ZLATNI RAT

THE GOLDEN HORN AND SPLIT

Again, the captain of the M/S Infinity knew what he was doing and we left Hvar early to make Zlatni Rat before the crowds descended on this remarkable beach. It was our last full day of traveling with Unforgettable Croatia, a small ship luxury cruise line. We had traveled from Dubrovnik and had stops in Mali Ston, Mljet, Korcula, Vis and Hvar and Split was the end of the line. But before we would make the very busy port in Split, we had one last swim stop at Zlatni Rat, or the Golden Horn.

Do an internet search for Zlatni Rat and you will be amazed at this strikingly beautiful (and extremely popular) beach. Located on the island of Brac near the town of Bol, this 2,000-foot spit of white pebble beach extends into the cool clear waters of a current that runs through here called the Hvar channel.  This current and the different winds that grace this land, like the Jugo, or south wind, and the westerly Maestral can over time transform the direction of the Golden Horn so it will bend to the west or east.

I have wanted to return to Croatia ever since I saw the breathtaking aerial pictures of this impossibly beautiful beach and when the M/s Infinity anchored offshore and I took the launch over I had carved another notch on my bucket list. Like all beaches in Croatia it is comprised of rocks and pebbles and we wore water shoes to navigate on land and in the shallows, and I have to admit that was somewhat disappointing, but plenty of people lazed about Zlatni Rat like it was a fine talcum powder-like sand and negotiated the land barefooted. The swimming was wonderful, even at the early hour we arrived at the beach. There is a steep descent into the clear water and it got deep very quickly. Off the very tip of the Horn the current is swifter than the sides, and there is a grove of pine trees where early arrivals stake their claim to a shady spot. There are restaurants and playgrounds deep in the middle of the pine grove and there are chairs available for rent on the left side of the spit.

We were told anchoring off shore like we had done with the Infinity was going to be prohibited next year. As we swam on the right side of the horn there were several other boats anchored and evidently this traffic was ripping up the sea bottom. Next year the ships would have to anchor in Bol and then take a tram to Zlatni Rat. I was glad we didn’t have to do this, because we had finite time on the Horn and we had to back onboard the Infinity by 11 a.m. Team VFH took the last possible launch and by that time Zlatni Rat, one of the most popular beaches in Croatia was filling up. Yeah, that Calendar Captain (see other entries of this blog) has got his act going in the right direction!

Došao sam, Vidio sam, Pobijedio

Sadly, after this stop it was off to Split our last stop. Thankfully we had one last night on board the M/S Infinity before having to disembark by 9 a.m. the next day.

 

At the tip of Zlatni Rat

Thanks for reading…. I know this is a bit late… but there’s a lot of Pobijedio to do in Croatia. Come back I’ll catch up!

THE BLUE CAVE

CALENDAR BOYS

YEAH...I KNOW WHAT I'M DOING

Vendors everywhere along the Dalmatian coast hawk trips to the Blue Cave and although the visit inside the actual cave lasts a bit more than 5 minutes it is worth the trek. Visiting the Blue Cave was part of our tour package with Unforgettable Croatia and for us it's yet another freebie!.

Because of the popularity of this venue wait times at the Blue Cave can be long. There is a café for food and drink to bide the time, but our captain of the M/S Infinity, our small luxury cruise ship with Unforgettable Croatia had us there early and there was no wait at all when we arrived just past 8 a.m.

BLUE CAVE ENTRANCE!

The Blue Cave is one of many caves on the small limestone island of Bisevo. An Infinity launch brought us to the dock where we then boarded a small motor boat with a tour guide. When we neared the entrance the tour guide begged us to lower our heads so we can duck beneath the low hanging rocks. The entrance is less than 2 meters high and less than three meters wide. It seemed impossible that we would fit. 

