PSAMMOPHILES IS US

SAND WORTHY

Partly because I am a collector, partly because I am cheap, and partly because I have had the great fortune to see a goodly amount of this planet, I collect sand. What better way to remember a place than to bring some of it home with you?

my sand...sigh

At first collecting sand was a curiosity, a random act, or an afterthought. There are places early in my travels that I failed to grab a sample and some places just a thimble-full. But now, after decades of traveling and collecting (and being cheap) that has completely changed.

Now there’s a whole personal science to collecting sand! Travel destinations are considered viable because I need a sample from there. Is it “sand worthy”?  Itineraries are planned not only for sights and museums, but for sand. After all these years I guess I could truly label myself an arenophile.

I have driven miles out of my way to grab sand from some unique place. Readers of this blog may remember how Team VFH hiked 2.5 miles across windswept, arid south point on the Big Island of Hawaii to collect green sand at Papakolea Beach, one of only four green sand beaches in the world.  And, the samples I collect have grown in size. Only filled water bottles or baggies will suffice. Sadly, extra amounts of sand, after the sample has been recanted and labeled for display, clutter my basement. Janet anxiously taps her foot with arenophilia as she anticipates the conjoining of our fortunes! I keep the labeled glass bottles in a little kiosk in my office. I could use more room… or get smaller bottles I guess. I’m sure Janet will put the kibosh on this.

extra sand!

I also receive sand as gifts. Friends who have the great luck to travel to places I have yet to visit sometimes return with a sample for me. A dear friend in Australia has sent me sand from Ayers Rock, or Uluru in the native tongue. My darling daughter, a charter member of Team VFH, brought back sand from Normandy Beach while there on a high school trip. I have never been to the Canary Islands, Cozumel or Belize, but I got sand from each country because of the generosity of friends.

Believe it or not at times I also part with some of my precious sand to give as gifts. It's better than a t-shirt, isn't it? 

DISCOVERING THE WORLD GRAIN BY GRAIN

Personally, I feel the array of countries in my burgeoning collection is remarkable. I had always considered my quirky hobby to be rather unique, but in researching for this blog entry I have learned sand collecting is a well-established activity. It turns out there are collectors with samples from every continent, including Antarctica, and there are groups of collectors that actively trade and even chat online about sand. I think this is a bit extreme, but it you’re interested:

SAND COLLECTORS CORNER

MORE SAND COLLECTORS

Evidently there is something to learn from a sand collection too, although I feel this certainly takes all the fun out of collecting. Here is a NY Times article on collecting:  

NY TIMES SAND COLLECTING ARTICLE

SANDS OF TIME

I have traveled to Hawaii several times over the years and have collected sand from such storied places like Waikiki, Hanauma Bay, Waimea Bay, Malaekahana Bay, Punalu'u, and the Banzai Pipeline, but there’s always another beach somewhere! Here is a listing of the beaches I collected from this last trip.

Oahu

Kaena Point

Oahu is the most populated Hawaiian island, but we stayed way out in the country, in Waialua town. It is pretty much the last town out in the northwest area of Oahu. From there it was a short ride to the end of the road and then the trail to Kaena Point, the jumping off place for spirits into the next world. The shore here is mostly small coves and treacherous waves. 

Maui

Maui was a brand new world of opportunity for me. In all my travels to Hawaii I have never visited the Valley Isle. It is the second largest of the Hawaiian Islands and has some of the nicest beaches in the state.

Ka’anapali Beach

We stayed on the resort stretch of the Ka’anapali Coast and got a sample near Black Rock, a lava formation that is a great place to snorkel.

 

Hana Bay Beach Park

Hana Bay Beach Park 

We traveled to Hana on that treacherous road, not only to say we survived the hundreds of turns and switchbacks, but to get sand at the Hana Beach Park, down the road from Wai’anapanapa State Park. This was the first black sand beach we would see on our travels to Hawaii, although they are everywhere on the Big Island. Visiting this silky smooth beach area was a glimpse of old Hawaii. Sadly it was raining when we finally arrived so did not really explore the area or the sleepy town of Hana.so it was somewhat anticlimactic, although while there I did eat my first Loco Moco!

WHAT THE HELL IS A LOCO MOCO? 

Little Beach

Makena Beack Park is on the south coast of Maui. It is a beautiful scenic beach, but can be a dicey place to swim. Often the waves are rolling and it’s a great place to swim and boogie board, but every once in a while a rogue wave breaks dangerously close to shore catching swimmers unawares and earning its dubious nickname. Makena Beach is sectioned into two parts. The first is Big Beach. It is very wide and over half a mile long and the locals call it “Breakneck” Beach. If you swim here, or at Little Beach, located on the other side of a lava rock formation, make sure you NEVER turn your back on the ocean.

