GREEN BEANS AND SAND

GOING SOUTH

Do you like green beans and sand?

Both are here in this far away land

Would you like beans in your mug?

Would you like sand in your rug?

You can swim there, yes it’s true

Green sand against the ocean blue

And green beans make great coffee too

The Big Island waits for you

Hawaii, commonly called The Big Island, was Team VFH’s final stop in our visit to the 50^th State this past summer. It’s a huge island, over 4,000 square miles, bigger than the combined land mass of the other islands that make up the tropical archipelago. Sadly we had just five days on Hawaii and so we decided to concentrate on the southern portion. We were staying in the Puna district, south of Hilo, so it was reasonable to stay around here. Everywhere else is so far away. Early on we decided to forego traveling to the Kohala coast in the north for their white, sandy beaches, or to the Kona coast for their coffee, or to the Parker Ranch in Waimea, the oldest and largest ranch in America, well, for some Hawaiian-style beef jerky.THE PARKER RANCH, WAIMEA, HI

No, the distances were too great and we would have spent our entire time on Hawaii driving. The return on investment was not enough, especially with the gas prices in Hawaii. So, apart from one day we pretty much stayed close to home in the southeast corner of the island.

DISTRICT 9

Not a worry though, for there is plenty to do and see in our "neck of the woods". Puna is one of 9 districts of the island in the county of Hawaii. Now, to clarify, these districts are not “counties”, but areas of interest. Counties in the state of Hawaii are either an individual island or a grouping of islands. For example, Honolulu County is Oahu, although it also includes the Northwest or Leeward Islands that stretch out past the Midway Islands. Kauai County includes Kauai, Niihau and a couple of tiny islets. And, Hawaii, the Big Island, all by itself, is also the county of Hawaii. The island is divided into these districts with names like Puna, Hilo, Kona and Ka’u, and each have their own individual attractions.

Puna is home to the little hippie capital of Pahoa with its string of clapboard buildings housing restaurants along a boardwalk that serves as a sidewalk. We ate a couple of meals in Pahoa. A lava flow that began on June 27^th inches closer to towards the town at this writing. Another town, Kalapana, was not so lucky. In 1990 lava partially covered the town, but the community still thrives with the weekly Uncle Robert’s Farmers Market. The weekly event, where the ongoing “struggle” to maintain the Kingdom of Hawaii is centered, is really a huge party that throbs deep into the night.

Also found off the beaten path in Puna are miles of coastline with black sand beach parks and camp sites as well as the volcanically heated Ahalanui Beach Park that is partially open to the ocean which allows sea water to mix with the heated water. There is even a lifeguard here. A great place to go snorkeling is at the Waiopae Tidepools that has several interconnecting pools to explore. The eerily tranquil Lava Tree State Park near Pahoa is another stop where lava molds of trees burned in a flow from the 1700’s stand like sentinels warning of Pele’s destructive might.

AHALANUI BEACH PARK

Ahalanui Beach Park

And, of course there is Volcano National Park which sprawls beyond Puna’s border into the neighboring district of Ka’u. Home to the most active volcano in the world today, Kilauea has been adding to the girth of the Big Island since 1983 making it the longest eruption in recorded history. There’s plenty to do at the park with vantage points to view the lava (from a safe distance), camping and unique hiking trails that includes the Thurston lava tube, Devastation Trail and the Kilauea Iki Crater Trail.

Kilauea Iki Crater Trail

So, you’re thinking with all these wonderful destinations in our relative backyard there really was no reason to venture very far, but in the very next district of Ka’u there are two very, very unique things that should not be missed if one were fortunate enough to travel to this island. Plan to spend an entire day exploring black sand and green sand beaches and drinking great coffee from Ka'u. 


SUN, RAIN AND A KISS OF VOG

Now, many of us with just a passing knowledge of Hawaii know about Kona coffee. It is grown on the western slopes of Mauna Loa. This coffee is known for its smoothness, its rarity and conversely its price.  A pound of pure Kona can be around $30.00 and for over 100 years it was the only coffee grown in the United States. That has changed. While the Kona label was being slapped onto any coffee from anywhere and “blends” proliferate the market; you can even buy “Kona” at your local WaWa; another coffee from the eastern slopes on Mauna Loa in the Ka’u district is growing in popularity.

Even as Kona has taken steps to protect the brand name, Ka’u, with deep, rich, volcanic soils, a temperate climate of morning sunshine and afternoon clouds (or as some would call it VOG or Volcanic Smog) and a healthy amount of yearly rainfall, has been slowly making a name for itself in coffee competitions. Mostly mom and pop endeavors the Ka’u brand is slowly growing. When the Kau sugar plantations closed in 1996, the displaced area sugar workers were provided inexpensive leases for 5 acre plots by the former sugar plantation owners in order to grow coffee.  At first it was difficult to just break even, but when Ka’u coffee placed the top ten of a Roasting Guild Cupping Pavilion Competition of 2007, coffee in Ka’u starting gaining a reputation of growing very good coffee. Although Ka'u prices have risen with this new-found popularity, it is still a cheaper alternative to Kona.

