THE SITUATION

This year is the 100^th anniversary of the beginning of World War I. The global conflict raged until 1918, with the United States entering the conflagration in 1917. The world had never experienced war at this scale before and it left behind a “lost generation” of dissolute men. Back in the United States towns were urged to erect some sort of memorial to these brave soldiers, perhaps not only to honor them, but to soften the blows they had suffered.

A very popular statue from this time was the Spirit of the American Doughboy sculpted by E.M. Viquesney. It was a copper plated image of a Doughboy striding forth with a grenade in his right hand and a bayonetted rifle in his left. Because it was copper plated and not solid, it was cheaper to produce, and purchase, and Viquesney’s company claimed to have at least one statue in every state. Today it is estimated there are approximately 150 Spirit statues remaining and New Jersey has eight of them.

Vacations From Home has been traveling around New Jersey seeking out these statues and this is the fourth in the series. The first three were spread out over a large area, which in the small state of New Jersey this says a lot about the distances involved. Team VFH first ventured to Secaucus in Hudson County on the grounds of the municipal complex. Secaucus is just a couple of miles away from the Lincoln Tunnel and New York City. Then we visited Frenchtown on the far western side of the state, near the Delaware River to see the statue that stood in front of the local grade school. The third statue was in the iron hills of Dover, Morris County, nestled in the pastoral Hurd Park sitting atop an impressive cairn.

Of the remaining five memorials, four are relatively close to each other along or near the Jersey shore. It is quite possible to tool around and see them all in one day. Hopefully after you get some leads though from this humble blog you’ll want to take your time and linger in the towns.

Here is the first of our Jersey shore towns....

BELMAR

Belmar 

The memorial here in this shore town, the town of my youth, witness to many a debauched weekend, is away from the ocean and near an overpass of Route 35. Despite the location the park is well tended and neat and the statue is in great condition. Names of WWI battles are etched into the pedestal The Spirit statue was first dedicated in 1930 in front of what was first the American Legion Hall, which then evolved into the municipal building and community hall

Dedication ceremony 1930

before the statue was refurbished and when rededicated and moved in 2006 a block or so away to its present site along West Railroad Avenue between 7^th and 8^th Avenues. The names of 102 soldiers are listed on the plaque. 

THINKING of VISITING?

Belmar isn’t quite the Jersey shore made famous by that MTV reality show, but it is kinda close. I spent many a day sneaking onto the beach, and dodging the beach patrols and drinking in the area bars and sleeping in cars to avoid paying for a room. Sigh….what fun and fond memories. Well, that facet of the town remains and let me tell you it’s not just the Jersey Shore. I once was in Surfer’s Paradise, Queensland, Australia and during my morning run I saw many kids sleeping in cars, so, I guess it’s acceptable? Consequently don’t come to this blog for places to stay, because I’ll say the backseat.

But, the beach is great here, if expensive; New Jersey towns all charge entrance fees. Even with the crowds that pour into the town during the summer months there is a family aspect as well. There are several playgrounds on the beach for kids and activities like volleyball nets set up for public use as well as events like sand sculpting competitions. Also for the kids there is a Surfing camp at 3^rd Avenue. Cowabunga indeed. Yes, the surf is strong here. The Beach Boys mentioned Belmar in their song Surfing USA and there is a part still sectioned off for surfers which I believe is near 19^th Avenue. In September there is a professional surfing competition. Check the website for details. BELMAR SURFING COMPETITION

The boardwalk is a great place to run even if you have to slalom around the strollers, and there are a number of well attended races in town each summer. Go to the town’s website for races and other events.

BELMAR

FOOD and DRINK

This area of the Jersey Shore is affectionately known as the Irish Riviera. Filled with Benny’s (not Shoobees) and there are so many places to carouse and eat no list will be complete. Also, nearby towns like Avon-by-the-Sea and Spring Lake, are also worth visiting. Here is an incomplete list of places to visit off the beach:

Klein’s Fish Market and Waterside Cafe

On River Road, just off the Shark River inlet, the place is loud and crowded and fun. The food is a bit pricey, but you can’t beat the water view.

 KLEIN'S FISH MARKET AND WATERSIDE CAFE

D’Jais

When I was a younger man D’Jais on Ocean Avenue was always the place to go in Belmar for grabbing a beer. It still is.

D'JAIS

Columns

Outside of Belmar, and really a very short drive, are a number of notable places to go for a beer or food. Just north of Belmar is the laid back town of Avon-by-the-Sea. Compared to Belmar, Avon is very quiet. The Columns is on Ocean Avenue, just across from the boardwalk. Get a seat on the lanai and sip your drink and enjoy the view of the ocean.

"The Columns at Avon" by Paula Kolojeski 

THE COLUMNS IN AVON

Norwood Inn

A great dive bar in Avon is the Norwood Inn at 618 Second Avenue. It is stately but worn.  Not much of abeer selection, but it’s a friendly place and the food will carry you along. Thankfully they filled in the pool that was in the backyard, I guess there were too many unexpected dunks. There is live music and if you stay late enough maybe you’ll get a room, or at least stay for brunch.

