CASTING A WIDE NET

SERENDIPITY AND CHANCE

The full majestic glorious attractive power of Team VFH was on display this past Fourth of July weekend as it was just one invite after another to BBQs and pools and dinner engagements! Avert your eyes if you must, but Vacations From Home was everywhere and everyone wanted to be near us. Open invitations, open pools and open refrigerators were ours for the choosing as we flitted from place to place in a sort of pseudo-intellectual reenactment of our country’s independence as we had the inalienable right of life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness! 

Dear faithful readers….you should be SO lucky.

How you may ask? How do we get invited to pool parties on the Main Line, that ultra-rich bastion of Philadelphian old money? Could it be because of the vivacious charms of Janet and my devilish good looks, in a nerdy sort of way, that people want to stick to us like Velcro, or could it really be good planning as we cast a wide net to ensnare all opportunities?  Perhaps it was all luck after all and while we were prepared to idle the days away in Janet’s home grown jungle of a back deck, content, the phone chimed to life with destinations for your humble cheapskates.

Out of respect to our hosts who may want to remain anonymous, lest their good luck at getting Team VFH to visit them offends their envious neighbors and friends, I shall not go into details here. Plus, your illustrious and humble team of entrepreneurial party animals, would not want to be so gauche as to announce their antics, unless of course it was somebody like Gisele Bundchen or Christie Brinkley who extended the invite and then that would be really really cool to “mention” here.

Our advice to you dear reader is this: One must prepare for any and all scenarios when the weekend approaches and never ever simply dismiss out of hand an invite and besides you can sleep in on Monday.

.  

Get to work. The next weekend is rapidly nearing. 

ESP

Eastern State Penitentiary

A Christmas gift from Janet’s daughter and son-in-law had Team VFH going to prison recently, and we liked it. In Philadelphia’s now gentrified Fairmount section, Eastern State Penitentiary operated as a prison from 1829 to 1971. After closing it was left in a derelict and moldering state until it was saved from destruction and use as a commercial space and tours began in the late 80’s. Eastern State Penitentiary is now a National Historical Landmark.

the Eye of God at ESP

THE PENNSYLVANIA WAY

When it opened ESP was the most expensive building in the country, with running water and a flush toilet in every cell. It was also the first institution that sought to rehabilitate inmates by placing them in separate cells and severely limiting their contact with others. This revolutionary idea of solitary confinement was meant to induce regret and penitence in the inmates for their crimes and not simply be a punishment. Each cell was lighted by the “Eye of God”, a portal that meant to inspire reverence. Indeed there is a church-like feel throughout the prison and while going on the self-guided audio tour people spoke quietly if at all. It is a scary ominous place and given the rapidly upcoming neighborhood of Fairmount, this neo-gothic edifice looms with a menacing starkness. A chill ran through me as I entered this feral place, so different from the world beyond the walls!  

The “Pennsylvania System” was adopted by hundreds of prisons around the world.

THAT’S WHERE THE MONEY IS

Subject to availability, tickets cost $14 for adults and it includes a self-guided audio tour narrated by Steven Buscemi. There are also guides throughout the prison to answer questions. One can stroll through most of the prison but several areas are cordoned off and have been left in their derelict and crumbling state.

Among the “highlights” of visiting the prison is the cell of Al Capone and the tunnel that was dug under the wall for an escape involving, among others, the bank robber Willie Sutton. Once Sutton was asked why he robbed banks and he said “that’s where the money is.”

VISITING EASTERN STATE PENITENTIARY

LET THEM EAT TASTYCAKES

People have reported seeing ghosts at ESP and the Halloween season is a very popular time to visit the grounds. Called, “Terror Behind the Walls,” it turns ESP into one very large haunted mansion. Prices are more expensive for the right to have the bejesus scared out of you. …. No thanks….