Embarrassingly Team VFH had never heard of Ka’u coffee before visiting the district, so we don’t want you to make the same mistake. Evidently since 2011 you can purchase Ka’u coffee at a Starbucks, but it wasn’t until we saw a sign along Route 11 near Pāhala, HI that invited us to taste the coffee at the Ka’u Coffee Mill along Wood Valley Road that we sampled this superior coffee. 

Serendipitously following our taste buds we passed through the modest town of Pāhala and climbed up the hill passing groves of Macadamia nut and coffee trees to the very new facility. The mill opened in May 2012 and provides a service to the local Ka’u growers which previously had to either bring their crop west to Kona or north to Puna. It also provides jobs to the local inhabitants and it helps raise awareness of Ka’u coffee through a yearly Coffee Festival and Beauty Pageant and a half marathon called the Ka’u Coffee Trail Run.

KA'U COFFEE FEST APRIL 24-MAY 3, 2015

The mill opened in 2012 and the clean facility is staffed by great Aloha spirited people who explain the process of coffee washing and roasting. There were plenty of samples of coffee to drink and several flavored varieties of macadamia nuts to taste. We purchased a 16 oz bag of Hawaii Fancy Ka'u Washed Green Beans to roast when we got back Stateside.

Miss Ka'u Coffee Queen
Amery Silva

KA'U COFFEE MILL

The Ka'u Coffee Mill is a worthwhile stop if you are anywhere near Pāhala, but you can also order from them directly or any of the other Ka'u coffee farmers to get a taste of this great Hawaiian coffee at home. Here is a listing of the farmers of Ka'u. KA'U COFFEE GROWERS

Looking back, it is fascinating to think that this entire world of Ka'u coffee was revealed to us from one lone street sign along Route 11. This is a very rural area of the island. To have the spirit and inclination to "explore" is what traveling is all about. Never plan every waking moment on a trip because you will miss so much. Of course, fair readers, now that you know all about Ka'u Coffee you can plan your excursions to the area accordingly. 

LEAP OF FAITH - KA LAE

The cliffs at South Point

The Ka'u district is the southernmost point in the United States. Stand at the tip of the island and stare out onto a great expanse of the Pacific ocean that will not be interrupted until you hit Antarctica! It is thought the first Polynesians who landed on Hawaii did so near South Point somewhere between 400 and 800 AD. Throughout the area of this National Historical Landmark there are ruins of ancient Hawaiian temples. 

This desolate area of the island is well worth exploring. Between the actual Point and visiting the green sand of Papakolea beach, expect to spend a good portion of your day. There are no facilities in the area, so make sure you pack a lunch and bring plenty of water. Although South Point Road has been much improved in recent years and is okay to drive, when the pavement ends  the road gets very rutted and rough and rental cars companies wouldn't appreciate you driving on them in their cars. So, once you get to the end of the road you will either do a lot of hiking, the green sand of Papakolea  beach is 2.5 miles away from the parking area, or you will pay a local to give you a ride out there.  

cliff diving at the point

Ka Lae, the Hawaiian name for the Point, is very far off the open road. Turn off Route 11 in the town of Naalehu onto South Point Road and keep going. There are miles of rural open ranch lands as far as you can see. You will pass a line of otherworldly wind mills, but the rest of the scenery is ranch lands with few buildings. The Pacific is far in the distance and as you drive it feels like you are racing towards the end of the world, and when you finally take the right fork in the road and come to the end you literally stand on the cliffs and there's no where else to go except back. It truly seems like the end of the world! 

fishing at the point

Now the actual point is a short walk down the "road" where there are no cliffs. But we never got that far for we were mesmerized by the cliff diving. We stood awestruck  as we watched several brave souls leap off the cliff into the blue ocean 50 feet below. Friends applauded and photographed them. There evidently is a ladder they used to climb out of the water, but I was not about to lean over the edge to see it for myself. To this day Janet is disappointed she not take the leap herself, but I was quite happy watching from a safe distance. 