THE NORWOOD INN AVON

Kelly’s

A (very) short jump away from Belmar is Kelly’s in Neptune City.  I love this place, and have

KELLY'S

been known to drive out of my way to go here for beers and food. Again, the Irish are well represented here, with a map of Ireland on the ceiling above the bar, which is just a couple of feet from the sushi station. Go for the Ham Galway sandwich and the $15 buckets of beer special during the World Cup matches.

KELLY'S TAVERN, NEPTUNE

BTW… Jack Nicholson was born in Neptune as well as Southside Johnny Lyon from Southside Johnny and the Asbury Jukes!

Arcades

The SilverBall Museum

No visit to the Jersey Shore would be complete without a trip to the Arcade. Pinball was always a favorite pastime for me! If you’re interested in a side trip, just north is Asbury Park and the SilverBall Museum just a couple of hundred feet from the famous music venue, The Stone Pony. Purchase an unlimited play pass for $10 from 5 pm until closing.   

THE SILVERBALL MUSEUM, ASBURY PARK

I could go on and on here, but your favorite mooch crew is off next to Fair Haven, NJ. I am sure I've missed something. If you feel compelled to add to this list, leave a comment or write us at: greg.dunaj@yahoo.com. If you decide to visit the Jersey Shore you may never want to go home again.

cheers

Janet and greg

Southside Johnny and the asbury jukes w/springsteen 1978

The Jewel of the Meadowlands

SECAUCUS
This is the start of Vacations From Home’s tribute to our fallen heroes from WWI, the War to End All Wars. The global conflict began 100 years ago, with the United States entering the war in 1917. Many of the memorials remain to this day and approximately 10% of them feature the Spirit of the American Doughboy by E.M. Viquesney. New Jersey has eight of these unique statues and our first visit is to Secaucus.

Secaucus

Like many of the remaining “Spirit” statues, the memorial is on Municipal property. Here it stands in front of the town hall on Paterson Plank Road and the dedication is to Joseph Hassenforder, the only soldier from Secaucus to have died in the conflict. Corporal Hassenforder was killed on July 15, 1918 and is buried in the Oise-Aisne American Cemetery, about two miles outside Fere-en-Tardenois, France. The “Spirit” statue is remarkably detailed after all these years, but can use some attention as he is listing a bit to his right.  It is also an interesting golden color and looks like he has been painted.

THINKING OF VISITING?

LOCATION

Secaucus is a popular town. Every year thousands of people pass through it via Route 3 on their way to New York City, which is just 4 miles away, or zip along on the NJ Transit trains that stop at the Secaucus Junction on their way to Manhattan’s Penn Station. Looming across the Hackensack River, which is the town’s western border, is Metlife Stadium where the Giants and Jets play and where the Super Bowl was recently held. Football fans may recall the Jets in their heyday had their “Broadway” Joe Namath. Conversely when the NY Football Giants migrated to the Meadowlands, their quarterback at the time, Joe Piscarcik, was called “Paterson Plank” Joe. Paterson Plank Road is the main thoroughfare through Secaucus. Despite all these “visitors” to Secaucus, it was somewhat shocking to discover it is a lovely little town, like an eddy off a turbulent river. Secaucus is called the Jewel of the Meadowlands for good reason, and despite the traffic hurtling along the highway, there is block after block of neat clean homes and quiet streets. It is serene.

ATTRACTIONS and HISTORY

When I lived in Northern New Jersey, my first introduction to Secaucus (other than commuting through it) involved the numerous outlet shops that are dotted throughout the vast industrial area that comprises much of the town. Secaucus was one of the original “outlets”, a word and concept fairly deluded now. Many of the stores are actually distribution warehouses for the products they sell. It’s not very fancy, but good buys can be found. Go here for a map of available shops.

SECAUCUS OUTLETS

Before it was a shopping mecca and jewel of the Meadowlands, Secaucus was home to over 50 pig farms and the porkers vastly out-numbered humans. Between the pigs and the rendering plants; the farms supplied meat to Newark and New York; it was smelly. I remember the old joke: ““you smell caucus before you Secaucus.”  The pigs are gone though and Secaucus is a little suburban town and home to a “Spirit of the American Doughboy” World War I memorial.

Another attraction is the Meadowlands Exposition Center on the westbound side of Route 3 that hosts varied events. Just recently the Great Beer Expo was held there and near there are many chain restaurants and some large stores like Wal-Mart are in this area. 

GREAT BEER EXPO

For future events at the Meadowlands Exposition Center:

MEADOWLANDS EXPOSITION CENTER SCHEDULE

Secaucus is also a good place for eco-tourism. The Hackensack River is the western border and there are trails throughout the meadowlands. One can rent canoes or kayaks, launch their own watercraft, or go on a guided tour of the marshlands offered by the Hackensack Riverkeeper, April through October.  It can be gritty though, with traffic whirring along the Turnpike, but it is so incredibly close to New York City. To see such natural beauty in the heart of this crowded metropolitan area is a fascinating world worth exploring. Of course, trail heads begin in places like… “next to the Stop ‘N Shop at the Mill Creek Mall” and perhaps fans of the Sopranos may feel this is a stomping ground for T’s crew, but that’s all fiction…right?