On July 16^th, Bastille Day will be celebrated at the prison. The storming of the Bastille as well as the entire French Revolution will be re-enacted with tongue-in-cheek humor in an hour long presentation culminating with Marie Antoinette throwing Tastycakes down onto the gathered hordes!

BASTILLE DAY AT ESP 

LET THEM DRINK BEER

Regular readers of this column know that Philadelphia is a vast mecca for beer, and if thirsty after your visit there are several places to drink. Here are a few:

The Belgian Café.  Just a block away from the prison on 21^ST and Green offering a great selection of Belgian beer

THE BELGIAN CAFE WEBSITE

Rembrandt’s. Featuring an ornate wooden bar on 23^rd Street

REMBRANDT'S WEBSITE

The Fairmount section of the city is becoming a beautiful area again. Where you go to enjoy your adult libation really depends on how far you want to walk, there are so many to choose to visit. Street parking is relatively easy to find, although there is a pay lot across the street from ESP.

YOU LIGHT UP MY LIFE

"I want to get you on a slow boat to China...."

So, sometimes Team VFH works independently to come up with solutions to an approaching weekend. Ideas about what to do or where to go are bounced around between us, but usually Janet wins. I joke here, because it’s never considered a “win”, but a great idea. Janet is the true brains behind this intrepid traveling duo. She loves doing the research and when she plans the day/trip she has every detail figured out from what we are doing, where we are drinking and eating and even where we are to park.

Now, at times I may feel strongly about something else and she kindly allows me to counter with different opinions, but only for a while. When she tires of my machinations and rolls that evil eye at me I have learned to stop and say “yes Dear,” if only out of self-preservation.

Hmmm… “yes Dear,” is the phrase every man needs to remember and utter often for a myriad of reasons.

Well the “yes dear” meter was peaking this past weekend as Janet decided on something called the Philadelphia Chinese Lantern Festival.  Located at Franklin Square, a small park at the very foot of the Ben Franklin Bridge, the festival runs through June 12^th. This is the final weekend. The hours are 6 pm to 10 pm and until 11 pm on the weekends. The 8 acre park is transformed nightly into a different world of colorfully lighted lanterns and displays. There are also artisans, food, a beer garden lighted by an incredible 300 foot fire breathing dragon and a stage featuring live entertainment like balancing acts and music. At first I thought it would be a hokey time, I normally would not consider attending something like this, but it was a very pleasing evening. We went Saturday night and though the festival was crowded we never felt rushed or crammed. We were able to linger over displays and stroll along leisurely.. The price is $17 for adults and $12 for kids 17 and under. Janet took several pictures at this family friendly event.   

Buy your tickets here: CHINESE LANTERN FESTIVAL

 

DRAGON BEER GARDEN

PEKING DUCK

The lines for food were very long on the festival grounds, so I would recommend that you eat before you enter. Philadelphia’s Chinatown is just a few blocks away. We ate at Sang Kee Peking Duck House on the corner of 9^th and Winter. The festival entrance is on 6^th and Race. We had the Peking Duck meal for two at $43 and each a “jar” of warm sake at $7 each. The Peking duck skin was delightfully crispy and the meat tender. Janet doesn't normally eat Chinese food, but Sang Kee is an exception. Janet found this place! Cash only. Sang Kee is very popular. Prepare to wait.  SANG KEE PEKING DUCK

PARKING

It turns out that after 5pm  the cost to park at the National Constitution center drops to just $5. The entrance is on the 5^th Street or the N Independence Mall side. As pedestrians you emerge on 6^th Street and just a block away from the festival. Park at 5 and either spend your time walking around the Independence Mall or get something to eat before you head into the festival…. And make sure you thank Janet for ALL this information. Tell her "yes Dear" for me!

ME MOTHER!

