THE BACKBONE OF ENGLAND

The Pennines

Team VFH was off recently for a three day trip to the walled city of York as part of our family visit to England. We started our English adventure in the little town of Nantwich where we had greeted 2016 in the town square to the chimes of the medieval church St. Mary’s. We then spent a day in the even smaller town of Newton-le-Willows where the kids live.

The day before we left for York, Tuesday, was a day of chores like doctor appointments and prescription refills with a stop in for a drink at a chain pub called J.D. Wetherspoon. The local name for this pub is the Nine Arches, named for the nearby Sankey Railway viaduct and located in a former pet store that was once a Methodist church.

 

The Sankey Railway Viaduct

Known for converting old buildings into unconventional pubs, the chain is known for a great beer list and cheap prices for food and beer. There are nearly 1,000 of them throughout the UK. I bought a round of drinks, including a Chimay Blue and a child’s portion meal for Patrick for under £14.

WETHERSPOONS 

“Oh the Places you’ll go…” – Dr. Seuss

Given the opportunity to make a left or a right on our travels to York, I might never have reached the 2,000 year old walled city. Thankfully the tiny Vauxhall Astra was brimming and the 18 month old Patrick demanded we travel the 90 miles between the cities as efficiently as possible. I had to be satisfied with the spacious views of the Pennines the M62 afforded us.  

 

The Pennine Way

Colin had mentioned the Pennines to me on our drive through the midlands the other day, but I didn’t quite understand the beauty that awaited me. Called the “Backbone of England” this mountain range runs north / south from the northern midlands to the Cheviot Hills that border with Scotland. Although the highest peaks are less than 3,000 feet, the Pennines are considered some of the most scenic areas of England.

As we barreled through the area it looked like raw untouched land, but there is a very well used trail called the Pennine Way that runs 270 miles from the Peak District in the northern midlands, past Hadrian ’s Wall, the Cheviot Hills and ending just inside the border with Scotland. It is estimated 250,000 day hikers and over 10,000 long hikers enjoy the Pennine Way yearly. The trail is accessible at several points and also serviced by mass transit and it passes through several small towns.

Though I oohed and pointed Adam would not stop the car and the Pennines will have to patiently wait for another visit from Team VFH. If you have the time and the inclination to hike all or part of the trail here is a great place to get valuable information.

PENNINE WAY PARTICULARS

ROAD TRIP

MY KINGDOM FOR A HORSE
“Greg’s Way” was in all its glory the other day. I went on a business trip with Colin through the Midlands of England.  My host for this trip and fellow Granddad is retired from British Rail and had taken this job making deliveries for a company... just to get out of the house. It was my chance to see a part of England I had never seen, and when asked if I was interested, I jumped at the chance. 

Colin said the trip was nothing special, but armed with a sandwich and a bottle of water, I was ready to pounce on a previously unseen world with the abandon of a reckless explorer. The world, if the Midlands of England could be so construed, was revealed to me and as we barreled down the highways and through little town after little town I was pleased to see life lived on the everyday scale. Too often people equate places with the bigger cities: London is England, Paris is France, New York is the United States… but we all know that is not true.

Our 160 mile or so route from Crewe to Leicester led us through several small gritty honest towns. England is still on the Imperial system and lengths and MPHs are measured in miles not kilometers. We made a couple of stops in business parks and met fork lift drivers and somehow beat all the major traffic snarls that usually accompany such trips. We passed countless fields and countless gardens and countless children off on holiday and never once did I close my eyes in fear because I didn’t know where traffic was coming from because Colin was driving.

Because “we” were working we couldn’t just haphazardly make a left or a right when something suited us. Along the way we did pass signs for Bosworth, where Richard III met his end, but of course we could not deviate. We never really got closer than the industrial parks on the outside of Leicester and could not search out where they finally discovered the infamous Richard III buried beneath a parking lot.  We could not stop and explore the National Brewery Museum in Burton Upon Trent even though Colin deviated his route back to Crewe and we PASSED RIGHT BY IT. We could not stop. We were working after all.

NATIONAL BREWERY CENTRE

With my face plastered against the window of the van I was happy to travel about and was left hungry for more. As Granddads we chortled about our progeny and worried about the future and complained about the past’s influences on the present. We cured all the world's ails and were happy that we had the chance to live a life as fortunate as ours. It was a great day to be alive.

