Tuesday, September 26, 2017

IT’S ALL ABOUT THE BEER!

OKTOBERFESTS
Football season is in full swing; unless you’re the NY Football Giants and you’ve decided not to start playing; but autumn IS here and what that means there are a number of very very good reasons to drink beer. It's the time of Oktoberfests folks and here in southeastern Pennsylvania there are enough festivals dedicated to liquid gold there is no reason to book airline tickets to Munich Germany where the whole silly Bavarian bacchanalian celebration began nearly 200  years ago.


Here is a website about the original oom-pah party which began as a wedding celebration to a King Ludwig in 1810. This year's Oktoberbest in Munich began on September 16 and will go until October 3rd.
Want to see what you’re missing in Munich? Here’s a link to a webcam:

NO BUDS FOR YOU
According to tradition only original Munich beer is sold at the beer tents and each maintain strict adherence to the "Reinheitsgebot", the Bavarian Purity Requirements for beer.  There are six breweries represented: Augustiner (a personal favorite), Hacker Pschorr, Hofbrau, Lowenbraur, Paulaner and Spaten. Not an IPA in the bunch. 

Here's a BBC article about the Reinheitsgebot:

HOME IS WHERE THE BEER IS
Can’t make it to Munich? I didn't think so and neither can Team VFH and right about now you're thinking there's too much effort going on with beer between logistics and what can be drunk. But, here is a small collection of festivals dedicated to liquid bread in the Philadelphia area that is all about having some beers with friends:

Autumn is a very popular time for beer and doubly so in this area that really likes its beer. It seems there's an Oktoberfest everywhere you look, even the Philadelphia Zoo had its own version of an Oktoberfest; alas too late for this year.

RIDE SALLY RIDE
Heck, celebrations are literally down the street from us in Collegeville. The local Appalachian Brewing Company establishment (a small chain) is hosting their yearly Oktoberfest Ride for bicyclers on October 22nd. Though the Reinheitsgebot will NOT be represented here, you can literally hold your breath and walk from our place to APC. The challenging course which begins and ends at the brewery covers approximately 62 miles.

STOUDTS
A personal Oktoberfest favorite of mine is the month long celebration at Stoudts in Adamstown near Reading. I have gone a couple of times over the years. There's a large dance hall and music to go with the lederhosen and great beers. The highlight of the day is the parade of the roasted pig and the tasty beast leads a cha cha line through the place as the oom-pah band plays... I know I know there might be TOO much excitement. But heck, it's better than watching the Giants lose another game. Ein PROST!


Friday, September 22, 2017

KISSES THROUGH THE MILKY WAY

CAPTAIN UPDATE                                   
Janet is on her two week trip white water rafting trip through the Grand Canyon. For a myriad of ridiculous reasons your favorite Team VFH clerk did not accompany the captain on this trip of a lifetime. Ain't that a kick in the head.

She is with the adventure group OARS and according to their information she will be traveling 250+ miles from Lees Ferry to Lake Mead and going over 47 rapids rated 5 or above on the Grand Canyon scale of 1 to 10. She’ll be hiking and eating well and having the time of her life. There’s no cell phone service and the OARS people could not even give me a timetable as to where she’ll be at any time during the trip.
postcard from Janet

PHANTOM RANCH
But, post cards are available at the Phantom Ranch, the only lodging below the Canyon rim. Accessible only by the river, hiking over 7 miles down into the canyon or traveling by mule, the Phantom Ranch is an oasis of wood or stone cabins first constructed in the 1920s by the federal government and space is extremely limited. Currently reservations are up to 13 months in advance. In 2019 there will be a lottery system instituted.
The Phantom Ranch Canteen

DINNER RESERVATIONS AT THE PHANTOM RANCH

A canteen at the Phantom Ranch makes breakfast and dinners, for lodgers, hikers and rafters and reservations are required here with special seating times for both meals. Evidently you can also buy beer here and I received a wonderful postcard from Janet yesterday telling me this. Mail is hauled up to the rim by mules. She’s enjoying herself and says she’s sending me kisses nightly through the Milky Way. I’ve never seen the Milky Way. I am missing so much. Ain’t that a kick in the head?
The Milky Way over the Grand Canyon


Saturday, September 9, 2017

EMBRYONIC JOURNEY

RAFTING IN THE GRAND CANYON
The far more adventurous half of your favorite traveling duo is doing it again. The true captain of Team VFH is off on a two week, 200+ mile white water rafting adventure down the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon. Ever since I first laid eyes on her Match.com profile picture where she was holding a fish she caught in Alaska sweetly smiling Janet has regaled me with tales of her hikes up Colorado mountain tops and how she would wrestle alligators and grizzly bears at the same time.
I’m no couch potato. I’ve run 9 marathons. I have hiked overnights on trails on my own and have taken week long canoe trips down the Delaware. But, the operative words here are “canoe” and “Delaware”.
                       