Once through the entrance the guide cuts the engine and walks through the boat to the bow to push us along with an oar as we are bathed in the iridescent blue light of the cave. We are given details and history about how the cave was discovered and how sunlight reflects through the water and off the white sand on the bottom of the cave to give us this beautiful display. We circled the cave quietly, the hushed voices of several tour guides inside the cave at once never impacting the reverence of this experience.  

BLUE CAVE

There is only one entrance and exit to the cave and we had to wait for one boat before we had to lower our heads again to exit into a brilliant sunny day.

LOOKING FOR AUGUST. 

Many of the women on the Infinity have been trading pictures of young handsome Croatian men and were jokingly talking about starting a calendar of their “finds”. Our captain is January…Readers of this blog may recall Oyster Boy. He is February. .

Well… when we emerged from the cave, Ida, our lovely Croatian Cruise Director, also in on the ribald joking, swooned, “Here is my April!” 

All the women in the boat nodded in agreement.

 

OYSTER BOY

Look!   Don’t touch!?

Love to all.

HVAR

SUNNY  

The stop on the island of Hvar was highly anticipated by this humble scribe. For years I had read about how this island was a choice travel destination. A New York Times travel article decades ago spoke of the celebrity-imbued vibrant nightlife. I had read about the wines produced here and the miles of lavender fields too, but it was the revelry of the island that was most alluring…or it used to be. Now, at my advanced age hitting the clubs can involve serious injury, not only to my hips, but my dignity.

 

Paklinksi Islands

But, regardless of my trepidation it was to Hvar we traveled aboard the proud luxurious M/S Infinity with the Unforgettable Croatia cruise line this day. It proved to be an extremely long adventurous day. We weighed anchor at just past 5 a.m. in Vis and were off to Bisevo and the famous Blue Cave. This natural beauty spot is a popular tourist attraction and the wait line can be long, so our captain left extremely early so we were one of the first boats to reach it. We were there just past 8 a.m.

We then swam that day in the waters of the Paklinksi islands, an amoeba shaped archipelago near Hvar city on the western end of the island. Aerial pictures of this group of islands are shockingly beautiful, but from our water’s edge vantage port it was just another ho-hum day in paradise. There was a stronger current than all the other water stops on previous days because of the Hvar channel current that runs through here. Still the water was turquoise and blue and crystalline and the green islands are edged by white stone.

 

HVAR

There was plenty of maritime traffic cruising past us on the way to Hvar and we lingered at this spot until we were allowed into port and then it was only for the Infinity to drop us off. Infinity had to vacate the dock to allow other boats and were told to be off the ship until 9 pm that night. 

Hvar sells itself as the sunniest island in Dalmatia and the sun was fittingly quite strong and brilliant at 3 pm when we were finally disembarked. We were told it was too hot to go on a city tour at that time and our cruise director Ida arranged for us to meet in Saint Stephen’s Square in two hours at 5 pm. Many of the Infinity faithful stayed nearby or opted to sit at one of the many cafes that edge this impressive piazza, but true to form Janet and I headed for the Hula Hula Bar. It didn’t matter that your favorite decrepit explorers were older than the PARENTS of the kids we passed along the way; we were headed to a popular beach bar in Hvar where we could have a drink while hoping to dip our feet in the Adriatic.

ST STEPHEN'S PLAZA HVAR

It was a bit of a walk to reach the Hula Hula Bar, but we had time to dawdle and the place did not disappoint. We passed several rocky beaches and opulent spas and hotels while on our way. Hula Hula Bar was very popular and brimming with a European version of drunken frat boys, and a myriad of nationalities, some preening allowing their thick gold chains to glint in the fierce afternoon sun, others somehow languishing on cliffside rocks before leaping into the Adriatic to cool their toned bodies. There were a bunch of tables on perches all around the main bar that were attended by widely smiling waiters. scurrying about between orders. 

