THE STOLEN KINGDOM

Hawaii is paradise, no doubt. It is a top rated destination for many and for many traveling to this archipelago would be considered a trip of a lifetime. I am fortunate. Between work and play I have been to Hawaii six times. This is Janet’s first trip and although I have frequented Hawaii so often over the years I share her excitement. I actually pushed for this trip; it has been over a decade since my last visit.

Well, I can write here about the pervasive, infectious Aloha Spirit which usually transitions into at times frustrating Aloha time. I can talk about the swaying palms and incessant waves and surfing, Honolulu dive bars, Diamond Head vistas, Pearl Harbor, Waikiki, Kona coffee,  Hanaumu Bay, Waimea Bay, the road to Hana, Haleakala National Park, the Parker Ranch, Moana Loa, volcanos, white sand, black sand, green sand, macadamia nuts and sea turtles, but I won’t.

All are brilliant destinations on the tourist trail, but my two fondest memories of Hawaii from my past visits are slices of everyday life. Once I rented a house in Lanikai on the windward side of Oahu and went to a Chinese restaurant and tried to pay the tab with a travelers check. I offered my ID and was told that wasn’t necessary. They surmised that I must have just returned from a vacation on the mainland. The other came from kicking around a Honolulu neighborhood around Christmas time; I was in Honolulu to run the marathon there; and seeing kids lining up in a playground to sit on Santa’s knee. Santa wore flip flops and the beard was bit too warm so it had migrated to his neck.

Lives being lived, families being tended to, those are my fondest memories of this far flung American outpost. Since my first visit, courtesy of Sinatra in 1986, until this seventh excursion I have felt like I belonged here and each time I leave I yearn to return. Dare I call myself a “kama’aina” a child of the island?  That I guess is too high an opinion of myself and perhaps it may be over reaching. Island fever would probably grip me too; living here on these islands with no escape, despite the paradise, may eventually lose its allure.

north shore Oahu

Sadly, for many residents of Hawaii lives hover near the poverty level. Get away from the glitz and polish of Waikiki and you have simple folk living normal lives filled with the same expectations and disappointments found elsewhere. It may be “paradise”, but you still have to slog through the day. Hawaii too was “stolen” from the people by American entrepreneurs in a coup in the 1890’s. When the 100^th anniversary of the “annexation” Hawaii came up Senator Daniel Inouye suggested the state flag at the U.S. Capital be lowered to half-staff.

Yes, a quick read of Hawaiian history makes one wonder how anyone could smile at all. Native Hawaiians have endured war, invasion and conquering corporations and to this day the resentment remains. It is a thread that is just beneath the surface. I personally have experienced prejudice here. I’ve heard the derogatory term “haole” launched in my direction. I honestly have never had the desire to visit the Wainae coast of Oahu because of the native Hawaiian population. Car break-ins are common in some spots there. I’ve had my rental car keyed at the Waimea Bay parking lot. But, you know, there are bad people everywhere and in Hawaii it is the same.

So, why have I returned so often you may ask? I’ve painted a somewhat grimmer than expected picture of Hawaii I know. How could this remote volcanic ecosystem be so alluring? Those two fond memories are just the start. The beauty, the diversity of people and views and experiences keeps me wanting to return. You can never beat a sunset in Haleiwa Town; you just have to be aware that although this is “paradise” not everyone is swaying their hips at the waves and drinking Mai Tai’s all day.

the Chinaman's Hat

We are staying in Waialua on the North Shore, at Kristin and Billy’s house. We rented a room with them for three days through a website called Airbnb.com, one of several similar bed and breakfast access websites. In all the visits to Oahu I have never stayed this far west. Rather than driving the quick way across the island, up H2 directly to Waialua, we drove the long way up the windward side of Oahu. 

We stopped at the Chinaman's Hat, Laie Point and the Banzai Pipeline, although in July there aren't any monstrous waves; they come in the winter. We had dinner at one of the many shrimp vendors near the northern apex of Oahu, Kahuku Point, where there are a lot of shrimp farms. 

When we drove out of Haleiwa we passed a lush baseball field. Mountains were in the distance. The ocean was behind us. The colors were shockingly vibrant. There was a game going on, not an organized, little league game, just a pick-up game. Younger kids too, not teenagers, just some kids playing around and I remarked to Janet that this is the Hawaii I love.

THE SITUATION

This year is the 100^th anniversary of the beginning of World War I. The global conflict raged until 1918, with the United States entering the conflagration in 1917. The world had never experienced war at this scale before and it left behind a “lost generation” of dissolute men. Back in the United States towns were urged to erect some sort of memorial to these brave soldiers, perhaps not only to honor them, but to soften the blows they had suffered.