To reach Little Beach you have to climb over a lava rock formation. Make sure you have two hands free in order to negotiate the steep climb. It is a somewhat clothing optional beach. Mind the sea turtles if you’re swimming nude!

We did a lot of exploring on Maui, but simply did not have enough time to explore the entire island.  This article is about the top ten beaches of the island and has me hankering for a return trip. 

TOP TEN MAUI BEACHES

Hawaii 

The Big Island is aptly named so it was not possible to see all of it in the time we had. Instead we concentrated our exploring in the southern districts of Hilo, Puna and Ka’u. Having been to the Kohala coast before, I was not concerned about collecting samples from these white sand beaches and had already collected sand from the beautiful black sand beach Punalu’u.

Papakolea Beach

All the beaches on the southern portion of the island are black except for the most southern point of the United States, Papakolea Beach, or Green Sand Beach. It’s a trek to get there, but worth the endeavor. Not only after a 2.5 mile hike the water is refreshing, but to see one of just four green sand beaches in the world is striking.

Papakolea, Green Sand Beach

Kalapana

Kilauea began its most recent eruption in the 1980’s and it eventually covered a number of towns in the Puna district. According to the National Park Service’s estimation this lava flow has added 500 acres to the island. I was last in Kalapana in 1988 to see the lava slowly creeping across the town and roads. On this recent trip we got to see the aftermath. The cooled black lava ends abruptly at the ocean’s edge where it is slowly being pounded by the incessant waves into “sand”. The lava cliffs here are about 10 feet high! The sand is the newest I have ever collected. 

Kilauea Iki Crater Trail

Kilauea Iki Crater Trail

If you travel to the Big Island, be sure to visit the Volcano National Park. This fascinating area has plenty of sights and activities during the day and the evening. There is hiking throughout the park, some trails are long and some, like the Thurston Lava Tube are fairly short. One quite unique hike is called the Kilauea Iki Crater Trail. A moderate, roughly 4 mile trek, it descends through a rain forest and onto the cooled floor of a once molten lave lake which last erupted in 1959. It takes roughly 2-3 hours and no, the soles of your shoes won’t melt, but you can feel the heat blowing through some of the cracks. This otherworldly experience merited a collection, albeit a thimble sized amount. I didn’t want to anger Pele…

VOLCANO NATIONAL PARK

view of crater floor

PELE'S WRATH?

I had heard that bad luck would come to anyone taking Pele's lava. She is the goddess of volcanoes and at best her demeanor can be capricious. At her worst she is quite volatile, and she doesn't like people taking what is hers. The threat of such ill fated fortune certainly danced through my head on my earlier visit to the Big Island in 1988. One morning I drove from my rented room in Hilo to Kalapana, which was slowly being consumed by lava. I took photos and watched locals do various things with the lava. Using a shovel they scooped up a glowing orange blog of molten rock and splat it against the pavement. They then forced a long metal pipe in one end and a mailbox on the other, and without melting either, fused them together. I managed to get a dollop that had quickly cooled to a shiny black with silvery highlights. I carried it back to the rental car with reverence. I intended to bring it home, but I absently left it behind. Secretly I was pleased, afraid of Pele's revenge. 

Kalapana 1988 lava flow (c) greg dunaj

In the past I've also heeded signs that say not to remove sand at various places in Hawaii and would be stealthy in my collecting, but truthfully unless and you pull up to the beach with a backhoe and dump truck no one will care. I foolishly sweated through the TSA checkpoint on the way home. I was afraid they would say I couldn't take the sand home, but they only checked to see if it was an explosive; black sand does look like gunpowder. I was relieved when the hulking Hawaiian native TSA agent did his chemical tests and said, "yep, that's sand," and cleared me to return to New Jersey with my collection intact. 

Kalapana 2014

Mahalo for reading! 

love Janet and greg

OUR TIME IN EDEN

ENJOY THE VIEW

How precious and fleeting is life? How fortunate that we have lived and breathed and laughed and loved for all these days? As the recent lava flows on the Big Island threaten the town of Pahoa, we are reminded of the capriciousness of life. Our time in Eden is sadly, short-lived, both figuratively and literally. Yet, imbued with the infectious Aloha spirit where time slows and attitudes lilt, Team VFH realizes how serendipity and chance can soften the blows of such realities, or unfortunately add to our grief. Well, rather than cobbling together a list of cautionary tales perhaps it is better to just sit back and enjoy the view, and what better place than in Hawaii.