PAPAKOLEA BEACH 

rutted road to Papakolea

We lingered for awhile in the hot sun gazing out onto the endless Pacific watching the divers and locals fishing, but our true reason for venturing out this far was to visit the green sand beach, Papakolea.  

green sand beach Hawaii

I have to admit that I love collecting sand wherever I travel and my sand collection includes samples from several continents and countless islands. Mostly the samples are well displayed in small glass jars with tags detailing particulars, sometimes even the date I visited the beach. (There's also a lot other samples in water bottles scattered throughout the house...) Friends too have given me sand as a gift whenever they have the good fortune to visit a place I have not yet graced. My sands are white, red, black, grey and beige, but until today, not green. 

Green sand is rare, although olivine, the silicate that is a product of lava, can be fairly common. Some say there are four green sand beaches in the world; on Guam, on the Galapagos Islands, in Norway and the green sand beach in Ka'u. Papakolea Beach is a collapsed cinder cone open to the sea. It last erupted 49,000 years ago. Olivine is denser and tougher than the other materials spewed out by the volcano and tends to accumulate on the beach, while the other materials wash away in the surf. This gives Papakolea its unique coloring. 

Punalu'u

Tiny amounts of olivine can be found on many of the black sand beaches of the Big Island, but because they are so geologically young they are still mostly black sand. Two black sand beaches nearby are Punalu'u and Kalapana. 

The beach at Punalu'u is easily accessible. You can drive right up to it, but the green sand beach of Papakolea is very remote. From the end of the paved road it is approximately 2.5 miles along the rutted tracks that serve as road. When you drive down South Point Road take the left fork until the end. After this only four wheel drive vehicles are suitable here. There were plenty of locals offering to drive us to the green sand beach for a nominal cost, but we decided to hike it and then pay someone to take us back. 

It was dusty and windy and humid and hot. Sunscreen and water and sturdy shoes are necessities. There is no shade from the sun. Also, once you reach the cone you have to descend into it. It is very steep and slow going and there is a severe rake into the water. The water can be very rough. Do not allow the surf to pull you out of the cove. There are no lifeguards. All this seems treacherous, but after a long hike getting into the water to cool off was wonderful and a soothing experience. Curious sea turtles swam nearby. We were definitely aware of the powerful waves here and stayed very close to shore.

When it was time to leave I surreptitiously gathered a sample of sand for my collection, ignoring the weather worn wooden sign that said we shouldn't and we climbed out of the cinder cone. At the top we were approached by a local kid who offered us a ride back to our rental car in his rusty pick up truck. It was the best money I had ever spent. It would have been too much to hike both ways. 

Tired and hungry we stopped in at the Shaka Restaurant in Naahelu for a much needed beer and some food. It is the southernmost bar in the United States! I had a Loco Moco and Janet had some Ono. It's a bit of a dive bar, but it's very close to the green sand beach and a great local hang out. Cash only. 

For those of you who might be interested in visiting Ka Lae to jump off those cliffs... here's a taste:

you're crazy...just sayin....

Mahalo for reading! 
love Janet and greg

WHERE AM I GONNA GO?

PELE WANTS HER LAND BACK

Pele, the Fire Goddess of Hawaii

I have heard that real estate is a great investment, because they ain’t making any more land. Well, in Hawaii they have been making more every day for over these past 30 years. The Kilauea volcano on the southeastern slope of the Big Island has been having one of the longest eruptions ever known in recorded history. Since 1983 Pu’u O’o, a cinder/splatter cone along the eastern rift zone of Kilauea has been spewing lava and consequently the Big Island is approximately 100 square kilometers bigger and the coastline has been altered permanently.

But, it’s not like you can build on the new property anytime soon and people may still lay claim to properties covered by the lava. The flow destroyed the towns of Kapa’ahu, Kalapani and Kaimu and the coastal highway by suffocating all beneath 50 feet of Pahoehoe lava. Some native Hawaiians say no one can ever actually “claim” the land anyway. They feel it is owned by the goddess of volcanoes, Pele, and every once in a while she is compelled to clean house. The belief states that we should be grateful that Pele allows one to live on the land at all.

Whether there are Hawaiian gods involved or a geological hotspot, Kilauea has been the most active volcano in the world and its activity impacts a heck of a lot of people.

 

LAVA GETTING CLOSE

GO WITH THE FLOW

Lava from a vent off the Pu’u O’o cone has been slowly approaching the town of Pahoa in the Puna district of the Big Island since June 2014. Dubbed the June 27th Lava Flow by the County of Hawaii, which offers daily updates of the lava’s progress, recently stated the lava has stalled, but is within a mile of Route 130, the main highway that connects the 10,000 residents of this district to the rest of the island. Some businesses at the Pahoa Marketplace that had evacuated in December are recently reopening, but the threat of lava including unhealthy air conditions of Vog, or volcanic smog, are closely monitored. WHERE IS THE LAVA?

The attached map is an example of the daily monitoring of the lava flow by the county and shows how far the lava has advanced and its proximity to the area's communities. The dotted lines also show ways of escaping the area if lava blocks off route 130. 