A very popular statue from this time was the Spirit of the American Doughboy sculpted by E.M. Viquesney. It was a copper plated image of a Doughboy striding forth with a grenade in his right hand and a bayonetted rifle in his left. Because it was copper plated and not solid, it was cheaper to produce, and purchase, and Viquesney’s company claimed to have at least one statue in every state. Today it is estimated there are approximately 150 Spirit statues remaining and New Jersey has eight of them.

Vacations From Home has been traveling around New Jersey seeking out these statues and this is the fourth in the series. The first three were spread out over a large area, which in the small state of New Jersey this says a lot about the distances involved. Team VFH first ventured to Secaucus in Hudson County on the grounds of the municipal complex. Secaucus is just a couple of miles away from the Lincoln Tunnel and New York City. Then we visited Frenchtown on the far western side of the state, near the Delaware River to see the statue that stood in front of the local grade school. The third statue was in the iron hills of Dover, Morris County, nestled in the pastoral Hurd Park sitting atop an impressive cairn.

Of the remaining five memorials, four are relatively close to each other along or near the Jersey shore. It is quite possible to tool around and see them all in one day. Hopefully after you get some leads though from this humble blog you’ll want to take your time and linger in the towns.

Here is the first of our Jersey shore towns....

BELMAR

Belmar 

The memorial here in this shore town, the town of my youth, witness to many a debauched weekend, is away from the ocean and near an overpass of Route 35. Despite the location the park is well tended and neat and the statue is in great condition. Names of WWI battles are etched into the pedestal The Spirit statue was first dedicated in 1930 in front of what was first the American Legion Hall, which then evolved into the municipal building and community hall

Dedication ceremony 1930

before the statue was refurbished and when rededicated and moved in 2006 a block or so away to its present site along West Railroad Avenue between 7^th and 8^th Avenues. The names of 102 soldiers are listed on the plaque. 

THINKING of VISITING?

Belmar isn’t quite the Jersey shore made famous by that MTV reality show, but it is kinda close. I spent many a day sneaking onto the beach, and dodging the beach patrols and drinking in the area bars and sleeping in cars to avoid paying for a room. Sigh….what fun and fond memories. Well, that facet of the town remains and let me tell you it’s not just the Jersey Shore. I once was in Surfer’s Paradise, Queensland, Australia and during my morning run I saw many kids sleeping in cars, so, I guess it’s acceptable? Consequently don’t come to this blog for places to stay, because I’ll say the backseat.

But, the beach is great here, if expensive; New Jersey towns all charge entrance fees. Even with the crowds that pour into the town during the summer months there is a family aspect as well. There are several playgrounds on the beach for kids and activities like volleyball nets set up for public use as well as events like sand sculpting competitions. Also for the kids there is a Surfing camp at 3^rd Avenue. Cowabunga indeed. Yes, the surf is strong here. The Beach Boys mentioned Belmar in their song Surfing USA and there is a part still sectioned off for surfers which I believe is near 19^th Avenue. In September there is a professional surfing competition. Check the website for details. BELMAR SURFING COMPETITION

The boardwalk is a great place to run even if you have to slalom around the strollers, and there are a number of well attended races in town each summer. Go to the town’s website for races and other events.

BELMAR

FOOD and DRINK

This area of the Jersey Shore is affectionately known as the Irish Riviera. Filled with Benny’s (not Shoobees) and there are so many places to carouse and eat no list will be complete. Also, nearby towns like Avon-by-the-Sea and Spring Lake, are also worth visiting. Here is an incomplete list of places to visit off the beach:

Klein’s Fish Market and Waterside Cafe

On River Road, just off the Shark River inlet, the place is loud and crowded and fun. The food is a bit pricey, but you can’t beat the water view.

 KLEIN'S FISH MARKET AND WATERSIDE CAFE

D’Jais

When I was a younger man D’Jais on Ocean Avenue was always the place to go in Belmar for grabbing a beer. It still is.

D'JAIS

Columns

Outside of Belmar, and really a very short drive, are a number of notable places to go for a beer or food. Just north of Belmar is the laid back town of Avon-by-the-Sea. Compared to Belmar, Avon is very quiet. The Columns is on Ocean Avenue, just across from the boardwalk. Get a seat on the lanai and sip your drink and enjoy the view of the ocean.

"The Columns at Avon" by Paula Kolojeski 

THE COLUMNS IN AVON

Norwood Inn

A great dive bar in Avon is the Norwood Inn at 618 Second Avenue. It is stately but worn.  Not much of abeer selection, but it’s a friendly place and the food will carry you along. Thankfully they filled in the pool that was in the backyard, I guess there were too many unexpected dunks. There is live music and if you stay late enough maybe you’ll get a room, or at least stay for brunch.

