poured by the shirtless bartenders in traditional garb...that's more rum kids). Then we were invited to surround the underground oven or Imu for the digging up of the Kalua Pig. Dinner was served buffet style and the traditional feast featured not only the pig, but the poke (both Ahi and He’e …octopus…) and yes Poi. We did not pass on the poi by the way.
The feast continued with steak and chicken and island prepared fish and several side dishes.
Front St. Lahaina
We ate and drank a lot and the show was informative and beautiful. When couples were invited to dance to a modern song played by the live band, Janet and I twirled happily in the warm Hawaiian night. Though it was all steeped in tradition it was a bit hokey, but wonderfully loveable and for one night I did not mind being a tourist. OLD LAHAINA LUAU
Go…
Before we went to the luau we spent a full relaxing day in the sun at the resort lounging by the
BANYAN TREE LAHAINA
pool. We left a little earlier than necessary to stroll around Lahaina a bit, stopping by the old massive banyan tree that fills a city block and to poke our noses in some of the shops in the area. It may all be just a tourist destination but this area of the world is beautiful.
Mahalo for reading.
Here is a taste of what we enjoyed at the Old Lahaina Luau. We hope your travels lead you to such enchanting destinations.
The “Road to Hana” is the number one activity for tourists on Maui. EVERYONE who has ever visited the Valley Isle will state that you MUST take this 68 mile road trip along a winding, narrow road, over seemingly countless bridges and with so many twists and curves you can go DIZZY, but with so many gorgeous stops and spectacular vistas you’ll take a FULL DAY to see it all. Maybe you should take TWO days some say. The drive skirts the rainy side of Mt. Haleakala and passes through lush growth and along dramatic cliffs. There are short hikes to waterfalls and secluded beaches at nearly every turn and at every turn you will want to stop and enjoy the natural beauty before you. Yes, you HAVE TO take the ROAD TO HANA!!!
The thing is there will be a lot of other people doing the same thing at the exact same time
the Road to Hana
and it takes just one guy slower than the rest for you to get into a slow conga line of cars, and you will spend the day WORRIED about the bumper in front of you. Along with all the natural beauty you WILL definitely encounter very impatient locals hurtling down this lovely road; they have seen all of this spectacular BEAUTY before and now YOU ARE IN THEIR WAY. They don’t care you’re reveling in your great fortune to be ON THE ROAD TO HANA because EVERYONE told you to take this road trip. You are IN THEIR WAY! Yes, Aloha Spirit DOES NOT travel well on the Road to Hana.
Perhaps, inspired by the brazen locals, you also try to barrel white knuckled along the turns on two wheels? Perhaps such insanity will be out of necessity, because you’ve taken far too much time and you certainly don’t want to be stuck on the road to Hana at NIGHT! Perhaps when you get back to your resort or during a stop in the little hippie town of Paia you will purchase a “Survivor” t-shirt proclaiming your bravery at traveling the ROAD TO HANA without going airborne? Perhaps after reading this blog entry you may say why bother taking this trip?
You should, all kidding aside, take the Road to Hana, but prepare. Leave early enough, even
pre-dawn just so you can beat the RUSH hours and all the other tourists, even consider staying overnight that way you can be far more relaxed and willing to explore. Guide books devote a lot of pages on preparing for the trip as there are no gas stations, etc. and can offer some good advice and places to stay. I also recommend purchasing a cd guide for the trip that will point out places to stop to explore. Fumbling with an outdated and mismarked ledger leads to frustration. Also, DON’T STOP everywhere. There is so much beauty that you can linger along this incredible stretch for too long and then give the rest short shrift. Even when you reach your destination of Hana, a sleepy little town stuck in time, there can still be so much more traveling. You can snorkel at the black sand beach at Waianapanaga State Park, find the red sand beach which is difficult to reach but is clothing optional, or drive further to the seven sacred pools of Oh’eo that are actually in Haleakala National Park or drive even further along to visit the gravesite of the American aviator, Charles Lindbergh in Kipahulu.