FIND YOUR BEACH - HVAR

This lively bar could have been plucked from anywhere, even dare I say it, the Jersey Shore, and dropped here in Hvar City. Festooned with whimsical blow up toys with drinks prepared by fresh-faced lovely young ladies, Hula Hula Bar was happy and electric and definitely catered to a much younger crowd. Regardless, we were greeted politely and treated nicely and got our drinks pretty quickly… No… they weren’t trying to rush us out. Evenings at Hula Hula probably crackle with a more throbbing energy, but we were happy to have our drink and enjoyed pretending we were young again for a few minutes. After watching those wacky youngsters leap into the ocean from the rocks or from yachts anchored just off shore we decided to hobble back to our tour.

HULA HULA BAR

 

HULA HULA BAR, HVAR

Indeed, the vibrancy of Hvar wasn’t just on the surface but it barreled down the twisting side streets of the city breathing life into everyone. There was an elan to everything and to everyone. Smiles were everywhere, but then I had to remind myself that smiles have greeted us everywhere during this trip to Croatia, and because of this Hvar wasn’t that unique. What made it different was the incessant stampede of “kids” parading up and down the quay heading from one pulsating disco to another.    

After our tour we had a few hours to relax before we met others for dinner. We couldn’t go back to the boat because the Infinity was still not docked for the night and so to escape the heat of the day, Janet and I found Prsuta 3, a wine bar, on a quiet (for now, it was only the late afternoon) street. I understand that later in the evening Prsuta 3 gets very busy and people vie to cram into this small place. But, for now, it was quiet and cool and we had a couple of glasses of Bogdanusa, a smooth dry white wine that only comes from Hvar. The name means "gift from God". The smiling waiter had an elaborate way of aerating the wine and from our perch in the alley we thought we were doubly blessed with this wonderful display.

Afterwards, we had a dinner at the popular restaurant, Black Pepper. You can always tell the quality of a restaurant by the size of its pepper mills.... and this busy place with array of pepper mills and pepper styles was delightful. We were seated at a table on steps that was busy with foot traffic. But, we never felt jostled or rushed. The waiters were warm and attentive, the food presentation and choices of local seafood and an extensive wine list were all impressive and we had a lovely view of the harbor.  ... We also got a 10% discount through Unforgettable Croatia with their "Privilege" card.

Tuna Steak at Black Pepper, Hvar

When our group dissipated, many headed for the Infinity. We were the 5th ship of 7 moored at the port and it took awhile to get home. I decided to venture out again to smoke a cigar and walk along the quay amid the stampede of kids that scurried from one hot spot to another. After I got run over a couple of times I hung out near the ship.

Thankfully the Infinity was not moored across the throbbing quay-side disco. She was in the second row of luxury ships farthest away and the revelry could not reach us. . 

We were told to ensure we were onboard for a 7 a.m. departure. 

Sadly that was easy for us..sigh

...Thanks for reading…and keep smiling...we will.

BTW... The only celebrity I saw while on Hvar was Janet....

VIS

HERE WE GO AGAIN…

Though the tourism industry has swelled and property prices have soared quite a bit since the Meryl Streep movie Mamma Mia was filmed on the Croatian island of Vis a couple of years ago, you will not see pictures of the lovely Ms. Streep anywhere on this outlying island. That is because the citizens of Vis would rather keep their island quiet and not overrun with tourists. Yeah, I guess the influx of tourist Kunas is great, but the citizens don’t want to suffer for the hordes. How do I know this? Why, our cruise director Ida offers us bits of information on all the islands we are visiting that day during our expansive lunch sessions aboard the proud luxurious M/S Infinity. On the day we visited Vis she told us that the good citizens of Vis would rather have a quiet little island.

 

STRINIVA BEACH, VIS

Still, there seemed to be plenty of tourism at the port of Vis with luxury ships like ours and yachts galore moored in port and several more anchored in the harbor. There was a stretch of konobas catering to visitors along the busy quay. Okay, there were no posters or shops offering Mamma Mia tours or Meryl Streep bobbleheads, like the Game of Throne shops in Dubrovnik everywhere we turned. Turns out Vis doesn’t need Hollywood. It is already a busy island with ferries coming in from Split and Ancona, Italy and is known for its raw pristine beauty, and for having some very incredible beaches and coves to explore. In fact, Stiniva Beach at the end of a long narrow cove on the southern side of the island is considered by some as the best beach in Europe!