A number of years ago we tried our hands at white water rafting. We took a day trip on the Ohiopyle River while camping in Western Pennsylvania. I was assigned “captain” of the raft and Janet and I were paired with three teenaged girls who did not paddle. Rafting and canoeing are completely different and the intuitive nature I have with a canoe simply doesn’t work with a raft. Yeah, we tipped over at one point and I was kind of caught under the raft for a bit; it wasn’t fun and I was finished with the whole raft experience. Janet though wanted to go out the next day on a rougher stretch of the river.

That did not happen. But, this trip did. It’s a “bucket list” item for her and it is something she claims she has dreamed of doing for ages, although the first I heard about this was about 18 months ago.

Conversely, my “bucket list” item is to hire a boat and captain to sail us through Croatia’s Dalmation Islands. She thinks this is a great idea too, but first she wants to go on a hut-to-hut hiking adventure in New Zealand. I really just want another glass of wine while admiring a sunset over Hvar and she wants to bathe in the chilly waters of the Colorado and fend off rogue Maori warriors.

Janet's kind of traveling

Do you understand now the title of this article, Embryonic Journey?
This is my kind of traveling

Anyway, I wasn’t very keen on this Colorado River adventure so I begged off it. Janet recently retired and so this was her reward for her long career as a teacher, but this reward is costly and for me quite prohibitive. The trip itself is approximately $6,000, which doesn’t include tips for the guides, airfare or hotels and incidentals before and after the trip, but on an excursion like this the guides do all the work and you just hang on for dear life. So between the experience and the pampering it’s worth the money. It usually takes booking years in advance to get on a trip like this, but Janet was quite fortunate to get a place on this trip when a single opening became available a scant 18 months ago. Two weeks ago, feeling guilty about not sharing this adventure with Janet, I announced I wanted to go on the trip. The people at OARS, the outfitters for this journey, laughed at me.
You know though the more I look at this trip the more I wish I had said yes a long time ago. Janet is going to have a lot of fun. She always seems to do things right. She is the captain after all. I can't wait to fight off those crazy Maoris in NZ.

Saturday, August 19, 2017

THE GRAND OLE OPRY

NASHVILLE SOUNDS
So, the question needs to be asked…. Why in all places in this great America is Nashville the country music capital? And, what the heck is a Grand Ole Opry?
Of course, after my recent trip to the Athens of the South  your intrepid chronicler did some research and just skimming the surface of the history of “country” music has my head spinning with its various forms and sub-genres trying to decide what to write here.

Hopefully I’ll get some of this correct. If I don’t, I guess my dog will run away, my truck will get a flat tire and my cold beer will get warm quickly….

Actually, country music is far more popular than I ever imagined. From what I have read the dulcet tones of warbling cowboys and toe tapping honky-tonk, et al, is enjoyed by over 40% of the population, that listeners are often affluent and homeowners, and there are more evening commuters tuning into country music stations than anything else.
That still doesn’t answer the question, ‘why Nashville?’

As for the Nashville sound, it was a move in the 50's to revive country sales devastated by the rise of rock and roll by using smooth strings and choruses and sophisticated background vocals. As for the Nashville Sounds, they are a AAA team of the Oakland Athletics. 

HILLBILLY MUSIC
Country has its roots in Appalachian folk music, mostly narrative ballads and traditional music brought from Europe mainly by English, Irish and Scottish settlers to the area, as well as African-American blues. Instruments typically played are banjos, fiddles, dulcimers and guitars. Parts of Appalachia are still isolated and poor and inhabitants often stereotyped as uneducated and unrefined, but there is a rich musical heritage from this region.
 