If you decide to linger in Hana visit the Hasegawa General Store for return supplies. HASEGAWA GENERAL STORE
Sadly, we did none of this. Rain dampened our ardor and with an eye on the time we just did a quick swing through Hana after having a good, if pricey, lunch at the Hana Ranch Restaurant.
I had my first Loco Moco there; a hamburger patty with a fried egg, brown gravy and sitting on rice. At $17 it was pricey, but the quality of the meat was very good.
THE VALLEY ISLE Maui
was one of those places I had never expected to visit in my life. Hawaii is an
exotic location, but I never considered going to Maui. EVERYONE seemingly goes to the Valley Isle. and I always thought of it as a large version of Waikiki. Expensive resorts, tourist towns like Lahaina were not on my personal radar and when the Ka'anapali Beach Club time share gift fell into our laps I was disappointed. I really wanted something on Oahu or the Big Island. But, we just spent a week on West Maui where there are lots of resorts and tourists and I have to say I would love to return.
Maui
was once two islands; an isthmus now connects the collapsed mountain of West Maui
and the younger, much more massive Mount Haleakala. The area between the two is
arid considered desert, which makes it a great place to grow sugar cane. Through irrigation sugar cane fields flourish and from this seven mile
wide valley Maui gets its nickname, the Valley Isle. When mature water is cut off from the cane. The leaves wither and the sugar is concentrated in the stalks. Farmers then burn off the leaves leaving just the stalks for harvesting. The ash from the burning falls on the neighboring areas and is called "Maui Snow". White snow sometimes falls on Mt. Haleakala, which forms the eastern island. At 10,000+ feet above sea level it is cold at the summit even during the summer. The eastern side of Maui
is a lush rainforest and the Iao Valley gets more rain than anywhere else in
the United States, and this is where Maui gets its drinking water. Beaches
circle the island and the sand is either tan, black or in one place near Hana,
the number one day trip on Maui, red because of a collapsed cinder cone.
The
more I read about Maui, the more excited I was to visit this island. There was so much to do and I was afraid we would not fit everything in, that we would be running crazily around from one event to the next. Thankfully we had the very comfortable Ka'anapali Beach Club as a home base and despite our busy week were not stressed. Our home for the week was a large airy one bedroom with a huge bathroom and a kitchenette that opened onto a living room as large as our bedroom. We had a little balcony and a wall of sliding glass doors that gave us a "scenic" view (not ocean) of the West Maui mountains (and a super market). We could see how the collapsed mountain had formed gullies in the face of the mountain. Afternoon clouds would gather and the moisture would grace us with rainbows.
When we wanted to hang out a while between planned excursions we would go down to the pool or the ocean. There was an exercise room, and a running path along the resort strip
in Ka’anapali when we were inclined to work off the Mai-Tai’s and beer from the
on campus Tiki-Bar. The pool is vast, the open air lobby has exotic birds. It’s
all very islandy, so when we are stressed from too many activities we can
simply drifted awhile to catch our breath.
When we
arrived last Saturday the concierge at the Ka’anapali BC helped arrange our week of activities.
She wrote out a little calendar for us and made phone calls and set up tours when necessary; all at a discount I might add. She was very helpful and the week filled us very
quickly.
Here is
a listing of our planned madness for the week:
Sunday
was the World Cup Final…sadly over coffee and papaya and not beers and wings…
They started playing at 9 a.m. Then it was that damned timeshare hard sell
presentation. We are still not sure it was worth $200! Later that afternoon we strolled along the resort walk in Ka'anapali and took a swim in the ocean near Black Rock, a landmark halfway along the resort beach walk.
Monday
was the "Drive to Hana." This is the number one “thing to do” in Maui. The
road twists and turns and there are countless places for around 40 miles
passing through lush rainforest and past waterfalls before depositing those
brave enough to take the day long trip in the little town of Hana. There is a
black sand beach and a red sand beach there.
Tuesday
was the Old Lahaina Luau. This event is usually sold out months in advance, but somehow Janet got us two tickets.
Wednesday
was a Willie K concert. He's a very talented local Hawaiian musician. I first heard his song "North Shore Reggae Blues" nearly 20 years ago and I have been a fan since. We saw him at a dinner show at the only Irish bar on Maui, Mulligans on the Blue
Thursday
we went snorkeling at Molokini, a collapsed volcanic cone three
miles off shore and said to be the best place to snorkel on Maui.