Maui Palms (C) Pierre Leclerc

Of course, opting to travel to Hawaii is not done lightly, especially for your favorite cheapskates. The cost of such a trip cannot be ignored. Airfares are steep. Food can be expensive and Hawaii’s gas prices are the highest in the United States. It is far away. This tropical archipelago is the most isolated population center in the world. California is 2,300 miles away and Japan is 3,800 miles distant. You can’t go much further west before you hit the International Date Line and the day starts anew. So, if you come this far you should not complain about the costs; just enjoy the view. What is particularly fascinating is that on this range of massive volcanic mountains, just barely peeking above the blue Pacific, one has the same expectations of life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness as they would in New Jersey.

NEW JERSEY PALM

Okay, I’ll give you the scenery and weather of Hawaii’s Eden is a bit lovelier than New Jersey’s Eden, although paradise in both places is fairly expensive. A recent article puts Hawaii and NJ in the top seven most expensive places to live in the United States. Yes, it may be a “self-evident truth,” but it’s gonna cost ya. If you opt to travel to Hawaii then, throw out your budget.  Considering a move? Convince yourself you won't survive "island fever"; your pocketbook will be happier in the long run. 

MOST EXPENSIVE STATES TO LIVE

URBAN DICTIONARY DEFINITION OF ISLAND FEVER

Here’s a game to play. This website compares cost of living between cities. I compared my historic and touristed little river town, Lambertville, New Jersey with Lahaina, a spirited tourist town on the Valley Isle, Maui. According to the website it is 38% more expensive in Lahaina, Maui than my place in New Jersey. I admit it’s not a very fun game for dreamers.

WHERE TO LIVE?

Going FULL TOURIST

SERENDIPITY AND CHANCE AND HAPPY HOURS
Thankfully there is one self-evident truth in Hawaii that surprisingly is not expensive. In fact Happy Hours, that sensible catering to the thirsty masses, are rather pervasive on Maui. One might not expect Hawaii and especially Maui, to be so reasonable, but even in the deepest recesses of the resort stretch along the Ka’anapali coast on West Maui one can find a number of places to get out of the sun and drink cheaply. Some of the joints are on the beach offering incredible views of the ocean and others are in strip malls, and some are hidden in industrial neighborhoods. There is a website that can help you navigate through all the options. It is from 2013, but hey, this is Aloha time central, so you know this is still up-to-date. MAUI HAPPY HOURS

Doing research at Duke's

Of course, with such a list one may have to throw out all other activities on Maui if you wanted to binge your way through all the listings! During a week of non-stop antics for your favorite moochers it was a wonder we managed to find the time to quench our thirst. 

Readers of this blog may remember our week of Maui exploring. On Monday we did the much ballyhooed "Road to Hana" and survived. Tuesday we went full-tourist and attended the Old Lahaina Luau. Wednesday was a beach day at Makena State Park's Little Beach and then a Willie K Dinner Show at Mulligan's on the Blue that evening. Thursday we went snorkeling at the crescent shaped islet Molokini and Friday had us greeting the sun atop Mount Haleakala before hurtling white-knuckled down the massive shield volcano on bikes.

Mai-Tai's at Dukes

Despite our limited free time we managed to squeeze in some libation research. Just a few to share here.

MAUI BREWING COMPANY
Since our arrival on Hawaii I had been drinking the Maui Brewing Company's Big Swell IPA in cans and our first research drinking soiree was to go to the source. Inside the large, airy brewpub contrasts the strip mall location. They offer an extensive variety of very good MBC beers that are written on chalkboards and a strip of ice embedded in the bar to keep your selection cold. Decent price for burgers and the Happy Hour is daily from 3-6 pm and beers are $5.00 for pints.
MAUI BREWING COMPANY

Maui Brewing Company

DUKE'S BEACH HOUSE
I'm always wary about slick, touristy joints like Duke's Beach House. It screams expensive. After all it is right on the Ka'anapali Beach Boardwalk with resorts everywhere. On our first day on Maui we took a stroll along the boardwalk and were pleasantly surprised by their "Aloha" hour prices. From 3-5 pm many of their beer offerings are under $5 and Mai-Tai's were $6. We were fully expecting our libations to set us back a day's pay or two!  Of course, Janet insisted on eating the flowers they floated in our drinks!
DUKE'S BEACH HOUSE

Sunset at Hula Grill

HULA GRILL's BAREFOOT BAR
This joint is right on the ocean and we snagged a couple of pews at the crowded Hula Grill Barefoot Bar to drink some Mai-Tai's and watch the sunset. This evening it seemed everyone had the same idea. Located at the very busy Whaler's Village shopping mall, the Hula Grill brimmed with tourists. Thankfully live music, sand a beautiful sunset and pupus like Hawaiian Creviche and Crab & Macademia Nut Wontons, helped us overlook the commotion. Their Aloha hour is also 3-5 pm and features $6 Mai-Tai's. 
HULA GRILL