Ryman Auditorium
In the early 1900s there was a movement to collect and preserve these folk songs played by the people of Appalachia where previously the music was unwritten. For generations the music was passed on orally and musically to the next generation, sometimes just within families. When they began to collect this rich legacy the researchers first wrote the notes of the songs and lyrics down and later when the equipment was invented the music was electronically recorded. In the earliest recordings the artists had to travel to New York City or Atlanta, but in the 1920s a producer for the Victor Talking Machine Company set up a recording studio in a State Street building in Bristol, Tennessee. State Street is the border between Virginia and Tennessee in Bristol.  Artists were offered $50 for each side cut and 2 ½ cents for each single sold.  The popularity of the music, called “Hillbilly Music”, which wasn’t a pejorative term but instead used to differentiate the music from gospel and blues, quickly became popular beyond the hills of Appalachia.

Today Bristol Tennessee is considered the Birthplace of Country Music. The actual site of the Bristol recordings in Bristol, Tennessee is now a parking lot but there is a commemorative plaque there, while the Birthplace of Country Music Museum is located a few blocks away in Bristol Virginia.

RED HOT FIDDLE PLAYING
The Grand Ole Opry began as a radio program on WSM 650 in Nashville Tennessee in 1925. It was called Barn Dance then and the first performer introduced was 77 year old Uncle Jimmy Thompson. The show’s producer wanted each segment to end with some “red hot fiddle playing” and the Fruit Jar Drinkers were tasked with that endeavor. The name was changed to the Grand Ole Opry when the announcer quipped one night in 1927 that the classical music that preceded the program had been taken from Grand Opera and what will follow is Grand Ole Opry. He then introduced the Harmonica King, DeFord Bailey. 

The hour long program was a massive hit and the crowds that gathered at the radio station on Seventh and Union soon overwhelmed the studio space, requiring a move (and an admission charge) to several other venues over the years before the Grand Ole Opry settled in the Ryman Auditorium on 4th Street in 1943. The Opry was held there until 1974 when a new home was built 9 miles east of Nashville. From the main stage of the Ryman a circle was cut out and placed on the new building's stage in a nod to the rich history of the Opry. But, when the Opry moved out of town so did the tourists and the once vibrant area of Broadway fell into a crime infested area for decades until entrepreneurs saved the Ryman and bars like Tootsie's Orchid Lounge from the wrecking ball.

Here’s a great list of the history of all the venues of the Grand Ole Opry over the years.
crowd outside Ryman Auditorium
Although the Grand Ole Opry is no longer televised you can still listen to WSM 650 the radio station that started it all online at: WSM 650 ONLINE
Opry stage showing circle 

THE SHOW THAT MADE COUNTRY MUSIC FAMOUS
The Grand Ole Opry is perhaps the most visited attraction in America; at least that was what our tour guide at the place said after we paid our $30 per. There is now a sprawling shopping mall adjacent to the Opry called Opry Mills, but until 1997 that area had a musically themed amusement park called Opryland and between the two destinations 2.5 million would visit annually. No matter how many quips I could make about country music there is no doubt about the popularity.
post office at the Grand Ole Opry
Having been in a lot of venues over my career for me the Grand Ole Opry wasn't that special, but I can understand why enthusiasts would be interested in the back halls and dressing rooms and the machinations of the shows.  

The tour takes you around to the performer’s entrance, where our guides gleefully note there is no valet parking and the musicians need to drive themselves. We are then shown the check in desk where there is a mailbox for performers…yes you can write your favorite member and address it to the Grand Ole Opry and it’ll end up in their mailbox… Our guide on this part of the tour, a little blonde waif, rattled off the corresponding names of shouted out numbers. The check in desk attendant will then assign the performer to a particular dressing room; there are several differently themed dressing rooms. (I was particularly keen on seeing the Minnie Pearl themed room).
 
dressing room at the Grand Ole Opry
Interesting note: None of the dressing rooms have a bathroom, though there are communal ones down the hall. At least they are not outside……………….
There I go again with a quip.


The final stop on this tour was the chance to walk on stage and have your photo taken.  The $25 per pictures were available afterwards, but in keeping with your trusty cheapskates Janet photographed the photo and we now have a lasting memory of what is the most visited tourist destination in America.
on the stage

Membership in the Grand Ole Opry is the highest achievement in country music. Going into the requirements here would be counterproductive, but suffice it to say that two notables are NOT “members” of the Grand Ole Opry. Taylor Swift is “too pop” according to our guide and Hank Williams was “too drunk”. In fact this month is the anniversary of Hank Williams being “fired” by the Grand Ole Opry because he missed too many shows.
Darius Rucker of Hootie and the Blowfish fame is a member.