On
Thursday night/Friday morning we got up around 2 am to drive up to the House
of the Sun, Mt. Haleakala. At 9,740 feet it was cold, but the sunrise was worth the shrinkage. Then, we rode bicycles DOWN the mountain.
Sounds
like we did a lot! The casualty of so such an active week has been keeping up with telling you details about our days. These will follow in time.
Maui Brewing Co
After
all that planning last Saturday we had to relax. But, instead of just lingering by the pool;
it was already dark; we decided to take a short drive up Route 30 to the Maui
Brewing Company for a couple of beers and a light snack. Janet had a Coconut
Porter and I had a Big Swell IPA, my favorite beer so far on this trip. Too bad
I’ll not be able to get Maui Brewing back home.
Okay… you’re probably
wondering HOW in the hell are these two cheapos in Hawaii! It ain’t easy. For
us on the east coast it is a long costly flight and truthfully this is the
first time I’ve traveled to Hawaii for pleasure AND had to pay for my air fare.
In times past I’ve had free travel from frequent flyer miles, but not this
time. UGH….
It's certainly NOT cheap here
in Hawaii, gas right now is around $4.40, and I just purchased a $7.22 4 oz.
bag of potato chips (for Janet) from the Maui Potato Chip company….Kitch’n
Cook’d!!!!I want to buy stock in this
F-ing company. They are at 295 Lalo Street, Kahului, Maui if you are so
inclined, although I don’t think there is much of a tour.
EXPENSIVE
The only way Hawaii
became a feasible destination for us was through the kindness of Janet’s
step-mother and her father who gave us a timeshare at a resort for a week. We
are staying in west Maui. The resort is one of a string of places north of
Lahaina and home to a golden stretch of sand called Ka'anapali Beach. This place
is a lot more expensive than we could ever afford and not really our way to
travel, but it is bright and airy and pink and right on the water. We don’t have an ocean view, but when the clouds roll in from the mountain and rain comes in the late
afternoon we are blessed with rainbows.
Because this is a time
share we somehow got tangled into a presentation. They dangled $200 worth of
vouchers for spending in many area establishments. Burgers are roughly $14 here
and well, if not burgers, there’s a lot of Mai-Tai’s, or at least a couple of
bags of Maui Potato Chips in that $200, so we winced our way through the 2 ½ hour
hard sell presentation and then used that money to go to Kimo's in Lahaina for a nice
seafood dinner, telling ourselves between bites that we earned it.We sipped Mai-Tai's and watched a brilliant sunset as we ate dinner.
PRICELESS
We are bracketing our
week stay in Maui with two smaller trips, a few days on the north shore of Oahu
and nearly a week on the Big Island. We got our places through a new website
called Air BNB. Through Air BNB we rented a room in a lovely couple's home in Waialua and in the Hilo area are getting an entire place on an acre of land for just $75 per night.
Although AirBNB is new, renting homes/rooms in Hawaii is
not. In years past I have rented a bungalow near Lanikai beach in Kailua, Oahu,
an entire house at Malaekahana Bay and a room in a mansion in Hilo through a
bed and breakfast network listing.
Some people like
resorts, some people can’t afford it…. We are both!
It is very different traveling this way. I have to admit it's impersonal, there is not a lot of Aloha Spirit, in fact we have not seen a lot of Native Hawaiians since arriving to this resort on western Maui. It reminds me of last year's trip through South Carolina's lowcountry which finished up on Hilton Head Island. All of it was beautiful, but the resorts of HHI were faster paced and catered to a vacationing crowd rather than a traveling crowd. Ka'anapali is like this. From our pool and personal beach we have a spectacular view of Molokai and you never have to leave for the week. The culture of Hawaii is secondary to the "downtime" people seek when they vacation. I love it and yet I know there is much more out there. It's like saying Waikiki IS Hawaii. It's beautiful with spectacular views and you really never have to leave it, unless you want to experience Hawaii. Truthfully though the pool at the Ka'anapali Beach Club is lovely and vast with plenty of chaise lounges the beach part is very poor. Not really much of a beach and there's a lot of coral. If you want to see good beaches, you'll have to get off campus. Ka'anapali is a perfect, very luxurious home base from which to explore Maui and with $200 dollars of hard-earned bucks it's that much sweeter.