THE NORWOOD INN AVON

Kelly’s

A (very) short jump away from Belmar is Kelly’s in Neptune City.  I love this place, and have

KELLY'S

been known to drive out of my way to go here for beers and food. Again, the Irish are well represented here, with a map of Ireland on the ceiling above the bar, which is just a couple of feet from the sushi station. Go for the Ham Galway sandwich and the $15 buckets of beer special during the World Cup matches.

KELLY'S TAVERN, NEPTUNE

BTW… Jack Nicholson was born in Neptune as well as Southside Johnny Lyon from Southside Johnny and the Asbury Jukes!

Arcades

The SilverBall Museum

No visit to the Jersey Shore would be complete without a trip to the Arcade. Pinball was always a favorite pastime for me! If you’re interested in a side trip, just north is Asbury Park and the SilverBall Museum just a couple of hundred feet from the famous music venue, The Stone Pony. Purchase an unlimited play pass for $10 from 5 pm until closing.   

THE SILVERBALL MUSEUM, ASBURY PARK

I could go on and on here, but your favorite mooch crew is off next to Fair Haven, NJ. I am sure I've missed something. If you feel compelled to add to this list, leave a comment or write us at: greg.dunaj@yahoo.com. If you decide to visit the Jersey Shore you may never want to go home again.

cheers

Janet and greg

Southside Johnny and the asbury jukes w/springsteen 1978

WE'RE GETTING LEI'D

Team VFH may be cheap, but we know how to travel well. Often we are forced to take great delight in destinations closer to home as our cheapness rules the day. For this we are extremely grateful. As world travelers our love for far flung destinations had caused us to be dismissive of sites that were close to home for their familiarity offered no alluring reason to visit and explore. Secaucus or Philadelphia will never be as alluring as Paris or Sydney we thought. How easily we were able to overlook the joy and beauty that is in our backyard and this endeavor, now in its fifth year, has given us many more happy experiences than expected. Too often our travels insulated us from family and friends as we would just “flit” off to somewhere else, but friendships and familial binds combined with finely honed mooching skills has given us a great new appreciation of what we would have considered the “mundane”. We have rediscovered the radiant beauty of the girl next door.

 

Aloha

Okay, are you buying this? I’ve just compared Secaucus to Sydney, Philadelphia to Paris. Yeah, sure there are things to do or see, like the Dragon Boat races along the Schuylkill River or renting kayaks to explore the Hackensack as it meanders through Secaucus. And, truly what did Socrates say? “See one promontory, and you’ve seen them all.” An old timer engineer at ABC said of the people of Sarajevo when I was there for the Olympics, “they’re just the same as us, they just talk funny.”

True everywhere lives are lived and though the vistas may be more alluring elsewhere, they all offer something. The best part of all these “cheap” years is we’ve learned to slow down and see the beauty around us. Rather than having to go over the next mountain like that bear in the incessant children’s song seemingly never satisfied, we’ve stopped to explore our neighborhood. But in between all these lovely little trips to discover nuances of where we live or rediscover the joys of our neighborhoods Team VFH likes to plan these side trips and we throw open our pocketbooks and fleece our coffers. This year, we are going to Hawaii.

We will visit three islands. We fly into Honolulu mid-July and we will stay on the North Shore near Haleiwa, Oahu for three days, before a week at a resort in Lahaina, Maui and then on to Hilo on the Big Island for another week. This is Janet’s first trip to this beautiful place and my seventh; the last time for me was in 2001 to run the Honolulu Marathon. Everyone should visit this place and I wanted Janet to see its beauty for herself and I, selfish, wanted to return. There are few places in this world that I feel like I belong, that I pine to return. The serenity that is Hawaii, her Aloha spirit calls me. 

But, you may ask what's all this talk about being cheap? Fear not, we will not go nuts in spending money. Hawaii can be cheaper than you would expect, that is once you get there. Come back, we'll tell you. 

Visiting Dover

This is the third in the series of New Jersey towns that feature a once popular statue honoring veterans from World War I. This year marks the 100th anniversary of the beginning of the conflict and the mass produced "Spirit of the American Doughboy" is a pressed copper statue designed by E.M. Viquesney. Brochures from Viquesney's company boasted 300 of the Spirit statues were erected during the 1920's and 1930's and that there was at least one in every state although these numbers are now considered inflated. The Smithsonian has a list of approximately 150 statues still standing and the Garden State has eight of them.

Today's visit is to Dover in Morris County. So far this is the most picturesque memorial I have seen in the series. Set in pastoral Hurd Park on the western edge of Dover, the Spirit of the American Doughboy statue is set up high atop a cairn of roughly hewn stones accenting its dramatic pose. The memorial is well tended and not an afterthought or relic. The statue is brilliantly polished and a fence surrounds the cairn and a stone wall provides a seating area. Lights cut deep crevices on the Doughboy at night giving him an ethereal, battle-ready appearance. During the day idyllic hills and cherry blossoms of Hurd Park lend serenity and soberness to this memorial to our fallen soldiers.