 

PORT OF VIS

Yet, despite the tumult of the port, steps away down some of the streets I could see the serenity of a toddler riding a tricycle in the, his father hovering nearby, and old men smoking cigarettes ignoring the glitz that loomed in port. As I walked along kids played in the street and people stood in doorways talking about a life unblemished by my appearance. Some kids were entrepreneurial though and had set up a table to sell knickknacks to passing tourists like we used to with lemonade stands. It was cute and Vis was as laid-back as we had seen since we arrived in Croatia.

BEACH PRILOVO, VIS

BEACH PRILOVO

Before we were able to dock the Infinity had to sit off shore for nearly two hours to wait her turn to dock. As Janet decided to give her body a respite from the sun and took a nap in our room, I watched people frolic on a pebble beach near a Franciscan monastery and church on a peninsula that stretched into the port. It was so tantalizingly close and by the time we docked we had just a short time to ourselves and I insisted we hoof it over to Prilovo beach for a swim. The water was clear and cool and saved us from the oppressive heat. The pebbles seemed uninviting, but families were splayed out all over the gently sloping “beach”. There were showers and places to change and there was a konoba serving drinks and there were games like pool and table soccer on the lawn. There is a cement promenade that goes around the peninsula, but we had really no time to dawdle. Again, we had another tour on Vis and we wanted to make it.

ISLAND OF VIS BEACHES

Leponovic cellar 

STAND TALL

I had mentioned earlier, the pristine, untouched beauty of Vis, is not without an interesting history. Because it is the furthest island from the mainland, Vis has always had a strong military strategic value. During World War II Josef Broz Tito, the savior of Yugoslavia, made the island his partisan hideout from the Nazis and after the war much of the island became a closed military installation. Vis was prepared as the frontline to any naval assault and many tunnels were burrowed to ready the island for an attack that fortunately never came. For decades the entire island of Vis was off limits to foreigners and many Yugoslavs and even island residents were not allowed in certain areas. This lasted until 1990 when Croatia gained her independence and much of the military facilities on Vis were then abandoned. Today, some of the facilities are tourist attractions, but some serve a much greater purpose....housing wine.

WINE NOT

Part of our visit to Vis was a wine tasting with Lipanovic Winery. Wine making on Vis is very prevalent. The tour of Lipanovic and the tasting were arranged through Unforgettable Croatia and we walked about 15 minutes away from the port to reach this refurbished military tunnel. Along with an array of snacks like anchovies, peppers, bread soaked with olive oil and topped with capers, and cheeses we were served first their Viski Opal Rose, then the white, Vugava, and then the powerful full-bodied Plavac Mali which means “little blue” but weighs in at 15%.

Later when we dined in the enchanting 16^th Century garden of Vila Kaliopa we drank a number of bottles of the Lipanovic Vugava white with our new friends, Beth and Dave, Mary and Ralph, as we had grilled John Dory flounder and grilled Red Scorpion. Never heard of that ugly ass fish before but I’d eat it again. Before we picked our fish the waiter came around to show us what fish were available.

Fish Boy

To reach Vila Kaliopa keep walking from the quay until you think you’ve gone too far. Their number for reservations is: 385 (0) 91 27 11 755.

Thanks for reading. Tomorrow we’ve got an early start. First, we visit the serenity of the Blue Cave and then hope to survive the shock and awe of Hvar.

KORCULA

MARCO…. POLO….

I had been to Korcula decades before. It was after the Sarajevo Olympics when I visited Trpanj on the Peliesac Peninsula with my friends Hana and Zeljko and we took a side trip to this island. Janet and I are going to stay with these dear friends after our island-hopping adventure is over and I’m hopeful we’ll be able to visit Korcula again. Sadly, a place like Korcula catches your heart and imagination, but our time on this beautiful island was so short. After a quick tour, a spin around the walled city, some free time that was frustratingly fleeting, it was nearly time for a dinner in the hills overlooking the port at a restaurant that specialized in traditional Croatian food. Korcula was charming and fascinating and we barely knew her. I'm hoping we'll be able to get there when we visit Trpanj next week. 