Our personal rainbow
Mahalo, thanks for reading. Come back to follow our antics on the Valley Isle.
Sadly it was time to leave Oahu for Maui. We were taking a ten seat island-hopper prop plane from Honolulu to the smaller Kapalua airport on western Maui, just north of Lahaina on Mokulele Airlines. The co-pilot wore lime green framed sunglasses. Our flight path took us directly over Diamond Head and the length of Molokai. MOKULELE AIRLINES
Where to go?
We said our good-byes to our hosts Kristin and Bill and their dogs Blue and Snausages (Friday) and drove over to the Waialua Sugar Mill Farmer’s Market to sniff through some produce. The sugar mill, once very productive for the Dole Company, closed in 1996 and now the area serves as a home for the Waialua Estate coffee and several other shops. Janet bought some coconut flavored peanut butter for her girls at one of the produce stands. It was then one last slow ride through the little hippie/surfer Haleiwa Town and just one more slow crossing of the enchanting Anahulu Stream Bridge, its white rainbow-curved lines soft and just so very Hawaiian before heading towards the jammed roadways of Honolulu. For me, the Anahulu Bridge appears when I dream of Hawaii. I sighed and headed east towards the capital.
We spent the day near Waialua, rising with the cacophony of birds outside our window. The house we are renting is across from Aweoweo Beach Park. We could see waves breaking beyond the palms from the lanai. The summit of Mount Ka’ala at 4,025 feet was shrouded in clouds, but the ridge that juts out into the Pacific forming the westernmost edge of Oahu was brilliant in the morning sun. It is called Kaena Point and considered by ancient Hawaiians as the “jumping off” place to meet their ancestors. It is a remote area, accessible only by a rough unpaved road after Farrington Highway ends a few miles past Dillingham Airfield. For years I’ve marveled at the forbidden looking Kaena Point from places like Sunset Beach and Haliewa Town and never thought I would get there. It looked like the end of the world. In fact this entire trip to Oahu has been filled with new adventures for me for I have never traveled as far west on Oahu as Waialua and the beauty that lay beyond.
This whole area is called “country” by the people of Oahu and it certainly is very rural here. We’re staying in a little development with a cluster of homes near the shore, but soon there is nothing but the road, the ocean and the ominous ridge that ends with Kaena Point. It is just under seven miles from our place in Waialua to the end of the Farrington Road. In fact our hosts said some previous guests stayed with them just so they could be closer to the hiking trails of Kaena Point. It is possible to drive a four-wheel vehicle around, but it is very rough going. A lot walk the 2.5 miles to the tip, where during the winter waves have been known to swell upwards to 50 feet.
We left Au Street and turned onto Waialua Beach Road, which eventually narrowed down to Crozier Drive, and we passed some incredible homes on spectacular lots right on the water, before turning onto Farrington Highway and going to the end. We sighed at every homestead and dreamed, but knew we could never afford to live here; don’t worry we asked and were shocked at the prices.
Kaena Point road
Farrington Road is very isolated. There were a number of ranches, a polo field right on the ocean and a small grouping of homes, but after the Dillingham Airfield there was nothing but windswept views of the Pacific. Here the ridge of Kaena Point nears the road, glowering, huge, its surface gullied and raw. Appropriately, the paved road ends and the untamed track is menacing. We only walked about one mile on the pitched, furrowed road. A couple of four wheelers weaving around huge depressions passed us and we met a number of hikers with walking sticks hats and supplies. We were not as prepared as the hikers; it is highly recommended you bring water if you are going to seriously head out to the point. This is raw land. There are only a few coves with any sand. Mostly the angry waves here crash against volcanic rock. There is no place to swim, although a few people pitched tents and brought in campers to make it a day of near isolation.
near Dillingham Airfield
We drove back to a sandy area right off Farrington Road, right near the end of Dillingham Airfield for some sand gravity. There are no bathrooms at all here and just a few natives and toursits relaxing on this Friday afternoon. The water was clear and surprisingly cool and it got very deep a few feet from the surf line. Dillingham Airfield is a military facility, once integral during WW2, but now mostly used by gliders riding the ridge lift currents off Kaena Point and skydivers, although we also watched a military helicopter land. Gliders sometimes flew directly over us on their landing approach. It is a beautiful spot. The official name for the ridge behind us is Kuaokala Forest Reserve and if so inclined the Kealia Trail begins near Dillingham to get you up onto the ridge.