Sadly, despite its beauty the statue and memorial were victims of many acts of vandalism over the years. At one point the statue was ripped from its pedestal and thrown into a nearby creek. Extensive renovations involving the entire community eventually replaced the statue to its current glory. On the stones forming the pedestal are 38 bronze plaques, each bearing the name of a soldier from the community who gave his life in the war.

Hurd Park, Dover, NJ

THINKING of VISITING?

LOCATION

Several highways serve Dover. Routes 80 and 10 and 46 travel east/west through the city and Route 15’s southern terminus is in Dover at Route 46. In fact, Hurd Park is right on Route 46 and the statue can be seen from the roadway, but you’ll want to get out and walk up to the memorial and perhaps stroll the idyllic grounds.  You can’t park in front of the memorial. Look for spots on Park Heights Avenue, West Blackwell Street, or perhaps Princeton Avenue; just be careful with the latter though because you’ll have to cross Route 46 to get to the memorial.

HISTORY and ATTRACTIONS

Once a port on the Morris Canal, an engineering marvel that used water driven inclined planes to carry coal over the northern New Jersey hills, Dover is around 25 miles west of Newark. The canal was abandoned in the 1920’s and subsequently filled in, including the boat basin in the town which is now called JFK Commons Park. There are preserved sections though and it is possible to hike along the canal in nearby Wharton at Hugh Force Park to glimpse and stroll along a bit of American commerce history.

HUGH FORCE PARK

For further reading on the technology of the Morris Canal: 

THE MORRIS CANAL

On Saturday, August 23^rd the Wharton Canal Day will be held at the park. The well attended event offers music, arts and crafts, food, fireworks, a Civil War encampment and blacksmithing demonstrations and free boat and kayak rides on the canal. Wharton’s Hugh Force Park is a little more than 2 miles north of Hurd Park in Dover. 

CANAL DAY AT HUGH FORCE PARK, AUGUST 23rd

Iron ore was once so plentiful in the area that it could be collected off the ground. In sporadic operation for nearly 300 years dating from the early 1700’s the mines and forges in the Dover vicinity once supplied much of the iron used as shot and ordnance in the American Revolutionary War. The Hibernia mine was the name given to a series of independently run mines all along the same ore vein and tons of ore were taken from the earth through mines like: Andover, Beach Glen, DeCamp and Wharton. If you’re interested in reading more:

VISITING NEW JERSEY SKYLANDS

MINING INFORMATION

It is possible to visit some of these mines, but if you’re neither a spelunker nor a caver your best bet is to visit the Sterling Hill Museum in nearby Ogdensburg, NJ about 16 miles north along Route 15. They offer tours. The Sterling Hill Museum was a must visit during my grammar school days.

STERLING HILL MINING MUSEUM

There is a military presence in the area as Picatinny Arsenal is a few miles outside of Dover north on Route 15. This research facility “specializes in the research, development, acquisition and lifecycle management of advanced conventional weapon systems and advanced ammunition.” Begun as a powder depot in the 1880’s, Picatinny Arsenal has been important to the military effort throughout its history evolving as needed and was integral in the testing of rocket engine technology. Sadly as civilians visits to Picatinny are prohibited, although I once camped there as a Boy Scout. In 1926 there was a devastating explosion that leveled the joint.  PICATINNY ARSENAL

In  February, 1977 I was fortunate to see the Ramones at a joint in Dover called The Showplace. The Ramones only had two albums in their arsenal at the time and we got to hear Sheena is a Punk Rocker, perhaps for the first time as that would not be released until Rockets to Russia in November of 1977. Well, the Showplace is no longer a concert venue, but there is a strip joint as well as a recording studio at the South Salem Street address. The strip joint isn't well received by some; a recent review on google+ said: "Smells like a rotten corpse soaking in tuna blood."

Joey Ramone would be pleased.

FOOD AND DRINK

In the 2000 census over half the population of Dover was listed as Hispanic, with Mexican, Colombian, Dominican and Puerto Rican as the prevalent nationalities in the town. Thankfully all of their tasty cuisines are equally prevalent in town, mostly along the main business district area of Blackwell Street.

Near Blackwell is a good honest Irish bar with normal fare and beer selections. The Quiet Man is at 64 East McFarlan Street.

THE QUIET MAN, DOVER, NJ

If you don’t mind driving out of Dover, there are several good places to eat and drink in the nearby towns of Wharton and Randolph.