KORCULA 1984

MARCO
You see, logistics of traveling by boat gets in the way of traveling for pleasure. With the distances between islands and the machinations of port entries it takes a lot of time to get anywhere and we are always moving forward. Of course, the captain and the crew of the Infinity are very efficient. When it’s our turn to enter the port, the Infinity goes into a swirling, impossible waltz as this great ship alights into place. No time is wasted.

 

COFFEE IN MLJET

So far, our daily pattern of travels has been a morning departure with a breakfast. Then it’s a long relaxing sun soak on the top deck as we pass inlets and marvel at the rugged coast of the Peljesac peninsula. Then we stop somewhere to swim off the back of the boat. To do this, the captain backs into a cove, a crew member in a launch ties a rope to a rock on shore to prevent the ship from drifting. They then lower the ladders and we all jump into the blue crystalline clear water. Floaties and masks and even a kayak are available for use. Visibility is infinite and one feels especially buoyant in this salty water which makes it easy to stay afloat and to swim around. This morning I slowly circumnavigated the Infinity, admiring her lines, the ship floating proudly in the blue serene waters. The water was so clear I could see her keel!

FIND THE BOAT

POLO

Today we had two stops to swim; the second stop was because of logistics. We had some time to kill before we could make port in Korcula. We had a great vast view of the rugged, mountainous coastline of Peljesac looming over us in the distance while maritime traffic scooted back and forth past the Infinity. We swam for about an hour before we got in formation for the docking at port. We were number four on the moorings. There’s not enough docking area in the ports, so ships moor up against another and to reach shore passengers have to weave through all the other ships. Not all the corridors line up so it is a maze turning this way and that.to finally reach the gangplank and the shore. We were fortunate in Mljet for we were first in line. That meant Janet and I lingered in port over a cup of coffee in our favorite konoba in Pomena, the Adriatic. Sadly, in Korcula we were number four and so our time on this beautiful island was lessened because we had to leave earlier.

 

KORCULA 2019

Throughout this trip one spends a lot of time hoping for more time as each of these beautiful islands offer tantalizing views and unique experiences, but the next destination is already on the horizon for the captain. Our time in beautiful Korcula was fleeting and hopefully we will be able to revisit.

MARCO 

Peliesac looked foreboding beyond the narrow strait from this very popular island stop. There were plenty of boats moored at the pier and we heard a lot of American accents passing us on the streets. This is a long way to come to hear snippets of “home.”

POLO

Korcula is a walled city is on a small peninsula and the enchanting streets are designed in a curved way like fish bones to catch the cooling winds. There is a promenade lined with both pine trees and restaurants and wine bars on the side opposite of the dock and we settled on Bokar just up a small narrow winding set of stairs for some local wine, Posip and Grk. We had asked our tour guide where we should go when she spoke of these delicate whites and she recommended Bokar. They had an extensive list of wines and several beers and the waitress offered suggestions. They are very pleasant and patient with tourists in Korcula

 

BOKAR WINE BAR

POLO

The tour was just 45 minutes and we covered the entire peninsula and all of her history in that time. Marco Polo may or may not have been born on the island, but they are renovating his house. This part of the world was once part of Venice. There were plenty of bars and souvenir shops and restaurants in town and many streets to meander along and admire, but our cruise director, Ida, arranged a dinner for all who wanted at a wonderful family restaurant with authentic Croatian cuisine. We could have opted to linger in Korcula proper but this dinner seemed too good to pass up.