My Mother

I would be remiss if I didn’t mention that it was my Mother’s birthday yesterday. She passed away 15 years ago, but her influence on me remains; as well it should.  She was the glue that kept the family together and the driver of the family chariot. My father never got a driver’s license and my Mom was tasked with driving the boat-sized Plymouth Fury II in all our escapades. It was a massive smooth sailing automobile that we finally purchased in 1968 when I was twelve. Previous to buying the Plymouth we would take mass transit buses or the PATH or walk. We would walk to Newark for the museum, go on NJ Transit sponsored bus trips to places like the Statue of Liberty, or rely on an uncle to take us to the beach once a summer. Mom never really liked going to the shore and preferred the "mountains".

1968 Plymouth Fury II

Our fortunes and horizons broadened with the purchase of the Plymouth. I remember marveling at the gleaming white car that we somehow were finally able to afford. It was quite the luxury for this burgeoning blue collar family and soon thereafter we discovered the joys of road trips! Dad served as the "navigator" picking out destinations for us and the bumpers of the Plymouth were emblazoned with stickers noting our escapades. Places like Space Farms and the Land of Make Believe and Wild West City were just a few of the wacky NJ destinations we visited. You see, we never really drove very far from home; it was all day trips. The farthest ventures were to the Wilkes-Barre / Scranton area where we had family.

Though I was playfully ridiculed by friends because of the bumper stickers and their child-friendly destinations; I was already a teenager that first summer; I didn't mind piling in the car and just going...anywhere. The freedom of the car was incredible. No longer were we stuck in a hot apartment in a hot city; we could just take off and make a left or a right as we saw fit. There were countless choruses of "The Bear Went Over The Mountain" sung by the family as we drove along and we didn't seem to mind that it took a long time to get there. Dad, you see, was a really bad navigator. He often ditched the maps and would bark out turns at the very last second and Mom would take them seemingly on two wheels! That is, after cussing him a bit. 

Yeah... to see what's around that corner or over that hill has inspired much of my traveling. Janet now calls it "Greg's Way," but I learned from my Mom.

Happy Birthday Mom.  

BTW My Mom was very pretty and it's not just me saying this. She was voted the Best Looking Girl of Harrison High School's class of 1949. 

I look like my Dad....... 

go fly a kite!

BLOSSOM KITE FESTIVAL
This annual kite festival was held on the grounds of the Washington Monument today. This popular event lures people from all over the country and the world. A couple on the Metro down to the Smithsonian Station said they had driven over an hour just to attend the festival.

Part of the Cherry Blossom Festival that runs from March 17 to April 20th this free event is a beautiful sight. Kites fly everywhere as the Monument, ringed by American flags, serves as a background. Families and professionals come to fly. Some soared, others flopped on the ground, but when the winds picked up mid afternoon countless kites floated in the sky. For those rookies there was a tent to build your own kite or kite tail, or buy one decorated with D.C. images. There was even a kite hospital tent!

There was a demonstration of aerial acrobatics where the kites flitted along to music and a first time display of kites through the decades with the narrator filling us in on the types of kites popular throughout the years. One such kite from the 70's had a 40 foot tail. Even without flying our own kite it was fun event to attend.

Here's a link to the rest of the events for this year's Cherry Blossom Festival in Washington D.C.
2016 CHERRY BLOSSOM FESTIVAL

PILLOW FIGHT

On Saturday April 2nd is the 7th annual WORLDWIDE PILLOW FIGHT DAY. Not sure why people do it, but I first witnessed it In Union Square, New York City. A huge crowd went at it with pillows that day, laughing and filling the air with feathers! It was a hoot to watch. 

Well tomorrow part of this global flash mob will be held on the National Mall in Washington, D.C., although they are asking participants not to use down pillows because the make too much of a mess. Your favorite traveling duo is down in D.C. for a quick weekend trip to celebrate our 10th anniversary of being together, and to visit my lovely daughter. We're sure to make it... it is free.

This bit of whimsy in a world of strife is worth the effort to see in order to evoke the inner child. 