BETTY'S BEACH CAFE
Speaking of serendipity it certainly was a pleasant surprise to discover Betty's Beach Cafe our last evening on Maui. This little gem is on Front Street in Lahaina but far enough from the burgeoning tourist areas. We went there on a Friday evening and it was quiet. Betty's Beach Cafe is set in the back of an unassuming little mall, but the back lanai has not only a great view of the ocean and sunsets, but also free view of the smaller and more intimate Feast at Lele Luau. This luau features fire dancing, something the Old Lahaina Luau does not. So, if you're inclined to save money you can reserve a seat with Betty on her lanai.

view from Betty's lanai

Betty's Beach Cafe is open from 8 am for breakfast through to midnight. With food specials like Wednesday night lobster dinners and daily drink specials like $2 margaritas and $3 mai-tais for their early and late happy hours Betty's Beach Cafe should be a destination for the budget conscience whether or not you want to see the luau for free. Had we more time in Maui I would have insisted on becoming a regular at this joint. 
BETTY'S BEACH CAFE

Okay, if you're interested in spending money you too can go FULL TOURIST and go to the Feast at Lele Luau. Go here for particulars: FEAST AT LELE But, here is a sample of what you'll see from Betty's lanai!

Mahalo for reading. Here's hoping your Thanksgiving and Holiday season is spent in the company of friends and family. Stay safe. Love, Janet and greg

THE HOUSE OF THE SUN

MOUNT HALEAKALA

On a beautiful tropical island of "must-do" escapades, Team VFH’s trip to Maui's Mount Haleakala to see the sunrise topped them all, literally. We saved the best for last, for not only did we drive up to the top of this massive mountain to see the first rays of a Friday morning in what could be described as a solemn event, we then hurtled down the mountain on bikes. The combination of sublime beauty and terrifying exhilaration made Team VFH’s final full day on Maui one to remember. 

Maui lassoing the sun

Two volcanoes make up Maui. On the western side is Mauna Kahalawai. It is the older of the two and has eroded over millions of years. There are deep valleys, ridges and steep cliffs on West Maui. Those crevices capture moisture which graces us daily with beautiful rainbows and a broad, flat western shoreline. This is where our Kaanapali resort is located as well as the spirited town of Lahaina. 

Looming over all though is the majestic Mount Haleakala. She rises 10,023 feet above the Pacific. This shield volcano makes up three quarters of Maui which is the second largest island in the Hawaiian archipelago. But Haleakala rises from the ocean floor. If one calculates the height from there, she is 30,000 feet in elevation and taller than Mt. Everest at 29,000. 

Haleakala is a shield volcano, named because of its gently sloped profile, which looks like a warrior's shield laying face up. The gradual slope that steepens in the middle before flattening out at the summit is formed by "Hawaiian eruptions", the name given to steady flows of very fluid pahoehoe lava that over time accumulates in broad sheets that result in this massive, unique shape. Also created by these "Hawaiian" eruptions are Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea on the Big Island.

Pahoehoe lava '88 (c) 2014 g dunaj

In the Hawaiian language Haleakala means House of the Sun and ancient lore has it that the demigod Maui lassoed the sun to force it to slow down as it raced across the sky. Evidently Maui's mother was unable to get her tapa cloth dried, because the sun was moving too fast. Only when the sun agreed to slow down 6 months of the year did Maui let him go and that's how we get longer days in the summer.

The crater at the summit is large enough to fit Manhattan inside it, at 7.5 miles long and 2.5 miles wide and 3,000 feet deep. The crater has its own mini-mountain range inside it with a line of cinder cones with the tallest at 1,000 feet in elevation. It is possible to hike and even ride horses through the crater of the dormant volcano, but Janet and I went to the summit of Haleakala to witness the sunrise. All our week on Maui we have cooed over brilliant sunsets, on our last full day here we decided to greet the day.  

the rare silversword

SATELLITES OF LOVE

Despite the allure of a breath-taking sunrise, Mt. Haleakala is a foreboding place. You are very, very far away from the tropics at the barren summit. The only plant that grows at the top is the endangered Silversword and it grows nowhere else but above 6,900 feet at Mount Haleakala. Temperatures at the top are as much as 30 degrees colder than at sea level and some people can experience thin air sickness if they ascend too quickly. But, at 10,023 feet the visibility is incredible and on cloudless, moonless nights the Milky Way is readily seen while at the summit of Haleakala and even satellites can be seen arcing across the heavens on occasion. The potential to see such an array of heavenly beauty was fascinating to me and this excursion was high on my list. I was willing to risk cold, thin air and sleep deprivation all for this chance. The main event, the sunrise at the summit of Mount Haleakala was almost secondary. 