Popular with windsurfers is Mokuleia Beach Park and we stopped to watch these skilled riders flit along the waves, including a local eccentric named “Top Hat” who wears a top hat as he skirts the waves. Our hosts, Kristin and Billy thinks he’s a trust fund baby because surfing is all he does. What luck Mr. Top Hat walked by us and said hello!
Another place that we did not sadly visit was Makaleha Beach Park/Polo Beach Public Access Path. It wasn’t until later that we learned it was perhaps “clothing optional”. There are no official nude beaches on Oahu, so it’s a proceed-at-your-own-risk endeavor. I understand there is a clothing optional place on Maui called Little Beach.
TOP HAT
We spent our last night in Oahu with our hosts and a gathering of their friends for a communal BBQ in the little courtyard of their homes. With the sky afire with the vibrant sunset colors of another successful day in paradise we drank wine and mingled and petted dogs. One friend was a Hawaiian native, everyone else was white. Eric and I spoke for a long while. He actually lived on the 9th “unofficial Hawaiian Island”, Las Vegas, for 13 years. Evidently a lot of Hawaiian natives, lured by the lower cost of living and job prospects gravitate to Vegas, but the allure of Hawaii was too strong to ignore and he eventually had to return with his wife. I envy him.
Honey! I'm home....
I have visited Oahu more than the other islands and on this short three day trip I have had so many new experiences and this little party was the highlight. Appropriately Oahu is nicknamed the Gathering Place probably because of the endeavors of King Kamehameha in the 1800's to unify the islands, but I like to think the name comes from nights like this, where serenity and friendship are all that matters. I hope that I never lose this Aloha Spirit. Mahalo Janet and greg
Our first full day in Hawaii "brimmed" with activity. Still on east coast time we arose early and showered, sighing at the view out our bathroom window. It is of the tallest mountain on Oahu, Mount Ka'ala. There is rich farmland stretching before the mount and this fertile area provides with produce and meat; a macrobiotic heaven.
Speaking of meat, we headed to Kono's in nearby Haleiwa for Kalua pig breakfast bombers and some strong coffee. Janet got a refill. These bombers, or breakfast burritos, were apparently popular with the military as soldiers filled the joint. Good food. I happen to have a fondness for Kalua pig, which is slathered on everything in Hawaii. See Kono's website for a recipe. KONO'S HALEIWA
BREAKFAST BOMBERS KONO'S
Before we had even finished our Kono’s coffee we were driving along route 99 east and passing coffee fields of the Waialua Estate. I had purchased green beans from Waialua for Janet to roast years ago and the rich soil of Oahu provides a strong black cup. Then we stopped at the Green World Farms coffee house where we were introduced to cold drip coffee, which takes hours and hours to brew, but leaves behind a mighty kick with no bitterness.
Now appropriately caffeinated we headed to our first destination of the day; the USS Arizona memorial at Pearl Harbor. We were cautioned by our hosts that we needed to arrive early. This somber, sacred American historical site has grown in popularity and tickets to board the launch that takes visitors out to the tomb of nearly 1,000 sailors and marines are quickly given out. It is free. Years ago when I first visited Pearl Harbor visits were less attended and there was rarely a wait. It is good to see this swelling of patriotism.