On North Main Street in Wharton is Hot Rods Real Pit BBQ. According to the Star-Ledger and Forbes Hot Rods has some of the best ribs in NJ and the place also has a respectable list of craft beers.  
HOT RODS BBQ, WHARTON, NJ

The Knotty Pine Pub is a great dive bar in Wharton and serves honest food at great prices. They are up on Route 15 near the Costo’s.

THE KNOTTY PINE PUB, WHARTON, NJ

In Randolph along Route 10, but less than 10 miles away from Hurd Park are two destination-worthy places, at least for beer. Both offer food at “normal” prices. Go for the beer and perhaps the small plate selections.

The Morris Tap and Grill offers a dazzling array of beers, foreign and domestic and Nicole’s Ten boasts 100+ craft beer, mostly in bottles.
THE MORRIS TAP AND GRILL

NICOLE'S TEN

Thanks for reading. I hope you find this interesting and informative. Feel free to leave a comment here or send me an email perhaps detailing your travels and if you send pictures of your visit to any of our suggested destinations we'll try to include them in our future entries at VACATIONS FROM HOME. And, always remember to like us on Facebook!

love
greg and Janet

THE EAGLE HAS LANDED

While I was growing up the Bald Eagle, symbol of America, was on the endangered list for extinction. This majestic raptor was once very common throughout the United States, but their numbers steadily dwindled from loss of habitat and competition for food from human westward expansion. By the late 1800’s their numbers were already in sharp decline, but then were further decimated with the use of DDT and other pesticides. This weakened their eggshells which were often crushed during incubation. On the Fourth of July, 1976, our country’s bicentennial anniversary, the Bald Eagle was officially placed on the endangered list by the US Fish and Wildlife Service. 

For a kid growing up in New Jersey the Bald Eagle was truly just a symbol and not a “sighting”. Unless I visited a zoo, or traveled out west somewhere or got up to Alaska, where most of the Bald Eagle population now resides, I had no hope of seeing one.

That has changed. The Bald Eagle’s numbers have risen since the banning of DDT in 1972 and Federal and State conservation laws protecting the animal and its habitat. Once down to under 500 nesting pairs in the continental U.S. the numbers have risen to over 10,000 nesting pairs. In 1995 the US Fish and Wildlife Service upgraded the Bald Eagle’s status to “threatened” and in 2007 removed from the endangered species list. Seeing a Bald Eagle in the area is now plausible. Although not as plentiful as they were before the European invasion of North America, when they may have numbered up to half a million, the Bald Eagle population is coming back. Readers of this blog may remember a trip Team VFH made this past January to the Conowingo Dam in northern Maryland.  Large numbers of Bald Eagles winter there feeding on fish that get sucked through the turbines on this Susquehanna River edifice. But now it is possible to see Bald Eagles and not have to leave New Jersey!

At the northern end of my hometown of Lambertville, NJ there is currently a nesting pair of Bald Eagles. There is at least one eaglet. They have made their aerie on a power line tower near the Route 202 bridge. Walk along the towpath and right where the canal passes over the Alexauken Creek you can see the nest in the tower to the west. Bring a chair and enjoy this wonderful display and sigh with pleasure knowing that few animals ever make it back from the very brink of extinction.

(c) 2014 Deborah Faust

In deference to this nesting pair the 14^th annual Civil War re-enactment weekend at the Holcombe-Jimison Farmstead Museum, just north of the power line aerie, will NOT be firing off their cannons. The eaglets will not be disturbed. Please note because of this event there is no free parking usually found in the area beside the 202 bridge. You can still park for free in town and enter the towpath at Elm Street and head north.

HOLCOMBE-JIMISON FARM

If you’re interested in getting something to eat and still want to see the eagles, visit Ed and

Debbie at the Homestead Farm Market. The market is on Main Street in Lambertville. At the Homestead you can buy lunch, fresh produce, drinks, some of the best apple pie on this earth and flowers and then ask if you can look through their telescope aimed right at the nest. It’s free and although supposedly only out Tuesday through Saturday, if you ask Ed in a nice way he’ll set it up for you.

HOMESTEAD FARM MARKET, LAMBERTVILLE, NJ 

If you can’t make it to Lambertville or you need a daily fix of Bald Eagle antics there are several webcams on the internet, most notably, for me, is the Duke Farms Eagle cam. In operation since 2008, 8 million viewers have watched the male and female return every year to the same nest.

 BALD EAGLE CAM AT DUKE FARMS 

LET THEM EAT CAKE

FRENCHTOWN

This is the second of our 8 part series visiting New Jersey sites of a particular statue honoring soldiers from World War 1. This year marks the 100 year anniversary of the start of this war. The extremely detailed “Spirit of the American Doughboy” Viquesney statue features a soldier striding forward into “No Man’s Land” holding a grenade above his head in his right hand and carbine in his left. The soldier carries a backpack and a gas mask pouch is across his chest. He steps between two tree trunks and the original statue had barbed wire laced between them. Around 300 of these statues were erected throughout the country to honor our war heroes and approximately 140 are known to still survive. New Jersey has eight.