SUNRISE / SUNSET 

It is not necessary to book a “tour” with a company to visit Mount Haleakala. You can negotiate the zig-zag road that climbs 38 miles up the mountain yourself and pay the $10 admission per car for a three day pass to the Haleakala National Park and go at any time of the day. Activities at the summit area of the park include hiking, camping, horseback riding as well as the sunrise. The pass also gets you into the Kipahulu Valley rainforest district during the 3 day span. 

sunrise at Mt Haleakala

Now, traveling to the summit for the sunset is an option. It is less popular and far less crowded. Hundreds of people will line the guardrail at the lip of the crater to watch the sunrise, but at sunset there are a few dozen. It is beautiful either time of the day, but just be aware that temperatures will drop with the setting sun and you will have to drive down that mountain in the dark. There are no street lamps.

You may be inclined to go it alone for the sunrise, but be aware there is plenty of competition for space at the summit as this is a very popular activity on Maui and gridlock on the dark road is quite possible. When the parking lot is filled the rangers won't let anymore cars into the park. At the summit, getting out of the van, our tour guides pointed out the line of headlights still waiting to get into the park. It got to be very crowded, but the guides ushered us to an area near the guardrail at the edge of the crater and we had an unobstructed view of the sunrise as it slowly revealed the vast crater of Mount Haleakala. Plus, without the guides we would have missed the second part of this incredible excursion, which was riding bikes white-knuckled down the mountain.

HURTLING DOWN HALEAKALA

There was a savings booking our trip to Mt. Haleakala through the concierge at our resort, but the fee was still as steep as the road to the crater. At least the outfit we went with, BIKE IT MAUI also included a breakfast with their $120 tab per person. 

The Bike It Maui van picked us up at the ungodly hour of 2:00 am, which seemed excessively early. But, sunrise was around 5:40 that morning and from our resort to the crater was 54 miles. They also made the rounds picking up other patrons from other resorts and then picking up one of the guides, Manny, in Kahului. We also stopped for refreshments in Kahului, for there is nothing available at the crater summit, and then later the actual equipment in a trailer that they hitched to the van. This all took a long while, so sadly by the time we reached the crater. bundled in the warm rain gear Bike It Maui provided us, the sky already had a hint of light on the horizon. We did not see the Milky Way.

Janet's suggestion to take a blanket from the resort seemed a bit over zealous, but it proved to be very necessary. Balmy at sea level it was very cold at the top. The wind was steady and added to the chill. Already bundled in our Bike It Maui attire we gathered the blanket around us and I hugged Janet close for warmth as we watched the night slip away and the glorious sun illuminate the other worldly crater that stretched out from our perch. Just as the sun came up a National Park volunteer greeted the day with a Hawaiian chant in a loud clear voice which only added to the revered start to this day.

DAWN

E ala e Ka la i kahikina
I ka moana
Ka moana hohonu
Pi’i ka lewa
Ka lewa nu’u
I kahikina
Aia ka la.
E ala e!

It is called a Mele Oli or a free verse chanted poetry. When the volunteer began this blessing of the day I was in awe to be so graced. Truthfully I felt humbled; by the enormity of the mountain and its beauty, the solemness of this sacred place and the reverence shown it by the native Hawaiians. I hugged Janet a bit closer.

We lingered for awhile afterwards around the summit and through the visitor center before being ushered to the van by our guides. It was time for us to head down the mountain. 

Safety First

RIGHT SIDE OF THE YELLOW LINE

This last part of the morning would have been frightening if the crew from Bike It Maui did not place a strong emphasis on safety. Throughout the ride up Mount Haleakala, while fitting us for clothes and gloves and helmets and bikes they talked about safety concerns. How beautiful the scenery will be and how treacherous the road will be if we admire it for too long as we ride our bikes!!! After a number of fatalities in the park from riders ooing and aahing at the great vistas and going off the edge of the road, riding bikes in the park has been prohibited. All bike tour companies are required to drive their patrons out of the park to begin their descent.

After fitting us with helmets and bikes and telling us again and again about keeping a safe distance between us and the next bike AND making sure we stay on the right side of the yellow lines (because bad things happen on the wrong side), we set off for a 28 mile trip down hill. 