PUNA DISTRICT LAVA FLOW

This is serious business, but despite a pissed off Pele, this area of the Big Island proved to be a great place to visit. There is less tourism here in the Puna district, south of Hilo, as people usually gravitate to the Kailua-Kona side for the resorts there. Team VFH chose the Puna district as our third and final stop in the Hawaiian islands last summer, but we were never threatened by this most recent lava eruption.

We rented a house in Hawaiian Paradise Park, a little community just a short ride up Route 130 from Pahoa. The house belonged to a couple of older hippies on an acre of property, complete with chickens. We paid just $75 a night for the house and found it through Air BNB. AIR BNB

KAMA'AINA, KALEO'S AND KOMBUCHA  

Of the three islands we had visited, The Big Island and specifically this Puna district, was the most appealing to me. It was very laid back and not many tourists will travel this far, instead they would usually head up to the Volcano National Park along Route 11. At the park there are access points where one can ogle the Kilauea Caldera and trails like the Devastation Trail and the Iki Crater Trail, where one descends into a still warm crater, to further explore this majestic display.

Halema‘uma‘u at Volcano NP

Our first night on the Big Island was not so adventurous. We went out to dinner at Kaleo's, a very nice restaurant on Pahoa's main street. We like to sit at the bar for meals and we must have just fit in. The bartender asked us where we lived in the area and he was surprised we were vacationing from the mainland. I like being mistaken for a Kama'aina, a local. That was a huge compliment for us. Oh, the food was great too. I had sesame crusted Ono.

KALEO'S PAHOA TOWN

Now, to describe Pahoa as a little hippie town is dead on, complete with a Kava bar populated by barefooted kids. We had poked our heads in and decided that the LaHiki Kava Bar was not serving our beverage of choice. As we walked out though the owner, a young guy, asked us to stay and tried to ply us with a free sample of something that wasn't beer or rum. We politely refused.

Luquin's is a seedy Mexican restaurant offering surprisingly good food was another stop for us in Pahoa on another night. 

WHERE AM I GONNA GO when the volcano blows?

Our adventures on the Big Island will be further documented in future blog entries. Hopefully the recent lava flow will finally stop for good and lift the spirits of the locals again, or at least until Pele is compelled to clean out her house once more. 

Mahalo for reading. love Janet and greg

Although this video may be about Montserrat it does involve a volcano, so enjoy! And, you know, in Hawaii that is good enough. Why sweat small details that really don't matter.

LOVE

ALL YOU NEED?
As we begin our journey in 2015 the road ahead is fresh and brims with opportunity. The choice is ours to bend our trails in this direction or that, but whatever our inclination or destination we should all allow love to prevail. Without love we are nothing. Without love we are alone. 

Travel well.

OUR TIME IN EDEN

ENJOY THE VIEW

How precious and fleeting is life? How fortunate that we have lived and breathed and laughed and loved for all these days? As the recent lava flows on the Big Island threaten the town of Pahoa, we are reminded of the capriciousness of life. Our time in Eden is sadly, short-lived, both figuratively and literally. Yet, imbued with the infectious Aloha spirit where time slows and attitudes lilt, Team VFH realizes how serendipity and chance can soften the blows of such realities, or unfortunately add to our grief. Well, rather than cobbling together a list of cautionary tales perhaps it is better to just sit back and enjoy the view, and what better place than in Hawaii.

Maui Palms (C) Pierre Leclerc

Of course, opting to travel to Hawaii is not done lightly, especially for your favorite cheapskates. The cost of such a trip cannot be ignored. Airfares are steep. Food can be expensive and Hawaii’s gas prices are the highest in the United States. It is far away. This tropical archipelago is the most isolated population center in the world. California is 2,300 miles away and Japan is 3,800 miles distant. You can’t go much further west before you hit the International Date Line and the day starts anew. So, if you come this far you should not complain about the costs; just enjoy the view. What is particularly fascinating is that on this range of massive volcanic mountains, just barely peeking above the blue Pacific, one has the same expectations of life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness as they would in New Jersey.

NEW JERSEY PALM

Okay, I’ll give you the scenery and weather of Hawaii’s Eden is a bit lovelier than New Jersey’s Eden, although paradise in both places is fairly expensive. A recent article puts Hawaii and NJ in the top seven most expensive places to live in the United States. Yes, it may be a “self-evident truth,” but it’s gonna cost ya. If you opt to travel to Hawaii then, throw out your budget.  Considering a move? Convince yourself you won't survive "island fever"; your pocketbook will be happier in the long run. 