Thanks for reading!

love greg

IN THE NIGHT GARDEN

FAMILY HOLIDAY 

Well… Life’s fortunes has spirited me yet again to the lovely English town of Nantwich in Chesire, UK. This is my third time here in this Northwestern tightly knit and friendly town. It is Janet’s fifth visit, but who is counting. Usually this great vast world is so alluring and time so fleeting that returning to some place is difficult to consider, but, when family is involved then the familiar streets and smiling faces that comprise this lovely Nantwich are far are more attractive than the most exotic vista.  

All right…that last bit may be pushing the envelope a bit. Nonetheless, we are here in Nantwich yet again.

THE CROWN HOTEL, NANTWICH

For those who have followed this humble blog you may remember that Nantwich is where Janet’s daughter had her “English” wedding at the Crown hotel, a charming waddle and daub structure on High Street that was REBUILT in 1583 by Queen Elizabeth I after a fire devastated the town. The kids had their “American” wedding at the Kimberton Inn for family members unable to travel to England.

THE CROWN HOTEL, NANTWICH 

Two of the attractions of this little town, where everyone knows everyone and a person can easily walk to any point in town, include the Nantwich museum, which not only explains the lengthy history of the salt mining industry of Nantwich, and how the Romans used the salt from the town for preserving and flavoring food, but also the extensive tanning industry that thrived here. Dabbing is part of the tanning process and to be a Dabber is to call Nantwich home.

WHAT IS A DABBER AND OTHER NANTWICH CURIOSITIES  

ST. MARY'S CHURCH, NANTWICH

The second attraction is St. Mary’s Church in the town center square. It dates from the 14^th Century and is considered one of the finest medieval churches in all of England. It is at this main square where Team VFH greeted 2016 in our previous visit to Nantwich, emerging from the Nantwich club that night in a spirited cha cha line as we listened to the father and son campanologist team ply their trade to chime in the new year.

Yes, Nantwich is more than a place to see things. It is the place where we settle into our couches to watch the 2016 World Match Play Darts Finals and discuss strategy and to make fun of Phil Taylor.

PHIL THE POWER

PHIL THE POWER TAYLOR

Nantwich is where Jake, the wonder dog, moans when it’s tea time and no one’s given him his food. 

Nantwich is place where you have a choice of fine pubs to visit, like The Rifleman, The Vine and The Black Lion for a pint or two or three. 

THE BLACK LION

But, most importantly, Nantwich is now a second home for Team VFH. It is the place where we coo over and coddle the little grandson who is so very precious to everyone. Of course he’s adorable, and we all make fools of ourselves in the quest to entertain him.. He’s nearly 18 months now and toddling about and saying words and we delight in watching the children's program IN THE NIGHT GARDEN, as he settles in for bed, content in knowing that life does go wonderfully on. 

THE RIFLEMAN, NANTWICH

I truly wouldn’t want to be anywhere else in this world.

USS Anathema

A Boatload of Money

Contrary to popular belief Vacations From Home IS willing to part with our hard earned moola. Yes, we can spend like drunken sailors BUT we always have one foot in reality and a firm grasp of our coffers. As long as our dearly departed buckaroos are for a good cause or for a great value we will spend, but without the hangover of our naval brethren. Spending money is a sobering endeavor and two weekends ago was a glorious example of our willingness to have a good time.

And, spend we did! Team VFH’s Rear Admiral Lower Half, Janet, threw me a rather extensive surprise party for my impending birthday. (Not that I want to be reminded of approaching old age.) Nonetheless a few Saturdays ago I was greeted by a bevy of friends, all wearing Aloha shirts on the Cruise Annapolis catamaran Daydream Believer. They weren’t playing the Monkees song though, but Frank Sinatra and each hoisted Champagne flutes in my honor. I was handed an especially dreadful (yeah!) Aloha shirt as a gift and we set sail for an 8 hour party on the Chesapeake Bay.

 UGLY ASS ALOHA SHIRTS

I was quite surprised, You see, we had traveled to Annapolis for the weekend for a casual get together with our friends and perhaps a small boating excursion. One of our friends keeps a motor boat in Edgewater, but it never occurred to me that all of us would not fit on her comparatively modest craft at the same time. So, when Janet drove me to the dock; we had lagged behind the others; I was shocked and giddy with this display of love and affection from my love and friends.