Thankfully our bicycle brakes worked. Except for a brief period, we rode almost the entire way down without pedaling. We barreled down the mountain in an orderly line with our guide, Manny, in the lead, somehow negotiating his way half the time looking back on us. The support van trailed us. We never felt in danger despite the swift speeds, and, as for the remarkable views, we did stop a ways down to pose for pictures with Manny orchestrating silly poses for us. 

At one point we all got back in the van to get through the rustic upcountry town of Makawao. The Bike It Maui team thought it was too busy and they did not want to risk getting hit by a Paniolos in his Mercedes. Paniolos is what they call cowboys in Hawaii. We did not get a chance to stop and explore this town that has a vibrant artistic community as well as the largest rodeo in all of Hawaii. The Makawao Rodeo has been held on the Fourth of July for over 50 years. As we negotiated the streets of Makawao we ogled the boutiques, galleries and the Rodeo General Store making mental notes that this is yet another destination on Maui worth exploring. MAKAWAO. 

The last leg after Makawao was short. The temperature rose. We finally shed all the outer layers provided us by Bike It Maui. The biking portion of the trip ended at the Holy Rosary Church in Paia. As Manny and his assistant fiddled with the equipment before we headed off for our well earned breakfast and a much needed nap in the van we peeked inside the Holy Rosary Church. All this paradise and beauty that is Maui and lives still are lived. We smiled back at the young faces of the newly confirmed posing happily in pictures displayed in the church's foyer.  I love Hawaii. 

Mahalo for reading and hope your day is filled with Aloha.

Manny in front!

CRATER SNORKELING

MOLOKINI
Every day Team VFH stayed on Maui was planned, even our idle times. All the sightseeing excursions and even the well-earned time at sand gravity were all charted and coursed and with good reason. There is so much to do on Maui and with only a week available to us at the Ka’anapali Beach Club we were determined to see as much of Maui as possible. After all it’s expensive to get to Hawaii and Maui is a very pricey place so no time was wasted, but, even with all of our planning we had to make executive decisions about where our allotted time would lead us and we had to sigh with resignation at not having enough time to do everything. 

Now, you may think this would be debilitating to a vacation, to have every moment planned? It is very feasible to just kick back at the resort and let the days saunter into happy hours and sunsets, but Hawaii, and particularly Maui, has so much beauty to offer that it would be a shame to just sit on a chaise lounge every day!

A room with a view

So far on Maui we have done a lot. We’ve ambled past resort after resort along the Ka’anapali Beackwalk, stopping for Mai Tai’s (of course) at Duke’s. We have taken the lovely and treacherous Road to Hana. We have gone “full tourist” to attend the “authentic” Old Lahaina Luau. We have dodged Honu the sea turtle while frolicking in the surf at the clothing optional Little Beach at Makena State Park and attended an incredible Uncle Willie dinner show concert at Mulligan’s on the Blue. Of course, we have also sat at the pool, were graced by rainbows each afternoon and sighed at the sunsets over Molokai as we stood on the beach hand-in-hand. We’ve had dinner at a restaurant along busy Front Street in Lahaina and had drinks at the Maui Brewing Company Brewpub, whose bar features a strip of ice to keep the beer cold. It’s been a very busy half week with all these “must-do” Maui destinations.

Next on the agenda for Team VFH was another must-do Maui excursion; snorkeling at Molokini. It is a partially sunken volcanic cone that has formed a curved islet. Approximately 3 miles off shore, in the channel between Makena State Park and the Target Isle, Kahoolawe, Molokini is the number one spot to snorkel on an island that has plenty of exceptional sites for the sport.  When I first saw pictures of the crescent shaped island I was shocked by the exotic beauty and my immediate thought was this had to be very inaccessible and a destination only for locals or the privileged. Thankfully Molokini was neither. With morning sails out of Maalaea Bay from several companies Molokini proved to be very accessible and a top tourist destination with good reason.
Because of the curved shape of Molokini the water inside the crater is sheltered from the ocean currents and this calm safe haven is home to several hundred species of fish and other marine-life. Molokini is in the middle of the channel and deep water and there are no sand deposits. The water is exceptionally clear and visibility is up to 150 feet. This combination of calm waters and pristine clarity make Molokini the number one destination for snorkeling on Maui. 

