VACATIONS FROM HOME: HVAR

SUNNY

The stop on the island of Hvar was highly anticipated by this humble scribe. For years I had read about how this island was a choice travel destination. A New York Times travel article decades ago spoke of the celebrity-imbued vibrant nightlife. I had read about the wines produced here and the miles of lavender fields too, but it was the revelry of the island that was most alluring…or it used to be. Now, at my advanced age hitting the clubs can involve serious injury, not only to my hips, but my dignity.

Paklinksi Islands

But, regardless of my trepidation it was to Hvar we traveled aboard the proud luxurious M/S Infinity with the Unforgettable Croatia cruise line this day. It proved to be an extremely long adventurous day. We weighed anchor at just past 5 a.m. in Vis and were off to Bisevo and the famous Blue Cave. This natural beauty spot is a popular tourist attraction and the wait line can be long, so our captain left extremely early so we were one of the first boats to reach it. We were there just past 8 a.m.

We then swam that day in the waters of the Paklinksi islands, an amoeba shaped archipelago near Hvar city on the western end of the island. Aerial pictures of this group of islands are shockingly beautiful, but from our water’s edge vantage port it was just another ho-hum day in paradise. There was a stronger current than all the other water stops on previous days because of the Hvar channel current that runs through here. Still the water was turquoise and blue and crystalline and the green islands are edged by white stone.

HVAR

There was plenty of maritime traffic cruising past us on the way to Hvar and we lingered at this spot until we were allowed into port and then it was only for the Infinity to drop us off. Infinity had to vacate the dock to allow other boats and were told to be off the ship until 9 pm that night.

Hvar sells itself as the sunniest island in Dalmatia and the sun was fittingly quite strong and brilliant at 3 pm when we were finally disembarked. We were told it was too hot to go on a city tour at that time and our cruise director Ida arranged for us to meet in Saint Stephen’s Square in two hours at 5 pm. Many of the Infinity faithful stayed nearby or opted to sit at one of the many cafes that edge this impressive piazza, but true to form Janet and I headed for the Hula Hula Bar. It didn’t matter that your favorite decrepit explorers were older than the PARENTS of the kids we passed along the way; we were headed to a popular beach bar in Hvar where we could have a drink while hoping to dip our feet in the Adriatic.

ST STEPHEN'S PLAZA HVAR

It was a bit of a walk to reach the Hula Hula Bar, but we had time to dawdle and the place did not disappoint. We passed several rocky beaches and opulent spas and hotels while on our way. Hula Hula Bar was very popular and brimming with a European version of drunken frat boys, and a myriad of nationalities, some preening allowing their thick gold chains to glint in the fierce afternoon sun, others somehow languishing on cliffside rocks before leaping into the Adriatic to cool their toned bodies. There were a bunch of tables on perches all around the main bar that were attended by widely smiling waiters. scurrying about between orders.

FIND YOUR BEACH - HVAR

This lively bar could have been plucked from anywhere, even dare I say it, the Jersey Shore, and dropped here in Hvar City. Festooned with whimsical blow up toys with drinks prepared by fresh-faced lovely young ladies, Hula Hula Bar was happy and electric and definitely catered to a much younger crowd. Regardless, we were greeted politely and treated nicely and got our drinks pretty quickly… No… they weren’t trying to rush us out. Evenings at Hula Hula probably crackle with a more throbbing energy, but we were happy to have our drink and enjoyed pretending we were young again for a few minutes. After watching those wacky youngsters leap into the ocean from the rocks or from yachts anchored just off shore we decided to hobble back to our tour.

HULA HULA BAR

HULA HULA BAR, HVAR

Indeed, the vibrancy of Hvar wasn’t just on the surface but it barreled down the twisting side streets of the city breathing life into everyone. There was an elan to everything and to everyone. Smiles were everywhere, but then I had to remind myself that smiles have greeted us everywhere during this trip to Croatia, and because of this Hvar wasn’t that unique. What made it different was the incessant stampede of “kids” parading up and down the quay heading from one pulsating disco to another.

After our tour we had a few hours to relax before we met others for dinner. We couldn’t go back to the boat because the Infinity was still not docked for the night and so to escape the heat of the day, Janet and I found Prsuta 3, a wine bar, on a quiet (for now, it was only the late afternoon) street. I understand that later in the evening Prsuta 3 gets very busy and people vie to cram into this small place. But, for now, it was quiet and cool and we had a couple of glasses of Bogdanusa, a smooth dry white wine that only comes from Hvar. The name means "gift from God". The smiling waiter had an elaborate way of aerating the wine and from our perch in the alley we thought we were doubly blessed with this wonderful display.

Afterwards, we had a dinner at the popular restaurant, Black Pepper. You can always tell the quality of a restaurant by the size of its pepper mills.... and this busy place with array of pepper mills and pepper styles was delightful. We were seated at a table on steps that was busy with foot traffic. But, we never felt jostled or rushed. The waiters were warm and attentive, the food presentation and choices of local seafood and an extensive wine list were all impressive and we had a lovely view of the harbor. ... We also got a 10% discount through Unforgettable Croatia with their "Privilege" card.

Tuna Steak at Black Pepper, Hvar

When our group dissipated, many headed for the Infinity. We were the 5th ship of 7 moored at the port and it took awhile to get home. I decided to venture out again to smoke a cigar and walk along the quay amid the stampede of kids that scurried from one hot spot to another. After I got run over a couple of times I hung out near the ship.

Thankfully the Infinity was not moored across the throbbing quay-side disco. She was in the second row of luxury ships farthest away and the revelry could not reach us. .