USS ARIZONA MEMORIAL
The Arizona was sunk during the sneak attack by the Japanese on December 7, 1941 when a bomb hit her forward magazines, trapping over 1,000 men. To this day a few drops of oil leaks out of the wreck; they are called the tears of the Arizona. This solemn stop in Oahu includes a stirring film relating the events of that infamous morning. The next stop for us was … more coffee. A stop at the Lion Coffee facility at 1555 Kalani Street was a must. I often buy Christmas gifts of small bags of their coffee for friends and colleagues. We stopped at the airy warehouse, roasting facility, shop and coffee house for YET another cup of Joe. This time Janet had a cold drip hazelnut over ice and I had a “volcano” blend with an extra shot of espresso. By the time we finished our coffee Janet just wanted to run alongside the car for a while. LION COFFEE
Because we were in the Honolulu area we had to visit Waikiki. Often tourists only see this part of Oahu, their airport shuttle deposits them on Kuhio Avenue and eventually picks them up for the return. It’s so different from the slow pace of the North Shore, but the colors of the Pacific, the soft sand, the high rise hotels, the surf boards on display for rent, the glitzy high priced shops and the cheap ABC stores alongside them, and Diamond Head looming majestically all made it worth braving the snarling traffic. It is beautiful, but I’m glad we’re not staying here.
We found a free parking spot near Kapiolani Park and walked in the surf line along Waikiki, dodging the hordes all the way to the pink Royal Hawaiian hotel. We walked through this beautiful hotel back to the street and weaved around tourists on Kalakaua Avenue. We stopped for a smoothie and a shaved ice at the Waikiki Beachside Bistro, near the Duke Kahanamoku statue to cool off. Duke is considered the father of modern surfing. By the time we were finished with our treats we were ready to leave Waikiki.ROYAL HAWAIIAN HOTEL WAIKIKI
Perhaps the coffee still sloshing through our veins inspired us to climb to the summit of the Diamond Head crater. It is $5 per car load to enter. Of all the trips to Oahu I had never visited Diamond Head and so Janet and I sprinted up the steeply inclined trail to marvel at Honolulu and Hawaii Kai and Koko Head and the blue blue blue Pacific ocean. Glistening with well-earned sweat and broad smiles we leaned into the wind and smiled at our successful day.
Hawaii is paradise, no
doubt. It is a top rated destination for many and for many traveling to this
archipelago would be considered a trip of a lifetime. I am fortunate. Between
work and play I have been to Hawaii six times. This is Janet’s first trip and
although I have frequented Hawaii so often over the years I share her
excitement. I actually pushed for this trip; it has been over a decade since my
last visit.
Well, I can write here
about the pervasive, infectious Aloha Spirit which usually transitions into at
times frustrating Aloha time. I can talk about the swaying palms and incessant
waves and surfing, Honolulu dive bars, Diamond Head vistas, Pearl Harbor,
Waikiki, Kona coffee, Hanaumu Bay,
Waimea Bay, the road to Hana, Haleakala National Park, the Parker Ranch, Moana
Loa, volcanos, white sand, black sand, green sand, macadamia nuts and sea turtles,
but I won’t.
All are brilliant destinations
on the tourist trail, but my two fondest memories of Hawaii from my past visits
are slices of everyday life. Once I rented a house in Lanikai on the windward
side of Oahu and went to a Chinese restaurant and tried to pay the tab with a travelers
check. I offered my ID and was told that wasn’t necessary. They surmised that I
must have just returned from a vacation on the mainland. The other came from
kicking around a Honolulu neighborhood around Christmas time; I was in Honolulu
to run the marathon there; and seeing kids lining up in a playground to sit on
Santa’s knee. Santa wore flip flops and the beard was bit too warm so it had
migrated to his neck.
Lives being lived, families
being tended to, those are my fondest memories of this far flung American
outpost. Since my first visit, courtesy of Sinatra in 1986, until this seventh
excursion I have felt like I belonged here and each time I leave I yearn to
return. Dare I call myself a “kama’aina” a child of the island? That I guess is too high an opinion of myself
and perhaps it may be over reaching. Island fever would probably grip me too; living
here on these islands with no escape, despite the paradise, may eventually lose
its allure.
north shore Oahu
Sadly, for many
residents of Hawaii lives hover near the poverty level. Get away from the glitz
and polish of Waikiki and you have simple folk living normal lives filled with the
same expectations and disappointments found elsewhere. It may be “paradise”,
but you still have to slog through the day. Hawaii too was “stolen” from the
people by American entrepreneurs in a coup in the 1890’s. When the 100th
anniversary of the “annexation” Hawaii came up Senator Daniel Inouye suggested
the state flag at the U.S. Capital be lowered to half-staff.