 INTERNATIONAL PILLOW FIGHT DAY

WASHINGTON D.C. PILLOW FIGHT 

KEEP AUSTIN WEIRD©

Austin Texas

Our planned long weekend to visit Texas finally began with a 5 am Friday plane ride out of Philadelphia and finally arriving in the weirdest place in America later that morning. In a “RED” state, Austin is a “BLUE” dot; this factoid shared with us by our Uber driver who picked us up at the airport. Tired from the logistics of the flight we squinted into the bright Texas air looking for the telltale stamp of weird, but the approach to the Texas capital was all highway ribbons and fast food enterprises.

It was not until we reached our South Congress destination to meet Janet’s daughter did we see the graffiti, the food-trucks and bars that make up the landscape of Austin that  gives her a unique place in the Texas sunshine. Though the majestic capital presides over Austin the city is not the Texas you may expect.

The city certainly has its share of “artistic” types; all seemingly tattooed and culling a gritty look of slap dash attire, stressed hair styles and magnificently man-scaped beards and moustaches; with everyone striving to be, well, weird. Perhaps I’m too conservative in my approach, but the entire city seemed to go out of its way to be strange? Indeed, the city and citizens revel in being different and the patented slogan “Keep Austin Weird” is everywhere. Being weird is not just a lifestyle and attitude in Austin; it is a commodity. This copyrighted phrase is emblazoned on everything, from t-shirts to shot-glasses, and the weirdness has a theme park quality.

Just wondering…. Are you weird if you are aware that you are weird? Indeed many old-timers bemoan the “institutionalization” of Austin weirdness. Some question whether you are, or can be, weird enough.

KEEP AUSTIN WEIRD 

MAS CERVEZA

Thankfully one can ignore the whys and wherefores of weird and just go out and have fun. Austin does bulge with watering holes and mouth-watering food-trucks, restaurants, art and music.  I first happened upon Austin while driving through Texas to research my second novel, “The Music Made Me Cry” and waded through the lively Pecan Street Festival which inspired a turning point in the book for me. I remember the place was packed and music blared from several different stages.

CRAFT PRIDE AUSTIN on RAINEY

Here is the now corporate sponsored web-site for the Pecan Street Festival:

PECAN STREET FESTIVAL 

The South By Southwest Festival (SXSW) will be held mid-March and features not just music but film and gaming, although it is considered the largest music festival in the world. Two thousand musical acts were featured two years ago.

SXSW FESTIVAL SCHEDULE 

But the music scene isn’t regulated to just the festivals, and daily music venues all throughout the greater Austin area throb with activity regardless of the calendar. The Pecan Street entertainment stretch isn’t the only center of music though, as there are bars with stages all along South Congress, Lamar and Rainey Streets. Of course any list I attempt here will give short shrift to the enormity and scope of Austin’s venues, so here’s a great website to plan your pub crawl next time you’re in town.

AUSTIN MUSIC VENUES 

In our very short time in Austin we were able to get to a couple of places along Pecan Street, but personally I liked the Rainey Street Historic District. Rainey Street is just a short walk from the Central Business District and features a collection of older bungalows that have been renovated and turned into bars with great backyards, porches and stages. We were lured to Rainey Street our last afternoon in Austin at the prospect of carousing at Bangers. Not only does Bangers offer over 100 beers on tap, a huge stage and fantastic beer garden, but they also make their own sausage! Sadly when we got there they were closing to prep for a private event. Disappointed, we had to drown our sorrows at other places along Rainey, first at Blackheart, a whisky bar, and then later at Craft Pride.  

 BANGERS BEER GARDEN

BLACKHEART WHISKY BAR

CRAFT PRIDE AUSTIN 

HOW IT WORKS

Of course, there’s food in Austin to go with the carousing and despite the hipster outlook on life, the portions are all Texas-sized. Sadly we didn’t get to sample the food at Bangers, but we did eat some impressive BBQ at Terry Black’s on Barton Springs Road.