The surviving statues are in various conditions. The last statue we visited in Secaucus was sort of leaning. The Frenchtown statue is in better shape, having been refurbished and cleaned a number of years ago and with a replacement bayonet added in the mid-90’s. This particular memorial and its “Spirit” statue honors 43 men from the Frenchtown area who served in the war and stands on the grounds of a local elementary school on Harrison Street, also known as Route 619.

THINKING of VISITING?

LOCATION

Frenchtown is one of several charming little Delaware River towns in New Jersey, all of which are potential destinations by themselves. It is a few miles north of my hometown of Lambertville, so technically this truly is a “vacation from home” as I personally consider all of this in my backyard. Why, just getting to Frenchtown is a joy as it is at the northern end of a scenic driving byway recognized by both the state and federal governments. The byway is basically route 29 and offers wonderful views of the Delaware River as it passes through historically important towns like Raven’s Rock, Stockton, Lambertville, Titusville and Washington’s Crossing State Park on the way to Trenton 34 miles south. Following an old track bed of the Belvidere-

Delaware River scenic byway

Delaware Railway and the old towpath of the Delaware and Raritan Canal there is a multi-use trail that goes the entire length of the byway and is ideal for running or biking, as long as you don’t mind dodging deer or an occasional snapping turtle on the wooded Delaware & Raritan Canal Park trail. Ending in Frenchtown are Routes 513, 12, which starts in Flemington, and 619 which goes north along the river towards Milford. Directly across the Delaware is Uhlerstown, Pennsylvania. An earlier entry of this blog talked about the Tinicum Park Polo Club just south from Frenchtown on the Pennsylvania side. The club holds matches at the park nearly every Saturday May through to October. Opening Day is May 17 this year.

 DELAWARE RIVER SCENIC BYWAY

slow down...

The Spirit of the American Doughboy memorial is on the grounds of the Frenchtown Elementary School on Harrison Street, which is also Route 619. If you come from Route 12 or 29, make your way to Bridge Street and then head north onto Harrison Street. A word of caution, the speed enforcement is spirited in Frenchtown and limits are strictly monitored, especially along Harrison Street and even more so near the school. Perhaps you should plan your trip when school is not in session where the speed limit drops to 15 mph? There is plenty of parking on the street or nearby. The school and the memorial are at the north end of town, near 8^th street. It is a quiet town with many beautifully painted Victorian homes set on large lots. The downtown area features many shops, galleries and restaurants. It is a pleasant place. Some call the town a secret treasure. Frenchtown and its environs are well worth a day or overnight trip. There are several charming B&B’s in the area and although it is very rural here, New York City and Philadelphia are little more than an hour’s drive away.

(The Short) HISTORY                                                                              

The normally placid Delaware River has been a huge influence throughout the history of America. Today bridges cross the river in several places from Philadelphia to the New York state border, but during the colonial era commerce and people were transported across the river by ferries. Often the ferries were little more than a dock and boat and the site was named for the owner of the ferry at the time. The original name for my hometown, Lambertville, was Coryell’s Ferry and Frenchtown went by names like Calvin’s Ferry, Mechlenberg’s Ferry and Prigmore’s Ferry among others. Because Frenchtown’s ferry was so strategic during the revolutionary war the owner and his employees were exempt from militia duty. A grist and saw mill had started up in the area at that time and the growing settlement was called Sun Beam. Years later members of a prominent Huguenot family from Switzerland (although some have said they were from Belgium), arrived in the area and purchased large tracts of land. The (very short version) of the story says they were fleeing the French Revolution and its Reign of Terror and somehow settled on this western edge of New Jersey. Over the years Paul Henri Mallet-Prevost and his family became prominent members of Sun Beam and he even served as a justice of the peace. Because of his accent and his stature in town neighbors began to refer to Sun Beam as Frenchtown a mistake that has endured all these years.

Frenchtown embraces its small “mistake” to this day with a Bastille Day celebration every July.

 MORE HISTORY 

ATTRACTIONS, FOOD and DRINK

FRENCHTOWN

Most of Frenchtown’s business district is centered on a two block stretch of Bridge Street and Race Street, where many little shops and galleries are found, some with “French” motifs. Two yearly Christmas gift destinations for me in town are The Left Bank Home décor store and Sunbeam Toys, both on Bridge Street. Frenchtown lends itself to meandering strolls as it is quiet with little nuggets or stores or galleries worth exploring. There is parking along the towpath near the river just past the Bridge Café and along Bridge Street. Just park your car and start poking around.