If I could I would promote Janet to Vice Admiral, although her lower half is rather enticing.

A HOLE IN THE WATER

Owning a boat is quite expensive. It’s nice to have friends who don’t mind bearing the expense, but renting a boat for the day with a seasoned captain is well worth the cost. A couple of our party own boats and delighted in helping out without the normal responsibility of piloting a craft.  

I delighted in drinking champagne at first and then Patron infused Corona beer. Just add lime and fill the empty part of the bottle with tequila………………………. After drinking a number of these many of us were sprawled out on the netting between the two hulls of the catamaran. At some point I was dared to show my aging bod and leapt naked into the bay. It was a great day, although if queried, my friends would regret egging me into skinny dipping,

It was not a cheap date, but greatly appreciated! Thank you Rear Admiral Lower Half, Janet!

Check out Cruise Annapolis’ fleet.

CRUISE ANNAPOLIS

CASTING A WIDE NET

SERENDIPITY AND CHANCE

The full majestic glorious attractive power of Team VFH was on display this past Fourth of July weekend as it was just one invite after another to BBQs and pools and dinner engagements! Avert your eyes if you must, but Vacations From Home was everywhere and everyone wanted to be near us. Open invitations, open pools and open refrigerators were ours for the choosing as we flitted from place to place in a sort of pseudo-intellectual reenactment of our country’s independence as we had the inalienable right of life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness! 

Dear faithful readers….you should be SO lucky.

How you may ask? How do we get invited to pool parties on the Main Line, that ultra-rich bastion of Philadelphian old money? Could it be because of the vivacious charms of Janet and my devilish good looks, in a nerdy sort of way, that people want to stick to us like Velcro, or could it really be good planning as we cast a wide net to ensnare all opportunities?  Perhaps it was all luck after all and while we were prepared to idle the days away in Janet’s home grown jungle of a back deck, content, the phone chimed to life with destinations for your humble cheapskates.

Out of respect to our hosts who may want to remain anonymous, lest their good luck at getting Team VFH to visit them offends their envious neighbors and friends, I shall not go into details here. Plus, your illustrious and humble team of entrepreneurial party animals, would not want to be so gauche as to announce their antics, unless of course it was somebody like Gisele Bundchen or Christie Brinkley who extended the invite and then that would be really really cool to “mention” here.

Our advice to you dear reader is this: One must prepare for any and all scenarios when the weekend approaches and never ever simply dismiss out of hand an invite and besides you can sleep in on Monday.

.  

Get to work. The next weekend is rapidly nearing. 

ESP

Eastern State Penitentiary

A Christmas gift from Janet’s daughter and son-in-law had Team VFH going to prison recently, and we liked it. In Philadelphia’s now gentrified Fairmount section, Eastern State Penitentiary operated as a prison from 1829 to 1971. After closing it was left in a derelict and moldering state until it was saved from destruction and use as a commercial space and tours began in the late 80’s. Eastern State Penitentiary is now a National Historical Landmark.

the Eye of God at ESP

THE PENNSYLVANIA WAY

When it opened ESP was the most expensive building in the country, with running water and a flush toilet in every cell. It was also the first institution that sought to rehabilitate inmates by placing them in separate cells and severely limiting their contact with others. This revolutionary idea of solitary confinement was meant to induce regret and penitence in the inmates for their crimes and not simply be a punishment. Each cell was lighted by the “Eye of God”, a portal that meant to inspire reverence. Indeed there is a church-like feel throughout the prison and while going on the self-guided audio tour people spoke quietly if at all. It is a scary ominous place and given the rapidly upcoming neighborhood of Fairmount, this neo-gothic edifice looms with a menacing starkness. A chill ran through me as I entered this feral place, so different from the world beyond the walls!  

The “Pennsylvania System” was adopted by hundreds of prisons around the world.

THAT’S WHERE THE MONEY IS

Subject to availability, tickets cost $14 for adults and it includes a self-guided audio tour narrated by Steven Buscemi. There are also guides throughout the prison to answer questions. One can stroll through most of the prison but several areas are cordoned off and have been left in their derelict and crumbling state.