MAUI SNORKELING DESTINATIONS

Molokini is a State Marine Life and Seabird Conservation District and access is limited and going ashore is prohibited. Obviously disrupting the coral is too. Of course the fish are used to humans invading their home and are tame. Still to get to Molokini you need to take a tour. Each of the licensed tour companies have mooring spots so as not to disturb the coral. We went with Quicksilver and purchased our tickets through the resort at a discount. Still it was not cheap at $123 for the two of us. It was well worth the expense for this unique experience though. The price included a continental breakfast and a lunch. Alcoholic drinks were available after snorkeling for a very reasonable price. Underwater cameras were available for rental and by the time the Quicksilver docked again at Maalaea Bay the crew would have burned dvds of your pictures. We rented wetsuits because the water was cooler and they helped keep us afloat but the snorkeling gear was all included. 
QUICKSILVER MAUI

I have to say that the crater was somewhat crowded There were a lot of tour companies represented and there were a lot of bodies in the water, but Janet and I were able to glide along with comfort. The captain announced that the visibility at Turtle Town was poor. This was the second destination for our planned snorkeling adventure and because of the conditions there the Captain opted to stay longer than usual at Molokini, that it was not worth the effort to travel there. After awhile a lot of people returned to the boat anyway and for awhile we had free run of the crater largely to ourselves, unpressed for time. 

THE MAYOR OF TURTLE TOWN

We were disappointed though in not venturing over to "Turtle Town". It is an area near Maluaka Beach in South Maui and the protected Hawaiian Green Sea Turtle is in abundance here. The waters of this beach are calm and inviting to the turtles because Mount Haleakala blocks the prevailing trade winds. It is possible to drive to the area and snorkel from shore. Had we more time on Maui we might have visited these gentle creatures.
TURTLE TOWN INFO

Mahalo for reading. Sorry for the delay between entries. Please come back to read more about Team VFH 's extended trip through the Hawaiian Islands!

Janet and greg

MOLOKINI AND NO BIKINI

LITTLE BEACH

Our Wednesday in Maui was a planned beach day. Maui has especially lovely beaches, mostly along the western coastline from D.T. Fleming Park north of Lahaina all the way down to Big Beach at Makena Beach State Park with a few in the north mostly centered in the valley between Kahului and Paia. In the town of Hana, on the extreme eastern edge of Maui, there are also a couple of beaches; a red sand beach and a black sand beach at Wai’anapanapa State Park. Mostly the northern edge of the island is rockier with cliffs although there are coves where

Wai’anapanapa State Park Hana

you can swim if interested but they have none of the facilities found in the beach parks. All the beach parks no matter how small have bathrooms and outdoor showers. South of Lahaina for lengthy stretches along Route 30 there are no official “beach parks” but we noticed lots of people parked and surfing and camping. Basically if you find a place that strikes your fancy you can swim. Hawaiian law says no one can own the surf and so even if you have private property people can have access to your beach. “Beach access” signs are everywhere, sometimes next to some very exclusive looking property.

And, the best part is they are all free, no New Jersey type beach tags necessary along any of

Big Beach

the 30 official miles of Maui beaches.

We decided to go to Little Beach this day. Clothing optional bathing is tolerated here and the beach is just over a little hill from Big Beach. Park at Makena Beach State Park and when you get to Big Beach make a right or follow people towards the collapsed cinder cone. Unlike Big Beach there are no bathroom facilities or lifeguards at Little Beach, just some gnarled trees and sadly some people who come to Little Beach to ogle…a bit too long. There were all kinds of people at the beach that day, from young to old wrinkly folks who don’t care what they look like

Little Beach with Molokini

anymore…ahem… me… But, the water was clear; we could see turtles in the water; and refreshing. The waves were strong though, you have to be a careful for sometimes the surf broke very close to shore. You can be several feet in the air on a wave and then pounded into 3 inches of water. Nearby Big Beach bears the dubious nickname of “Breakneck Beach” for this very reason and afterwards we learned that someone just last week cracked a vertebra in the capricious waters. So if you decide to go to either Big or Little Beach please be sure you are very aware of your surroundings.

We survived the day though. After making sure our sun screen was applied appropriately we

Molokini

lounged in the warm sun and cooled off in the beautiful water when necessary. From Little Beach there are great views of Molokini, a half-submerged crater 3 miles offshore and great for snorkeling, and Kahoolawe, nicknamed the Target Island. Uninhabited because of a lack of fresh water Kahoolawe was used by the military for target practice from WWII until it was stopped in 1990.

To avoid the sun some people draped towels or blankets over the gnarled trees at Little Beach to form shady areas; others brought umbrellas. It was very low key, but it was a Wednesday. Sunday afternoon and evening is very different. The beach gets crowded with people and a “drum circle” forms and fire dancers contort along with the rhythm. Not sure why they do it, but I’m sure it has something to do with Aloha Spirit. If you decide to go, make sure you bring a flashlight because the hike over the hill is rough and after sunset it’ll be more treacherous. Perhaps you’ll run into Steve Tyler, that guy from Aerosmith.