MOST EXPENSIVE STATES TO LIVE

URBAN DICTIONARY DEFINITION OF ISLAND FEVER

Here’s a game to play. This website compares cost of living between cities. I compared my historic and touristed little river town, Lambertville, New Jersey with Lahaina, a spirited tourist town on the Valley Isle, Maui. According to the website it is 38% more expensive in Lahaina, Maui than my place in New Jersey. I admit it’s not a very fun game for dreamers.

WHERE TO LIVE?

Going FULL TOURIST

SERENDIPITY AND CHANCE AND HAPPY HOURS
Thankfully there is one self-evident truth in Hawaii that surprisingly is not expensive. In fact Happy Hours, that sensible catering to the thirsty masses, are rather pervasive on Maui. One might not expect Hawaii and especially Maui, to be so reasonable, but even in the deepest recesses of the resort stretch along the Ka’anapali coast on West Maui one can find a number of places to get out of the sun and drink cheaply. Some of the joints are on the beach offering incredible views of the ocean and others are in strip malls, and some are hidden in industrial neighborhoods. There is a website that can help you navigate through all the options. It is from 2013, but hey, this is Aloha time central, so you know this is still up-to-date. MAUI HAPPY HOURS

Doing research at Duke's

Of course, with such a list one may have to throw out all other activities on Maui if you wanted to binge your way through all the listings! During a week of non-stop antics for your favorite moochers it was a wonder we managed to find the time to quench our thirst. 

Readers of this blog may remember our week of Maui exploring. On Monday we did the much ballyhooed "Road to Hana" and survived. Tuesday we went full-tourist and attended the Old Lahaina Luau. Wednesday was a beach day at Makena State Park's Little Beach and then a Willie K Dinner Show at Mulligan's on the Blue that evening. Thursday we went snorkeling at the crescent shaped islet Molokini and Friday had us greeting the sun atop Mount Haleakala before hurtling white-knuckled down the massive shield volcano on bikes.

Mai-Tai's at Dukes

Despite our limited free time we managed to squeeze in some libation research. Just a few to share here.

MAUI BREWING COMPANY
Since our arrival on Hawaii I had been drinking the Maui Brewing Company's Big Swell IPA in cans and our first research drinking soiree was to go to the source. Inside the large, airy brewpub contrasts the strip mall location. They offer an extensive variety of very good MBC beers that are written on chalkboards and a strip of ice embedded in the bar to keep your selection cold. Decent price for burgers and the Happy Hour is daily from 3-6 pm and beers are $5.00 for pints.
MAUI BREWING COMPANY

Maui Brewing Company

DUKE'S BEACH HOUSE
I'm always wary about slick, touristy joints like Duke's Beach House. It screams expensive. After all it is right on the Ka'anapali Beach Boardwalk with resorts everywhere. On our first day on Maui we took a stroll along the boardwalk and were pleasantly surprised by their "Aloha" hour prices. From 3-5 pm many of their beer offerings are under $5 and Mai-Tai's were $6. We were fully expecting our libations to set us back a day's pay or two!  Of course, Janet insisted on eating the flowers they floated in our drinks!
DUKE'S BEACH HOUSE

Sunset at Hula Grill

HULA GRILL's BAREFOOT BAR
This joint is right on the ocean and we snagged a couple of pews at the crowded Hula Grill Barefoot Bar to drink some Mai-Tai's and watch the sunset. This evening it seemed everyone had the same idea. Located at the very busy Whaler's Village shopping mall, the Hula Grill brimmed with tourists. Thankfully live music, sand a beautiful sunset and pupus like Hawaiian Creviche and Crab & Macademia Nut Wontons, helped us overlook the commotion. Their Aloha hour is also 3-5 pm and features $6 Mai-Tai's. 
HULA GRILL

BETTY'S BEACH CAFE
Speaking of serendipity it certainly was a pleasant surprise to discover Betty's Beach Cafe our last evening on Maui. This little gem is on Front Street in Lahaina but far enough from the burgeoning tourist areas. We went there on a Friday evening and it was quiet. Betty's Beach Cafe is set in the back of an unassuming little mall, but the back lanai has not only a great view of the ocean and sunsets, but also free view of the smaller and more intimate Feast at Lele Luau. This luau features fire dancing, something the Old Lahaina Luau does not. So, if you're inclined to save money you can reserve a seat with Betty on her lanai.

view from Betty's lanai

Betty's Beach Cafe is open from 8 am for breakfast through to midnight. With food specials like Wednesday night lobster dinners and daily drink specials like $2 margaritas and $3 mai-tais for their early and late happy hours Betty's Beach Cafe should be a destination for the budget conscience whether or not you want to see the luau for free. Had we more time in Maui I would have insisted on becoming a regular at this joint. 
BETTY'S BEACH CAFE

Okay, if you're interested in spending money you too can go FULL TOURIST and go to the Feast at Lele Luau. Go here for particulars: FEAST AT LELE But, here is a sample of what you'll see from Betty's lanai!