SUNBEAM TOYS

Just south of town along Route 29 is the Frenchtown Roller Rink. It’s a dinky little place where my kids would go to skate when they were younger. Incredibly, this ancient relic recently produced two Olympians, Kyle Carr and Chris Creveling. They were inline speed skaters who transitioned to ice and competed in short-track speedskating in the recent winter Olympics in Sochi, Russia. Both Olympians started on the Frenchtown Speed Team when they were around 10 years old. In Sochi Creveling took silver with the Men’s 5000 meter relays.  The cash only rink is open throughout the week in the afternoon and evenings. Check their website for times and prices.

FRENCHTOWN ROLLER RINK

Over the past ten years the Delaware has flooded several times and will swell with winter melt or after storms. Residents of the river towns always keep an eye on the capricious Delaware and conversations in coffee shops often hover around its antics, but most of the time the Delaware is a placidly flowing, shallow river. During the summer the river brims with kayakers, canoers and tubing. Located in the same parking lot as the Frenchtown Rolling Rink is the Delaware River Tubing Company, where one can rent equipment. With your rental fee you get a couple of hot dogs at the RIVER HOT DOG MAN where you have to stand in line knee deep in the Delaware to get your food. There are several other rental houses on both sides of the Delaware, but this is the closest one to Frenchtown. This is a wonderful way to spend a lazy summer afternoon on the Delaware.

At the bottom of the hill is a parking lot and boat launch area for your own watercraft.

Food in Frenchtown is eclectic.  There are fancy places like the Frenchtown Inn, on Bridge Street and diners like the Frenchtown Café which serves wonderful breakfasts. Prepare to wait in line here. Both are on Bridge Street. The Bridge Café is also nice for a light lunch. It is in a renovated station house that once served the Belvidere-Delaware Railway. They have outdoor seating on the former platform with great views of the river and bridge. The National Hotel on Race Street serves interesting and diverse cuisine like crabcakes and Lebanese small plate appetizers. There is an upstairs formal restaurant and bar and downstairs in the renovated cellar is the Rathseller. Sadly their selection of beers is pedestrian. Hopefully this will change soon. Cocina del Sol is a byob Mexican restaurant on Bridge Street.

Usually if I travel the distance upriver I will go a little further to Milford where the Ship Inn is located. They are NJ’s first brew pub since the prohibition era. Very British and very nautically themed, the Ship Inn has a small selection of British style beers brewed on the premises served in 20 oz. British sized pints. There’s usually a couple on hand pump. According to their website, their beer is never too cold and never too fizzy. The menu has several British inspired foods like Scotch Eggs and Cheese and Onion Pies and not so British Nachos. Go on

THE SHIP INN

Wednesdays for their Fish and Chips special, when a pint is included in the price. The Ship Inn is in a renovated Victorian, doesn’t have a television, but it has an open mic night every Tuesday and live entertainment on Saturday nights. The wood for the bar came from a two lane bowling alley that was once in the building. It has a tin ceiling and brick walls and seafaring things hanging from the walls and pewter mugs hanging above the bar. You can buy locally grown food at the Ship Inn and then have your growler filled for $5.00. This cozy, local joint is a personal favorite. If you pass through Frenchtown on Harrison Street to see the World War 1 memorial, you just keep going north until you come to a traffic light make a left and the Ship Inn is on your right.

 THE SHIP INN, MILFORD, NJ

 Thanks for reading... hope you'll visit. The next stop for our tour of the NJ World War 1 statues is Dover.

The Jewel of the Meadowlands

SECAUCUS
This is the start of Vacations From Home’s tribute to our fallen heroes from WWI, the War to End All Wars. The global conflict began 100 years ago, with the United States entering the war in 1917. Many of the memorials remain to this day and approximately 10% of them feature the Spirit of the American Doughboy by E.M. Viquesney. New Jersey has eight of these unique statues and our first visit is to Secaucus.

Secaucus

Like many of the remaining “Spirit” statues, the memorial is on Municipal property. Here it stands in front of the town hall on Paterson Plank Road and the dedication is to Joseph Hassenforder, the only soldier from Secaucus to have died in the conflict. Corporal Hassenforder was killed on July 15, 1918 and is buried in the Oise-Aisne American Cemetery, about two miles outside Fere-en-Tardenois, France. The “Spirit” statue is remarkably detailed after all these years, but can use some attention as he is listing a bit to his right.  It is also an interesting golden color and looks like he has been painted.

THINKING OF VISITING?