Just a 5 minute taxi ride out of the old city was Agroturizam Grubinjac. This farm-to-table restaurant grows all their own food like capers, olives, tomatoes, eggplants, zucchini as well as lamb and veal….and three types of grappa. We sat at long rustic tables overlooking the harbor beneath a pergola covered with grape vines. It was cool and pleasant and the sun had that end of day glow. They began our visit to Agroturizam Grubinjac with three types of grappa; one had herbs, the other figs, and our favorite, carob. Our large party drained all three bottles. Our cruise director Eda (actually it’s Ida but pronounced Eda) showed us the BBQ pit where our meat was cooking for hours. Similar to a Dutch oven the lamb and veal are covered by a large bell-shaped pan which is then covered by coals. Simmering for hours, this main course was a typical Croatian meal, but first, several plates of anchovies, zucchini cakes, olives, smoked ham, cheese, bread and olive oil, several carafes of red and white wines greeted us.

 

GRAPPA FOR ALL

As we dined and laughed a full moon graced us and the night just seemed perfect. We were in Korcula for a relatively short time but we were managed to do a lot.

Agroturizam Grubinjac’s phone number is 385 98 203 016

POLO.

...POLO.

POLO

TODAY MLJET

SALT LAKES AND NATIONAL PARK

The next stop on this relaxing island-hopping adventure through the Dalmatian Islands with the small ship luxury cruise line, Unforgettable Croatia, was Mljet, a roughly 23-mile long island off the Peljesac Peninsula. After a swim in the blue waters of the Adriatic, we docked at Pomena, the port of call for all pleasure ships. We had our dinner on the Infinity while in port. Later we went ashore for a drink. 

There were several similar boats like our Infinity moored at the swim site and we all made for Mljet at roughly the same time. For a while there were three ships side-by-side and it looked like a race for the port. I’m not sure if it was a race, but the first one at the dock is the last to leave the next day. Not sure if chatter between the boats was about who’ll be first in the port or not, but three of the four boats were all run by our cruise line and the last was from another. It looked like our captain was edging this competitive cruise line out of the way when he took a course that came very close to an islet that forced this ship that was neck and neck with us to slow. For awhile our bow was aimed directly at the islet and a number of the top deck passengers started jokingly muttering “iceberg!”

 

Channel between two lakes in Mljet

Pomena is yards away from the Mljet National Park, but to get there by bike we had to climb a hill on a well-traveled road for about 1.4 kilometers and then descend into the park via a steep gravelly road. We rented bikes in port, but could have rented them at the entrance of the park and avoided these treacherous hills. Kayaks and canoes are available for hire as well. It’s a five-mile course around the two salt lakes, Veliko Jezera and Malo Jezera. Our entrance to the park got us a boat ride to the Monastery of St. Mary located on an islet in Veliko Jezera, the larger of the two lakes, but we opted to just ride the bikes around. You can swim anywhere you find a spot that’s suitable in either of the lakes, but a lot of people seemed to congregate in a channel between the two lakes. Some rode the surprisingly swift current for the 100 feet stretch that emptied into Malo Jezera and did it several times. We opted to try out our newly purchased water shoes, a must for the rocky beaches of Croatia, at a small “beach” for a short time, but never really swam. 

"swimmig" in Mljet National Park

The National Park was very beautiful and peaceful and is located on the northern half of the island.

  

There is evidently good diving off Mljet and in caves in the lake area. There was a dive shop in Pomena. We poked our head in, but never inquired about a trip. We really never have time on such trips unless we arranged everything before arriving.

MLJET DIVING

Monastery of St. Mary, Mljet NP

After dinner on board the Infinity a number of passengers stopped in one of the many Konobas that lined the port for some grappa, wine and beer. It began to rain and we were thankful that our ship was the first in port. The next day the Infinity set her sights on Korcula, the supposed birthplace of Marco Polo.

Thanks for reading.