Mahalo for reading. Here's hoping your Thanksgiving and Holiday season is spent in the company of friends and family. Stay safe. Love, Janet and greg

THE HOUSE OF THE SUN

MOUNT HALEAKALA

On a beautiful tropical island of "must-do" escapades, Team VFH’s trip to Maui's Mount Haleakala to see the sunrise topped them all, literally. We saved the best for last, for not only did we drive up to the top of this massive mountain to see the first rays of a Friday morning in what could be described as a solemn event, we then hurtled down the mountain on bikes. The combination of sublime beauty and terrifying exhilaration made Team VFH’s final full day on Maui one to remember. 

Maui lassoing the sun

Two volcanoes make up Maui. On the western side is Mauna Kahalawai. It is the older of the two and has eroded over millions of years. There are deep valleys, ridges and steep cliffs on West Maui. Those crevices capture moisture which graces us daily with beautiful rainbows and a broad, flat western shoreline. This is where our Kaanapali resort is located as well as the spirited town of Lahaina. 

Looming over all though is the majestic Mount Haleakala. She rises 10,023 feet above the Pacific. This shield volcano makes up three quarters of Maui which is the second largest island in the Hawaiian archipelago. But Haleakala rises from the ocean floor. If one calculates the height from there, she is 30,000 feet in elevation and taller than Mt. Everest at 29,000. 

Haleakala is a shield volcano, named because of its gently sloped profile, which looks like a warrior's shield laying face up. The gradual slope that steepens in the middle before flattening out at the summit is formed by "Hawaiian eruptions", the name given to steady flows of very fluid pahoehoe lava that over time accumulates in broad sheets that result in this massive, unique shape. Also created by these "Hawaiian" eruptions are Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea on the Big Island.

Pahoehoe lava '88 (c) 2014 g dunaj

In the Hawaiian language Haleakala means House of the Sun and ancient lore has it that the demigod Maui lassoed the sun to force it to slow down as it raced across the sky. Evidently Maui's mother was unable to get her tapa cloth dried, because the sun was moving too fast. Only when the sun agreed to slow down 6 months of the year did Maui let him go and that's how we get longer days in the summer.

The crater at the summit is large enough to fit Manhattan inside it, at 7.5 miles long and 2.5 miles wide and 3,000 feet deep. The crater has its own mini-mountain range inside it with a line of cinder cones with the tallest at 1,000 feet in elevation. It is possible to hike and even ride horses through the crater of the dormant volcano, but Janet and I went to the summit of Haleakala to witness the sunrise. All our week on Maui we have cooed over brilliant sunsets, on our last full day here we decided to greet the day.  

the rare silversword

SATELLITES OF LOVE

Despite the allure of a breath-taking sunrise, Mt. Haleakala is a foreboding place. You are very, very far away from the tropics at the barren summit. The only plant that grows at the top is the endangered Silversword and it grows nowhere else but above 6,900 feet at Mount Haleakala. Temperatures at the top are as much as 30 degrees colder than at sea level and some people can experience thin air sickness if they ascend too quickly. But, at 10,023 feet the visibility is incredible and on cloudless, moonless nights the Milky Way is readily seen while at the summit of Haleakala and even satellites can be seen arcing across the heavens on occasion. The potential to see such an array of heavenly beauty was fascinating to me and this excursion was high on my list. I was willing to risk cold, thin air and sleep deprivation all for this chance. The main event, the sunrise at the summit of Mount Haleakala was almost secondary. 

SUNRISE / SUNSET 

It is not necessary to book a “tour” with a company to visit Mount Haleakala. You can negotiate the zig-zag road that climbs 38 miles up the mountain yourself and pay the $10 admission per car for a three day pass to the Haleakala National Park and go at any time of the day. Activities at the summit area of the park include hiking, camping, horseback riding as well as the sunrise. The pass also gets you into the Kipahulu Valley rainforest district during the 3 day span. 

sunrise at Mt Haleakala

Now, traveling to the summit for the sunset is an option. It is less popular and far less crowded. Hundreds of people will line the guardrail at the lip of the crater to watch the sunrise, but at sunset there are a few dozen. It is beautiful either time of the day, but just be aware that temperatures will drop with the setting sun and you will have to drive down that mountain in the dark. There are no street lamps.