LOCATION

Secaucus is a popular town. Every year thousands of people pass through it via Route 3 on their way to New York City, which is just 4 miles away, or zip along on the NJ Transit trains that stop at the Secaucus Junction on their way to Manhattan’s Penn Station. Looming across the Hackensack River, which is the town’s western border, is Metlife Stadium where the Giants and Jets play and where the Super Bowl was recently held. Football fans may recall the Jets in their heyday had their “Broadway” Joe Namath. Conversely when the NY Football Giants migrated to the Meadowlands, their quarterback at the time, Joe Piscarcik, was called “Paterson Plank” Joe. Paterson Plank Road is the main thoroughfare through Secaucus. Despite all these “visitors” to Secaucus, it was somewhat shocking to discover it is a lovely little town, like an eddy off a turbulent river. Secaucus is called the Jewel of the Meadowlands for good reason, and despite the traffic hurtling along the highway, there is block after block of neat clean homes and quiet streets. It is serene.

ATTRACTIONS and HISTORY

When I lived in Northern New Jersey, my first introduction to Secaucus (other than commuting through it) involved the numerous outlet shops that are dotted throughout the vast industrial area that comprises much of the town. Secaucus was one of the original “outlets”, a word and concept fairly deluded now. Many of the stores are actually distribution warehouses for the products they sell. It’s not very fancy, but good buys can be found. Go here for a map of available shops.

SECAUCUS OUTLETS

Before it was a shopping mecca and jewel of the Meadowlands, Secaucus was home to over 50 pig farms and the porkers vastly out-numbered humans. Between the pigs and the rendering plants; the farms supplied meat to Newark and New York; it was smelly. I remember the old joke: ““you smell caucus before you Secaucus.”  The pigs are gone though and Secaucus is a little suburban town and home to a “Spirit of the American Doughboy” World War I memorial.

Another attraction is the Meadowlands Exposition Center on the westbound side of Route 3 that hosts varied events. Just recently the Great Beer Expo was held there and near there are many chain restaurants and some large stores like Wal-Mart are in this area. 

GREAT BEER EXPO

For future events at the Meadowlands Exposition Center:

MEADOWLANDS EXPOSITION CENTER SCHEDULE

Secaucus is also a good place for eco-tourism. The Hackensack River is the western border and there are trails throughout the meadowlands. One can rent canoes or kayaks, launch their own watercraft, or go on a guided tour of the marshlands offered by the Hackensack Riverkeeper, April through October.  It can be gritty though, with traffic whirring along the Turnpike, but it is so incredibly close to New York City. To see such natural beauty in the heart of this crowded metropolitan area is a fascinating world worth exploring. Of course, trail heads begin in places like… “next to the Stop ‘N Shop at the Mill Creek Mall” and perhaps fans of the Sopranos may feel this is a stomping ground for T’s crew, but that’s all fiction…right?

HACKENSACK RIVERKEEPER

Jewel of the Meadowlands

Parking

Because of Secaucus’ proximity to NYC, be aware that parking is a premium. The Municipal Complex is on the corner of Paterson Plank Road and County Road with no available parking on those streets. The facility has free parking in the back of the building, but I would not leave the car there to go explore the rest of the town. Signs for permit parking for residents only are prevalent on the side streets. There are a number of timed parking spots further down Paterson Plank Road and there is a little strip mall a few blocks away that does not seem to have a time limit.

FOOD AND DRINK

You want local New Jersey flavor? Go to Charlie’s Corner, across Paterson Plank Road and down a few blocks from the memorial. It is a good, honest cash only dive bar patronized by nearly every New Jersey character possible. There are bikers and hipsters, young professionals and old coots like myself. It’s loud with a robust sound system and a stage in the middle of the circular bar that hints that Charlie’s was once a strip joint. Not sure of this, but they do play the music loud. The Strokes was pounding through the speakers the night I stopped in. The décor is busy with pictures of patrons plastered all over the walls and sparkly things hanging from the ceiling. Sadly it was just the usual suspects in the beer department and it’s not the sort of place you ask for a beer menu. I saw someone with a Brooklyn Lager and ordered that for $5.00. Charlie’s is a bit seedy, but worth the stopover. Charlie's is at 1254 Paterson Plank Road.

Charlie's Corner

A few good recommendations for cheap, decent food are all at the Plaza Center down the road from the memorial. It’s a strip mall where you can park for a while. There’s a good pizzeria that serves generous slices at Plaza Pizza and next door is Vito and Sons Italian bakery; great pastries and cookies as well as cold sandwiches. If you’re lucky they have fresh mozzarella for sale the day you visit.  But, by far my favorite place to eat is the Bagel Buffet at the far end of the plaza. It’s a great place for sandwiches and salads all at reasonable prices. It’s clean with plenty of tables. There are no waitresses. Instead you order at the counter and as you wait you can watch them prepare and bake bagels in a huge oven. After they are boiled the baker arranges them on moistened slabs of wood that rotate into the oven. It’s fascinating.

There are so many reasons to go to Secaucus.

The next stop on our New Jersey excursion will be Frenchtown.

Thanks for reading.