Yes, a quick read of
Hawaiian history makes one wonder how anyone could smile at all. Native
Hawaiians have endured war, invasion and conquering corporations and to this
day the resentment remains. It is a thread that is just beneath the surface. I
personally have experienced prejudice here. I’ve heard the derogatory term
“haole” launched in my direction. I honestly have never had the desire to visit
the Wainae coast of Oahu because of the native Hawaiian population. Car break-ins
are common in some spots there. I’ve had my rental car keyed at the Waimea Bay
parking lot. But, you know, there are bad people everywhere and in Hawaii it is
the same.
So, why have I returned
so often you may ask? I’ve painted a somewhat grimmer than expected picture of
Hawaii I know. How could this remote volcanic ecosystem be so alluring? Those
two fond memories are just the start. The beauty, the diversity of people and
views and experiences keeps me wanting to return. You can never beat a sunset
in Haleiwa Town; you just have to be aware that although this is “paradise” not
everyone is swaying their hips at the waves and drinking Mai Tai’s all day.
the Chinaman's Hat
We are staying in Waialua
on the North Shore, at Kristin and Billy’s house. We rented a room with them for
three days through a website called Airbnb.com, one of several similar bed and breakfast
access websites. In all the visits to Oahu I have never stayed this far west. Rather than driving the quick way across the island, up H2 directly to Waialua, we drove the long way up the windward side of Oahu.
We stopped at the Chinaman's Hat, Laie Point and the Banzai Pipeline, although in July there aren't any monstrous waves; they come in the winter. We had dinner at one of the many shrimp vendors near the northern apex of Oahu, Kahuku Point, where there are a lot of shrimp farms.
When we drove out of Haleiwa we passed a lush baseball field. Mountains were in
the distance. The ocean was behind us. The colors were shockingly vibrant. There
was a game going on, not an organized, little league game, just a pick-up game.
Younger kids too, not teenagers, just some kids playing around and I remarked
to Janet that this is the Hawaii I love.
This year is the 100th
anniversary of the beginning of World War I. The global conflict raged until
1918, with the United States entering the conflagration in 1917. The world had
never experienced war at this scale before and it left behind a “lost
generation” of dissolute men. Back in the United States towns were urged to
erect some sort of memorial to these brave soldiers, perhaps not only to honor
them, but to soften the blows they had suffered.
A very popular statue from
this time was the Spirit of the American Doughboy sculpted by E.M. Viquesney.
It was a copper plated image of a Doughboy striding forth with a grenade in his
right hand and a bayonetted rifle in his left. Because it was copper plated and
not solid, it was cheaper to produce, and purchase, and Viquesney’s company
claimed to have at least one statue in every state. Today it is estimated there
are approximately 150 Spirit statues remaining and New Jersey has eight of
them.
Vacations From Home has
been traveling around New Jersey seeking out these statues and this is the
fourth in the series. The first three were spread out over a large area, which
in the small state of New Jersey this says a lot about the distances involved.
Team VFH first ventured to Secaucus in Hudson County on the grounds of the
municipal complex. Secaucus is just a couple of miles away from the Lincoln
Tunnel and New York City. Then we visited Frenchtown on the far western side of
the state, near the Delaware River to see the statue that stood in front of the
local grade school. The third statue was in the iron hills of Dover, Morris
County, nestled in the pastoral Hurd Park sitting atop an impressive cairn.
Of the remaining five
memorials, four are relatively close to each other along or near the Jersey
shore. It is quite possible to tool around and see them all in one day.
Hopefully after you get some leads though from this humble blog you’ll want to
take your time and linger in the towns.
Here is the first of our Jersey shore towns....