Instructions

Texas BBQ in Texas is an entirely different experience than anywhere else. The animal involved is usually different too. The BBQ of Eastern North Carolina is chopped pig and served with a vinegary sauce. In Texas it’s mostly cow, and it comes chopped, beef ribs and brisket. You can also get turkey and pork ribs, but why?

There’s no table service at any Texas BBQ joint I’ve been to, and Terry Black’s does not deviate. You go cafeteria style along a railing, picking out your sides and drinks before ending up at the meat counter where they cut as much as you want and then you find a seat. Bigger eyes than stomachs usually prevail here, so mind your sides and meats!

Warm mid-February weather in Austin allowed us to sit outside to savor our food.

When leaving we poked around out back to gawk at their smokers. The guy happily pointed out the wonderful delicacies slowly cooking!

Now, in researching this article I couldn’t find Terry Black’s BBQ on any Austin top BBQ list, but it must be good, because we saw the actor Luke Wilson in the queue for his ‘que.  

TERRY BLACK'S BBQ, AUSTIN 

BEST AUSTIN BBQ?

ANOTHER AUSTIN BBQ LISTING 

Another place we hit was Iron Works which is within walking distance of the convention center on Red River Street. At first glance Iron Works looks like a foundry of sorts, but we got our BBQ and sat outdoors at tables overlooking the Waller Creek. It was a quiet setting despite being on the very edge of downtown. It may not be considered the best BBQ in Austin, but there was certainly no 90 minute wait for a table.

IRON WORKS BBQ AUSTIN

PRIMO

There’s something like 1,000 food-trucks in Austin, offering everything from cupcakes to breakfast tacos. Some are stand alone, some are clustered in a food-truck trailer parks. Here’s a website for the top 17 best food-trucks to visit. We ate breakfast tacos from Primo’s on First Street. You can visit Primo’s FB page here:

 PRIMO'S FB PAGE

ESSENTIAL FOOD-TRUCKS IN AUSTIN

FOOD-TRUCKS IN AUSTIN 

VEGETARIANS IN TEXAS?

Yes there are these types of people in Austin. I can’t vouch for the rest of the Lone Star State, but Austin definitely has their share of vegetarian delights.

One place we went to was the Bouldin Creek Café. There was a bit of a wait, but the brunch was decent and they served great coffee. They were a bit expensive.

BOULDIN CREEK CAFE 

The Magnolia Café is equally popular with locals and tourists alike. Cheaper and consequently very busy, Janet and I both ordered the Eggscape. It features a mini-mountain of home-fries and sausage topped with eggs for just $6.95.

MAGNOLIA CAFE AUSTIN

GOING BATTY

You would think that with all this drinking and eating Austonians or Aussies (?) Austinites, would be fat, but there are a lot of activities in town. The Lady Bird Lake Hike and Bike Trail, started by THAT Lady Bird Johnson of LBJ fame, follows the Colorado River and is very popular with runners.

Bicycling is also very popular and promoted by the city not only as a form of recreation but as a mode of transportation. Here is a map of the city for bikes.
BIKE MAP AUSTIN 

Paddleboarding on the Colorado may seem odd, especially in February, but we saw plenty of people out on the river in this fashion. Here’s a place to rent from:
PADDLEBOARDING ON THE COLORADO

Swimming at the Barton Springs is an option on a warm day. Clothing optional though family friendly, the water is fed from a spring that keeps the water around 70 degrees. It’s a place for picnic and a dip as well as a ribald drum circle.

BARTON SPRINGS AUSTIN TX 

The largest urban bat colony in the United States lives under a bridge in downtown Austin. At sunset bats emerge to feed and at high season there’s over a million of these critters flapping about. Here’s a guide to where to go for the best sights. You can also take a bat boat if so inclined.
GUIDE TO BAT SEASON IN AUSTIN

Yeah, Austin may be weird, but there’s a lot to do and see there. Young, vibrant, weird, and well fed Austin is quite a destination.

AUSTIN WEIRD