You may be inclined to go it alone for the sunrise, but be aware there is plenty of competition for space at the summit as this is a very popular activity on Maui and gridlock on the dark road is quite possible. When the parking lot is filled the rangers won't let anymore cars into the park. At the summit, getting out of the van, our tour guides pointed out the line of headlights still waiting to get into the park. It got to be very crowded, but the guides ushered us to an area near the guardrail at the edge of the crater and we had an unobstructed view of the sunrise as it slowly revealed the vast crater of Mount Haleakala. Plus, without the guides we would have missed the second part of this incredible excursion, which was riding bikes white-knuckled down the mountain.

HURTLING DOWN HALEAKALA

There was a savings booking our trip to Mt. Haleakala through the concierge at our resort, but the fee was still as steep as the road to the crater. At least the outfit we went with, BIKE IT MAUI also included a breakfast with their $120 tab per person. 

The Bike It Maui van picked us up at the ungodly hour of 2:00 am, which seemed excessively early. But, sunrise was around 5:40 that morning and from our resort to the crater was 54 miles. They also made the rounds picking up other patrons from other resorts and then picking up one of the guides, Manny, in Kahului. We also stopped for refreshments in Kahului, for there is nothing available at the crater summit, and then later the actual equipment in a trailer that they hitched to the van. This all took a long while, so sadly by the time we reached the crater. bundled in the warm rain gear Bike It Maui provided us, the sky already had a hint of light on the horizon. We did not see the Milky Way.

Janet's suggestion to take a blanket from the resort seemed a bit over zealous, but it proved to be very necessary. Balmy at sea level it was very cold at the top. The wind was steady and added to the chill. Already bundled in our Bike It Maui attire we gathered the blanket around us and I hugged Janet close for warmth as we watched the night slip away and the glorious sun illuminate the other worldly crater that stretched out from our perch. Just as the sun came up a National Park volunteer greeted the day with a Hawaiian chant in a loud clear voice which only added to the revered start to this day.

DAWN

E ala e Ka la i kahikina
I ka moana
Ka moana hohonu
Pi’i ka lewa
Ka lewa nu’u
I kahikina
Aia ka la.
E ala e!

It is called a Mele Oli or a free verse chanted poetry. When the volunteer began this blessing of the day I was in awe to be so graced. Truthfully I felt humbled; by the enormity of the mountain and its beauty, the solemness of this sacred place and the reverence shown it by the native Hawaiians. I hugged Janet a bit closer.

We lingered for awhile afterwards around the summit and through the visitor center before being ushered to the van by our guides. It was time for us to head down the mountain. 

Safety First

RIGHT SIDE OF THE YELLOW LINE

This last part of the morning would have been frightening if the crew from Bike It Maui did not place a strong emphasis on safety. Throughout the ride up Mount Haleakala, while fitting us for clothes and gloves and helmets and bikes they talked about safety concerns. How beautiful the scenery will be and how treacherous the road will be if we admire it for too long as we ride our bikes!!! After a number of fatalities in the park from riders ooing and aahing at the great vistas and going off the edge of the road, riding bikes in the park has been prohibited. All bike tour companies are required to drive their patrons out of the park to begin their descent.

After fitting us with helmets and bikes and telling us again and again about keeping a safe distance between us and the next bike AND making sure we stay on the right side of the yellow lines (because bad things happen on the wrong side), we set off for a 28 mile trip down hill. 

Thankfully our bicycle brakes worked. Except for a brief period, we rode almost the entire way down without pedaling. We barreled down the mountain in an orderly line with our guide, Manny, in the lead, somehow negotiating his way half the time looking back on us. The support van trailed us. We never felt in danger despite the swift speeds, and, as for the remarkable views, we did stop a ways down to pose for pictures with Manny orchestrating silly poses for us. 

At one point we all got back in the van to get through the rustic upcountry town of Makawao. The Bike It Maui team thought it was too busy and they did not want to risk getting hit by a Paniolos in his Mercedes. Paniolos is what they call cowboys in Hawaii. We did not get a chance to stop and explore this town that has a vibrant artistic community as well as the largest rodeo in all of Hawaii. The Makawao Rodeo has been held on the Fourth of July for over 50 years. As we negotiated the streets of Makawao we ogled the boutiques, galleries and the Rodeo General Store making mental notes that this is yet another destination on Maui worth exploring. MAKAWAO. 

The last leg after Makawao was short. The temperature rose. We finally shed all the outer layers provided us by Bike It Maui. The biking portion of the trip ended at the Holy Rosary Church in Paia. As Manny and his assistant fiddled with the equipment before we headed off for our well earned breakfast and a much needed nap in the van we peeked inside the Holy Rosary Church. All this paradise and beauty that is Maui and lives still are lived. We smiled back at the young faces of the newly confirmed posing happily in pictures displayed in the church's foyer.  I love Hawaii. 

Mahalo for reading and hope your day is filled with Aloha.