BELMAR
Belmar
The memorial here in
this shore town, the town of my youth, witness to many a debauched weekend, is
away from the ocean and near an overpass of Route 35. Despite the location the
park is well tended and neat and the statue is in great condition. Names of WWI
battles are etched into the pedestal The Spirit statue was first dedicated in
1930 in front of what was first the American Legion Hall, which then evolved
into the municipal building and community hall
Dedication ceremony 1930
before the statue was refurbished
and when rededicated and moved in 2006 a block or so away to its present site along
West Railroad Avenue between 7th and 8th Avenues. The
names of 102 soldiers are listed on the plaque.
THINKING
of VISITING?
Belmar isn’t quite the
Jersey shore made famous by that MTV reality show, but it is kinda close. I
spent many a day sneaking onto the beach, and dodging the beach patrols and
drinking in the area bars and sleeping in cars to avoid paying for a room.
Sigh….what fun and fond memories. Well, that facet of the town remains and let
me tell you it’s not just the Jersey Shore. I once was in Surfer’s Paradise,
Queensland, Australia and during my morning run I saw many kids sleeping in
cars, so, I guess it’s acceptable? Consequently don’t come to this blog for
places to stay, because I’ll say the backseat.
But, the beach is great
here, if expensive; New Jersey towns all charge entrance fees. Even with the
crowds that pour into the town during the summer months there is a family
aspect as well. There are several playgrounds on the beach for kids and
activities like volleyball nets set up for public use as well as events like
sand sculpting competitions. Also for the kids there is a Surfing camp at 3rd
Avenue. Cowabunga indeed. Yes, the surf is strong here. The Beach Boys
mentioned Belmar in their song Surfing USA and there is a part still sectioned
off for surfers which I believe is near 19th Avenue. In September
there is a professional surfing competition. Check the website for details. BELMAR SURFING COMPETITION
The boardwalk is a great
place to run even if you have to slalom around the strollers, and there are a
number of well attended races in town each summer. Go to the town’s website for
races and other events.
This area of the Jersey
Shore is affectionately known as the Irish Riviera. Filled with Benny’s (not
Shoobees) and there are so many places to carouse and eat no list will be
complete. Also, nearby towns like Avon-by-the-Sea and Spring Lake, are also
worth visiting. Here is an incomplete list of places to visit off the beach:
Klein’s
Fish Market and Waterside Cafe
On River Road, just off
the Shark River inlet, the place is loud and crowded and fun. The food is a bit
pricey, but you can’t beat the water view.
Outside of Belmar, and
really a very short drive, are a number of notable places to go for a beer or
food. Just north of Belmar is the laid back town of Avon-by-the-Sea. Compared
to Belmar, Avon is very quiet. The Columns is on Ocean Avenue, just across from
the boardwalk. Get a seat on the lanai and sip your drink and enjoy the view of
the ocean.
A great dive bar in Avon
is the Norwood Inn at 618 Second Avenue. It is stately but worn. Not much of abeer selection, but it’s a
friendly place and the food will carry you along. Thankfully they filled in the
pool that was in the backyard, I guess there were too many unexpected dunks.
There is live music and if you stay late enough maybe you’ll get a room, or at
least stay for brunch.
A (very) short jump away
from Belmar is Kelly’s in Neptune City. I love this place, and have
KELLY'S
been known to
drive out of my way to go here for beers and food. Again, the Irish are well
represented here, with a map of Ireland on the ceiling above the bar, which is
just a couple of feet from the sushi station. Go for the Ham Galway sandwich
and the $15 buckets of beer special during the World Cup matches.
BTW… Jack Nicholson was born in Neptune as
well as Southside Johnny Lyon from Southside Johnny and the Asbury Jukes!
Arcades
The
SilverBall Museum
No visit to the Jersey
Shore would be complete without a trip to the Arcade. Pinball was always a
favorite pastime for me! If you’re interested in a side trip, just north is
Asbury Park and the SilverBall Museum just a couple of hundred feet from the
famous music venue, The Stone Pony. Purchase an unlimited play pass for $10 from 5
pm until closing.
I could go on and on
here, but your favorite mooch crew is off next to Fair Haven, NJ. I am sure I've missed something. If you feel compelled to add to this list, leave a comment or write us at: greg.dunaj@yahoo.com. If you decide to visit the Jersey Shore you may never want to go home again.
cheers
Janet and greg
Southside Johnny and the asbury jukes w/springsteen 1978