Had we not been flying out early the next morning we might have considered staying for that night's performance of the Grand Ole Opry.. Surprisingly tickets were still available. 
Taylor Swift at the Grand Ole Opry

Wednesday, August 2, 2017

BEERS OF THE WORLD

WHEN IN ROME
Imagine my delight in finding out that there is a thriving craft beer market in Nashville. On our first night here, when we had dinner in Germantown’s Butchertown Hall, I drank two local beers that seemed unworthy of Tennessee, what with all the whiskey and music. I had a Czann Dunkel Weizen and a Black Abbey Special, a Belgian-style ale that was pretty darn close to the real thing. I am drinking, er, speaking from experience you know. Team VFH traveled to Belgium JUST to drink beer a number of years ago.

When we put in supplies for the week at the Kroegers market on Rosa Park Avenue I purchased a six pack of various local beers like Yazoo and Mill Creek, etc. and all were drinkable. Though we only visited one brewery in our short time in Nashville it was a good one. Black Abbey was a few miles outside of the downtown area of Nashville and in an industrial park. We purchased a reasonably priced flight of 6 beers at their tasting room, with the bartender throwing in an extra because we couldn’t decide on the allotted number.

Personally I think it’s important to sample local things. I would never, for instance, travel to Sydney to drink a Budweiser, or to Edinburgh with all those lovely lovely single malts to drink Jack Daniels and a Corona. I’ve known people who have…



   

Tuesday, August 1, 2017

IT’S A BIG WORLD OUT THERE

Today is my birthday. How fortunate that I’ve lived as long and experienced so much. Still, there are always mountains to clamber over and vistas to make my heart swoon. I like to say God has graced me with a long life to give me an opportunity to finally get it right. I just hope he (or she) doesn't decide to cut bait and run anytime soon.


There is so much out there… and there… and there….It’s a big world someone’s gotta tell you all about it.


Love, laugh and enjoy our time in this Garden of Eden

Monday, July 31, 2017

WHISKEY HOT CHICKEN MARATHON

ALL NEW
On our recent trip to Nashville to visit my daughter we took it very slow and paced ourselves. My daughter had to work one day so we were on our own anyway. It was very hot, with temperatures approaching triple digits and our icy cold newly built apartment was just so wonderful and we found ourselves lingering a bit enjoying the frigid air….although we did overdo it one morning and had to go to a local hospital to be treated for frost bite.

Obviously that’s an exaggeration; we thawed out quickly in the heat.
I actually got a run in at the Centennial Park one morning. I was out there at 7 am and already the day was sweltering, but I managed 4 laps around the course before returning to the ice palace to recover.

But seriously, the brand newness of our apartment and actually all of Nashville is amazing. Our apartment was clean, efficient and very comfortable, but google map the address of our place at 2507 Clifton Avenue and the street picture from March 2016 shows it was still under construction. The satellite picture shows a derelict building. Even my daughter’s apartment complex in Germantown is literally a dirt lot in the satellite view.

All of Nashville is like this. There is new construction everywhere and if it’s not new construction it’s preservation as was our first stop this one day at the Marathon Motor Works. According to our tour bus guide, this building, once a cotton mill and then an automobile factory and located in what was once a very dodgy, rough part of town, is the most popular stop on their “hop on, hop off” tour.

SHOULD MOVE, DON’T
Now, the title of this section of today’s entry is not a comment about my running abilities, but about the automobile company that once flourished in Nashville.  The Marathon automobile was produced in this Athens of the South facility in the early 1900s. After a slow start, with one of the company reports about their car famously stating, “should move, don’t”, the Marathon Motor Company eventually produced a reliable and durable car and enjoyed great popularity and at one point was producing 200 cars a month.  But company mismanagement caused the company to flounder just about the same time as the Ford Model T was gaining popularity with America. Today, only a handful of Marathons still exist and four of them are on display at the old factory showroom for free.


Now on the National Register of Historic Places, the Marathon Motor Works was abandoned and decaying for years, surrounded by weeds and inhabited by drug addicts. But an entrepreneur came in saw the potential and now the building houses stores and artisans and businesses. The hallways are decorated with photographs and industrial tools. Jack Daniels has a store here as well as the popular History Channel show American Pickers. Their store is called Antique Archaeology, and very appropriate for this historical building.