OYSTERS AND SALT

MALI STON AND STON   

Our first full day on our cruise through the Dalmatian Islands started with a final swing past Dubrovnik to admire this beautiful city from the sea before sailing through the Elaphiti Island archipelago. Dubrovnik looked strong in the brilliant morning light. The white umbrellas of the Buza Bar were the only bit of whimsey that stood apart from this vast wall. We lingered briefly in the waters between the main port of Dubrovnik and Lokrum Island before turning for a swim somewhere in the Elaphiti Islands.

BUZA BAR DUBROVNIK

SWIMMING

Each day we are to stop somewhere to swim in the warm blue waters of the Adriatic. When the captain reaches his desired area, which is shared by all the other small ships, he does a 180-degree turn to have the stern and diving platform face the shore some 50 feet away. Then a launch pulls a rope to shore to keep the Infinity from drifting and the anchor is dropped. The visibility of the water is incredibly clear and I feel especially buoyant in the water salty water. The first couple of days we have been blessed with an azure sky and the colors of the water are a myriad of blues and turquoise. They have floats and masks and a kayak. The water is calm and warm and one day I swam about the Infinity leisurely admiring her lines. The blue blue blue water will be tough to leave once we’re home. There’s nothing like this at home.

JANET DREAMING OF BUZA BAR

The first day of swimming we moored near a terraced cliff in the Elaphiti Islands where olive trees caught the salt air and sun. Tranquil, lovely, it was everything one could dream for on a trip. The tumult of the Dubrovnik hordes was so very far away.

OYSTERS

We had lunch on board while the Infinity made its way to Slano, a small fishing village. Unforgettable Croatia arranged a bus for us to Mali Ston. There we boarded a launch to a small island to sample the local oyster. Mali Ston is at the very base of the Plejesac Peninsula and the salty sea water mixes with the mineral heavy water from the Neretva River to bring in a unique blend of nutrients. All of which makes the Mali Ston oyster, a European flat oyster, award winning.

There were several roughly hewn picnic tables with a couple bottles of Grappa and a carafe of white wine. The pleasant and thankful hosts served us oysters, three each, and then a massive cauldron of mussels and loaves of bread to sop up the garlicy sauce. Our group was chatty with the Grappa but grew silent as we dug into all the food.

OYSTER BOY

As we waited for the launch, we were given a short lecture about how the Mali Ston oysters are farmed. They catch the oyster seeds in nets and the seedlings attached themselves to this new home. The oysters are allowed to grow a bit more before they are glued together two by two on another net where they age to maturity. This takes 3 years. All along the bay the placement of these nets, where oysters grow, are marked by barrels floating on the surface.

It was an interesting and informative speech. To demonstrate the timeline of the aging, the young man pulled up a seedling net and then one nearing maturity. We all applauded him afterwards and he smiled widely, a genuinely warm smile. There was no jaded approach to tourism that other places that cater to visitors have reached. He was proud of his job and happy we were here. This has been the greatest joy on this trip so far, to see this true sort of happiness. Oh well, the Grappa was pretty good too!

STON SALT FARM

STON

Salt is harvested from the sea in Ston to this day. It was once so lucrative it was called “white gold”. It made Dubrovnik rich and to protect their investments in the evaporating salt ponds in Ston a great long wall was constructed above the town. The wall stretches from Mali Ston to Ston, a few kilometers down the road. It stretches across this entire section of the hilly Peljesac Peninsula and some guidebooks say it’s the second longest wall ever built by man; the first being the great wall of China. With our technology now there are more efficient ways to harvest salt, but the salt farm of Ston still works its magic every summer. We bought a bag of salt as a souvenir for 10 Kuna.

WALL OF STONG

It is still possible to climb much of the very steep wall, so after a quick lecture about the way salt is still harvested from sea water those hardy enough to tackle the stairs, followed the guide up the narrow stretch to a guard tower. Below us the salt ponds stretched out towards the sea and above us the menacing wall stretched over the crest of the hill. Spectacular views in either direction.

Thanks to Unforgettable Croatia in making such day trips possible.

Thanks to you for reading.

Love conquers all, conquering a wall though requires strong lungs.

Janet and greg