Manny in front!

CRATER SNORKELING

MOLOKINI
Every day Team VFH stayed on Maui was planned, even our idle times. All the sightseeing excursions and even the well-earned time at sand gravity were all charted and coursed and with good reason. There is so much to do on Maui and with only a week available to us at the Ka’anapali Beach Club we were determined to see as much of Maui as possible. After all it’s expensive to get to Hawaii and Maui is a very pricey place so no time was wasted, but, even with all of our planning we had to make executive decisions about where our allotted time would lead us and we had to sigh with resignation at not having enough time to do everything. 

Now, you may think this would be debilitating to a vacation, to have every moment planned? It is very feasible to just kick back at the resort and let the days saunter into happy hours and sunsets, but Hawaii, and particularly Maui, has so much beauty to offer that it would be a shame to just sit on a chaise lounge every day!

A room with a view

So far on Maui we have done a lot. We’ve ambled past resort after resort along the Ka’anapali Beackwalk, stopping for Mai Tai’s (of course) at Duke’s. We have taken the lovely and treacherous Road to Hana. We have gone “full tourist” to attend the “authentic” Old Lahaina Luau. We have dodged Honu the sea turtle while frolicking in the surf at the clothing optional Little Beach at Makena State Park and attended an incredible Uncle Willie dinner show concert at Mulligan’s on the Blue. Of course, we have also sat at the pool, were graced by rainbows each afternoon and sighed at the sunsets over Molokai as we stood on the beach hand-in-hand. We’ve had dinner at a restaurant along busy Front Street in Lahaina and had drinks at the Maui Brewing Company Brewpub, whose bar features a strip of ice to keep the beer cold. It’s been a very busy half week with all these “must-do” Maui destinations.

Next on the agenda for Team VFH was another must-do Maui excursion; snorkeling at Molokini. It is a partially sunken volcanic cone that has formed a curved islet. Approximately 3 miles off shore, in the channel between Makena State Park and the Target Isle, Kahoolawe, Molokini is the number one spot to snorkel on an island that has plenty of exceptional sites for the sport.  When I first saw pictures of the crescent shaped island I was shocked by the exotic beauty and my immediate thought was this had to be very inaccessible and a destination only for locals or the privileged. Thankfully Molokini was neither. With morning sails out of Maalaea Bay from several companies Molokini proved to be very accessible and a top tourist destination with good reason.
Because of the curved shape of Molokini the water inside the crater is sheltered from the ocean currents and this calm safe haven is home to several hundred species of fish and other marine-life. Molokini is in the middle of the channel and deep water and there are no sand deposits. The water is exceptionally clear and visibility is up to 150 feet. This combination of calm waters and pristine clarity make Molokini the number one destination for snorkeling on Maui. 

MAUI SNORKELING DESTINATIONS

Molokini is a State Marine Life and Seabird Conservation District and access is limited and going ashore is prohibited. Obviously disrupting the coral is too. Of course the fish are used to humans invading their home and are tame. Still to get to Molokini you need to take a tour. Each of the licensed tour companies have mooring spots so as not to disturb the coral. We went with Quicksilver and purchased our tickets through the resort at a discount. Still it was not cheap at $123 for the two of us. It was well worth the expense for this unique experience though. The price included a continental breakfast and a lunch. Alcoholic drinks were available after snorkeling for a very reasonable price. Underwater cameras were available for rental and by the time the Quicksilver docked again at Maalaea Bay the crew would have burned dvds of your pictures. We rented wetsuits because the water was cooler and they helped keep us afloat but the snorkeling gear was all included. 
QUICKSILVER MAUI

I have to say that the crater was somewhat crowded There were a lot of tour companies represented and there were a lot of bodies in the water, but Janet and I were able to glide along with comfort. The captain announced that the visibility at Turtle Town was poor. This was the second destination for our planned snorkeling adventure and because of the conditions there the Captain opted to stay longer than usual at Molokini, that it was not worth the effort to travel there. After awhile a lot of people returned to the boat anyway and for awhile we had free run of the crater largely to ourselves, unpressed for time. 

THE MAYOR OF TURTLE TOWN

We were disappointed though in not venturing over to "Turtle Town". It is an area near Maluaka Beach in South Maui and the protected Hawaiian Green Sea Turtle is in abundance here. The waters of this beach are calm and inviting to the turtles because Mount Haleakala blocks the prevailing trade winds. It is possible to drive to the area and snorkel from shore. Had we more time on Maui we might have visited these gentle creatures.
TURTLE TOWN INFO

Mahalo for reading. Sorry for the delay between entries. Please come back to read more about Team VFH 's extended trip through the Hawaiian Islands!

Janet and greg