He’s been known to make the trek to Little Beach… Myself, I’m holding out for Liv. Oops …sorry Janet.
LITTLE BEACH

GO….

Mahalo for reading!

Here's a video of the drum circle...

PASS THE POI

THE OLD LAHAINA LUAU

I had never been interested in going to a Luau. It was a destination for tourists after all, parodied by the likes of Fred Flintstone, who had a famous line in one episode where he was cast in a Hawaiian Island movie: “Pass the Poi,” he said, practicing it over and over. It is probably good advice to never hire a lawyer who can discuss individual episodes of the

Flintstones, although this quality is admirable with hack travel writers. But, I digress here.

Seriously though, I thought luaus were events where Hawaiian natives hula’ed the night away for the benefit of brash tourists wearing loud Aloha shirts as they gobbled down Kalua Pork and LauLau and got drunk on Mai-Tais as they lasciviously ogled the young native dancers in their grass skirts and coconut bras. I thought such “celebrations” held for us haoles were cheap and degrading to the Native Hawaiians. We had already stolen their kingdom, now we have them performing like trained pets.

Despite my observations Janet insisted on going to one and I’m not one to go against her wishes.

HOW COULD I SAY "NO"?

“Yes Dear,” are the two most essential words a man can ever utter. But, I digress here.

She did her research well and got us two tickets for the Old Lahaina Luau. It is a traditional hula and feast and very well attended. All the reviews were aglow about this particular luau, perhaps because it was not a bunch of “fire-eaters showing off.” We were on stand-by and fortunate to get seats. The Old Lahaina Luau is held nightly, but the waiting list stretched until mid-August. We went on our Tuesday in Maui and we traveled to this area of Lahaina called Moali’i, just north of the main tourist area. It’s on Front Street and across from the Lahaina Cannery Mall.

Joking aside, in the tradition of old Hawaii, travelers were always offered food as a show

POI IS UPPER RIGHT

of love and respect and the beginnings of the hula may have been as both a religious ritual while also providing entertainment for the rulers. Until a written language was created Hawaiian lore was passed to the next generation through stories and displays of the dances that we witnessed on our fortuitous night at the luau. Keeping such old Hawaiian traditions are very important to the Hawaiian people who take great pride in their history and the Old Lahaina Luau showed a progression of dance and music from ancient drum dances through to the missionary hulas, the modern hulas before finishing with a Tahitian fete celebration of dance that features solo dancers.

Most interestingly, Lahaina, Maui today is a tourist town. Shops, restaurants and bars catering to the tourist trade crowd Front Street. But, before it was a tourist destination, and before it was the center of the Pacific whaling industry and a plantation town, Lahaina was the capital of the kingdom of Hawaii and the residence of ancient kings who would come here for rest and play. So, it’s conceivable that a luau in Lahaina with its feast and hula is the real McCoy.

We were greeted at the Old Lahaina Luau with music and Lei’s and Mai-Tai’s and seated at a l

TOURIST CENTRAL

ong line of tables surrounding a large central stage and then invited to walk the grounds past several displays of Hawaiian crafts and take hula lessons and bask in a glorious sunset. It was crowded with haoles and yes there were a lot of crazy Aloha shirts on display, but the Aloha Spirit was strong here (aided by more Mai-Tai’s and Little Tita’s and Honey Girls and Blue Hawaiians, all with “extra-loving” poured by the shirtless bartenders in traditional garb...that's more rum kids). Then we were invited to surround the underground oven or Imu for the digging up of the Kalua Pig. Dinner was served buffet style and the traditional feast featured not only the pig, but the poke (both Ahi and He’e …octopus…) and yes Poi. We did not pass on the poi by the way.

The feast continued with steak and chicken and island prepared fish and several side dishes.

Front St. Lahaina

We ate and drank a lot and the show was informative and beautiful. When couples were invited to dance to a modern song played by the live band, Janet and I twirled happily in the warm Hawaiian night. Though it was all steeped in tradition it was a bit hokey, but wonderfully loveable and for one night I did not mind being a tourist.
OLD LAHAINA LUAU

Go…

Before we went to the luau we spent a full relaxing day in the sun at the resort lounging by the

BANYAN TREE LAHAINA

pool. We left a little earlier than necessary to stroll around Lahaina a bit, stopping by the old massive banyan tree that fills a city block and to poke our noses in some of the shops in the area.  It may all be just a tourist destination but this area of the world is beautiful. 

Mahalo for reading.

Here is a taste of what we enjoyed at the Old Lahaina Luau. We hope your travels lead you to such enchanting destinations.