WHISKEY TRAIL
The Marathon Motor Works also houses two distilleries. Our interest was piqued with the Belle Meade Bourbon we had at Husk the night before  and we wanted to sample more Tennessee spirits. Our waiter from Husk was aglow that Belle Meade was distilled and aged just down the road, but our first adult libation was at the self-proclaimed “hand crafted small batch ultra-premium booze for badasses”, Corsair Distillery.

There is an actual official Whiskey Trail with approximately 30 distilleries across the state ranging from small, boutique-style distilleries to giants like Jack Daniels. The Tennessee Whiskey Trail website gives a history of the spirit before during and after prohibition, offers an itinerary if you choose to be foolishly brave enough to drive, or gives a listing of tour companies that will take you around for tastings. Tennessee is broken up into west, mid and east sections.

Corsair Distillery is at the far end of the Marathon Motor Works building where the Yazoo brewery, a popular and ubiquitous brew in Nashville, once had their operation. Corsair also brews beer, but we avoided the hemp concoctions and such and bought a flight of three types of gins they produced in their little bar area. Janet had recently gone to a gin tasting event in England and was keen on this idea. I wasn’t particularly fond of their offerings though Janet liked them, but when she wanted to move onto a flight of their whiskeys I thought it would be better to pace ourselves…. It was just 11:30 after all. Thankfully their distillery tour wasn’t until much later in the afternoon, so we paid our 8 dollars and moved on.

ALL BOURBONS ARE WHISKIES
We walked through the warren of corridors and peaked into a couple of shops, but then eventually left the cool confines of the Marathon Motor Works to walk the half block to Nelson’s Green Brier Distillery.

The history of the company is lengthy and incredible. The short version has them producing a lot of high quality whiskey in the 1800s. In 1908 Tennessee enacted its own prohibition, ahead of the United States and whiskey distilling stopped and the family swept it under a rug to forget the whole process. In 2011 two great-whatever-grandsons discovered, via a historical roadside sign, that here stood a distillery that bore their family name and upon further research they were able to find the original recipes of this high quality whiskey and have since restarted the distillery.

You have to go through a lot of jaw dropping history to drink the whiskey at Nelson's Green Brier Distillery, but it is well worth the $10. The guide explained the mixture of the sour mash had to contain at least 51% corn according to Tennessee whiskey regulations and he explained the charcoal filtration and aging process they used for the whiskey and the bourbon they produce. I still can’t give you a definitive answer to what’s the difference between the two types of liquor although they are evidently very similar. I believe it has something to do with aging and the type of barrel used….I think.
I know that last bit will inflame purists and I’ll be labeled a mook, etc. I say. ‘whatever’, the tour ended with four generous pours of their whiskey and bourbon. I wanted to stay and research the matter further, but we were ready to get something to eat.


TWO WHISKEYS TWO BOURBONS ONE HOT CHICKEN
Unlike Champagne that can’t be called champagne unless it’s made in France, having a myriad number of names like Cava or Asti Spumante when produced elsewhere, bourbon, named for a Bourbon County in Kentucky can still be made anywhere, as long the rules are followed. But, Nashville Hot Chicken is a local delicacy and very popular with locals and tourists The popularity of Nashville-style Hot Chicken is growing beyond the city limits though and KFC recently rolled out their version of Hot Chicken.

It basically is fried chicken but it’s the heat and the presentation that make it so unique. At the midtown Hattie B’s where we ate they bread the chicken and then dip it in a melted spice blend, fry it and serve it on a slice of white bread with some pickles.Hattie B’s heat goes from Southern (no heat) to Shut the Cluck Up!  There are several restaurants in town that offer Nashville-style hot chicken and all are represented at the Hot Chicken Festival held around Independence Day in Nashville's East Park. There’s a fire truck parade before this free event.
We had heard horror stories about extreme waits to get into a restaurant like Hattie B's but ours lasted just 15 minutes. Employees of the restaurant kept coming out to fill a water cooler with ice and resupply drinking cups for those brave patrons ready to stand in the heat. The food was well worth the wait. We ordered small white plates and with the two sides it was more than enough food. We had mild and medium versions of the heat and waddled back to our car, our whiskey hot chicken marathon was finished! The igloo awaited our return.