Among the “highlights” of visiting the prison is the cell of Al Capone and the tunnel that was dug under the wall for an escape involving, among others, the bank robber Willie Sutton. Once Sutton was asked why he robbed banks and he said “that’s where the money is.”

VISITING EASTERN STATE PENITENTIARY

LET THEM EAT TASTYCAKES

People have reported seeing ghosts at ESP and the Halloween season is a very popular time to visit the grounds. Called, “Terror Behind the Walls,” it turns ESP into one very large haunted mansion. Prices are more expensive for the right to have the bejesus scared out of you. …. No thanks….

On July 16^th, Bastille Day will be celebrated at the prison. The storming of the Bastille as well as the entire French Revolution will be re-enacted with tongue-in-cheek humor in an hour long presentation culminating with Marie Antoinette throwing Tastycakes down onto the gathered hordes!

BASTILLE DAY AT ESP 

LET THEM DRINK BEER

Regular readers of this column know that Philadelphia is a vast mecca for beer, and if thirsty after your visit there are several places to drink. Here are a few:

The Belgian Café.  Just a block away from the prison on 21^ST and Green offering a great selection of Belgian beer

THE BELGIAN CAFE WEBSITE

Rembrandt’s. Featuring an ornate wooden bar on 23^rd Street

REMBRANDT'S WEBSITE

The Fairmount section of the city is becoming a beautiful area again. Where you go to enjoy your adult libation really depends on how far you want to walk, there are so many to choose to visit. Street parking is relatively easy to find, although there is a pay lot across the street from ESP.

YOU LIGHT UP MY LIFE

"I want to get you on a slow boat to China...."

So, sometimes Team VFH works independently to come up with solutions to an approaching weekend. Ideas about what to do or where to go are bounced around between us, but usually Janet wins. I joke here, because it’s never considered a “win”, but a great idea. Janet is the true brains behind this intrepid traveling duo. She loves doing the research and when she plans the day/trip she has every detail figured out from what we are doing, where we are drinking and eating and even where we are to park.

Now, at times I may feel strongly about something else and she kindly allows me to counter with different opinions, but only for a while. When she tires of my machinations and rolls that evil eye at me I have learned to stop and say “yes Dear,” if only out of self-preservation.

Hmmm… “yes Dear,” is the phrase every man needs to remember and utter often for a myriad of reasons.

Well the “yes dear” meter was peaking this past weekend as Janet decided on something called the Philadelphia Chinese Lantern Festival.  Located at Franklin Square, a small park at the very foot of the Ben Franklin Bridge, the festival runs through June 12^th. This is the final weekend. The hours are 6 pm to 10 pm and until 11 pm on the weekends. The 8 acre park is transformed nightly into a different world of colorfully lighted lanterns and displays. There are also artisans, food, a beer garden lighted by an incredible 300 foot fire breathing dragon and a stage featuring live entertainment like balancing acts and music. At first I thought it would be a hokey time, I normally would not consider attending something like this, but it was a very pleasing evening. We went Saturday night and though the festival was crowded we never felt rushed or crammed. We were able to linger over displays and stroll along leisurely.. The price is $17 for adults and $12 for kids 17 and under. Janet took several pictures at this family friendly event.   

Buy your tickets here: CHINESE LANTERN FESTIVAL

 

DRAGON BEER GARDEN

PEKING DUCK

The lines for food were very long on the festival grounds, so I would recommend that you eat before you enter. Philadelphia’s Chinatown is just a few blocks away. We ate at Sang Kee Peking Duck House on the corner of 9^th and Winter. The festival entrance is on 6^th and Race. We had the Peking Duck meal for two at $43 and each a “jar” of warm sake at $7 each. The Peking duck skin was delightfully crispy and the meat tender. Janet doesn't normally eat Chinese food, but Sang Kee is an exception. Janet found this place! Cash only. Sang Kee is very popular. Prepare to wait.  SANG KEE PEKING DUCK

PARKING

It turns out that after 5pm  the cost to park at the National Constitution center drops to just $5. The entrance is on the 5^th Street or the N Independence Mall side. As pedestrians you emerge on 6^th Street and just a block away from the festival. Park at 5 and either spend your time walking around the Independence Mall or get something to eat before you head into the festival…. And make sure you thank Janet for ALL this information. Tell her "yes Dear" for me!