HACKENSACK RIVERKEEPER

Jewel of the Meadowlands

Parking

Because of Secaucus’ proximity to NYC, be aware that parking is a premium. The Municipal Complex is on the corner of Paterson Plank Road and County Road with no available parking on those streets. The facility has free parking in the back of the building, but I would not leave the car there to go explore the rest of the town. Signs for permit parking for residents only are prevalent on the side streets. There are a number of timed parking spots further down Paterson Plank Road and there is a little strip mall a few blocks away that does not seem to have a time limit.

FOOD AND DRINK

You want local New Jersey flavor? Go to Charlie’s Corner, across Paterson Plank Road and down a few blocks from the memorial. It is a good, honest cash only dive bar patronized by nearly every New Jersey character possible. There are bikers and hipsters, young professionals and old coots like myself. It’s loud with a robust sound system and a stage in the middle of the circular bar that hints that Charlie’s was once a strip joint. Not sure of this, but they do play the music loud. The Strokes was pounding through the speakers the night I stopped in. The décor is busy with pictures of patrons plastered all over the walls and sparkly things hanging from the ceiling. Sadly it was just the usual suspects in the beer department and it’s not the sort of place you ask for a beer menu. I saw someone with a Brooklyn Lager and ordered that for $5.00. Charlie’s is a bit seedy, but worth the stopover. Charlie's is at 1254 Paterson Plank Road.

Charlie's Corner

A few good recommendations for cheap, decent food are all at the Plaza Center down the road from the memorial. It’s a strip mall where you can park for a while. There’s a good pizzeria that serves generous slices at Plaza Pizza and next door is Vito and Sons Italian bakery; great pastries and cookies as well as cold sandwiches. If you’re lucky they have fresh mozzarella for sale the day you visit.  But, by far my favorite place to eat is the Bagel Buffet at the far end of the plaza. It’s a great place for sandwiches and salads all at reasonable prices. It’s clean with plenty of tables. There are no waitresses. Instead you order at the counter and as you wait you can watch them prepare and bake bagels in a huge oven. After they are boiled the baker arranges them on moistened slabs of wood that rotate into the oven. It’s fascinating.

There are so many reasons to go to Secaucus.

The next stop on our New Jersey excursion will be Frenchtown.

Thanks for reading.

Jersey Doughboys

This is not a military blog, but as the 100 year anniversary of the conflagration of the Great War approaches, Team VFH has thought to honor our fallen heroes with visits to the area’s WWI memorials. In an earlier entry we introduced you to the ubiquitous E.M. Viquesney statue, “Spirit of the America Doughboy”. It was produced in great quantities by the Indiana sculptor and roughly 300 were erected across the United States. There are approximately 140 still standing in various locales like town squares or parks and the relatively small state of New Jersey can boast it has eight. The statue is of an American Doughboy striding forward into “No-Man’s-Land”, holding a grenade in his right hand above his head. It is estimated by some historians and researchers that of all the WWI memorials erected 10% feature the Viquesney Doughboy.

To find statues in your area a good source is this database.

SPIRIT OF THE AMERICAN DOUGHBOY DATABASE 

“Doughboy” is the nickname given the American Expeditionary Forces that flooded Europe when this country entered the war in 1917. There are many theories over the origin of the moniker. One comes from the Mexican-American War of 1916 when the dusty infantry were called "Adobes" by the cavalry, but the somewhat derisive nickname became very popular. If you are interested in reading further about the Doughboys and the AEF, here is a good website, 
HISTORY OF THE AMERICAN DOUGHBOY

New Jersey played a very important role in the war effort. Over 150,000 soldiers from NJ served in WWI and over 3,800 paid the ultimate sacrifice. Camp Merritt in Cresskill, NJ was a staging area for much of the AEF who were then deployed to Hoboken before being shipped overseas. Around 4 million soldiers passed through Camp Merritt during the war. NJ also contributed to the war through weapons materiel and shipbuilding. 

Okay, so perhaps only history buffs would be so inclined to visit these and similar memorials, although given the upcoming anniversary of the “War to End All Wars,” one should pay homage to our heroes. Understandably, endeavoring to trek to the towns that have a “Spirit” statue (and at least one that is similar, but NOT a Viquesney, in Verona) just to see the memorial may not be on the top of your list of things to do, but VFH has decided to sweeten the pot and lure you with things to do in or near these particular towns. Readers of this blog will know that we shall focus on places to eat and have a drink. Hopefully after following our antics, you too will be so inclined to take a road trip and amble through some New Jersey towns to see their Jersey Doughboys. Perhaps you will be inspired to search for "Spirit" memorials in your own neck of the woods. Remember the database is a good resource, and even the Smithsonian has a listing of known Viquesney statues to help you in your search.

Again, there are eight "Spirit of the American Doughboy" statues in New Jersey. They are in Belmar, Dover, Fair Haven, Frenchtown, Matawan, Perth Amboy, Roselle Park and Secaucus. We shall visit each one and report on our visit.

Our first stop will be Secaucus! 

 FOOTAGE OF WWI SOLDIERS EMBARKING FOR WAR FROM NEW JERSEY